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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • world_travelerworld_traveler Member Posts: 153
    My 2003 Le does that too.

    I tought it was strange. Maybe there is a good explanation..

    Anyone ?
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    What the last two posts describe I think is perfectly normal behavior. Mine has always done that "up and down" before sliding back to open or forward to close; same with those on the test lot. It seems consistent with the manual and doesn't cause any inconvenience. Basically, I think it is a non-issue and just how it operates on the sun roof track.

    What IS strange, however, is the temporary problem I had where the one-touch open and the tilt buttons were "switched." I never experienced it until they disconnected the battery to replace the gas tank (see description in post #656 above). In my post above, I describe how the buttons temporarily kind of "reversed functions." It only happened that once and has not happened again. A friend of mine who test drove one of these kinda' remembers this also happening to him on the dealer lot back in October, but not sure. Hopefully, I will get some sort of answer from Nissan on this in connection with my service engine soon light problems.

    Have any of you with 01s or 02s experienced this temporary reversing of the buttons? Maybe after a battery disconnection?

    P.S. Was going to update all on status of Lemon Law stuff, but out of time; basically, turning lemons into lemonade . . . and you Nissan owners will be pleased to hear of my treatment by Nissan Consumer Affairs and Nissan Arbitration . . . at least so far. :> Very encouraging. [I can tell you though, if I did not know the issues, do the research, written the letters with pages of attachments documenting everything, etc., etc. then I do wonder if everyone would be where I am. But, then again, it pays to do your homework and then let the facts and law speak for themselves.] I will update shortly.

    For now, anyone following lemon law issues and wondering whether you need to be an attorney to tackle them (you don't!) should send a blank E-mail to kkulig@aol.com with the words "Lemon Law Document Request" in the subject line. You will receive a terrific document in a reply E-mail from an Edmunds user who shows you all the ropes, so to speak. Hats off to Edmunds, as I found this info in a very old post somewhere here on the Town Hall!
  • twelsh140twelsh140 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2003 Pathfinder LE which takes for ever to cool. Local dealer has been great since I have purchased 3 pathfinders to date. The gas and all sensors are normal. Dealer has indicated its the number one problem with the new nissans any suggestions.

    2. As for poor window performance when cold my dealer replaced the window gaskets they worked perfect.
  • acmeacme Member Posts: 1
    Re: to msg 561
    According to Discount tire Co. , Nissan doesn't make the hub ring that fit the rim of 2001 SE , therefore it difficult to balance the wheel even if doing road force balance on Hunter 9700 machine.
    Is it true, any one here having luck getting the shimmy and vibration issue resolve ?
  • 1994pathfinder1994pathfinder Member Posts: 2
    I am getting about 14 miles to the gallon on my 1995 Pathfinder XE 2 wheel drive. I drive mostly in the city. It is supposed to get around 15. My tires are inflated to about 36 PSI. I know that is a little hight. Could that be contributing to the poor mileage? Does anyone know how I can improve my gas mileage?
  • sonardudesonardude Member Posts: 12
    I've had my 01 PF for 2 1/2 yrs and only use the CD player on trips. Tried to load the first CD and didn't get the green lights and subsequently got an "Err2" message. When I got home, I pulled the fuse to see if it would reset and that didn't help. Anyway, the dealer said that the changer has to be sent to Clarion at a cost of $300-$350. The PF has 38K miles on it, so Nissan won't cover it (like the mileage has anything to do with this problem). Anyone have any experience or suggestions with this?
  • rhymerguyrhymerguy Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2003 Nissan Pathfinder LE(floor demo) on July 2. It had about 6000 miles on it. About five min after I drove it out of the lot, the Service Engine Soon light came on and I brought it back to the dealer twice on July 3. They ran the diagnostic check and got a small emission leak (?) code which they attributed to the gas cap not being securely fastened when they detailed the car for me. The reset the indicator, I took the car out and 5 minutes later the light came on again.

    I turned right around and went back to the dealership and after meeting with the service manager and sales manager, will be dropping my car off on Monday July 7 for them to run a more thorough emissions diagnostic. They believe that there may be a pinhole sized leak somewhere and will be performing some sort of smoke test (?). I am hopeful that they will be able to correct the problem.

    I have been following mjohnr99's posts regarding his woes and appreciate the information regarding the lemon law statute. Obviously, I would prefer for them to offer to exchange the vehicle, but since it was a floor model, I believe this is unlikely.

    I'll be happy to keep every here posted with my experience with both the dealer and Nissan if this issue escalates any further.
  • tcb6tcb6 Member Posts: 1
    Replaced the two front sway bar links -this stopped a clucking sound when the Pathfinder swayed over bumps. Have a new sound-low cluck when the breaks are applied and just prior to a complete stop. Not consistent!
    Think I can feel the cluck through the break petal-breaks, rear links ???

    Any ideas?
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    Well, I guess enough time has passed, plus now Rhymerguy’s post, that I should update the board on the SUCCESSFUL outcome and resolution of my “service engine soon” light situation. Strap on your helmets; this is a long post. :(

    Short answer: charcoal canister filter had a hairline crack (as I had asked them to check from Day 1!!!!!! (see my prior posts)), the new canister has completely removed problem, temporary sunroof operation was a non-issue, and in exchange for my hard Lemon Law work, I now own the top of the line, longest length, gold-preferred premium Nissan policies: 1) 100000 mile, no-deductible, extended warranty/service contract, and 2) 75000 mile scheduled maintenance service contract (oil changes every 3K, rental cars, the works). Yes, I am very satisfied with Nissan’s treatment once I issued my demand letter with a draft Lemon Law Notice attached. I AM back to being a “happy camper,” and although I could have gone for more (a few months car payments, etc.), I decided these two policies that I negotiated were a fair outcome, given the problem was a “service engine soon” light and not something like some have experienced with transmissions, engines, etc. on some American models. These policies don’t cost Nissan much from a company perspective, but their retail value is in the $ thousands $ (e.g., a 30K mile service at the premium level runs $550! What a rip!) – so, I’ll take them and go back to enjoying my new PF. Overall, I give Nissan an A for the professionalism and absolutely perfect follow-up that Nissan Arbitration displayed. If they are always like this, then I know why NSANY (Nissan’s stock symbol) has jumped from the mid teens to 21 overnight. The key, as I said in an earlier post, is to arm yourself with the facts and information, document everything, do it in writing, and make clear demands. You do NOT need to be a lawyer; an on-the-ball consumer should be able to do the same. I will admit that Nissan Consumer Affairs didn’t particularly impress me, as it wasn’t until the demand letter writing stage with numerous attachments, receipts, etc. that things got moving with them and they started to pay attention. In the end, Nissan Corporate made good and made me whole and did the best under the circumstances given the fact that they had a service center that regrettably missed something that they maybe should have caught early on. Rhymerguy, you need to read on and consider your options; the fact that it was a demo is probably IRRELEVANT.
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    I just read your post, Rhymerguy. PLEASE take the time to check into your state’s lemon law. There are TONS of web sites that have links to all the laws. It is not just the first owner of a vehicle, but usually any subsequent owner if the vehicle is still in the statutory period. This stuff is really not THAT complicated. Read the statute; see if you fall in or out. These are some of the most “consumer protective” laws around. If you are in, it is amazing what you can recover under the statute (lost use, all your aftermarket accessories, attorney’s fees, mileage, etc.) for even the slightest problem like a check engine light (all it has to do is technically affect the value of the vehicle). Even if you are out of the statute, but say within your warranty period, there is enough ammo at these websites such that you could assemble your own demand letter based on another state/federal law (warranty, fraud, breach of contract, etc.). By getting the info, and putting it in writing, and making your demands, it will be much easier to negotiate from a position of strength. So, Rhymerguy, go check this stuff out!
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    From earlier posts, you know about my “service engine soon” light and the temporary sunroof operation problems.

    Turns out the erratic sunroof behavior that lasted for a few seconds can happen anytime the battery is disconnected. The sunroof computer is very primitive. After losing power, it has to run through almost a “self test” to “find out” how to line up, etc. This was explained by corporate to me and their description of the behavior matched exactly what my sunroof did that one time. Similar to a copy machine that may stall and have to run through a self-test to figure out “where it was” and “line itself back up” for normal operations. The sunroof has worked perfectly since!

    The “service engine light” story recap in a nutshell (now, remember, from the beginning I said “why don’t you double-check the charcoal canister as I know it is NOT a loose gas cap, as from my Edmund's pals I know to turn it MANY clicks"); each number represents a trip into the dealer:

    1) Light ON; they said loose gas cap, sent me away; 2) back ON; they replaced gas cap, sent me away; 3) back ON; they replaced some valve under the hood that Nissan Tech advised them to replace, sent me away [turns out that they never called Nissan tech]; 4) back ON; they ordered new gas tank, sent me away; 5) part came in, they replaced gas tank, sent me away; 6) back ON; they said they would have their “regional expert guy” look at it, I said "no-way," demand letter time (see next post); 7) after receiving written confirmation of the Nissan extended warranty and service contract, returned vehicle to dealer, corporate tech immediately determined that it was the canister filter (as I asked from beginning!), replaced, and problem solved on first try!

    The reason they were getting a gas cap code on the diagnostic was because this canister filter under the driver’s side rear (under the vehicle) had a hairline crack that was letting air seep in just like a loose gas cap. It took a while to order a replacement filter as these were on national backorder. Apparently, there may have been a bad batch of these on vehicles getting replaced around the country as nothing explained why the part was out of stock like this. Rhymerguy, you may have the same problem (but even so, get at least some dispensation for your hassles if they don't fix after a resonable number of tries, e.g., like 3 tries! (see next post)). It seems the dealers just go through the next step of their flow chart of what the problem may be; but, based on my experience, insist they go back and check the most basic of things. You may even deserve some free service contracts like me depending on what you end up going through after all this; document everything (days lost use, etc.); I am 90% sure you may be covered under the statute. In VA, it only takes 3 attempts. At a minimum, they need to make you whole and feel like you neither gained nor lost from the experience of the multiple trips and hassle. Had they not fixed mine on that immediate next try after getting the two contracts, my next step would have been to file the formal lemon law notice or give them another couple attempts in exchange for three months of car payments (basically, the duration of the time where I was inconvenienced and losing use of my vehicle).

    One good strategy I learned for any future repair attempt that seems “dicey” (this is from a Nissan corporate insider), is always call Nissan Consumer Affairs that you are taking the vehicle in for X or Y work/problem and you want them to follow-up with the dealer. Tell the dealer that you did this as well and that Consumer Affairs should be contacting them to make sure all went well with whatever it was. This puts the dealer on notice and makes sure they are really following the correct procedures and not saying they called Nissan Tech when they never did. Also, I now have a form letter that I update and whip off my computer anytime I drop the vehicle off for overnight service; for example, just got back from the 7500 service (all free!) and my letter said in part to make sure to not over torque the lug nuts on tire rotation. [If for some reason they did, and I was stranded with a flat somewhere, then believe me, it would be another demand letter to Nissan Corporate with that letter as documentation. There are good reasons why they always say to put things in writing.]
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    Because I had been in 5 times for the same problem (only need three times under VA law, and if part is out of stock, that counts as well if you have to return again . . . so, read up on your rights on the Internet!), I had an open and shut case of a lemon vehicle that if the dealer could not fix in 15 days from official notice, then they MUST buy the vehicle back for original price paid plus all your accessories, costs, etc. (minus something for mileage). Also, if it had been in the shop for over 30 days for unrelated problems (so, doesn’t have to be the same problem even!), then that is another angle under the statute for a claim. Once the dealer is forced to buy back, then they forever have to tag the vehicle with bad title as a lemon. Believe me, the dealer will do anything to avoid a lemon buy-back. They would even prefer to buy the vehicle back from you directly (outside the Lemon law) to avoid that bad title. [Again, as I said above, you should send a blank E-mail to kkulig@aol.com with the words "Lemon Law Document Request" in the subject line. You will receive a terrific document in a reply E-mail that explains another guy’s story.] Back to my story: I didn’t want to trigger the Lemon Law. Why? Because the threat of triggering it has much more leverage for you in negotiations. So I talked briefly to a Lemon Law attorney who sent me free materials at no charge, talked to VA state consumer protection folks (every state has them) who mediate these disputes between car manufacturers and the public all the time, got all the angles on what you can and can’t get, etc., what is fair, etc., and got sample Lemon Law Notification letters from the Internet. Then I wrote up a DRAFT Lemon Law Notification letter, complete with Attachments A-C documenting unsuccessful E-mail correspondence with Consumer Affairs, all invoices from 5 visits, and a chronology of all the notes I composed throughout this process. I then attached this draft notification letter to a cover letter stating that if I did not receive a response 7 days from receipt, and then a course of action and game plan was not resolved to my satisfaction 3 days from the date they contacted me after that receipt, then I would be submitting the attached draft notification letter to formally trigger the lemon law and put them at risk of buying back and ending up with a forever defective lemon vehicle. I sent it certified mail, return receipt requested, to Nissan Consumer Affairs. In no time they were in touch and wanted to send their expert out. I said, there was no way I was going to continue this process (when my vehicle already qualified as a lemon) without dispensation to make me whole for what I had ALREADY been through. Thus, began the negotiation. The extended warranty is a no-brainer; don’t get fooled. On average, it costs them hardly anything (although you pay $1500 for a no-deductible 100K mile one at vehicle purchase!). Basically, I made it clear that, even if they could fix the vehicle, I had lost so much confidence and had such aggrevation (all very true), that there was no way I was going to forgo my lemon law notice (and potential buy-back) without a warranty for as long as I owned this vehicle that had already had all these problems. That immediately changed the bargaining to be over the scheduled maintenance, which IS at least worth something, especially if you are not a do-it-yourself’er (but then again, under normal circumstances, I would never pay $550 for a premium 30K mile check-up, unless I were really worried about not living up to the warranty requirements or something . . . which is a whole other "subject" (some say "scam")). So, I told them I would only give their expert a shot at repairing the vehicle outside the lemon law with the longest/best maintenance contract available (75K, premium gold-preferred). For even if they repaired it on the next try, that was the only thing that would make me feel whole again considering all the aggravation I had been through (all very true). They agreed and did not play games; again, this guy was a pro. No miscommunication; he knew I had the facts, the law, and was not overreaching but just asking for what seemed fair. Although he tried to just leave things at that, he did agree to my request to fax over a letter in writing confirming everything. Very good follow-through. Probably one of the few times in life where I had someone so “on the ball” that I walked away not only feeling good about the result, but good about Nissan. (I know, sounds cheesy, but all true . . . and I am not getting paid for this diatribe, believe me.) Then, I took the vehicle back in, and as I posted above, they fixed it on the first try! Both service contracts showed up as promised 2 weeks later. After my recent FREE 7500 mile service, I received TWO calls from the dealer to make sure all was well with my vehicle service. :> [The service guys were drop-jawed though to find out I got all the free scheduled maintenance for a check engine light. :> They were good guys, you can’t blame them and want to keep a good relationship, so basically you got to blame the Nissan system that somehow missed this early on either through inattention, not calling Tech when they said they did, etc., etc., basically not giving enough individualized attention to my vehicle before sending me home after simply taking the gas cap on and off and saying all was well . . . but in the end, the system, at least for my case, made up for itself and its oversights.]

    I think there is some new JD Power survey where Nissan did really well, right? A sign of my exeprience.

    Anyway, all is well that ends well! It sounds like all this was days of work, but really the mental aggravation and waiting were the bad part - writing the letters, doing the research/follow-up, writing this Post!, etc. were not that bad at all! :>

    P.S. If they had not fixed it on that try, I think I said that then it would have been me filing the lemon law notice and triggering the statute or them agreeing to cover 3 months payments (~$600 a month) before I let them have another shot at some more repair attempts. Again, demand letters are very effective! The threat makes them more likely to respond positively, then does running off to file suit, which often only entrenches your “adversary.”

    Hope this story helps/motivates others!
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    In case it helps, here it is Rhymerguy (took out my personal info.):

    [Date]

    Nissan North America, Inc.
    Consumer Affairs Department
    P.O. Box 191
    Gardena, CA 90248-0191

    BY CERTIFIED MAIL
    RETURN RECEIPT REQUESTED

    Dear Sir or Madam:

    I am writing this letter to alert you that I am considering seeking redress under the Virginia Motor Vehicle Warranty Enforcement Act, Title 59.1, Chapter 17.3, §59.1-207.9 - §59.1-207.16. This letter concerns problems that I have had with my [describe vehicle], VIN# [insert VIN]. Unless you contact me within seven calendar days of your receipt of this letter to discuss these problems, I will formally notify you of these problems by submitting the attached draft notification. If, at the time you contact me within the seven-day period, we can not reach an agreement regarding these problems that rectifies the situation to my satisfaction, then I will formally notify you by submitting the attached draft notification immediately thereafter. Please contact me at the above work telephone number so that we may discuss and (hopefully) resolve this most unfortunate situation.

    Sincerely,

    [Name]

    Attachment
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    Here is the DRAFT Lemon Law notification letter that was attached to the cover letter (notice I put "DRAFT" in caps at the very top to alert them that nothing had been or was being officially filed at that time). Also, you'll realize that the Attachment B referenced in the second paragraph of the letter below is the very same cover letter that they were receiving that same day (thus, I included an identical signed copy of the cover letter in the above post as an Attachment B to this DRAFT notification letter). :>> Here it is (glad I never had to officially file it):

    DRAFT

    [Your name]
    [Address]
    [Phone]

    [Date]

    Nissan North America, Inc.
    Consumer Affairs Department
    P.O. Box 191
    Gardena, CA 90248-0191

    BY CERTIFIED MAIL
    RETURN RECEIPT REQUESTED

    Dear Sir or Madam:

    I am writing to notify you of the nonconformity I have had with [describe vehicle], VIN# [insert VIN], pursuant to the Virginia Motor Vehicle Warranty Enforcement Act, Title 59.1, Chapter 17.3, §59.1-207.9 - §59.1-207.16.

    By way of background, I first informed Nissan of this nonconformity by written submission on [date] at the www.nissanusa.com website (see Attachment A). After receiving no formal response from Nissan other than an E-mail acknowledgment from Nissan Consumer Affairs confirming the receipt of my written submission, I sent you a letter, certified mail/return receipt requested, on [date] alerting you of my intent to submit the instant notification and seek redress under the Virginia Motor Vehicle Warranty Enforcement Act (see Attachment B).

    I purchased my vehicle from [dealer] on [date]. Approximately five months after purchase, I began having trouble with the vehicle when the malfunction indicator lamp (i.e., “Service Engine Soon” light) came on steady. I took my vehicle to [dealer] on [date], [date], [date], [date], and [date] to have this nonconformity corrected, but to date, the dealer has been unable to do so. Thus far, this dealership has attempted to repair this nonconformity four times. Attached are copies of the five repair orders that document the dealership's four attempts to repair my vehicle (see Attachment C). In addition, I have included a summary of details and notes that I have compiled describing each of my five visits to the dealership during the months of [insert months] (see Attachment D).

    This nonconformity significantly impairs the use, market value, and safety of my vehicle. Because this same nonconformity has been subject to repair three or more times by this Nissan dealership and the same nonconformity continues to exist, this letter serves as notice of your final opportunity to correct or repair the nonconformity. Unless you are able to correct this nonconformity within 15 days of your receipt of this letter, I request that you accept return of my vehicle and refund the full purchase price under the provisions of Section 59.1-207.13 of the Virginia Motor Vehicle Warranty Enforcement Act. Pursuant to this Section, I request that you refund all collateral charges and incidental damages, including but not limited to [insert dollar amount] of Nissan and aftermarket accessories purchased for my vehicle from [purchase date] until present. In addition, under this Section, I request that you provide compensation for yet-to-be-determined mileage placed on my vehicle, expenses including but not limited to loss of work, and reasonable loss of use for [insert number] days necessitated by these above-referenced attempts to conform my vehicle to the express warranty.

    At this time, pursuant to Section 59.1-207.15, I do not elect to use Nissan’s informal dispute settlement procedure to avail myself of my rights under the Virginia Motor Vehicle Warranty Enforcement Act. Any loss by reason of your violation of any provision of Section 59.1-207.13 will result in civil action to enforce such provision. It is my hope that we can avoid such an action by either: (a) your correction of this nonconformity within 15 days of your receipt of this letter; or (b) your compliance with my requests described in the immediately preceding paragraph. If a reasonable resolution under either (a) or (b) does not occur, however, then I intend to enforce Section 59.1-207.13 by civil action where I shall also seek to recover reasonable attorney's fees, expert witness fees and court costs incurred by bringing such action.

    Please contact me at the above address or telephone number to arrange a mutually convenient date and time for you to inspect my vehicle and make the necessary repairs.

    Sincerely,

    [leave the actual signature section blank for now!]

    [your name]

    Enclosures
         Attachment A: [name]
         Attachment B: [name]
         Attachment C: [name]
         Attachment D: [name]
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    At a minimum, Rhymerguy, you should start keeping a list like this, or it's easy to forget everything:

    Last updated [insert date]

    Owner:
    [Your name]
    [Address]
    [Phone]

    Vehicle:
    [describe vehicle]
    [insert VIN]
    PURCHASED: [date]

    Visit #: 1
    Date: [date]
    Mileage: 5,306
    Instructions/Problem Description: diagnose reason for “service engine soon” light that has been glowing steady since [date]; explained that I did not think it was due to the common loose gas cap problem which I had been aware of and avoided since vehicle purchase by always turning 3 clicks x 3 times for a total of 9 clicks
    Repair: tightened gas cap and cleared codes

    Visit #: 2
    Date: [date]
    Mileage: 5,419
    Instructions/Problem Description: diagnose reason for “service engine soon” light that has been glowing steady since [date]; explained that I did not think it was due to a defective gas cap as the cap had never been physically damaged, and if it had been defective then the “service engine soon” light would have appeared soon after initially buying vehicle; requested examination of charcoal canister filter and hoses under vehicle rear
    Repair: replaced gas cap with new cap and cleared codes

    Visit #: 3
    Date: [date]
    Mileage: 5,550
    Instructions/Problem Description: diagnose reason for “service engine soon” light that has been glowing steady since [date]; requested examination of charcoal canister filter and hoses under vehicle rear
    Repair: at advice of Nissan Tech, replaced purge control valve and cleared codes

    Visit #: 4
    Date: [date]
    Mileage: 5,745
    Instructions/Problem Description: diagnose reason for “service engine soon” light that has been glowing steady since [date]; requested examination of charcoal canister filter and hoses under vehicle rear; requested loaner car
    Repair: received loaner; informed that charcoal canister would be replaced; in examining charcoal canister filter and hoses, discovered fuel back-up and suspected defective valve in gas tank; when informed that customer has never topped off tank, conclusion that this was certain to be source of problem; returned vehicle to owner until replacement gas tank and fuel gag valve could be ordered

    Visit #: 5
    Date: [date]
    Mileage: 5,745
    Instructions/Problem Description: installation of replacement gas tank and fuel gag valve; requested loaner car
    Repair: received loaner; installed replacement gas tank and fuel gag valve and cleared codes

    Next Visit #: TBD
    Date: TBD
    Mileage: TBD
    Instructions/Problem Description: explained on [date] that for some reason all my presets (seat memory, radio stations, etc.) had been erased; described new additional problem with sunroof operation where “one-touch open/close button” acted like a tilt control (sunroof would NOT one-touch automatically open as normally had, but would only tilt up and down) and “tilt button” acted like an open/close button (but with movements of only opening 2 inches at a time upon each press of button); explained that within 30 seconds of pressing and discovering sunroof button problems, “service engine soon” light reappeared; requested diagnosis of reasons for loss of presets, temporary sunroof button problems (operates normally now), and “service engine soon” light that has been glowing steady since [date]; explained that I would contact Nissan Consumer affairs for advice as to next steps; requested re-examination of charcoal canister filter and hoses under vehicle rear; requested loaner car
    Repair: service advisor explained that loss of all presets (seat memory, radio stations, etc.) was due to battery disconnection; no explanation as to source of problem for temporary sunroof button problems and “service engine soon” light that has been glowing steady since [date]

    * * * * *

    P.S. Can you believe after all that it actually was the Charcoal Canister all along!!! Aargh. :>
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    OK, very informative posts mjohnr99. Last I checked we don't have lemon laws in Canada. Luckly, I don't need one. What I'd like to know, is how do I clean the top of the sunroof shade? It's got a lot of dust and seed fluff on it, but you can't close it with the sunroof open. Tilting the sunroof doesn't open it enough to get a vacuum tool in there very far. Anyone have any ideas?
  • walter12walter12 Member Posts: 30
    I hope I never have to go the route you took to get your situation resolved. However, if any of us need to, I know we will all be much better prepared due to your posts. Thanks. I live in California and our 2003 PF LE developed a rattle that sounded like engine knock during the first month of ownership. Luckily, when I went back to the dealer, they immediately sent me on a ride with their mechanic and the PF did its knocking. It turned out to be a heat shield and they fixed it on the first try. But, being the paranoid person I am, I had started a cursory CA lemon law search in case I needed to go this route. I like your suggestion to give the service department a letter detailing any concerns when dropping off your car. Again, thanks for all the information.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Interesting problem.

    I suppose you could try another approach: rather than vacuum it, you could use compressed air, either in a can or with a high-pressure air compressor (i.e. gas station).

    You can easily find cans of compressed air at Wal-mart, office supply or electronic outlets. Costco stores carry compressed air in sets.

    First, tilt the sunroof up, then close the sunroof shade. Aim the compressed air into the left rear corner open sunroof and blast the stuff out the right side. You could also leave the shade partially open, but then some debris will fall into the cabin, where you'll have to vacuum or wipe it away.
  • garthdgarthd Member Posts: 2
    2 things I am trying to get fixed:
    1) shrill metallic squeal coming from front end after 15-20min driving, appears once speed is over 40kph

    2) power loss at higer speed/high rpms (ie hills climbs over 70kpm and 3500 RPM). Engine feels like it is choking itself out. Easing up on gas results in power recovery.

    Any thoughts?
  • jenclaire67jenclaire67 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Pathfinder with the factory installed 6 CD in Dash Changer. After about the 3rd month I had the Pathfinder the CD player began stopping as if stuck, the player is still on, just stuck on spot on CD then starts again. The problem doesn't happen at all if the vehicle is stopped. It typically starts happening after I hit 30mph. It is worse after the car hasn't been driven for a while. Doesn't matter whether road is bumpy or smooth or whether CDs are new or old. I just had the CD player completely replaced under warranty and the problem began again 3 days after replacement. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • dnr01dnr01 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a used 2000 Pathfinder SE and the we seem to have the front end shimmy and hard pull to the right going on. The dealer has put on all new tires and we thought being the old ones were a little worn on one side it needed to be aligned as well, they didn't think so. So we get the car back and it wasn't pulling but it was shimmying/shaking at high speeds...over 60. We brought it back again and they altered the air a little in the tires... Can anyone help? There are days when I don't drive as fast that it seems fine, just on the highways is where you really start to notice.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    I see this is old with no replies, so I assume you still want a fix. This looks to me to be an out of balance wheel(s). Wheel balancing on the newer PFs is very difficult (wheel design or something). They need to use a Hunter high tech. balancer. Search through the posts and you'll find the info or check the "faq".
  • woodyr1woodyr1 Member Posts: 142
    Hi:

    I just had a new windshield installed in my 2001 Pathfinder. I noticed that the air bag lamp stays on for about 3 to 5 seconds when the engine is started. I have had this vehicle since new, and don't recall ever seeing this lamp illuminated at startup. Should the lamp stay on for 3 to 5 seconds upon startup?

    I believe the windshield installer mentioned something to do with the passenger side air bag being involved with windshield replacement.

    Thanks

    Woody
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    As far as I know the lamp at startup is a good sign. It is when it stays on after that there is a problem. I have a 2001 LE pathy and that is normal. I believe that it is a startup check on the Airbag SRS system. Only thing I can think of that is effected by a new windshield is the embedded antenna for the radio (the orange strip down the center of glass).
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    I have a 2001 LE Pathy and the other day I removed the negative terminal on the battery to replace the in cabin microfilter. I did as the instruction recommended and replaced it the filter with relative ease. After connecting the negative terminal back on the battery, everything was fine until I turned on the engine and the CD changer immediately grinds intermittently as if it were searching for CDs. I didn't even turn it on. I have always had 6 discs in there a a time with no problems. Most of them are CDRs. Well, now, the radio displays an Err2 code and the CD changer is nonfunctional. Can't play or eject the CDs. The radio works fine.

    Brought it to the dealer and they are ordering a whole new radio and cd changer. "That's what is prescribed by Nissan." My CDRs do not have labels on them so the thickness issues identified on ealier posts do not apply.

    So, the next time I have to disonnect the battery for service I will run into this problem? I am afraid my warranty will run out and I will flip the bill for a WHOLE new radio. Anyone have or have not had similar problems when disconnecting the battery?
  • brisoupbrisoup Member Posts: 56
    Hi. I also change the micro filter myself.I did not disconnect the battery because replacing the microfilter does not directly involve anything electrical. The only thing I can assume is when you re-connected the battery there may have been some kind of surge that shorted out your radio unit. Was your radio on when you disconnected and re-connected your battery? Thats the only explanation I can think of.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Thanks for the insight. No, I didn't have the radio on. Wouldn't the fuses protect the CD changer from electrical surges? All electrical items reset due to power loss so the radio was off. As soon as I switched ignition to on position the CD-Changer grinds and the radio was off. Now it grinds everytime I start up the car and the radio is off.

    Do we really need to disconnect the battery for any maintenance items? It beats resetting all of your custom settings. I can only think of the fuel related maintenance as needing a disconnect (just in case of electric spark).

    Well, fortunately it was covered under factory warranty. Warranty will expire in 2K miles. I won't be disconnecting the battery unless I absolutely have too for safety reasons.
  • brisoupbrisoup Member Posts: 56
    Well I'm glad to hear your truck is still under warrenty.To replace one of these radios is very expensive.I would only disconnect the battery to replace it or If I'm replacing the starter or like you said working on the fuel system.Hopefully when one of us has to disconnect the battery we do not run into any problems!
  • vsaxenavsaxena Member Posts: 211
    Our service engine light on the 1999.5 Pathfinder LE 4x4 keeps on toggling. I had the car serviced during warranty a few times and I was told that it was the O2 sensors. Once I was told that it was the lose gas cap. Now I make sure that the gas cap is always tight but the light still comes on once in a while.

    The interesting thing is that after a few days or weeks of driving it goes off. The last two times it has come on, I have gone over a hard bump on the Freeway (and the light seems to come on right after that).

    BTW, is this covered in the 5 year emission warranty or will I have to shell out $$$$ for the dealer to tell me that my gas cap was lose.

    Also if I disconnect the battery to reset the computer, how long should I keep it off? Any precautions to take while changing the battery?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    In my experience, this does not reset the ECU. The codes are stored and must be erased with the Consult equipment the dealer has. As for the radio experience, the radio is really never "off". It just goes into standby mode when you tell it to turn off.

    If you have to disconnect a battery, be careful when reconnecting (or disconnecting). Try to not intermittantly connect/disconnect it. Just one connection or disconnection (be firm or deliberate so you get one spark only).
  • sivi1sivi1 Member Posts: 82
    02 le put in 4 wheel lo range to back boat up driveway, did the same going forward, both times tried to unlock with switch to 2wd. first time it took 20 minutes of back, forward, and circles to unlock. second time it would not unlock at all. after letting it set overnight it unlocked. called service rep at my dealer, and he said he never heard of transfer case doing this. i am going to take to dealer, but it is hard to replicate. always happens 60 miles from dealer, i tried to do this close to dealer, but it always works correctly,i am confused. any answers ?
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    I assume your drive way is either asphalt or concrete and you probably have a curb. All of these are bad for 4hi or lo. If either of these are the case you are binding up your drive line which puts a lot of stress on the transfer case, causing it to get stuck in 4wd. Going up the curb would cause the most problems because as you are backing up your rear wheels will need to rotate faster than the front to go up the curb or any incline. In 4LO or hi your transfer case is locked and it will bind as the front and rear axle try to rotate at different speeds (that's is the beauty of auto mode, it doesn't lock the transfer case). Bottom line is don't use 4hi or lo on dry surfaces.

    Do you really need 4 lo to back your boat up your drive way? My boat weighs about 4500lbs w/trailer and my drive way is fairly steep with a large curb. I've never had any problem backing up the driveway in 2wd, even while backing w/o locking out the surge brakes on the trailer. I have an 01 LE.
  • sivi1sivi1 Member Posts: 82
    had 3 k blazers, 2 4runners and allways used low range, i guess i did not like engine screaming, it just felt like i was straining tranny. of course they all had manual stick for 4wd and all were automatics trannys. i have no curb and last time it locked up i was putting on ramps to change oil. do you think it could be electric switch {selenoids} since i hear no beeps when i turn it?
  • world_travelerworld_traveler Member Posts: 153
    Could be a selenoid. It happened to me on my 4Runner, I could operate the 4wd shifter but it would not engage the 4wd (either hi or lo). The dealer replaces the selenoid.

    Sivi1, I tend to agree with dieselone about the use of 4wd to backup a boat. I don't see how it can help you or your engine unless the wheels spins badly when you backup (it should not be the case on paved driveway). I've backuped my boat in many difficult places with both the 4Runner and Pathfinder and to be honest 4wd would have complicated my life more than help (4wd binding issue on paved road).

    I think that you should be careful about doing this. It could cost you dearly in the long run.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Good point Pathstar,

    I do remember connecting the negative terminal multiple times because I was not satisfied with the connection fit. I remember it sparked (very small sparks) everytime. Must of did it 2-3 times. I still can't believe that would cause the CD changer to go nuts. It sounds like good advice though. Thanks.

    Dealer called me today to say the new radio has arrived. Will go in tomorrow to install. Thank goodness I messed up the CD changer 2K miles before the warrantly ran out.
  • vsaxenavsaxena Member Posts: 211
    The light went off again. The only pattern we have observed is that it goes off if I do not drive the vehicle for sometime. My wife insists that is something which I do to her SUV.

    What I am worried about is that the light will come back on when the time for the smog check comes. Have others here experienced anything like this? Should I still take it to the dealer??
  • texamau1texamau1 Member Posts: 42
    KZC2, could you send me the instruction on how to rewire the fog light (pathfinder). my email is texamau2@netscape.net..
    Thanks
  • notunesnotunes Member Posts: 3
    I'm hoping that some fresh eyes see this posting...I am having issues with my '03 PF cd changer. Yesterday it was properly working, then this morning it started reading 'Check Disc' as it cycled through each of the 6 cds in the deck. I did not remove any of the cds between use. I am using commercially recorded cds as well. The stereo/radio appears to be working normally. Any ideas, other than making a trip to the dealer.
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    My 01 LE did the same thing a while back. If I drove it more than an hour the CE light would come on. After a few days of short trips it would turn off. It ended up being the o2 sensors. I had them replaced under warranty and haven't had a problem since and that was about 20k miles ago. On a side note, after having the sensors changed my fuel economy increased by about 2-3mpg.
  • vsaxenavsaxena Member Posts: 211
    The O2 sensors on our vehicle )99.5 LE 4x4) were changed a few times by the dealer during the warranty period. From what I know these are not covered by the emission warranty. If a component is replaced a few times under warranty, does Nissan any commitment to fix it when the car is out of warranty? It has been almost two years since the O2 sensors were fixed. Another dealer who addresse the problem blamed it on the gas cap (which I think was baloney since we make sure it clicks 5 times after we fill-up).
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    I really doubt Nissan will replace your o2 sensors out of warranty even if they've been replaced in the past. O2 sensors are basically wear out items. Even if they never cause the check engine light to come on, most engines will run more efficiently if they are changed every 50-60k miles. If you have a good relationship with your dealer, they may be able to help you out, but I wouldn't hold your breath.

    Nissan seems to have problems with o2 sensors. Most people I know that have Nissan v6 powered vehicles tend to have o2 sensors as a common problem.

    Good luck.
  • vsaxenavsaxena Member Posts: 211
    Unfortunately this SUV has been to too many dealers. Purchased from a dealer in Queens, NY; serviced by two other dealers in Suffolk County, NY. The first one replaced the O2 sensors twice; the second one blamed it on the service cap. Then the 30K service at a dealer in NorthWest suburbs of Chicago and the last service at a dealer in the Silicon Valley (San Jose, CA), where we currently live! When we got the car smogged in California last winter, we were lucky to get away with the check engine light.

    Any recommendation for a good non-dealer service shop in the Silicon Valley for Nissans?
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Notunes,

    I experienced something similar. It displayed Err2 on the display. AM/FM Radio worked fine. Took it to the dealer. Ordered whole new radio/Changer and replaced it two weeks later. Did it under warranty. Lost about two hours total estimate/repair time. Waiting for them to send me back my stuck CDs. My problem came from disconnecting my battery, last thing I did before it did not work. Don't connect and disconnect too many times in a row like I did.

    Changers are known to have problems for reg. CDs and CDRs. Changers are poor quality. Slow and problematic. Get it to the dealer before warranty runs out, forget about fixing it. They will glance at it and order a new one, hopefully.
  • neptunedudeneptunedude Member Posts: 9
    I have a 01 Pathfinder that makes this whining/wheezing sound when I first start the engine on rainy or humid days? The wheezing comes from the engine, and after a few miles of driving the sounds subsides. Does anyone else has this problem or know what is causing this sound, is this normal?
    Also I have the same problem that a lot of other people had with the CD-changer. When I put a disc in my # 1 disc slot it reads Err2. On the rest of the disc slots it reads the CD perfectly normal, so I know it is not the CD that I am using, did anyone come up with a solution to fixing the CD changer besides replacing the unit? I am over my warranty and don’t want to shell out $500 for a new radio unit.
    Your help is greatly appreciated.
  • grabirongrabiron Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 w/43,000 miles. Right rear tailamp is not working - right one is - and yes have changed/checked the bulbs and they are fine. Brake lights on both sides ok. Have cleaned the contacts and checked the fuses.

    Any other ideas other than let the dealship play with it and charge mega bucks? If I have a short in the wiring would not know where to start.

    Appreciate it!
  • tbhagwagtbhagwag Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a used 03 Pathfinder SE a week ago. I looked into the owners manual for fuel recommendations and it said that it needs at least 87 AKI but 91 AKI is recommended. So I filled my new truck with regular unleaded gas. I drove around town for a week and havent noticed any knocking or performance reduction as yet. I am not sure though if it makes a difference to the engine in the long run. Will it make the engine wear out sooner?? Any suggestions/recommendations??

    I was cleaning my car with the engine and A/C on and noticed water leaking from the underside? The manual says that it is normal. Is it really??
  • kmrqkmrq Member Posts: 50
    water underside is normal, all cars leaks water when AC is used. And as for 87oct, it should be okay. 91 recommendation is if you wanna get max performace out of your VQ engine.
  • elbianelbian Member Posts: 10
    Just replaced the A/C compressor on my 91 Pathfinder (132k) and ever since I've had a problem with cold start stalling and with a rough idle. The engine wants to stall in the morning when cold and the idle fluctuates up and down after it starts. This rough idle is less noticeable when the engine is warm but it still occurs. No stalling when warm though, runs great. I was told it was a possible problem with the O2 sensors or air regulator? Anybody have a similar problem or suggestions?
  • songokuhsongokuh Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced an O2 sensor on my '96 that had been bad for quite some time. The problem now is, while driving in any gear between 2000-3000 rpm the engine will move in spurts and starts and the rpms flutter down about 500 rpm and then back up again. Finally, it will break out and run smoothly above 3000 rpm. The problem is intermittent and happens about 75% of the time. Of course it NEVER happens when I take it to the dealer or an independent shop, which I have several times.

    I was wondering if the bad o2 sensor had been sending a rich mixture down the exhaust pipe and into the cat-conv. If there was a lot of hot fuel, I wonder if it melted the cat-conv and that is blocking the exhaust pipe. It seems like the problem might be caused by exhaust backing into the engine. Does this sound right?

    I just had it at an exhaust shop but they can't seem to reproduce the problem and don't want to replace the cat-conv. unless they are sure of what it is.
  • sivi1sivi1 Member Posts: 82
    when i complained about sloppy receiver all i got was to put tape around it. i decided to drill and tap underneath the receiver with one/half inch tap. put bolt in and problem was solved.
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