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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Have you tried fuel system cleaner, fuel filter replacement, throttle intake manifold body cleaning, tune up (plugs and wires connections), and check your distributor cap and rotor. Also, check if you have any air leaks from you air filter housing to your intake manifold. Small hole/cracks in the plastic intake pipe can cause hesitation and stalling. Good luck!
  • v6enginev6engine Member Posts: 10
    I've been monitoring my city fuel mileage on my 1990 pathfinder since last March. My mileage is about 13mpg in city traffic. When I take the expressway on long drives my mileage jumps to 22mpg. I log its consumption whenever I fuel up. That's too much of a difference. It does not consume oil and it has been passing all emission test in Georgia. It has high mileage (237K)but I do not believe that's a factor. Any suggestions at all?
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Try changing these if you have not done so already: Fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs and wires. Try also Power oil flushing and intake manifold cleaning. Use lighter weight oil. Check your tire pressure (low/underinflation will lose gas milage). Get wheel alignment if needed. Reduce excess weight in car. Hope that helps.
  • v6enginev6engine Member Posts: 10
    but the power flush that you suggested. I even change brand and octane level of gasoline to see what effect that have. Nada yet
    The computer codes from the ECM show nothing abnormal from the sensors. My previous city mileage was in the 17 to 18mpg range.It is just that I am running out of ideas as to where to look for the problem.
  • phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    I recently had the "check engine soon" MIL light up on my 2001 LE. Sure enough, it turned out to be a bad O2 sensor. Thing is, I had been suffering from bad mileage and relatively poor engine performance for at least 6 months prior to that with no obvious indication as to why.

    I was told that O2 sensors don't always just fail, they gradually degrade until they finally set a code....probably what happened to me. They also noted a large amount of buildup on the intake manifold which they cleaned using their "industrial" 2-part system. The result...unbelievable. I've fallen in love with this truck's performance again, and my city mileage has climbed back into the normal range.
  • v6enginev6engine Member Posts: 10
    that could sound logical. I glanced at my owner's manual, it mentioned changing it at 60K intervals.
    Last time I had it changed was a never. The computer had not shown any O2 failure code however.
    I'll mine replaced and hope for better results.
    Thanks for the advice
  • woodyr1woodyr1 Member Posts: 142
    Hi Phil:

    Did Nissan Canada warranty your 02 replacements?

    Woody
  • lawsonblawsonb Member Posts: 7
    I had the same problem with my 1993 Pathfinder. At about 175K miles it suddenly started getting poor gas mileage. I also began to notice during the winter there was a heavy gas odor when the car was warming up. This gas odor only occurred when it was cold outside. I took it to a variety of dealers (Nissan and otherwise) and they could never figure out the poor mileage or odor problem. I did many of the things that have been recommended to you. (Even replaced the charcoal canister to try to fix the odor problem.) The only thing that "seemed" to help was putting a fuel additive (injector cleaner) in the tank at fill up. Since I had 2 high mileage cars, I ended up selling the 93 Pathfinder for a 2002. It was a great truck otherwise. Extremely reliable. Hope the O2 sensors fix your problem. Perhaps mine were bad, but not bad enough to signal the code. If I remember, I never had them replaced because the dealers thought they weren't bad.
  • phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    Yes they did. I have the 7yr/140,000km extended warranty, but I'm not sure if it would also have been covered under the basic 3yr/60,000km emissions coverage since I was only a few weeks beyond the 3 years (and way under the 60,000km).
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    That is something new, never thought that you had to change out your O2 sensors at a Nissan recommended 60K miles. Hope it works, if not check you PCV valve and hoses. Good Luck!
  • sallen462sallen462 Member Posts: 4
    Hello All:

    I have a 2001 Pathfinder with 51K miles.
    It has a 6 month old set of Goodyear Fortera tires on it (that cost me a thousand dollars).
    The car is regularly maintained, the tires are rotated and balanced every 7500 miles and I've had the front end aligned a couple of times...not really because it needed it but once before the new tires and of course when I had the new tires installed.

    Here's the problem I'm having:

    About a week ago I noticed the brake pedal seemed really soft and would go all the way to the floor when I stepped on it. The brake wear indicators did not squeak and the car has full stopping power... the pedal was just really soft.

    By last weekend, it seemed to me that the front end of the car was actually lower than normal. I kept driving the car and by this past Tuesday I knew there was absolutely something wrong with the car. As I was going down the freeway at 50 to 70 miles an hour it seemed the car was actually lowering. I sorta had the sensation that I was driving on a flat or that a shock absorber (even though it doesn't have front shocks) had gone out.

    I took the car to the Nissan dealership and they say nothing is wrong. They supposedly measured the cars height from the top of the tires to the wheel wells and it is perfectly level. They checked the struts and they aren't leaking and seem to have no problems. The brakes are at 50% wear so they don't need to be replaced. However, the mechanic did say the brake pedal was abnormally soft so they replaced the master cylinder.

    I picked up the car today and the brakes are just like they were...the pedal goes all the way to the floor...and I mean all the way.

    I still have the sensation that the car is lower in the front. I don't know what has happened but the car has a totally different suspension, and steering wheel "feel" to it. It is not like it used to be. It doesn't have the tight, "riding high up" feel...it's like a totally different automobile.

    Does anyone have any suggestions? I know I'm not imagining this.

    Thank you.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    I also have the 01 LE. I don't have "front end lowering" at speeds problem but I notice that the left side of my car is lower by half an inch. Nissan measured it and said it was within Nissan specs. Can someone outside the car notice this, say another car traveling next to you?

    50K miles does not sound extreme for new struts needed. Push on each corner of front end and see if it comes up only once. A rocking front end (either corner) means struts are worn even if no leak is found in the struts themselves. Could also be worn coil springs not keeping proper ride height.

    Ask Nissan service tech to test drive it with you. Same goes for the brake pedal problem. That is a really serious safety issue. Tell them to bleed the system if not already done. Could be a lot of air bubbles in brake line (maybe leak, check fluid level). If not, tell them to adjust the brake pedal, see if that is out of spec. Good luck.
  • kmrqkmrq Member Posts: 50
    Hey, like you said, out of nowhere.. one day Pathy felt like it was sagging on the front, but for me it was only driver-side. So everytime I take right-turn it felt like pathy was gonna flip over to front-driver side. By the way I have 99.5 Pathy with 52k miles... so I decide to get Heavy Duty coil springs to replaced the OEM's.. well I did get about 1/2in to 1 in lift also I've replaced the front strut with new OEM and rear shocks with Rancho RS9000x shocks. First couple days it seemed that front-sagging was cured, but nope it came back. So I was still confused, I took it to the Nissan and Inifiniti dealership, and they said my suspension was fine and height was in their spec numbers. Then I came across another pathy owner at the other pathy forum and he made a 1/4" thick fabreeka shim to insert into front driver-side strut mounts, so I got that and inserted to solve the problem. Well it didn't solved it but it helped out little. I think I need a thicker insert but the problem is that that means I needed to longer bolts on strut mount and that would be too much hassle. I guess I have to live through this front sagging problem.
  • woodyr1woodyr1 Member Posts: 142
    Hi Phil:

    I spoke to the dealer today. The 02 sensors are warranted the 3yr/60000k here in Canada. There are apparently 4 on ours, and replacement beyond warranty is about $200 each (he says this is a lowered price than previous). It is interesting as now they are an engine type warranty. On my 95 Pathfinder, they were an emission control device, warranted at least 5 years. I had two or three replaced and never spent any money. I guess the manufacturers are saving money by effectively reducing warranty claims. Nissan used to have the extended warranty pricing on the web site, but I see it is now removed, necessitating contacting the dealer.

    Woody
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Your spongy brake pedal problem could be due to air in the brake lines or a rubber brake hose that is close to failure/rupturing. Like lbinh advised, bleed your brake lines, or have a shop do it for you. Also be sure to check the condition of the rubber brake hoses everywhere on the braking system. If any hose ruptures, you'll lose your brakes. Also check for fluid loss in the brake reservoir, which would indicate a leak.

    Your suspension problem could be merely perception... How long have you noticed this issue, and have you modified anything on your truck (i.e. new tires, springs, shocks, seat adjustments, brush guard, etc.) immediately prior to noticing it? Under what conditions does your truck feel "lower"? Only when stopped? When driving? What speeds? You could try adjusting your rear view mirror so that the horizon is at a particular height in your rear window, and drive a while at different speeds to see if the horizon moves up or down significantly. Naturally, this assumes you evaluate on a level road for several miles.
  • kamabokokamaboko Member Posts: 2
    hi,
    considering a 93 PF SE. i need to put a rack on it though that can support a 14 foot ladder. any suggestions?

    thanks,
    k
  • phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    youch...$200 a crack. I just checked my extended warranty (7yr/140,000km). It includes O2 sensors. According to the dealer, our high sulfur fuel in N.A. is killing these O2 sensors quicker than overseas.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Yes, that is the price that was on my "invoice" when mine failed last year. The vehicle was still on the 3 yr "everything covered" warranty. As I recall, they billed Nissan almost as much to install them (two O2 sensors). I don't think the extended warranty cost is less than replacing them, however. The dealer sent me a letter asking me to sign that I received the offer of the extended warranty, but the "offer" had no cost information. An offer without a cost is NOT an offer.
    Yet another reason to hate dealers ;-).
  • tymannost1tymannost1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have 2002 Pathfinder with 34,000 ml on it. I have had it for 16 month by now and had to replace oil control valve. How reliable this model is? Is it worth to purchase extended warranty on it? Thanks,

    t
  • v6enginev6engine Member Posts: 10
    I got almost a 3mpg gain in mileage after replacing my sensor in my 90 Pathfinder. I installed the sensor last Tuesday, fill up the car and drive it to work all week. I filled up again and calculated 15.7 miles in city driving. That's a good improvement over the 13 miles I was getting previously.
    Best to search the web for a sensor. The Nissan dealer in my area wanted $171 for it. I bought it for $86 on the web. The sensor is made by Bosch.
    Thanks to those who helped me diagnose my mileage problem.
  • jcbonfjcbonf Member Posts: 1
    I drove my 1988 Pathfinder from San Diego to Phoenix in July, Started out around noon.(113 degree day) I was fully loaded (Wife and two kids) , and hauling a trailer full of camping gear. After flying across the desert at 85 MPH with no problems, I got home, and several hours later the left side passenger seat was a smouldering ruin. I replaced the vehicle with another 1988 pathfinder, but my wife is understandably nervous about more long trips. Any possible suggestions as to the cause?

    Thanks
  • cptsimiancptsimian Member Posts: 2
    Greetings to all, first time here for me.

    I just bought an '89 Pathy SE. Have been having a problem with it idling at 2k rpm at start then fluctuating between 1500 and 2000 rapidly after warmed up. I was thinking it might be a vacuum leak but have no idea for sure yet. Soon as I can get a service manual will be figuring it out, thought I would see if anyone knows alredy though.

    Love this truck even with that problem.
  • jfbclujfbclu Member Posts: 7
    I recently bought a used 2001 PF SE. My first question is it looks likes many other people have had a problem with the Bose in-dash CD changer. Mine worked for about a week and now shows the error 02 message and doesn't work. Since this is out of warranty I'm hoping there is an easy (cheap) fix for this. Also, the front windshield washer stopped working when the fluid level got low. I filled the washer fluid tank and the back washer works fine but the front one still doesn't work. I cleaned out the front jets but it made no difference. Is there a separate pump for the front or does the one pump work both the front and the back? I tried to locate the pump but couldn't find it without taking out the front right wheel well liner. Any suggestions for either of these problems? Thanks.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Bose CD: There is no fix except to send the unit back to Clarion to rebuild. I had that done. They just replace the whole radio unit and not just the CD changer. I have not heard of a possible DIY fixes. The dealer I think charges $1600 for the complete Bose radio so a aftermarket head unit would be a lot cheaper and a lot better. Bose speakers might have ohm compatibility issues, check out Crutchfield.com, they are really great at finding the perfect match and helping you install it.

    Washer Motors: At least your rear one works. It should be separate from front pump. I try to look into this. Try to check if the fuses are out and if anything is clogging the lines.
  • jfbclujfbclu Member Posts: 7
    Thanks, but can't say I'm too excited about the cost on the Bose. Sounds like getting something new might be a better option. Is there one or two pumps for the washer fluid and where the he@# at they? How do you get to them (or it as the case may be)?
  • cptsimiancptsimian Member Posts: 2
    I found this site in my travels to find info for my own problems. It might be of some interest to you. It may not be cheap but it could end up cheaper than a new cd player.

    http://www.willmanselectronics.com/nissan.htm
  • paulotterstedtpaulotterstedt Member Posts: 9
    I have a 1997 PF 5 speed with 105 K miles. I want to keep it for a long while yet, but want to minimize the chances of getting stuck. It has recently had new timing belt, alternator, battery, clutch, muffler, struts, shocks, belts and hoses. I change the oil every 4K or so and it does not burn a drop. I recently got stuck for the first time ever when the alternator failed and I was running off the battery (strangely, the ABS idiot light came on but not the charging system light). I am trying to anticipate what might go wrong next and fix it before it happens. My guess would be trouble with the fuel system or cooling system (I do change the coolant and fuel filter every year). I was thinking of replacing the fuel pump, but saw a post suggesting that the pressure regulator is likely to go first. No sign of trouble at this stage with either component.

    Any thoughts - what's likely to go next on a vehicle with this many miles, and will it fail gradually or without warning?

    Thanks in advance to you auto experts out there.
  • vsaxenavsaxena Member Posts: 211
    Is it a straightforward job or does it require an experienced hand?
  • gelkstergelkster Member Posts: 3
    Hi- new member here- I own a 94 XE-V6, very reliable up to now. I went to start it yesterday & the dash/lights/radio/ came on, so I don't think it's the battery. There was a rapid machine-gun like noise(not loud)as long as I turned the key, then a hissing sound by the gas cap (rear pssgr side) for 5-10 secs after releasing the key. Alternator? Ignition? Help!

    I washed the car yesterday- water in somewhere it shouldnt be?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    If it didn't turn over, the clicking is the starter solonoid trying to engage. You should notice everything else go off (any interior lights, radio, etc.) when you try to start it. The battery is indeed dead. It has enough "residual charge" to operate lights and the radio when you are not trying to start it. Charge the battery for a few hours and try to start it again.
  • gelkstergelkster Member Posts: 3
    It didnt turn over, I tried jumping it using my wife's Saturn, to no avail. I just replaced the XE-V6 battery in May. I do have a charger I'll set up & see what happens. But what explains the brief hissing from near the gas cap?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    The fuel tank pressurizes itself when the ignition is on. It is supposed to be released by a valve to the carbon filter. On my Pathfinder, it sort of moans.
  • gelkstergelkster Member Posts: 3
    Battery fully charged- it starts! Thanks pathstar1!
  • v6enginev6engine Member Posts: 10
    It is straight forward. I sprayed the sensor with "liquid wrench" to loosen some rust and the rest was just pressure applied with a wrench.
    It is a 3 wire sensor that runs along the transmission and ends to a connector on the right of the vehicle. Make sure the wires are tied away from the right exhaust pipe.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Now you know smaller cars can't really jump larger cars because their batteries do not have enough amps to draw from. Have your Pathy checked out at the place you bought the battery or Autozone, Pep Boys, etc. They will check your charging system for free. You might have a defective battery and hopefully not a bad alternator. Replace it under warranty if needed. Good luck!
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Sounds like you are the auto expert. I think you have everything covered as far as maintenance. As long as your fuel pump is taken care of (fuel filter, PCV valve changes, and fuel treament), it should last a long time. Your car is relatively new. I had '88 Nissan truck and sold it in 1999, it ran great. Only had the starter replaced.

    Now I have a 2001 Pathy w/ 37K with no mechanical problems at all.
  • gdavid2gdavid2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1991 Pathfinder. It was in a front end collision, was still operational (radiator damage). Also had some body damage. Replaced radiator, fenders, etc... disconnected the battery, welded some, etc. Now will not run. Will start if gas is sprayed directly into the intake (via a spray bottle), but otherwise will not run on it's own. Checked pressure in the fuel rail - seems to be good according to specs in manual. I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem like this? It ran fine before the body work and radiator replacement.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    You mentioned welding and disconnecting the battery. Sounds like your computer may not be working. Check for blown fuses, both inside the engine bay and under the dash.
  • diamond06diamond06 Member Posts: 2
    Hi we're in the market for our very first mid-size SUV. Contemplating buying new vs used. Anyone have any unbiased opinions on the Toyota 4Runner vs the Nissan Pathfinder? Also we're in Iowa and both vehicles seem to be in short supply. Can anyone recommend a good website to find both? Thanks.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    This discussion in SUVs would be the best place to ask comparison questions for those two models.

    03 4Runner vs QX4, Pathfinder, Other - Longevity and Quality
  • gdavid2gdavid2 Member Posts: 2
    I got information from someone online, possible ignition coil, I changed ignition coil still no start, engine tries to start, but will not run, no codes in ECU, code 55 is normal Ecu operation, looking at service manual, tried different checks, spray fuel into intake and engine runs fine, fuel pressure while spraying fuel into intake meets specs, was reading in manual oil pressure sensor could cause no start problems, noticed while start attemp oil light in dash is not on, does oil pressure sending unit and dash light worked together, if it does could not find sending unit in manual location on engine, please contact me at MDavid1032@aol.com or post a message on the board.
  • 96pathfind96pathfind Member Posts: 22
    I've been experiencing a front end "clunk" on my '96- seems to be coming only from the right side. Reproducible by bouncing the right front end up and down, but I can't pinpoint the origin of the clunk. Sounded like a bum strut, replaced them but noise is still there. Can you clarify for me what you mean by sway bar linkage? You talking about the rubber bushings, or the linkage with the lower arms?
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Check the link connecting the strut to the swaybar. (See pic here.) Also check the bushing on the swaybar itself, where it attaches to the frame. You may need to remove the plastic splash guard to access it. If there is wiggle room in any of these parts you should replace them.

    Both parts are quite easy to replace yourself, if you're good with hand tools and are comfortable working on your truck yourself. The link requires a 17mm box wrench and an allen key to remove it. The swaybar bushing requires a bit more work because you have to place the truck on jackstands, but you need only remove 4 14mm bolts to replace the bushing.
  • chrislrobchrislrob Member Posts: 4
    Hi, all. New to board so forgive my double post. I'm looking at a 1997 fully-loaded Pathy with 4 WD and 76,000 miles for $6900. It is very clean. Checks out on Carfax. Runs well. Pep Boys visual inspection shows nothing major BUT the check engine light is on! And Pep Boys says that could mean ANYTHING and that diagnosis could cost several hundred dollars.

    Thing is, according to Edmunds and other sites, this truck is way below retail market by about $1500-3000. And it's being sold by a Ford dealer.

    I am SO tempted to take the risk but what I really want to know is is what do you think the odds are that it is something serious? I know nothing about its history at all.

    One more thing. The driver's side passenger door is really stiff. The vin on the door matches the vin on the dash. And I can't see anything to suggest that the door was repaired or replaced. There is no paint overspray, mismatch, etc. And the door doesn't creak or grown, it's just stiff. Any idea why?

    I am salivating over this truck, but I'm going to have to buy it as is. Want to decide in the next day or so. After 3 weeks of looking, this is the first nice one I've seen.

    Thanks!
  • tberingetberinge Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a really nice 2000 Pathfinder 4x4. Everything works really well on it except the power windows. All of them roll up and down very slowly, especially in cold weather.

    The reason why I am concerned about this is that I just had to spend 220.00 to fix a broken window motor on my 1990 Maxima. Is this a common problem with Pathfinders? Is there anything I should do about this, or just wait and see if it gets any worse?
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Without a visual inspection I can only hypothesize that it has been in a serious accident that left the frame damaged. Damaged enough to bend the frame which would result in a "stiff" door. If the rear or front end checks out ok then maybe it was hit from the side. Look underneath the car and pay particular attention to pieces or panels not fitting properly. Possibly not only the engine will be troublesome but the body and frame as well.

    Good body work can cover up an acident but will not completely hide one. Look for rust and pieces with paint overspray (underneath car). If the dealer knows about any damage then they would try to get rid of the car as quick as possible. They don't always tell the truth so take their explanations with a grain of salt.

    If you can live with slight damage then you can further negotiate a lower price (that would explain the already reduced price). Have the alignment checked out. Proceed with caution.

    I learned the hard way from a previous Nissan truck purchase. It ran fine but had problems that could not be fixed such as body rust and frame damage (really bad alignment, could not be fixed properly and all other problems stemming from frame damage)

    You can problably negotiate a Lemon Busters inspection if the dealer wants your business.

    Good luck.
  • chrislrobchrislrob Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice, but 2 HOURS after I left the dealer--at 5:30 pm, it was sold! The salesman called and left me a message. I felt like I'd been punched in the stomach! It really did seem perfect except for the above, but I could not figure out why a dealer was selling so cheaply.

    It makes me feel a LOT better to think I avoided a problem as opposed to having walked away from a cream puff. The last thing my Negative Nelly sister said as I reluctantly pulled out of the lot was, "Relax! What do you think they're going to do, sell it tonight?" LOL!

    And I had had such a hard time finding trucks in my price range. Oh, well. I'm sure I'll find one eventually...
  • phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    Had the same problem on my 2001 LE. Dealer fixed it (adjusted regulator?) and it works great now. Try a search of this forum (or the main comment forum) for details.
  • tberingetberinge Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your advice. It's good to know that an adjustment can fix the problem.
    Tim
  • drvicdrvic Member Posts: 1
    I own an 87 Pathfinder with a new problem! After a little fun in the desert using 4x4, I noticed a new noise after putting it back into 2... A rattling/grating noise. Put it back into 4, noise goes away. Took a look under the truck, and it looks like the half-shaft on the passenger side is very loose. I can move it up and down a bit and even in and out a bit. Is it broken, or missing some sort of retainer? I am fairly mechanically adept, just never ran across this one before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Vincent
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