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1. Water in fuel tank - remove with alcohol (disolves water and water and alcohol mix burns in engine).
2. You are triggering the knock sensor, cutting back power to protect the engine. Try higher octane fuel.
I have been a proud owner of PF se for little bit over a year,never have to take to dealer ;unlike my Honda Civic. Recently I start to noticed rattling sound coming from dashboard,which I have heard with my stethoscope. It only does while driving over little bumpy road either high or low speed. I am not sure what to do?I do not want dealar to take my whole dash board a part,and mass things up,but it is going to be very hard for me to live with the noise. Any word of wisdom would be appreciated
The curious part about your issue is that the canister has "gone bad" in such a short period of time. My guess is that it's not actually the canister, but possibly a valve elsewhere the system. The "engine service" code that shows up tends to indicate a general fault with the emissions system, rather than a particular component.
If you had the canister replaced within 12 months/12K miles the dealer should honor its 12-month/12,000 mile parts/labor warranty. Hopefully you still have the receipt.
FYI, the service engine light can be reset by merely turning the ignition key to "ON", then disconnecting the negative battery cable from the battery for a couple of seconds. Remove the key from the ignition, then reconnect the battery cable. (This process merely ensures that any residual electrical energy is dissipated.) Be sure to write down your radio presets before doing this!
An odd warning came from the Nissan Service Tech. I asked what would happen if I continue to drive the truck w/o fixing the issue and he said, "it'd get so clogged up that after a while you wouldn't be able to put gas in it." I told him I've never heard anything like that, wasn't quite sold on the notion. But honestly, I wouldn't know what the consequences would be. ?
Thanks, also, for the advice on the service engine light (and radio presets!). PS: I checked out your website, good stuff. Love the pic of the torqued, white Pathfinder in the dirt; a true SUV.
"EVAP purge code - cleaned purge lines as per tech bulletin - RETEST - code returned - test valve -- internal malfunction - repl valve and retest."
The "valve assy - cont" was listed as $209.35 in the parts list. After looking through my receipts, I realized that when I first purchased this 98 SE, the service engine light came on the next day. They honored that and replaced the carbon filter, valve or whatever they called it. Then almost two years later the light came on, which led to the above info. BUT! First they mention it being a simple fix for 180.00 to replace a valve, including the diagnostic. Not bad, so I went for it. They called me at work and said that that didn't end up being the problem so I'll need to pay an additional 200.00 or so. I asked if I could get a break since they mis-diagnosed the problem and got my committment based on previous info. They said no, and added that it would be more expensive if they had to put the vehicle back together and start over another day...sigh. They got me. So, they did the extra work and now here I am, 14 months later with what another Nissan dealership tells me is the same problem.
Other than this issue, the truck is bulletproof!
Took it to Autozone to plug in their OBDII scanner tool for free. It is a free service from them. They gave me two codes. First code is for a Throttle Position Sensor is intermittent signal. Second, the O2 sensor bank 2 sensor 2. That is the driver side O2 sensor closest to the Catalytic Converter is intermittent.
Thinking that is was a one time faulty code. I disconnected the battery and removed the fuses for the ECM and Service Engine Soon light still exists. I read on the web that the engine needs at 2-3 driving cycles to reset any codes and turn the MIL(Malfunction Indicator Light) off. I will give it a week before I start replacing parts. I will test the battery/charging system next to see if that is the root of sensor malfunctions.
Dealer wants $60 to hook up to their scanner to diagnose even though I told them what the codes were. Are the 02 sensors covered under the TSB or other warranties? Anyone replaced their 02 sensors out of warranty??
How hard is it to replace the Throttle Position Sensor/ oxygen sensor and what is a good price for those parts? Where can I buy the least expensive parts?
Thanks!
I looked at the fuse box and followed the wires from that fuse. On one of the wiring harnesses there was a cover that had pinched a wire. It didn't take long to find and fix. Hopefully your problem is as simple to find. I can't imaging how long it would have taken a dealer to figure this out.
http://www.iequus.com/obd_def.asp
I have two DTC codes, P1135 and P0160.
P1135 is the Intake Valve Timing Control circuit on bank 2 (not throttle sensor in my previous post).
P0160 is O2 circuit No Activity Detected bank 2, sensor 2.
Does anyone know if I can just replace the IVTC sensor myself easily or does the Dealer need to diagnose all IVTC related parts?
dieselone and pathstar1, could you help me with this since you both had previous posts on this issue? How did the dealer fix the IVTC issue? For the O2 sensors, are they covered by the TSB @ 48K miles?
2001 LE w/48K.
Thanks!!
I had the typical "Swaying Pathfinder" problem due to worn bushings on the rear upper and lower rear trailing arms.
My extended warranty (AAA Master Care) only authorized 1.8 labor hours for this repair. Nissan claims that it is a 5.0 hour repair (3.1 hours plus an additional 1.9 because of "rusted bolts"), and of course I had to pay the difference.
Is this reasonable for this repair? Nissan claims that it is impossible to make this repair in 1.8 hours. I don't have access to any of the labor guides. What do they say about this repair?
Any thoughts or suggestions?
How did you(?) reprogram your computer to get rid of the P1135 code? Where can you get the software update and how do you install it?
Actually I tested the SES at Autozone again and the P1135 code did not show up(I previously unplugged the battery to reset and retest). I am afraid DTC P1135 will reactivate when I travel highway speeds again.
Now I am still left with DTC P0160 O2 sensor inactivity code. Will borrow a voltimeter to test O2 sensor and wires next week.
How many miles on your 01 LE? Keep us up to date on your issues.
Thanks!
If for any reason anybody would like to check car computer readings from sensors , check whats wrong with check engine light , read the codes plus other things like resetting check engine light I recommend
to go to web side http://www.digimoto.com/ .This diagnostic tool can save a trip to dealer or repair shop and most important money for
just reading codes or reseting check light .(cost about 40 -80 $ to pay dealer )
I called my dealer and was told that the stereo is not covered under any warranty and that a replacement would be $450 plus labor! Has anyone else had this problem? Can you buy the CD potion of the stereo directly from Bose?
Wonder If it'll do any good if you try cleaning the laser head with a cleaning disc. Or take the fuse out then put back in to "reset" it. Something like these only cost you a few dollars...
Anyways, I've scanned the board reading up on problems with the SES light. Do you guys bring your PF to a dealership to fix SES light problems when it is past warranty coverage, or to and independent shop? I've had two O2 sensors replaced on my 2001 PF SE. First replacement was under warranty, second was not. The second replacement costed $345 from a dealership.
The SES light came on again. I have about 54K on the the PF. I took the PF to an independent shop, where they charge $65 to perform a diagnostic (dealer charges $87). The code the the scanner returned P1145: intake valve timing control position sensor. The tech who performed the diagnostic said that the sensor is not responding. The shop gave an estimate of $212 to replace the sensor. That's on top of the $65 to diagnosis. The dealership wants $250 for the same repair plus an $87 fee for diagnostic. Should I go with the independent shop?
I heard and read that it is a easy sensor to replace. I have the Hayes repair manual and it tells you how to test and replace the IVTC sensor and solenoid.
I had the p1135 error which is the same IVTC sensor but on the other bank of the engine. I did not notice any degradation in engine performance so I disconnected the battery(reset the computer) and that SES P1135 error code is gone. That is not to say it won't come up again when the conditions are right. Previous post mentioned software upgrade solves IVTC SESs. I will replace it myself when it comes up again.
Scan the codes at Autozone for free after you reset the computer. Copy them down and look them up on the web. Autozones here refuse to clear the DTCs for me, says it is illegal. I still have the dreaded P0160 DTC O2 sensor inactive (post-converter) SES. I will wait couple weeks on this one cause it will not hurt anything if I do.
Didn't believe IVTC and O2 sensors where so problematic until I finally experienced it. Should be a "out of warranty" coverage TSBs on these issues. Unfortunately, I don't see any. But, still love my pathy and it is otherwise bulletproof (knock on wood).
Has anyone else noticed this and if so were you able to get it fixed?
60-80 MPH in fourth gear gives you high cylinder pressure, which translates to a requirement for a good spark. Lack of a good spark will cause a miss, which would show up as a slight hesitation with an automatic.
I don't recall you posting the mileage on the vehicle, but it wouldn't hurt to pull a sparkplug and have a look at it. It may just be old plugs.
What led to SES light coming on:
1) drove on hot Texas I-10 freeway for about 4 hours.
2) filled up w/quarter of tank of 89 octane from small rural gas station.
3) hard accelerated passed a semi on freeway
4) five minutes later the SES light came on.
5) Autozone pulled DTC P1135 (IVTC circuit) and P0160 (O2 sensor).
What I did:
1) reset the codes (unplugged neg. battery term.), SES light still present.
2) retested at Autozone and only DTC P0160 came up. Also got my battery quickly tested using voltimeter(main tester equip. was down) and it was OK(didn't trust them). DTC P1135 no longer present.
3) continued driving for about a week and close to quarter of gas tank left.
4) decided to look at my battery closer and opened the maintenace fill holes. noticed 3 out of 5 was low in water. filled them with water.
5) next day the SES light was off.
6) SES light no longer active after a week since it came on.
No cost invloved except for time and frustration. Problem could of been with poor fuel quality (used it up) and/or low battery (filled up).
Leads me to believe that it may be a ECM software programming issue in the 01 pathies. Moral of the story: Test, reset, retest, check your battery, fill with quality gas, and then give it some time before needlessly spending on repairs. I will post an update in couple months or if the SES light comes back.
Hope that saves some heartache out there. Here is the OBDII web resource I used:
http://64.4.22.250/cgi-bin/linkrd?_lang=EN&lah=ba0691d067094c- - - 8607808be27e442f2e&lat=1091462943&hm___action=http%3a%2f%- - - 2fwww%2eautotap%2ecom
thanks.
cthogan@excite.com
Thanks
Example from a 96 Pathfinder:
I advise that if youre replacing the struts, also replace the upper mounts (part 13) and the strut bearings (part 11). You can get pretty good prices on OEM parts at aaanissanparts or nissanparts.cc.
http://members.cox.net/mainpages/index.htm
The site is pretty detailed on that topic. All pathies have the front end sag on the drivers side. Should be about 1/4 - 1/2 " sag that Nissan says is w/in factory specs. Probably due to engine and gas tank placement balance or "Off" balance.
Good Luck.
Replaced them with Goodyear Fortera HL edition in higher profile P255/70/16. No alignment needed. Raises the pathy 1". Rides just as comfortable. Little to no road noise from tires on concrete and none on asphalt. Great grip in snow, rain, and dry pavement. Not to mention the awesome aggressive sidewall appearence. Cornering, braking, and acceleration performance very slightly degraded due to larger profile tire(moot point in OEM size 255/65/16). Normal tire wear after 10K miles on them.
LTXs are good tires also. Did your dealer put your pathy on alignment machine before he told you it was normal?
Buy a used master window switch from a junk yard. They are a lot cheaper. Call for new and used prices. Easy to swap out.
A/C. Check the condition of your evaporator core. It is under the glove box dash area if I am correct(black box). It is problably dirty and clogged by debris such as leaves. Do you park under trees alot(you shouldn't, leaves and debris fall on AC intake and clogs the system)? Use compressed air to clean out your evap. core and the drain tube that goes to the bottom of your truck. It maybe the drain tube that is clogged and causing water to leak into the cabin.
Your AC will perform better after this clean out.
Good luck.
It only goes back to 1996. If 1996 is not a major redesign then it could be very similar to 1995.
Cause: Worn bushings on the rear suspension links (aka control arms)
Fix: Replace control arm bushings (or the arms themselves)
Issue: Timing Belt Replacement Interval is 105,000 miles. Only 9,000 miles to go before you're due!
Other than the steering wheel "shimmy" you mentioned (caused by improper tire balacing), I can't think of anything else that's either relatively common or often misdiagnosed.