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Comments
They are harsh and rude. Online reviews about them are very true.
Pls be careful on ...
1)
Our price = Negotiated amount + tax
They agree to it, but they do it this way..
MSRP + tax - negotiated discount.
This way you pay more.
---
2)
They sneak in VIN etching fee.
They lie that this saves on insurance. But, truth it only saves you on Comprehensive insurace
(thats just few dollars)
3)
After hours of negotiation, you agree on the price. When you goto the Finance Mgr,
they show you a different pricing documentwhere they can easily sneak in a pricing component.
4)
Finance mgr would easily lie to you that you have to buy Service agreement + Loan insurance etc.
Hyundai financing does not mandate above purchases.
5)
See the car in day light before you buy. I trusted them i found next day morning that it had a
giant scratch
6)
Visit dealership post lunch. Assume the process will take 5 hours.
7)
Make sure you get the sticker from the car. Make sure you double check the accessories are installed.
8)
Santa FE has vent problems for few years now. rear vents throw cold air for about 20 mints in Winter
and hot air in Summer.
9)
Don't buy Hyundai. Spending few thousand dollars more on Toyota or Honda are worth the quality of the
product.
This includes my rebates and incentives, no trade in.
Is this worth it? I was hoping to bring him down to 20,500 he said no way, 21k is a great deal?
MSRP is around 29 k and with all the discounts total is 27,379.
Is this a fair deal?
Also, what was the MSRP? dealer discount and OTD price?
Thank you for your comment.
http://www.hyundaiusa.com/financial-tools/savings-matching.aspx
sign up free account on this web site:
https://www.motozuma.com
I bought a Santa Fe from a dealership in San Jose, CA. This program is real. Just put $500 into your motozuma account and hyundai will give you $500 (total $1000) for downpayment when purchase new vehicle.
They don't have SE left but there are still GLS and limited. Negotiated the price on email first. It was very simple - they offered 26K OTD with some nonsense package. I told them my price and they got back to me in a day with my price.
I did finance with them at 1.9% (so this price includes that 1000 rebate)
No additional option except for floor mat, cargo stuff and the glass are tinted.
I hope the rest of my service and experiences go just as well.
I hope you meant to say 23,000 OTD.
Are you sure it is SE model with v6 engine? According to Hyundai web site, santa fe SE has MSRP 27,000 without any accessories. It is incredible the dealer gave almost $6000 discount on this suv. Could they sell at a loss?
I was looking at the Rav4 and honda CRV. Local dealers practically want to sell right at MSRP.
Does your limited santa fe have 2.4L or 3.5L V6? Does it come with any additional package?
I don't know which state you're at; and state sale tax varies. What is you OTD?
I read in certain states, people has to pay $400 for dealer doc fee. But they have lower tax rate. In CA, dealer preparation fee is only $55. Yet sale tax is 9%.
Do you recall the msrp of your santa fe limited?
Good Luck,MJGirard
The dealer in houston - ron carter - had number of them and generally was haggle free as we settle the price on email in one/two days.
6000 discount from MSRP includes some sort of financing cash back to dealer from hyundai and probably some other cash back. As far as Texas go, 23K OTD price is not that great for SE V6. Literally I spent may be 1 -2 hours emailing back and forth over and no other effort was needed. If you are in Texas and picking up from Houston is an option, I feel you can get a better deal with more effort
I tried again in another dealer; they said they had to think about it. At the end, they refused.
So $23,000 OTD is an amazing deal!
(can you include the msrp, "price", and out the door total price please)
(also if you could tell me what the fees, taxes, title, license, or any rebates you got were)
My Grandpa just got hit by a drunk driver and his 6 month old car got totaled so I am trying to do the research for him.
I would greatly appreciate any help I can get because so far the dealers won't budge much and I really dislike all the sneaky secrecy there seems to be when trying to buy a car.
I got a number from a dealer that basically was an insult - but I will give them the benefit of the doubt considering they probably think I haven't a clue. Nice way for them to tell me to leave.
I would like to check out this Zag though...
Thanks in advance!
Good luck,
MJGirard
We priced out the 3.5L FWD initially.
Initial knock down from sticker price was $500
Cash incentive took another $4500 off
Compared pricing at another dealership and played the two off each other took us down to 31.5k from the sticker & tax of 38.9
One dealership tried to give us nonsense about the additional cost of delivering the vehicle, which is actually built into the price if, and wouldn't drop a security fee of $450 - which pays out $4000 if the vehicle is stolen in the first four years. They lost our business.
Came back to the first dealership, and said number two had beat their offer by 3%. They matched the cut and upgraded to an AWD instead of FWD for $1000 including taxes (works out to $800 for the AWD and $200 in taxes), because the AWD was on their lot and they would have to ship in the FWD. So it was roughly an $8400 savings off sticker & taxes. And somehow the bank doesn't include that as increased equity on an asset:P
The owner of Focus Hyundai also offered to buy the vehicle back in two years for 31.5k on a trade in.
I've been searching for a Santa Fe Limited trim with the V6 for a few months now and I am completely shocked at 1. how high the prices are 2. dealer attitudes that the car should be sold at MSRP.
Is there a reason why a hyundai these days is commanding up to $500/mo when one could go for a Lexus or BMW if we're talking about that kind of money? I'd like your thoughts because I'm at a loss here... I got a much better and more loaded vehicle (more expensive brand too) for a lot less - and the MSRP of this vehicle was more than that of this one.
Plus - is there a way to back-calculate the "selling price" if you have the residual amount and percentage? And would the Money Factor be important on a Santa Fe?
Has anyone here managed to get the dealer to contribute to the tax and tags/title? I seem to be seeing the trend of them worming this out to throw it back in later...
What about "inception" fees? That was a phrase I caught the other day and thought I saw some smoke
Your thoughts would be much appreciated!!!!
A very frustrated buyer...
Well, i had bought a Santa FE AWD SE v6 last year. It was about 2k below truecar.com price (Ex: MSRP=27k, truecar = 25k, i bought it for 23k)
This year i traded it in for an Accord. My experience was the same on pricing and buying conditions.
Dealer attitudes vary due to time of the year, experience, inventory etc.
BTW, my hyundai dealer (Brad Benson Hyundai, NJ) came up with $33k for my Santa FE (just to tell you how they play).
I think Santa FE LTD AWD should come up for 24k + ttl.
If you have to pay more,...you are right...go for RAV4 or something else.
Santa FE is good, except for mpg (unless you want to drive at 60mph to get 27mpg), paint quality and lesser resale value.
I had posted Santa FE pros/cons, if you can find it.
Hyundai adds lot of accessories and warranty for a given price (as they want to beat competition) and also give big $ incentives for dealer to sell their cars.
I hope this helps.
Are you being serious? A loaded AWD SF comes in around $33K while the entry FWD Lexus RX starts at $39K. Add AWD & navi to the RX and you're at $49K.
As for Hyundai's commanding $500/month .. Hyundai has several vehicles that cost more than the SF, including the starts-at-$59K Equus. Cars are simply more expensive nowadays (though the automakers would argue you get a lot for your money).
If you want a lower payment and your dealer is unwilling to come down in price, shop a different dealer, shop a less expensive trim, shop a less expensive vehicle, or increase your down payment.
Has anyone here managed to get the dealer to contribute to the tax and tags/title?
Dealers cannot negotiate government-mandated fees. No one can; that would be illegal. I suggest that instead of focusing on that you work on an "out the door" price that includes everything.
There are threads around here about buying new cars; I suggest you browse those for info on common fees and which are considered legit.
I think Santa FE LTD AWD should come up for 24k + ttl.
If you have to pay more,...you are right...go for RAV4 or something else
---its actually coming to 29ish and 28 seems to be the absolute min. That's crazy, right?
Hyundai adds lot of accessories and warranty for a given price (as they want to beat competition) and also give big $ incentives for dealer to sell their cars.
---The warranty becomes irrelevant on a lease (I would think) esp. for someone who really takes care of the vehicle, right?
How much do the $ incentives come out to be on average? are 2k kickbacks common or are they more like 5k?
This year i traded it in for an Accord. My experience was the same on pricing and buying conditions.
Just out of curiousity - you traded in after just 1 year - should that normally net u more bargaining power or is that something dealers run from? I had a work colleague that traded in her acura a year before the term ended and she said she took a hit.
Are you being serious? A loaded AWD SF comes in around $33K while the entry FWD Lexus RX starts at $39K. Add AWD & navi to the RX and you're at $49K.
---I should have clarified I was not comparing the lexus RX with the HySF! I meant at that price point one can find traditionally "better" or more "sought after" brands such as lexus - not the same class of car and definitely not the lexus SUV's for sure.
As for Hyundai's commanding $500/month .. Hyundai has several vehicles that cost more than the SF, including the starts-at-$59K Equus. Cars are simply more expensive nowadays (though the automakers would argue you get a lot for your money).
-----That's precisely what does not make sense. Our economy (heck, economies the world over) are in the loo. Why do car dealers think those prices will be acceptable? I'd expect prices to fall as competition over the fewer $ circulating in the economy are being sought.
If you want a lower payment and your dealer is unwilling to come down in price, shop a different dealer, shop a less expensive trim, shop a less expensive vehicle, or increase your down payment.
-----tried all that. The variance is so minimal it actually doesn't warrant compromising on the trim. I'll be checking out other comparable vehicles too. I've seen on this forum and elsewhere the comment that people should never give the dealers their magic number (this is the payment I want to be at). In a lease scenario where the buyer is not going to retain the vehicle at lease end - shouldn't the buyer (after haggling over the price) divulge the magic number and let the dealer work around it to make it happen?
phone/email quotes are MSRP in many places.
yes, dealers get more than 2k incentives for hyundais.
good/bad ecomony......dealers always make money because it is manufacturer who shell out dealer incentives and low interest rates to sell cars.
i traded in my SF in Kansas where SUVs are more in demand and cars are not as much.
also, a dealer is always more keen in selling his car. So, trade-ins are always welcome.
i didn't took a hit actually. i had bought SF for 23k. and traded in for 22k.
many dealers try to leverage from the fact that customers are not aware of real prices/incentives.
BTW, he has now put my 2011 SF for sale at 27k (but truecar price for NEW is 25k !!). See, what i mean? If you were to bargain for it without knowing real prices, wont you have thought "may be the dealer will sell it for 26k".
This is how dealers deal!!
-----
america (with respect) works on technical, smart and authentic looking data/information manipulation.
Ex: Kelly book prices are used for new/used cars. People think they are looking at legitimate information and buy their cars.
Same for truecar.com.
In 2008, i almost sold off my 2001 Accord for 4k in NJ based on KBB price.
I didn't eventually sell. Later, in 2010, i saw the KBB price for same car for more mileage was 5k.
KBB manipulated the prices to cushion the falling prices for new/used cars.
In Kansas, dealers called me back for 2012 Accord EXL 4cyl prices and said "If someone else sells you for 23k, go for it".
Eventually, i bought it for 23k and in 2010 i had bought Accord EXL 6cyl in New Hampshire for 24k! (i understand that time, location, incentives vary a bit).....but not this much.
try to visit a dealer and see if you can get SF for 23k (i mean, AWD v6 SE).
Best way to buy is be ready to walk out and keep looking at buying prices in edmunds.
I did all my research (using of course the sources you mentioned). (if they are not legitimate, what should I use?)
I not only checked the trade in (and retail) value of my current wheels on KBB but also truecar and probably edmunds. Got a range (high to low) based on impeccable-ok (just to be fair). 1 dealer told me only to look at the trade in value. I didnt like that b/c it was only giving me 1k or so above my lease buyout. Similar vehicles are selling for over 20K. The dealers I went to today, with all this info, said that they couldnt really do much. 1 said that, the other said if i trade in my car they will knock of $10 off the monthly payment. What an insult. The equity in it is AT LEAST 5K by my estimates and knowledge of the vehicle and its limited supply and obscene demand (not to mention the fantastic like new condition it is in). I am being conservative in my estimates too - again just to be fair.
Any suggestions on what else I could use to get more for my trade in? It sounds like they all want to pocket the equity and not give me anything for it.
I am looking specifically at the Limited V6 - is 24k still realistic? MSRP tends to hover around 30k
2012 Santa Fe SE with Nav/Premium package, sticker $32600, invoice $31093
Negotiated sales price of $29,600 plus additional Hyundai $500 customer cash and $500 HMF finance bonus . . . . Net $28,600 + TTL
I do not recall what kind of accent he had. After he yelled at me, I said to his face that I would file a complaint with Hyundai. Somehow he appeared to be excited and handed me his business card. He’s got an Italian last name. And the card says “Finance Manager”.
This “manager” knows the invoice prices and incentive from Hyundai. After all, he had the final say on selling price ‘cause the Asian sales rep kept going to his office whenever I offered my price. There were at least a dozen people inside the dealership, including some other potential car buyers. No one else said anything. It is as if this kind of yelling happens everyday.
Whenever I see cars license plates that have “Cammisa ”, I KNOW these drivers overpaid on their vehicles ‘cause they bought from Cammisa.
I did email a complaint to Hyundai USA and Hyundai corp. in Korea. I heard nothing from either company. I don’t think I will buy a Hyundai ever again.
I bought a 2011 Santa Fe SE FWD with premium package last year. msrp was $30,490. 2012 Santa Fe SE costs over $2k more at msrp.
also here in CA, car dealerships take the selling price, add up all the fees and tax, and then subtract the rebate or bonus cash. This means buyers will have to pay tax on the cash rebate.
I only learned this when I bought our first car.
With respect to the GPS, the premium package is the only way to get the sunroof and backup camera, two things my spouse really wanted. Perhaps things have gotten better, but one thing the built-in NAV has going for it is that it (at least to me) is more convenient and easier to use than a portable unit. I have also had problems with portable units taking a very long time to lock in to the GPS satellites, not to mention the small screens are harder to see and navigate. I am not sure what you mean by "more usable." To each his own-- hardly seems like the sort of thing to ask "Who on earth. . . ." about.
My Magellan would always take 30-90 seconds to get a satellite lock but wouldn't get one at all if I was, say, in an underground parking garage (*cough* Millennium Park Chicago *cough*). The in-dash units don't have that issue.
To me, in-dash units have just one flaw: Updates. They're generally expensive and don't come out that often. Going forward, though, that problem should be resolved as cars gain internet access.
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