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Comments
Benefits (to a manual):
1) You lean manual on a car that does not cost much. I learned on a Hindustani Ambassador (same as a Morris Oxford). If I remember correctly it had a whopping 36hp diesel. It lasted my grandfather 40 years before he sold it for more than he paid. The Mustang GT was the worst manual I had. The clutch was heavy and unforgiving. The 3000GT was the best.
2) You learn to pay attention to your driving.
3) So lets say you get really good with a manual you may get to 60mph in 9sec in stead of 9.5sec in the ES. But dont kid youself here most people driving a manual will lose to an auto.
4) IF you autocross or track your car a manual is way more fun. I suspect that 1/10000 of Protege owners do this.
5) 1mpg in fuel economy.
6) Costs less by $500-800 initially.
I understand getting a manual in a car like a Z06 or an M3 but do you really want one in a 130hp daily driver? Some do and some do not. I would never get a manual in a daily driver again. It was really fun when I was 15 years old, I liked it when I was 25, and now that I'm well north of 30....I'll just stick with manuals in sports cars that are weekend drivers.
Meade
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/roadtests/spin/48985/article.html
Not the best of the available true manumatics, but certainly the least expensive.
First of all, speak for yourself. Second of all, it depends on what kind of car you are talking about. On some models, the autos are not that much slower, while on others it makes a huge difference.
-Vocus
I disagree, it has been well documented. The Mazda Protege's rate of deprecation falls into the middle of the econo car pack. Several do better and several do worse. Overall, all cars depreciate the fastest in year one and two of ownership. You traded your 2001 waaaay to soon to be financially prudent. Furthermore, with all the swirl marks and scratches on your Black Mica paint, your 2001 PRO-ES was not the pristine used car; most folks would expect to find on a resale lot. Lastly, your 2001 Protege was pretty thick on miles, right?
Here is how I look at my future situation. My 60 month old, well cared for, loaded 2000 PRO-ES will prolly sell for $4,250 private sale and a like Honda Civic EX should sell for $6,750. However, I paid at least $2750 less for my car new. Pretty reasonable? However, if you compare a 2 year old used Civic to a 2 year old Protege, deprecation advantage Civic; BIG TIME.
-Love Train
Req. Con. = The Pro may see this in 15 years, unless it gets a CVT much sooner.
Autos are typically geared a bit taller than manuals for a given car to make up some for the torque converter loss. That, plus lock-up tc's make for comparable, as EPA rated, fuel efficiency, but at the expense of off the line thrust and control. Besides, the tc won't lock up until you're cruising, so around town/accelerating you still lose efficiency over the manual. It has been my experience that the manual nets you a few mpg over the auto. Maybe Meade has a heavier foot than his pal. ;-)
Hopefully enthusiast oriented cars will get an option of a true manumatic even when the CVTs take over.
I had a cracked windshield when I traded the car as well, and the big scratch on the front of it. They took it anyway, and still gave me that much for it. I was surprised.
With the 1999 DX, it had 37,364 on it when traded, and they offered $7500. That was the KBB price for like equipped car, add power sunroof (mine was aftermarket installed, as you all know). That's still kind of a lot, and the DX was traded at the 2 year point.
Anybody read Cory Farley's article in the latest issue of Autoweek? He and I agree on this - it may be true that, for many people, they grow tired of rowing their own gears on a daily basis, or get tired of a stiff suspension for a daily driver, but not I - and I can't imagine it happening anytime soon.
Each person is his or her own being, and I guess I'm just atypical in this respect. I'm north of 30, but not by much. Still, I can't see wanting to give up my manual, or some form close to it like a manumatic, any time soon. Same goes for trading in handling for a cushy ride.
Paul, who you trying to kid, lol? I saw your many posts at SMART SHOPPER: "Real-World Trade-In Values". You know darn well that Kelly's Blue Book has ZERO to due with the auction/resale value of any used car. You tried to get Bill and Terry to admit you got a good deal on your VeeDub. They both told you in different posts, that you received an over-allowance on your Protege. Bottom line: You may have purchased the cars YOU wanted, when YOU wanted them, nonetheless you are far from an astute proselyte of car buying knowledge. A Mazda Protege will resale for what the market will bring. Historically, the resale/residual vales for a Protege runs in the middle of the econo car pact.
-old head
ES PREMIUM PACKAGE, SPORT MODE 4-SPD AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION W/OVERDRIVE, CARGO NET, PERIMETER SHOCK SENSOR ALARM, WHEEL LOCKS.
No rebates all they had ws O% for 24months.
I thought it would hold more, but I guess not.
THINK about it. Do you expect a dealer to give you much more? Used cars sales aren't the greatest when every manufacturer and their grandmothers are offering 0% financing (at least they were when you were trading in). Your car also had high mileage, scratches, a broken windshield, and lots of options (these kill your resale value because you won't get nearly as much for them as you paid). Who in their right mind would buy your well used Protege for the same price (or more because of financing) as a brand new one with less options?
And right now, there is a dealer called Crystal in Md. with the same exact car I had for sale. It has 13,500 miles, and is up for $14,900.
The only point I was making is that once you don't use the left foot for clutch work, it is always faster to use your left foot to activate the brakes because there is a smaller lag time than there is in sliding the right foot over. It has nothing to do with the output of the engine or how fast the automatic gear changes are. It only has to do with cutting the time of wanting the brakes activated to actually getting them activated to the smallest possible amount of time. Heel and toe is only used because you have three pedals and only two feet. Hey, maybe I'm looking at this all wrong, all we really need is a third foot...or just two pedals. Quick, someone call Detroit or Darwin!
Heck, even better yet, you could do it every single time you brake by tranfering the brake pedal from the left to the right foot before you need to disengage the clutch - with no loss of braking speed on any stop. The two (manuals and left foot braking) aren't really mutually exclusive. Hopefully you aren't doing too many "panic" stops where that faction of a second might matter, though, unlike the F1 boys (there's your F1 tie in, nothing to do with engine output or how fast their semi-autos shift).
Please don't call Detroit for the clutchless manual. They'll just botch it up. It will be here soon enough without their "help"
TN the weekend of the picnic. I didn't want to influence your date
selection for MAPP 3, because of my uncertain job situation. I was
afraid if I told you a particular weekend was better than another, I
might be wrong as things at Cracker Barrel moved forward. Sooo, I
left it to chance? My heart really hurts because, I will be away that
weekend. I'm really sad. Nevertheless, I'm sure the weather will be
awesome, because the first two were a little cold and wet! I will be
with you guys in spirit. Perhaps, you can e-mail me your cell phone
number and I can call you "mad men and ladies" and check on the
festivities?
-Love Train
AKA Larry(prox2)
Good articles there.
Basically, you turn your foot so that your toe is on the brake and your heel is able to blip the throttle in a turn.
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/45792/article.html
http://alg.com/>
http://12.107.25.158/muni/purisima.asp
Here is how they rate:
24 months-
2001 Honda Civic ES retains 61% of it's value.
2001 Volks Jetta GLS retains 61% of it's value.
2001 Toyota ECHO retains 56% of it's value.
2001 Nissan Sentra SE retains 55% of it's value.
2001 Saturn SL2 retains 55% of it's value.
2001 Toyota Corolla LE retains 54% of it's value.
2001 Ford Focus ZTS retains 54% of it's value.
2001 Mazda Protege ES retains 53% of it's value.
2001 Subaru Impreza AWD retains 52% of it's value.
2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS retains 45% of it's value.
2001 Chevy Cavalier LS retains 44% of it's value.
2001 Suzuki Esteem GLX+ retains 43% of it's value.
2001 Daewoo Nubira CDX retains 43% of it's value.
2001 Dodge Neon ES retains 40% of it's value.
2001 KIA Spectra GSX retains 37% of it's value.
48 months-
2001 Honda Civic ES retains 46% of it's value.
2001 Volks Jetta GLS retains 46% of it's value.
2001 Nissan Sentra SE retains 41% of it's value.
2001 Toyota Corolla LE retains 41% of it's value.
2001 Toyota ECHO retains 39% of it's value.
2001 Saturn SL2 retains 39% of it's value.
2001 Mazda Protege ES retains 38% of it's value.
2001 Ford Focus ZTS retains 38% of it's value.
2001 Subaru Impreza AWD retains 38% of it's value.
2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS retains 30% of it's value.
2001 Chevy Cavalier LS retains 32% of it's value.
2001 Suzuki Esteem GLX+ retains 30% of it's value.
2001 Daewoo Nubira CDX retains 29% of it's value.
2001 Dodge Neon ES retains 28% of it's value.
2001 KIA Spectra GSX retains 25% of it's value.
60 months-
2001 Honda Civic ES retains 41% of it's value.
2001 Volks Jetta GLS retains 40% of it's value.
2001 Toyota Corolla LE retains 36% of it's value.
2001 Nissan Sentra SE retains 35% of it's value.
2001 Toyota ECHO retains 33% of it's value.
2001 Saturn SL2 retains 33% of it's value.
2001 Mazda Protege ES retains 32% of it's value.
2001 Ford Focus ZTS retains 32% of it's value.
2001 Subaru Impreza AWD retains 32% of it's value.
2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS retains 24% of it's value.
2001 Chevy Cavalier LS retains 27% of it's value.
2001 Suzuki Esteem GLX+ retains 26% of it's value.
2001 Daewoo Nubira CDX retains %24 of it's value.
2001 Dodge Neon ES retains 24% of it's value.
2001 KIA Spectra GSX retains 20% of it's value.
Pretty interesting?
-Love Train
Hell, if i can train my left foot to push a clutch pedal down accurately to manipulate the wheel spin, why not a brake pedal?
But after it warms up viz. the heater starts blowing hot air on my foot, the car runs fine.
But till then,...it's a dog... with the engine sounding horrible, resonating through the passenger cabin when u press the gas pedal to climb up the slightest of slopes....unwilling to rev.....
also since i have ur attention, i remember u once mentioning that the 99 ES has a ignition coil problem. What exactly did u mean?
Automotive Lease Guide, is a privately held company in Santa Barbara, California. ALG has been the benchmark for residual values in the United States and Canada for over 35 years and it's objective is to provide residual values to the Automotive Industry. Seminole_kev I'm sure you can e-mail them with any questions you might have. I guess, I get a little hissed off when folks without the correct info make off the cuff statements of fiction and try to pass them as fact because they sit behind a monitor screen in an anonymous stupor. As you can see the 2001 Mazda Protege is projected to have average depreciation/residual value.
-love train
I am just glad I am at the top of that value equation now though.
Hope to see you there.
The dealers here are selling lease returned LX Pros for near MSRP...what are they thinking?