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Mazda Protegé

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  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    67 in a 35??? That is too funny. Don't feel bad, I got pulled over for doing 85 in a 55 one time in the Protege ES. Now I always check for those suckers in my rearview mirror before taking off quickly. :)

    Good luck with it though. Definitely take it to court, tell them you were rushing home because your wife called and said the baby was sick or something, and you will more than likely get off with only a fine. :)
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    Which costs more, the $12,000 car or the $15,000 car? Sounds simple, but as we all know, the purchase price isn't all that's involved in the true cost of a vehicle. Check out the article and new tool at Edmunds.com:


    True Cost to Own (TCO): Revealing the Hidden Costs of Car Ownership


    http://www.edmunds.com/advice/specialreports/articles/59897/article.html


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  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Edmund's TCO, my Jetta will cost $3830 more to own than my Protege did. Does that include speeding tickets? :)
  • ajewelajewel Member Posts: 2
    Hi all! Thanks for all your inputs and advice about which model was better. I drove both of them and I went with the 02 Lx instead of the Es. The reason? The Es has ugly [non-permissible content removed] "cloth" seats that I could not live with. Just that one thing changed my mind about the Es. LOL (I am serious)
    The Lx came with some of the Es equipment except for the fog lights! It has a moonroof, deflector, alloys, and I'm getting the spoiler put on this morning! I felt more comfortable driving the Lx than Es also. Am very happy! Paid $1450 under invoice too. FYI: no alarm either, I will have it tinted and a alarm put in this weekend by an outside source.......Talk to ya'll later!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I got out of it.

    :D

    Meade
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Member Posts: 1,583
    always good to have relatives up in the ranks eh? :D
  • rbrooks3rbrooks3 Member Posts: 174
    First let me set the record straight and clear. depressing the clutch on my car DOES disengage the system as it should. I hope I have always made that clear. Depressing the brake also disengages the system as it should.

    The only issue I have is whether the system should respond to inputs of "resume" and/or "set" if the car is in NEUTRAL. By mistake I hit the "resume" button in neutral and the rpms shot up and did not start until I hit the brake and clutch. Since then, I tried doing the following: drive to say 55, shift to neutral, THEN turn the system on and hit "set". My result is the engine rpms fly up as the car tries to maintain speed in neutral, which of course it cannot. I have also done the same thing but had the system on before I shifted to neutral. Same result, the car tries to sustain speed in neutral which it cannot do.

    Mazda NA Cust. Serv. said AFTER speaking to the engnineering department that this is not normal. They said the "failsafe" should not respond to any input to increase rpms while the car is in neutral.

    NOW THE UPDATE:

    The dealer called me last night and said he drove another '02 ES and the car did the same thing as mine did. He said he called Mazda tech and yelled at them for telling me there was a problem when this is normal.

    SO, I called Mazda NA myself again to get the final word on who was correct. They said they were specifically told by engineering that what my car does is not correct. BUT they also said nowhere in their question to engineering or in the response from engineering did anyone specifically state whether this was for a 5 speed or automatic car. So, now they are making a very specific question to engineering about whether it is normal for a car with a 5 speed (like mine) to do what my car does. They said they'd have an answer for me today.

    I'm sorry if all this is boring for you guys. I'll post the final answer when they call me back. Certainly no one should intentionally try to set cruise control in neutral, it's just plain stupid. I did it first by mistake and it was stupid on my part.

    My only concern is this: on the '02 model the "on/off" switch or "main" as it's labeled is on the steering column. You can't see it while driving and there is no way to tell if it's on or not. The control buttons for "set", "resume" and "cancel" are like many Fords (sorry), right on the wheel. If I use the system but don't turn the power off and I accidentally hit the "set" or "resume" button, the car would redline itself or worse. Hitting the buttons accidentally would not be that hard since they are right there. I would think that this would be a problem Mazda would forsee and avoid. My friend tried this with his 5 speed Hyundai in neutral and the system refused to do anything.
  • rbrooks3rbrooks3 Member Posts: 174
    By the way, I am very happy with the efforts of Mazda NA and my dealer to solve this problem. Everyone on both sides has been polite and helpful. And, I still love the car.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    eagerly awaiting your favorable response....
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    One thing about the Protege's cruise is that the "cruise" indicator light doesn't come on until you actually set the system at desired speed. I thought it would come on as soon as you switch the cruise on, because it does in my car. And maybe, Ron, you shouldn't leave the switch on if you think you are going to hit it accidently.

    However, it doesn't make sense that the cruise would try to set itself while the car's in neutral. I bet the automatic would do the same thing. It makes no sense though, it's just poor engineering if that's true. And also, as you found out, it's not safe either.
  • sfratsfrat Member Posts: 208
    Hey all, I'm back. I've been very busy at work, and haven't posted in ages. My 01 ES 5spd has been great, just passed 12k miles.

    Ron, your problem sound very strange, and its not boring me at all. I'm interested to find out the final verdict. I've pressed the clutch to see if would disengage the CC on my car, and it did. But I never put in neutral and set it. Granted, its not something you would really do, but I would think that the car could sense what gear its in. Maybe not, I guess.

    Also, Chikoo has been asking, and it sort of puzzles me, oftentimes an Auto with cruise will downshift on a hill. Obviously in a 5spd it cant' control the gears, so if you came to a steep hill, you might have a problem?
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Well on my way to work this morning, after a killer snow/ice storm last night (making the roads akin to ice rinks), I hit a concrete curb going about 10 km/h. Now, my steering wheel starts to shake at 30 km/h and at 50 km/h (30 mph) it really vibrates my arms.

    So angry!!!!!!!

    Sigh...my question now is should I go to the dealer to get it looked at or is a place like Midas ok?
    I assume there's no way they're doing it under warranty :(

    Thanks.
  • rbrooks3rbrooks3 Member Posts: 174
    Since it's possible you may have a bearing problem, I would avoid Midas. As good repair shop should be able to check it out. On the mminor side you could just have an alignment problem or have lost a wheel weight. On the bad side, a bearing. A good shop should remove the wheel and make sure it's balanced first and then check for free play in the bearing and then verify the alignment. I suppose Midas could do all that, but the ones here are not that good.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    "Edmund's TCO, my Jetta will cost $3830 more to own than my Protege did."

    Edmunds's TCO is flawed for me. I pay no financing charges as I'm sure there are other people here who don't either. So compared with me, your Jetta will cost A LOT more than $3830 to own than my Protege. What was your Jetta financed at?
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Only reason I suggest Midas is that my Uncle works for them and I trust him.
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Member Posts: 348
    Mike, sorry to hear about that. You really gotta stop banging into curbs. I don't have any more hubcaps left. In all seriousness, it sounds like you've damaged and bent the tie rods and possibly the front axel as well.

    You should not be driving the car and distance at all. Take it to a repair center immediately.

    Meade,

    Are you here? I have a question for you.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Thanks for the advice....but Midas or Dealership? I'm really looking at cost here.
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    Hmm. I think I will try to engage my cruise while in neutral, to see what it does if I ever accidentally hit the set button (I always leave cruise on - may not any more if my car will rev while in neutral). I will have my feet ready to press clutch and brake so I don't over-rev.

    If you are going up a hill too steep for the current gear to keep the speed constant with the cruise set in a manual, you will loose speed until you intervene. I have found that, in general, unless you are in the wrong gear to begin with, my Pro has enough power to keep its speed up hill without downshifting. YMMV
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    If cost is your concern, Midas. I've known some good Midas folks. If you get a good Midas, I don't foresee any issues, IMO.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Member Posts: 1,009
    Dang! That totally sucks!
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Dealer tells me:
    $76/hour labour
    $80 alignment
    $??? = unknown
    :(
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Member Posts: 348
    For cost, definately Midas.

    For quality of work and parts, definately the dealer.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    I've decided on the dealer...since my car is so new, I want it done with their expertise and part source.
    I'll keep you all updated.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    You might be able to claim that on your insurance. Tell them you lost control of the car due to road conditions, and they might pick up the bill if the repairs do cost too much.

    And if I were you, I would take the car to the dealer just to be safe.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    You got out of the ticket? I know that's right! :) Cool. Well with mine, the cop wrote I was going 66 instead of the 85 I was going, so that was cool of him. I didn't go to court though, although I should have. Now I have 3 pts. on my license. :(
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    Oops. How did you get out of that one, pray tell? I never get out of tickets. Maybe I look like a trouble maker. :-(

    I finally had to pass on the GTP to the wife and buy the Pro in order to save my license. That car had a way of dampening the sensation of speed while making speed quickly (as long as you were going in a straight line). My license is still not safe, especially on twisty roads. ;-)
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I never thought about the financing rate issues. My car is financed a little on the high side, but lower than the Protege was. The Pro was at 13% almost. That's another reason I was glad to upgrade to the newer car, to lower the rate.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I know how you feel. I have to really keep an eye on the speedo in the Jetta. In the Protege, I could tell when I was up to 80mph or so, because the engine was loud enough to let me know. But now, it feels like I am doing like 50 and all of a sudden I look down and am going 90. :)

    And usually if you get pulled over and they pull your record and see it's clean, they will just give you a warning. I have had that once, but that was a long time ago.
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Member Posts: 348
    My wife's Protege needs new tires. Actually, she will need them by the end of the summer although they are really losing any wet weather stability and traction.

    I can't remember what tires you placed on your Protege that you are so in love with. I remember that they are Dunlops though.

    Questions are:

    1) Are they Dunlop SP Sport A2 tires? If not, what types are they?

    2) what tire size do you have on currently and are you aware of what the maximum sizing would be for the 2000 ES Protege?

    I have an opportunity to purchase 4 Dunlop SP Sport A2's 205/55R16 for $503.96 or 4 Dunlop SP Sport A2's 225/50R16 for $559.46.

    Anyone care to comment or add feedback, please do so.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Yes, they are the Sport A2s Meade put on his car.

    He "plus zero" sized, and I think they are 205/50/15s, but not totally sure.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    If I claim it under insurance then won't my premiums go up up up? I think this is one of those cases where insurance stays out of it and the money disappears from my pocket :(

    At least they gave me another Pro for a loaner! Some gold colour. I think it's an SE...the badges are covered with snow and I can't tell otherwise...no power locks or power anything though, so I'm guessing SE.

    They were going to charge me for a new wheel cover, but I said I had some extras...Thanks Tim!! :D
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    The B-series 1.8 was used up until 1998. In 1999 and 2000, the 1.8 was a direct derivative of the 2.0 FSD.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    btw, in future, learn to take W I D E turns.....i scream at my wife who like to take turns with a small radius...always the fear of banging into the curbs....
    Hope that it's only the alignment...not bearings and axle...they are pretty tough...
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    LOL! It wasn't because of a wide turn...I was making a right turn at a 4-way-stop. The stop sign on my right was anchored to a large triangular curb height structure and sat in the middle of the road. That is what I smacked into. I only moved about 5 feet before I hit it.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    The estimate for my repair is this (all in CDN $):
    New rim = $187.08
    Alignment = 85.55
    Estimation time = 82.65
    Total incl tax = $380.15

    Does anybody else think that price of the rim is out of line, or is it just me?
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    I'm talking just about steel rims...not alloys/mags
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    OK. I tried it. Got the car up to 50, put it in neutral, then pressed the set button, and ...
    Zing went the (strings of my heart) tachometer. Guess I'll get out of the habit of always leaving the cruise power on, cause those buttons are a bit too easy to accidentally hit.
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    What is the current exchange rate? I've seen 15" steels for around $40 US.
  • cdnp5cdnp5 Member Posts: 163
    I think that price is outrages for a steel rim. I have steelies for my winter tires and I paid under $60/rim for mine. Maybe mine weigh just a bit more than the dealers but I'm sure not that much. See if they will come down on that price.

    d.

    ps. I live in Ontario so things should be that much different.
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Member Posts: 348
    You can pick up an alloy American Racing or Motegi rim for $124 to $180.00..... Steel rims should not cost you any more than $80.00 maximum.
  • rbrooks3rbrooks3 Member Posts: 174
    What year is your Pro or Pro5?
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    I would not be paying that for a steel rim either, that's way too much money! Maybe someone in the TH has extras or something.

    And if you claim it on the insurance, it would be comprehensive. So you would have to pay the deductible anyway. And in the US, they can't raise your premium for that. Don't know about Canada though.

    Also, alignment might be cheaper at a Midas or something like that. Check into it.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    They're telling me that they've already installed the rim and that there's nothing they can do. OMG!!! This is drving me nuts! He's telling me right now that it's because it's an OEM rim and it may be different than other rims. Arrghhh!! He says that in order for him to take it off, they'll have to re-align the wheels and they'll charge me again for the alignment!

    I've explained over and over how I think it's unacceptable for a steel rim to cost that much, but he says that he's not surprised because it's OEM. He says that they're stuck b/c that's what Mazda charges.

    Anger rising....
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Don't know about Canada, but in OH, they have to give you an up-front estimate, and your approval if the cost is a certain percentage (10%, I think) above the estimate given to you before they can proceed with the work. Otherwise, you can back out and pay only for the labor involved.

    No way they should be able to force the part on you if you don't want it.

    Wheel alignment is NOT affected by any wheel (given they're all in good condition). You don't get wheel alignment done with every tire rotation, right (even though the shop may try to push one on you)?

    So long as the replacement wheel has the same offset, width and diameter (and not a lot of difference in mass), it shouldn't matter if they differ slightly from the OEM wheel.

    In US$, 14in steel wheels cost about $40-$50.

    I'd be complaining to the manager, then up the chain to Mazda NA. Wouldn't hurt to get the local BBB (or equivalent) involved either. Of course, bad press might influence them as well, if your local news stations have a "consumer advocate" segment on their news crew. Amazing how the potential of getting bad coverage on broadcast news can get unscrupulous operators to change their tune.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    They're great tires. Very good hydroplaning resistance at highway speeds and very good wet and dry traction. Fairly good treadlife too.

    Not expensive either. Got the 185/65R14s on my Pro for $55US each.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    The bad part about this is that I am also at fault here. They told me the price and I said, "well, I guess you have to do it." Then I called back an hour later and they told me it was too late, they had already done it.
    I called another dealership to see how much they would charge and the rim costs the same...must be Mazda Canada's price.

    So I guess it's just one of those lessons in life :(
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    You can be dang sure that if ANYTHING is wrong with my steering after this I will be raising some H-E-Double hockey sticks.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Member Posts: 1,009
    Good luck with everything, dood.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    Luck is no longer a factor :(
    The only factor left is green....or purple, red, blue, and maroon if you're from Canada.
  • dsm6dsm6 Member Posts: 813
    It is an 02 Pro ES.

    I can conceive of the auto and the manual functioning differently. This is all conjecture, but - with an electronically controlled auto, I'd imagine the PCM is aware of the position of the gear selector, thus it will know when it is in neutral and can defeat the cruise control. I'm not sure whether or not the PCM knows the position of the shifter for the manual, but I'm guessing it doesn't (why bother?), and perhaps it isn't worth it to put in a sensor to detect when its in neutral just for this one issue. So making a short story long, I suppose the Mazda techs could have been thinking auto when they said that the Pro shouldn't respond to cruise input while in neutral. Just a guess.
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