Mazda Protegé

dinu01 · May 2003

Sorry to hear about your friend. Hope you're ok.

Dinu

mdaffron · May 2003

Last week we were going back and forth on the Dunlop SP Sport A2s, which you may remember I got rid of on Wednesday of last week for a set of BFG Touring T/A VR4s.

I had only gotten 21,000 miles out of the Dunlops, which had a treadlife warranty of 50,000 miles and a UTQG of 420. Dunlop and Goodyear (which owns Dunlop), however, said the uneven wear on the tires was caused by an alignment problem and refused to honor the warranty. Goodyear even put my car up on a lift and the guy showed me the highly apparent uneven wear -- and I believed his assertion that it was due to an alignment problem. I kept fighting, though, but after a few phone calls that got nowhere, I decided to cut my losses and chalk it up to experience -- and a decision never to purchase Dunlops again.

After having my new tires installed last week, I immediately made an appointment to have a four-wheel alignment so the new tires wouldn't suffer the same early death. I was off Friday and took the car in. An hour later the technician came out into the waiting area with a computer printout in hand.

After 54,600 miles, my car was in perfect alignment. Every parameter was in spec. I took a copy of the printout and paid him a small amount for an alignment "check."

Guys, don't buy SP Sport A2s. If you don't want to take one person's word for it, then go read the customer reviews at TireRack. You'll see a pattern of extreme initial satisfaction followed by angry complaints of uneven wear and short-lived tread, despite alignment checks and regular rotation, after about 15,000 miles. Dunlop has a dud on their hands and they'd better do something about it.

Meade

mazdafun · May 2003

We'll see you next time.

mdaffron · May 2003

As we drove around D.C.'s Capital Beltway on the way home from Pennsylvania Sunday afternoon, a wayward stone made its presence known with the all-too-dreadful "crack!" on my windshield. We looked around, however, and could see nothing. Besides, I've heard louder ones and this one didn't sound like a bad one.

Drove to work yesterday and everything was normal. Left work around 4 p.m. and started down the interstate when I noticed it starting ...

By the time I got home I had a foot-long crack running from the top of the windshield on the passenger side and curving toward the center of the windshield. @$%@^##!!!

Three good things about this:

(1) I get a new windshield. After 55,000 miles, the OEM one has its share of pockmarks and sandblasting.

(2) Virginia requires two new windshield decals every year, and it's one of my lesser-enjoyable experiences removing the old ones and putting on the new ones. This crack happens to have occurred about three weeks before I need to replace decals.

(3) My car is up for state inspection this month. Had it occurred a month later, I would've put off replacing the windshield almost a year and fumed all year at the ugly crack. This way, I've got to get it done now so it'll pass inspection.

Two things I'm scared of:

(1) Windshield-replacement horror stories shared by some of you. I'm gonna do a LOT of research on the company and the product used prior to letting anyone perform Lasik on Zoomster.

(2) With the way insurance companies are running scared, dropping folks like flies and raising rates for the tiniest claims these days, I'm gonna make DAMN SURE this won't affect my insurance "claims frequency" or anything else. If so, I'll go it without using my insurance company. (Bad state of affairs when you have insurance but are scared to use it, eh?)

So I guess the good outweighs the bad. In the very least Zoomster will have a nice, clear windshield in the next week or so.

I just hope it's a good one.

Meade

boggse · May 2003

I just switched to Mobil 1 in my P5 at the first oil change: 5000 miles.

I plan to change the oil at 10k and 15k, and then every 7,500 from there on out. I use Mobil 1 for a long drain interval. If I put on a lot of highway miles, would feel more comfortable doing the 7,500 mile interval with dino oil, but about half of our miles are city driving, so synthetic it is. At BJs Mobil 1 costs only a little more than the dino oil anyway.

mdaffron · May 2003

I'd like to add that it was a great selfless act to do what you did for your friend. If only everyone had such a devoted kindred spirit.

And remember ... you're only as old as you let yourself be.

Reminds me of something a dear friend of mine said in a toast at my wedding; something I'll never forget:

"May you live as long as you want, and never want as long as you live."

Meade

mazdafun · May 2003

I use it, primarily for smoother starts in the frigid winters. I figure since it works so much better at sub-freezing temps, it's going to allow smoother starts the rest of the year as well. Plus, I have a short commute, so I have lots of start/stop cycles for the mileage I put on my car. And I go only about 5,000 miles between changes.

Use the 626 V6 oil filter. It has more capacity than the standard filter. You'll need to change the filter before the oil needs changing, just more frequently with the standard filter.

mdaffron · May 2003

I think my engine runs a little more smoothly and I'm experiencing about a 1 mpg overall mileage increase since switching. The main reason I like it, though, is being able to go a little longer between oil changes. Whatever!

Meade

newcar31 · May 2003

I started using it around 1000 miles on my 2001 Protege ES. It has almost 29,000 on it now and runs great. 5W30 in the winter, 10W30 in the summer. I use it for the cold starts and extra protection. I still change it every 4000 miles or so because I do a lot of short trips. Funny thing is, the oil doesn't look that dirty at 4000 miles. Overkill? Maybe, but I still spend less than the average person does for dino oil changes.

boggse · May 2003

If you start using it early, it should drain relatively clean, even at 7,500 or 10,000 mile intervals.

chikoo · May 2003

from @12000 miles.
I now have 50,500 on my ES.
I tried Castrol syntec once, Amsoil once, Mobil1 twice(last 2 times)

mazdafun · May 2003

Makes for quick oil changes without having to warm up the oil first. Of course, I still have to drive it up my ramps.

One of these days, I'll get a creeper so I won't have to keep dirtying up my t-shirts on the floor.

gandalf17 · May 2003

in our Pro since 2,000km. She has just over 72,000km, the oil is changed every 8,000km and she runs and pulls like she did when brand new. With 5W-50, you don't need to change the oil for summer or winter driving which varies dramatically here in Canada from a temperature perspective. 5W-50 is the best oil for all season protection and especially if you enjoy revving your car through the gears.

On a seperate note, the Bridgestone Potenza RE930i tires are still doing wonderfully and we've had a lot of wet weather driving to contend with recently. The only bad thing is my wife ran over a nail during a storm we had here the other day. She didn't realize it and the car was sitting there in the parking lot withn a nice flat rear right tire when we were trying to leave from work. The rain was pouring and it was cold so i didn't want to change the tire. I used a can of sealent that pumps the tire up and took it to Costco's. They fixed the tire, rebalanced it and remounted it at no charge. No hassles at all.

Meade, enjoying the BFG's? Let me be the second to echo Meade's sentiments regarding Dunlop Sport A2 tires. Do not buy them at any cost!

P.S.- Meade, are you going to take a copy of that perfect alignment back to Goodyear/Dunlop with you???

mdaffron · May 2003

The tires are gone.

I could take the printout to Goodyear/Dunlop, but since they required an alignment check "at a Dunlop-Authorized Facility" and this was not, they wouldn't pay any attention to it anyway.

Besides, do you think they'd really care?

Meade

newcar31 · May 2003

I don't think Castrol is PAO based which means it's kind of a fake synthetic. Also, 5W50 is a pretty big viscocity spread so there has to be more additives in it which break down. Check out the synthetic oil forum on Edmunds. It has more than you would ever want to know about synthetic.

gandalf17 · May 2003

I just might do that as I have no idea what you are referring to by "PAO based" and "fake synthetic". Kind of an oxymoron in terms isn't it. Wouldn't a fake synthetic still be fake oil and therefore still synthetic cause it's not real. Ha, ha, ha.... Thanks for the suggestion.

As for the use of the 5W-50, it was actually my Mazda dealer that recommended it and i had Castrol confirm it as well for use in the Protege. The 5W-50 is the synthetic my Mazda dealer uses for anyone who wants the dealer to provide syn oil in their cars.

I will try and find the email that I received from Castrol. I know I have posted it here before many moons ago.

gandalf17 · May 2003

Well, it might not help, but certainly can't hurt your cause other than provide you with more stress and grief. I fail to see why an alignment must be performed by an authorized Goodyear/Dunlop dealer. AS long as the specs are within the manufacturer's specs, it should be irrelevant who did the alignment. Would they refuse to accept an alignment performed by Mazda itself??? That would be ludicrous. Then again, it is Dunlop....

gandalf17 · May 2003

Now, I realize they are biased to their products, but my question to them was whether 5W-50 would be recommended for use in the 1.8L Mazda Protege under the temp extreme parameters encountered as well as our particular driving styles.

The Mazda techs I speak too recommend the 5W-50 particularly for manual tranny's where the drivers are likely to hold the gear longer and rev higher up the tach causing the engine to work harder and run hotter.

-----Original Message-----
From: PowerCenter, Feedback [mailto:powercenter.feedback@cnacm.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2001 10:50 AM
To:
Subject: Response from Castrol your case number is

Thank you for contacting Castrol. We appreciate your interest in our products.
In response to your inquiry, Syntec 5W-50 provides the widest range of protection available. The 5W provides rapid oil circulation at start-up when most actual engine wear occurs and the 50 delivers a thicker high temperature oil film for ultimate wear and heat protection. Due to its wide range of protection, we at Castrol feel that this is the best grade for all vehicles. However, manufacturers recommend SAE 5W-30 motor oil to assist them in meeting Corporate Average Fuel Economy requirements. By encouraging the use of this grade, manufacturers can utilize 5W-30 in their testing to qualify vehicles for CAFE. A lower viscosity oil like 5W-30 will provide an incremental improvement in fuel economy (approximately 2%) during vehicle qualification.
Given this fact, if your Protégé is still under warranty, we recommend that you use Syntec 5W-30 year-round to avoid any potential issues with the dealership. If your Protégé is not under warranty, we recommend Syntec 5W-50 year-round for the best protection available. Once again, thank you for contacting us. We trust that the information provided is to your satisfaction. Please contact us if we can help again in the future.
Genevieve Hendrix
Reference:

kaiserhead · May 2003

I just signed up for the "Mazda Rev it Up" in Miami, sounds like it's going to be great.

For anyone else who signed up: YOU'RE GOING TO GET SMOKED!!!! (Just a little trash-talk'n from a fellow Mazda driver!!!)

On the lighter side of the news, the Protege just passed over 85,500kms (53,000 miles) and according to the dealer, the original brakes are only showing 50% wear on the front pads, now that's longevity (especially for a car that traverses Miami's brutal stop and go traffic.)

newcar31 · May 2003

I've been reading different synthetic threads for a while now. I'm no chemical engineer, but what I've read on those threads is that more additives are needed the higher the viscosity spread. Additives break down over time. With synthetic, not many additives are needed to achieve a 10W30 viscosity. I don't know about 5W50. As far as Castrol being a "fake" synthetic, read this article and you'll see what I mean. It's actually a fake fake oil made from "real" oil:

http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=27&article- _id=3631&page_number=1

edmund2460 · May 2003

Thanks guys, I'm surprised, I thought most of the replies would be 'nah it's a waste of money'. I know the car talk guys had a an answer for someone who asked that question "What good is having an engine last forever if the rest of the car collapses into a pile of rust?".

Encouraged by the replies, I will switch this week to Mobil 1. I change oil at the dealer and service told me it would be quicker if I bought the oil. Wouldn't I be sticking with the same viscosity (5W-30). I mean it doesn't make a difference if it is synthetic, does it?

Newcar answered the question about Castrol with the Car and driver article, I think . BTW, PAO stands for PolyAlphaOlefins. Mobil is totally syn. and Castrol partly uses crude oil stock to make theirs. I believe Mobil took them to court on this. If Newcar's article is the one by Pat Bedard, Bedard asks why Castrol should charge just as much for an oil that is not truly synthetic.

fowler3 · May 2003

Thanks.

**I'd like to add that it was a great selfless act to do what you did for your friend. If only everyone had such a devoted kindred spirit.**

It wasn't unexpected and more of a duty. A fine man with a wonderful family, whom I greatly admired. Being there near the end and the previous six weeks wasn't a sacrifice.

Meade, you have me confused now, I thought the Dumbflops were suppose to be great tires. And others are now saying the BFG's are bumpy around town! I have bumpy tires, looking for something smooth riding.

fowler3

newcar31 · May 2003

It is the Bedard article and Mobil did take Castrol to court and lost. I think what Castrol did was kind of shifty, so I buy Mobil 1.

vocus · May 2003

Sorry to hear about the windshield. I lost windshields along the Capital Beltway in both my Proteges, so I know what you mean. I was lucky enough to be behind a truck with a number though, and they paid for the glass for me. I also used one of those windshield companies that came to my work and did the work (don't remember the name though). It was $304, I do remember that much, but this was in 1999. The windshield never leaked or had wind noise up until the day I sold the car. As for the 01, I never replaced the glass in it, I traded the car with the broken windshield.

As far as the MAPP thing, don't blame people because of their ages. It's their maturity level that makes them morons.

vocus · May 2003

My condolences on your friend's passing. It's hard to deal with sometimes, but think about the fact that he's in a much better place now without pain and suffering.

mdaffron · May 2003

Well, first of all I *did* think the Dumflops were excellent tires -- at first. If you'll go to TireRack's website and read the customer reviews on this tire (which you may want to do, along with those for other tires, since you're in the market), you'll notice a trend of initial praise, followed about 15,000 miles later with dismay as the treadwear speeds up and the tires begin to wear unevenly despite alignments and timely rotations. The Dunlops must have a whacko compound in them which hasn't been tested well enough to estimate the true life expectancy of the tire. While they had tread, they were excellent tires. But the 420 rating and the 50,000-mile treadlife warranty is a joke, as most owners of the tires have found through experience. I'd recommend a treadwear rating of 160 and no warranty, if Dunlop wants to (a) tell the truth, a (b) save face and a potential class-action suit down the road.

Because of my weekend trip to PA, my one-week-old BFGs already have nearly 1,000 miles on them. I need to take them in to have the front ones' balance checked again, because I've found a verrrry slight vibration in my steering wheel above 70 mph or so. Even so, they're smoother than the Dunlops were, and even with that slight vibration I enjoyed them at speeds reaching 80 during the trip. No complaints about around-town ride quality though.

Meade

mdaffron · May 2003

"As far as the MAPP thing, don't blame people because of their ages. It's their maturity level that makes them morons."

That's kinda what I meant when I got my head chewed off -- I equated age with maturity level.

And argue as some will, I still believe it. After all, I do remember being that age and doing some pretty dumb things. I think that's part of being young, immature, inexperienced, headstrong -- whatever you want to call it.

But all said, I never went around nude in public, defaced others' property or vandalized police cars.

But I do still have copies of a few summonses ("trophies of foolhardy youth," if you will) for such things as throwing beer bottles onto a public highway, trespassing and doing 69 in a 55 (the cop was gracious, I was doing 74) ...

Meade

mazdafun · May 2003

Mine are a different size (185/65R14) and seem to be doing well. They're past half-way down at about 20,000miles; I still have over 3/16in of wear left, measuring down to the wear bands, and they're still smooth and almost as quiet as when I first got them. Wear seemed to be very even across the tire as well the last time I rotated them (about 2,500 miles ago), but then I take corners fast, so I may scrub down the outer tread more that way to compensate for the Protege's decidedly sporty setting (look at the rear wheels from directly behind...you'll see the tops are markedly tipped inwards...better for traction in fast corners).

I also keep them at 34psi v. 32psi. That may keep them stiffer, helping to even wear. I also weave around potholes, manhole covers etc., which probably sometimes concerns drivers around me.

I also think concrete pavement wears tires more quickly and less evenly than asphalt, depending on how rough and uniform they groomed the surface. I hate driving over concrete highways. So much more noise.

mdaffron · May 2003

Take a look at the inside tread of the tire. I was fooled into thinking I had lots of tread left too, until I got under the car when it was up on a lift and saw the inside tread was down to the treadwear indicators at 17,000 miles.

I kept mine at 34 to 15 psi.

Meade

newcar31 · May 2003

"But all said, I never went around nude in public, defaced others' property or vandalized police cars."

Gee, neither did I or any of my friends. I just hate it when people say things like, "the kids these days, I never did that kind of stuff when I was a kid, bla bla bla".

Whatever. What about the counter-culture revolution that was supposed to bring about world peace? The only thing that revolution did was kill millions of brain cells and create thousands of illegitimate children. You're generations and older generations are the ones who RAISED THE KIDS YOU ARE COMPLAINING ABOUT. Did you ever think about that?

manavi · May 2003

For those that were interested, I got the Toyo TPT's installed yesterday afternoon and my initial impressions are that they are a little less sticky than the Dunlop 5000's were when they were new and they provide a quiet and smooth ride (at least as quiet and smooth as the 5000's when new).

As Meade has noticed, initial impressions of a new tire can be misleading, so I will try to give updates as the miles increase.

My wife and I left the car at the tire place to have the tires mounted and also the brake pads replaced and the rotors resurfaced. In a refreshing act of honesty the tire place guy called and asked me if I really wanted to replace the pads because they still had 20% left. I asked him in his opinion how long did he think I could safely drive with those pads without any danger of damaging the rotors. He said probably about 10 - 15 thousand miles. He said he would be glad to change them anyways if I just wanted to feel safe about it. But, I told him I will probably just bring the car back to him next year. I wonder if he realizes that his honesty just earned him a repeat customer for life? The tire place was called Purcell Tire.

chikoo · May 2003

>>>others are now saying the BFG's are bumpy around town! I have bumpy tires, looking for something smooth riding.<<<

I can vouch for the BFG as COMFORTABLE and SMOOTH, way comfortable than the stock Bridgestone poortenzas. Whoever called it bumpy, needs to define bumpy.
The BFG with a slighly softer and taller sidewall actually soaks up bumps and cracks on the road very nicely.
It actually makes the car feel like a luxo-sedan compared to the harsh ride of the poortenzas.

and I have 18,000 miles on them to prove it.

manavi · May 2003

"Bumpy" may be a result of over-inflated tires.

gandalf17 · May 2003

for the article link. I found it really informative as I am certainly not a chemical engineer either. I was not aware that Castrol changed the base compound for their synthetic product line in 1997 and had i known this, I may have decided to utilize a different synthetic.

Now, that said, our Pro has been running Castrol Syntec 5W-50 for the last 70,000km and as I said, she still runs wonderfully. Even if someone showed me Mobil 1 was a little better and longer lasting, I would not change the oil in our Pro at this point because the engine has been running on the 5W-50 for 3 years now. I also perform very regular maintenance and oil changes so the fact that that Mobil 1 may not breakdown as quickly, is kind of a non-factor for me. These oils have next to no chance of breaking down anyway under ever 8,000km of normal and spirited driving. Maybe racing for 8,000km, but even then the oil viscosity would not break down to any level that would be damaging to an engine. Moreover, the 5W-50 does meet and exceed the highest European performance testing on oil which is the A3 equivalent. The 5W-30 and 10W-30 Syntec only exceed the A1 equivalent. The minimum I have ever used on my cars, synthetic or otherwise, has been 10W-40 which affords an A2 performance protection rating.

Now, the article made me think and compare a little more so I did some research of Mobil 1 vs. Castrol Syntec. Now, the main aim of oil is to provide protection and at the end of the day, very few of us know the difference of the varying compounds used and what might be the advantage/disadvantage of each. I want protection and I want to see the empirical data to support the testing standards.

What i found is this: The Castrol Syntec 5W-50, regardless of it's base compounds, still affords higher protection amongst various international tests than both the Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 and 10W-30 oils. Only the Mobil 1 15W-50 meets the same protection performance as Castrol Syntec 5W-50.

Here is the info on Castrol Syntec SAE 5W-50 :
SAE 5W-50: provides the widest range of protection available. SAE 5W-50 delivers exceptional cold temperature pumpability for rapid oil circulation at start-up and provides a thick oil film for ultimate wear protection. Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer's warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, ACEA B3, meets Japanese valve train wear and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils, as well as Porsche, Volvo, BMW and Mercedes Benz.

Here is the info for Mobil 1 Supersyn 10W-30 which is their most popular selling motor oil. The protection performance is basically the same for both the 5W-30 and 10W-30.

Benefits of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 10W-30:

The best-selling grade of Mobil 1.
Outstanding engine cleanliness and sludge protection.
Outstanding wear protection, even under the most extreme conditions.
Protects against wear by getting to engine parts fast.
Exceeds API SL/CF and ILSAC GF-3.
Exceeds ACEA A1/B1 and A5/B5.

Applications:
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 10W-30 is designed for passenger cars and light trucks with gasoline or diesel engines. It also exceeds "Energy Conserving" ratings.

Here is the info on Mobil 1 15W-50 :

Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 15W-50 is a performance-driving formula that provides superior high-temperature protection for high-performance cars. It keeps protecting your engine, guarding against wear, even during hard driving.

Benefits of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 15W-50:

Excellent for supercharged and turbocharged engines, muscle cars and amateur racers.
The highest viscosity Mobil 1 available.
Race proven.
Superior high-temperature protection for high-performance and high-revving cars. Contains extra SuperSyn anti-wear system.
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 15W-50 is factory fill in Ford Mustang Cobra R.
Exceeds API SL/CF.
Exceeds ACEA A3/B3/B4-02.
Applications:
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn 15W-50 is perfect for hot-running or heavily loaded vehicles and high-tech imported cars. It offers an extra level of protection, even under extreme use.

Anyway, thanks again for the article and I'm glad it made me think and compare a little more. Personally I'm still very happy with the Castrol Syntec. I hope you find the info above useful too. Sorry for the long post.

pierreasdf · May 2003

... it was me. I had v-rated ultra-performance summer tires before (nokian nrv) and they provided stiff but short impacts in town (and the car developped a lot of rattles with them). With the BFG, the feeling is more elastic but it takes a longer time to the car to recover from holes and bumps. I'm running 32 psi front and rear on 7 inches wide aftermarkets wheels (I think that the stock ones is 6 inches wide); maybe I will have to lower the psi a little bit.

But I confirm that they are VERY comfortable and I like them very much; on highway, I'm also have the feeling to drive a luxo-sedan. In fact, I call my car a 'Procedes' now (ok, sort of ...).

P.S. My mother tongue is french, sorry if some of my comments cause misunderstanding ...

dinu01 · May 2003

How much does it cost you to change your oil w/Castrol Syn at everey 8000kms?

I do it every 4000kms w/regular. Just wondering how the cost plays in this one.

Dinu

chikoo · May 2003

Yes. the tires are more elastic and will contribute to a rattle free ride.

gandalf17 · May 2003

I take it to the dealer every 8,000km and pay more than I should for the inspection, lubrication and oil change. I bring my own oil with me as well, as I can buy a 6 case cheap at Costco's. Basically, the oil change labour would cost me anywhere from $15.00 to $20.00 if that was all i was having them do. They deduct the oil i bring from the total amount of a regular oil change. The oil cost to me is about $12.00 so i guess my oil changes are $27.00 to $32.00 every 8,000km. Usually the dealers standard oil change is $24.99, but they sometimes have a $19.99 promotion going on. The entire service they do every 8,000km runs me about $40.00 to $45.00 not including the larger services every 24,000 and 48,000km.

newcar31 · May 2003

You say you like empirical data, have you checked out the ACEA website? I don't think you can assume that an A3 oil is necessarily better than an A1 or A2 or whatever. Take a look at the specs:

http://www.acea.be/ACEA/20020618PublicationsOilSequences.pdf

gandalf17 · May 2003

I just read through the AMEA definitions and I think it shows pretty conclusively that an A3 rated oil would provide more protection than an A1 rated oil.

I base this on both the description and classifications of A1, A2 and A3 for "Gasoline Sequences" on page 4, as well as the minimum quality level metrics and levels defined on page 5 and 6. Essentially what it is saying and also showing empirically is that an A3 oil has higher tolerances and much greater viscosity than grade A1 and A2 oils. It also indicates that an A3 graded oil is more suitable than an A1 and A2 oil to leave in your engine for a longer duration and drain interval.

There is a significant difference between the A1 and A3 graded oils, but much less so between A2 and A3 rated oils.

Anyway, I'm not trying to make this into some sort of Mobil 1 vs. Castrol Syntec debate. I am just relaying my experience and now commenting on some of the info that you are posting here. The info is great stuff and I never knew this before. However, I will add that it makes me feel more assured of using the 5W-50 in the Pro and Rex.

newcar31 · May 2003

I'm sorry, what I meant was that I don't think A3 rated oils are any better than A5 rated oils. Mobil 1 5W30 and 10W30 are both rated for A5. If you look at the specs, A5 and A3 seem to be the same except A5 satisfies some special criteria for the Dodge Viper whereas A3 does not.

fowler3 · May 2003

for the "comforting...ah...comfortable" explanations. I am more confident now that when I replace the Poortenzas I can put my teeth in. jk

Kidding aside, it isn't really that bad a ride. I just wish it was smoother at times. One thing I have noticed is the Poortenzsa get out of balance more often than I would expect. When tires were bias-ply I don't recall having to get them balanced every 3000 miles. But when they were out of balance you definately knew it -- very bumpy ride.

Like meade said, that slight vibration in the steering wheel is the tip-off.

fowler3

mazdafun · May 2003

They were pretty evenly worn. Since your problems started just before then (I've put lots of miles on with trips to Detroit etc. for work recently), I checked the wear indicators across the tires.

They seem to be wearing faster than I'd think from the wear rating, but not unacceptably fast for a high-performance all-season tire. Again, my tire size is different, so that may be why. Then again, maybe I lucked out and got 4 good ones. They seem to be working for me, but I may try the Bridgestone RE910 or Yokohama Avid T4 next time (I like the quick response of these types of tires...the Michelin X-Ones on my 323 are great touring tires, but don't offer as much fun in s-curves and corners...but the 323 can use as much help soaking up bumps as it can).

I've had good luck with Yokohamas in the past, except the compound gets hard after 4-5 years and grip goes down while squeal goes up. My wife seemed to like the RE910s on her Saturn. Then again, she like the Dunlop D60A2s on it as well (until the blister on one blew, but geez, those tires were getting on 7 years...I'd told her she was overdue for new tires...still plenty of tread left on those BTW).

A friend with a BMW 328i has Dunlop SP5000 tires and says they hydroplane easily. I don't notice that issue on my wife's P5 on wet roads. Then again, it's FWD v. RWD and different tire sizes.

gandalf17 · May 2003

If your wife liked the RE910's than definately take a closer look at the RE930i's. They are high performance all season's as opposed to just performance all season's. They have an H-speed rating where i think the RE910's are S and T rated respectively. The RE930's handle the wet stuff very well and have an A traction rating which is measured against wet weather braking.

You can likely acquire the RE930i's at Costco's for less than what you will pay for the RE910's and the RE930 are superior tires. Good luck.

gandalf17 · May 2003

yes, the A3 and A5 oils are very similiar with a few minor differences. However, i thought the A5 oil rating is specific to Chrysler in general and it says that it's use may not be recommended in some engines. I guess either way, the protection is ceratinly comparable.

Take care.

newcar31 · May 2003

I think A5 cannot be used in engines that need really thick oil and we should not have to worry about that in the Protege. I also think A5 rated oil is the same as A3 except for some special criteria needed by DaimlerChrysler (Dodge Viper). Why would DC, Porsche, GM, etc. all chose Mobil 1? Castrol can make their synthetic cheaper so it would stand to reason that Castrol could give the manufacturers a better deal. The manufacturers choose Mobil 1 though. Why?

Another thing I find curious is the fact that the Mobil 1 site gives you specs and the Castrol site does not. What's up with that?

the_big_h · May 2003

as part of the 30k maintenance, i need to replace the spark plugs on my Protege. For those that have done it themselves, how long of an extension do i need for my ratchet wrench to reach the plugs below the valve cover, and did you guys use any kind of anti-seize compound when installing the plugs (what did you use?)

thanks

newcar31 · May 2003

A 6 inch extension should be fine. I use anti-seize and di-electric (sp?) grease. Usually, auto parts stores will have little packets of the grease and anti-seize for cheap. I use Denso or NGK (whichever are available) plugs. I also do mine every 15K. At 15K, my plugs were out of gap already.

tomciviletti · May 2003

I've never had a plug seize in an aluminum head. I have had one cross-tread [ouch, time for helicoil] and had a too loose one blow out of the engine [surprise, but no damage].

If you use bosch platinum tip plugs, they will stay within specs for 30k miles easily.

newcar31 · May 2003

I've never had a seized or cross-threaded plug, but I still use anti-seize because there's always a first for everything. I just use the cheap plugs because they're only about $7 for 4. I figure $7 every year and a half (15,000 miles) isn't bad for spark plugs and I honestly could never tell a difference in mileage or power with platinums. I don't mind working on my car, so the longer replacement interval of platinums doesn't really matter to me. It takes me about 10 minutes to do the plugs. At 15K, the plugs were out of spec, but barely. They're supposed to be at .044 and they were at about .047. I did the plugs in my friend's Integra this weekend and those things were WAY out of spec, almost off the gap tool's scale. I guess that's what 45,000 miles on the original plugs will do.

Mazda Protegé

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