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Mazda Protegé

16061636566453

Comments

  • yooper53yooper53 Member Posts: 286
    Boy you know I'd love to go from CA to NY only in the opposite direction and if I had the spare
    $$ to support the trip
  • aardvark_markaardvark_mark Member Posts: 95
    3 proteges (tuned mp3s i think) compete in the Speedvision world challenge (touring car division).. tv schedule link follows..


    http://www.speedvisionwc.com/2001/tvschedule.html


    of course this isn't broadcast live.. so the results for the race are probably available at their website.. but please don't post the results! :) thanks!


    ciao

  • panamaltd2panamaltd2 Member Posts: 162
    Amen! The new ones just don't look as sharp and euro. Some people just don't like euro styled cars. Freshenings don't always improve the look, they just change it a little. Love the MP3 and Pro5, have the same sharp edged euro look as the 1999-2000. I have heard and seen that the next Pro. is going to be absolutely beautiful in the best German fashion. Mazda designers really admire Audi! I was thinking that my next car in a year would be a new A4, but if the next Pro. is as good as think it will be I may change my mind...
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    One of my co-workers has a 2000 Protege ES in silver. She saw my 2001 and was like, "Wow! I like it alot!". She liked the sporty touches like the fog lights, the front end, the spoiler, and the wheels. I like the front end of the 2001 better because it doesn't have those huge turn signal lamps. I thought they were too big for the car.

    As for the P5's front end, the front bumper does look huge compared to the entire car. I know I like the taillamps alot. I would love to be able to somehow retrofit the P5 taillamps to my ES sedan. Now that would be wild!

    Fowler: I have taken a 100-mile trip in my Protege with 3 passengers up and down mountains, and no one complained once. Of course, that was only about an hour. We did rent a Chevy Tracker SUV for a 5-hour drive to the Poconos a couple weeks back, and about halfway through the trip one of my friends (same ones that went on the 100-mile one with me) was like, "God, I wish we would have brought the Protege instead of THIS!". I guess that speaks for itself, considering the friend is 6'3 and rode in the back of my Protege (with a sunroof too) without touching the headliner and without any cramping.
  • panamaltd2panamaltd2 Member Posts: 162
    The wheels on the 1999-2000 ES looked more euro then the ones on the ES now. Vocus...of course you would like the 2001 better, that is what you own. To each his own. Whatever, blah, blah, blah...
  • gserep1gserep1 Member Posts: 92
    Hello,
    My sister has a 96 Protege LX 1.5L automatic, and she has major problems with the valves. This car has about 75,000 miles and has already had the upper end done once. Parts on this car are not cheap. It looks like she needs more cams AGAIN. The 1.5L is very underpowered, especially with the automatic transmission. The engines don't seem very durable.

    Both of my sisters have Protege's. The other sister has a 95 ES with the 1.8L engine and 5 speed with ABS. This one is very powerful, but has also had upper valvetrain problems in the past. Has anyone else had this kind of trouble? The 02 sensors are very expensive too. on the ES, the 2 sensors cost over 400 dollars each to replace. On the 1.5 they cost nearly 300 dollars each.

    Plus both engines have terrible exhaust manifolds. Both are cracked and make them sound like trucks. Did they get lemons, or did anyone else have some of the same problems? Fit and finish on both cars are great, and everything else is fine. But the labor to fix these cars is ridiculous...nearly 1 thousand for each car.

    I am just checking to see if anyone else had this problem with the upper part of either engine. Maybe we will fix them, or maybe we will get rid of them. I started to get a new Protege, but seeing how these engines held up, I bought a new Sentra SE 2.0L instead. I still like my Protege's but they are beginning to scare me.

    Thanks for listening,
    GSEREP1
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    Just curious (for gserep1) - did you have the timing belt replacement service and the 60K service done? These are interference engines, and I understand valve damage would be caused if worn-out timing belts were to break!

    I have taken numerous trips since I bought mine a year and a half ago (in fact, I have a 1.5 mile commute, so most of the almost 10K miles I've put on it are highway). Most trips in the mountains in UT, CO, WY, ID and in the Nevada desert! With anything from 0 to 3 passengers. Comfortable, and absolutely reliable!

    It sounds like your sisters got lemons, or missed out on reguylar maintenance - which is an invitation for expensive repairs in any vehicle, however good!

    Hope you can have them repaired and they serve your purpose, but to each his or her own! I love my 95 Protege, and I do drive it pretty hard too!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    I thought we'd been through this depreciation thing several times. Here's the logic ...

    Sure, Proteges depreciate faster than Civics or Corollas. But not by much! Since we all love spouting off emotionally on these topics before we check the FACTS, I did a little research for all of us. It may help those who are insecure about their purchase to CALM DOWN just a little.

    Here goes. (All of the following is from the NADA and Edmunds Websites this morning. Prices are based on Protege ES vs. Civic EX, both 5-speed manuals with air, alloy wheels and CD players. On the used models I plugged in the same mileage for both. Note: The top-of-the-line Protege in 1992 was the LX, but it had all of the features of the Civic EX of that year.)

    New 2001 Prices (MSRP):

    Civic EX: $17,350
    Protege ES: $16,015

    Difference: Civic costs $1,335 more than Protege

    Used 2000 Prices (Trade-in/Avg. Retail):

    2000 1992
    Civic EX: $13,250/$15,450 $3,900/$5,350
    Protege ES: $11,375/$13,250 $2,000/$3,250

    Difference: $1,875/$2,200 $1,900/$2,100
    (in Civic's favor)

    So, if we take into account that we paid $1,335 LESS for our Proteges, the Civic retains only about $565 in trade-in value or $765 average retail after 8 years. I don't think that's such a big difference in depreciation, especially when you consider that the Protege HAS A BETTER WARRANTY (3/50 as opposed to 3/36), a larger engine, a larger interior, etc., etc.

    Let's get our facts straight before we slam our own cars, OK? I, for one, love my Protege and the two I had before it! (And by the way, my '92 LX 5-speed went 83,000 miles before I traded it in and I never had any clutch problems, and I was still on my original brakes too!)

    ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM!

    Meade
  • mdaffronmdaffron Member Posts: 4,421
    very well in the above post. But I think you can figure it out. Under "2000 1992" there are supposed to be two prices for each year, separated by a "/". The price before the / is trade-in, and the price after the / is average retail. First set is for the 2000 model, second for the 1992.

    Meade
  • mhallackmhallack Member Posts: 32
    Something we may be forgetting here is that if your car breaks down, that doesn't mean they all will. Since our cars cost a good sum of money (even for the miserly Protege), it's very easy to become emotional when one of them breaks down (particularly if it happens frequently). What we have to remember is that they all didn't go through the assembly line the same day or even the same way. Every manufacturer produces some lemons, the question is how often. This question can only be answered statistically.

    One or even a few people's experience, until it is correlated between hundreds or thousands of other experiences is anecdotal evidence (and fairly weak), not statistical evidence.

    When we say "they don't build them like they used to" based on a single car, we are making an extremely wide inference based on very little evidence.

    It would be a similar case, if we knew someone who died in a car accident and said "its getting so its not safe to drive anymore". People die in car accidents and will continue to do so, but less die per mile travelled EVERY year (according to the NHTSA). When we look at the whole of the evidence we realize that the highways are safer than they used to be.
  • protegenicprotegenic Member Posts: 199
    I did about 480 miles yesterday on a business trip in my '99 ES. Going and average of 75 with the AC on and an additional passenger, I got right at 33 mpg. That was the highest I have ever had yet. As pleased as I am with that figure, I would probably have gotten even better with a higher 5th gear and the cabin would have been a lot less noisy. I was usually at about 3700 RPM.

    Love my Protege, but that noisy fifth gear is the one thing that probably I am the least thrilled with.
  • gserep1gserep1 Member Posts: 92
    Hello,
    In response to your very good questions, I will say that the belt was indeed changed on time. I changed it at 60,000 miles, only to find out that it is supposed to be done at 105,000 miles for California engines. Why they should be different, I don't have a clue. I know that these are ZERO clearance engines, and if a timing belt breaks, certain valves will be bent when they kiss a piston. Not a good thing to happen, for sure.

    Both engines were very well maintained, and all services were done on time. The engines were both serviced with synthetic oils, and K&N air filters to keep things clean. I have seen so many of the 95 and 96 year cars with cracked exhaust manifolds. There seems to be a defect of some type. I contacted Mazda, and they said that no one has reported any cracked manifolds, and the replacement is about $250.00. I definitely don't want to buy a replacement manifold if it is the same as the first one, and has not been improved upon. Has anyone else experienced a cracked exhaust manifold on their cars? I am trying to establish some sort of pattern.

    Any help that anyone can give would be greatly appreciated. I really like both of these cars, and I feel really bad for one of my sisters because I SOLD this car to her when I worked at a local Mazda dealership. I really believed in these cars when I worked there. They really do have much more interior space for passengers and are really comfortable. Now that they are out of warranty, we don't want to spend good money after bad trying to keep these cars running if they are not worth it.

    Thanks again,
    GSEREP1
  • bluemicaa1bluemicaa1 Member Posts: 8
    Hi guys! There is a great forum happening here. I have just change the oil in my 2000 Pro ES. Kind of difficult reaching for that oil filter. Well, I have a question about checking the level of the transmission fluid. I know in old cars, there is a dip stick that you can use to check the levels of your fluids. I looked for one in my Pro ES but I can't seem to find it. Is there one. Just wanted to make sure that when I change my oil again next time, I would be able to run a check on all of the fluids of my car.
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    there is one. look at the right rear corner...next to the tranny
  • bluemicaa1bluemicaa1 Member Posts: 8
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Even the top gear in the auto is pretty low, resulting in higher rpms at highway speeds (at 65mph, my 99LX goes at about 3000rpm, while my 89 323 runs at about 2700rpm). However, it does make the car more responsive when accelerating to pass someone.

    It's a compromise of performance versus economy. But I knew that when I bought my Pro (instead of a Civic, which was the closest competition at the time...Corolla, Sentra, Impreza were, and still are, much too cramped for me).

    Could I have gotten a larger car with similar or better performance and economy? Yeah, but they are too clumsy to maneuver in parking lots (curb-to-curb turning circles of 34 feet are about as big as I want to go) and aren't nearly as nimble in S-curves. You'll notice most vehicles with larger turning circles don't post this specification, or don't use a "curb-to-curb" number, which is the only realistic figure to use (kind of like how CRT monitor mfrs list the glass size in big type and actual usable area in small type).
  • yooper53yooper53 Member Posts: 286
    Can someone please verify whether or not the above engine is firewall mounted. Never actually heard of such in automotive application. Also that drag co-efficient is 0.32? Thought I read that somwhere. Seems kinda low for the car..? Thanks. Dennis MI
  • edmund2460edmund2460 Member Posts: 293
    BlueMica where is the oil filter on the ES. Did you put it up on stands to get to it. I want to do my oil change but could not see the filter. Others on this forum have said that stands are needed. If so what kind do I need to get? Thanks
  • yooper53yooper53 Member Posts: 286
    on p 5-25 owners manual it cautions against exceeding redline (6500). I've never been able to exceed 6300 rpm. Is there a rev limiter?
  • yooper53yooper53 Member Posts: 286
    filter is on rear of block, Illus in owner's manual.How difficult is the filter to get to? When I took deliv someone in the service dept said If you can put it on a lift its easy, from ramps or stands it'd be a pain. That's as much as I know. I'm on my way to get a pr. of ramps and find out for myself. I agree w/you. I rest easier doing my own oil/filter changes..if its not a monumental pain like my previous V6 Contour.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    It'll help you get under your car w/o scuffing your back-side. Wear safety glasses too as dirt and oil will probably fall on you when you remove the filter.

    I can just get to the oil filter from the top on my 1.6L engine. Got a pair of steel ramps for the next time so I can see if it's easier to do from underneath. At least it'll make it easier to shove my catch basin underneath the drain outlet.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I prefer not to work with a creeper(or dolly as mazdafun stated). I find that a large piece of cardboard works much better as it's disposable if soiled and gives you more clearance. Also, you can slide around easier, don't have to fuss with the crazy caster wheels and you won't roll away on an uneven surface.

    :)
  • nematodenematode Member Posts: 448
    You wrote: "So, if we take into account that we paid $1,335 LESS for our Proteges, the Civic retains only about $565 in trade-in value or $765 average retail after 8 years. I don't think that's such a big difference in depreciation..."

    Even that does not tell the whole story. For example: $1335 invested at 5% interest for 8 years becomes $2000. Thats what I did. I invested the differnce in a FDIC insured 5 year CD at 5.5%. One could also use the $1335 to pay of credit card debt at 9-22% and then its worth even more. $1335 used to make 1-2 house payments is worth even more over 20-30 years. So the $765 basically shrinks to nothing.

    The moral: Good residual values are not a good reason to buy or not buy a car IF the car costs less (5-10%) to begin with AND you are careful with your money.
  • unmarkedcarunmarkedcar Member Posts: 162
    Hey guys...its been a while since I wrote. I was thinking of tinting my windows. Has anyone done this. I took it to a place that wanted $130.00. They only garuntee it for 5 years. I can do it myself for about $40.00. I was going to get the supplies from AUTOZONE. They sell GILA window film. I was just going to tint upper part of the back window and not the whole rear window. I have heard that you can damage the defoster if you ever have to remove the tint. What do you guys think. I also think that I can take my time and do a better job. I think that some of these places like to rush job it. The guy told me it would take 90 minutes. How can you do a good job in 90 minutes.
  • yooper53yooper53 Member Posts: 286
    re:"..some of these places like to rush job it."
    I agree. Makes me bloody nervous. Initially I'll do a few oil changes, warranty required checks at dealer I got it from. I'm not sure how many folks, esp. the younger folks are aware of this but it always pays to put all car repairs, and servicing on a credit card. If you have any hassles w/ the work or parts it gives you legal recourse to with hold payment 'til the work issue is resolved. You pay cash, you have Jack! Didn't mean to wax geezerly good folks.. Dennis MI
  • mazdafunmazdafun Member Posts: 2,329
    Cardboard's much cheaper too! Appeals to me. :)

    BTW, thanks for the technical term. The name escaped me at the time.
  • bluemicaa1bluemicaa1 Member Posts: 8
    like what yooper said, its on the rear of the block. the old filter was black in color. You'll need to roll your Pro on a ramp, that's what I did. I used those oil filter wrench to unscrew the old filter because you kind of have to reach for it.

    9050 mi. and still zoomin'
  • fowler3fowler3 Member Posts: 1,919
    Creeper races! For those who change their own oil.

    fowler3
  • hboydhboyd Member Posts: 98
    Hey people... long time since I last posted!

    My '01 ES is holding up okay: I still have to go back to the dealer to have the morning exhaust buzz fixed and now the engine begins to "tick" under moderate acceleration. Otherwise the ES is solid at 6,000 miles -- no rattles/squeeks -- and/or breakdowns. Power and braking are very good. A/C is fair at idle but cools very well when the engine is at cruising RPMs. I have noticed one "small" glaring cheapout in the new ES: the black carpeting is very thin and appears bald in a couple places -- especially under drivers mat. Anyone else notice it? :) Maybe I'll bring it to the dealer's attention next week.

    Maltb: Yep, cardboard is great for working under the car!! The tiny Mazda oil filter is a "pain!" to remove... Dealers always install it too tightly.

    MARTIN
  • bondobobbondobob Member Posts: 34
    My MP3 just came into the dealer and I pick it up next week. I've seen the reviews (Grassroots Motorsports had a decent write-up) and have driven the car. While I am a bit older than the intended audience, I wanted a little rice-burner without having to built the thing from scratch. I think it will do nicely for some local autocross, too.

    Question: The First Drive review online here mentions the Kenwood MP3 stereo has being hissy and heavy bass. Understanding that the younger driver likes to boom boom (rather than zoom zoom!) does the unit come with EQ? Are there adjustments on the subwoofer? Just curious.
  • tomcivilettitomciviletti Member Posts: 207
    I while back there was a post stating that the pro is not a good long trip car. I disagree. I find my '99es comfy and competent on trips of several hundred miles. [with one sticking point... as jstandefer wrote, 5th gear is TOO short. I would like a substantially longer gear or 6th speed]
  • mhallackmhallack Member Posts: 32
    I haven't found what I would consider an EQ, but there are NUMEROUS ways to adjust the subwoofer. I've been fairly impressed with the stereo, but it will take a little while to figure out how to best adjust it: you do have to have a special degree to read the instruction booklet. ;^)

    It's funny, but the car seems most fun to me with the windows down at 45-55 mph. One of the reasons being that the sound system is fantastic at drowning the wind noise out. Maybe thats what it was designed for?

    As far as being older than the demographic, I understand that it is supposed to be 19-25, but I'm 32 (and have chatted online with some MP3 owners who I believe are older). Maybe Mazda was shooting for the wrong demo?

    There are quite a few MP3 owners over at madzamp3.com's forum. You might try there for a better answer to your stereo question.
  • yooper53yooper53 Member Posts: 286
    My cdplayer just ate Lynyrd Skynyrd (circa late '70s)There's no "disc in" indication light, no eject function, no vol, not even am/fm. Hate to go to the dealer unless I have to. Any ideas?? Thanks Dennis MI
  • fowler3fowler3 Member Posts: 1,919
    Have any of you had the tranny jerk as you accelerate? It's happened twice in my 2001 LX 2.0 when accelerating from 40mph. There's a sudden jerking motion,rpm's drop, and a loud Klunking sound. Then everything runs smoothly.

    fowler3
  • yooper53yooper53 Member Posts: 286
    Jeez, that don't sound good. If it was me I'd be standing tall at the dealer serv. dept. @0730 tomorrow. Keep us posted. Dennis MI
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Member Posts: 1,265
    Try disconnecting the battery cables. Then reconnect them to the battery and start the car. This might reset the CD player. I saw this done at Lancaster Mazda Toyota, where I purchased my Protege's. It worked for a guy with a Toyota Camry Solara. He had a CD stuck in the player and the guy who drives the dealerships shuttle bus, suggested this fix. Bingo!! It worked perfectly.

    Good Luck,
    Larry
  • bondobobbondobob Member Posts: 34
    Thanks, MHallack for the reply. I'm 41 (so way outside the target demo), and would never have bought a run-of-the-mill Protege. However, as I couldn't buy the PT Cruiser with the Touring Options and a five speed, I started looking for something interesting. I bought a 2001 Durango a year ago, but my wife drives that all the trip except for trips. I figured I'd get something that scats and doesn't suck up quite as much ga$.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Take the heel of your hand and whack the dashboard above the CD player (between the radio and the hazard light switch) to get the CD out. My 1999 DX CD player used to do that, and would give back the CD after a good whack or two with the old heel. :)
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    My 2001 Protege ES would not start on Saturday morning. I was driving Friday evening with the radio blasting and the windows and sunroof open, and the music all of a sudden stopped. I was a little worried, thinking I blew something out. When I went back to the car on Saturday morning, it did not start! I called roadside assistance, and they said it would be about an hour. But some nice person at the hotel I was staying in (company affair) gave me a jumpstart. I drove it right to my dealer after that and left it. They turned it off and restarted it like 3 times, and it turned right back over. They will call tomorrow and tell me if there is anything wrong with it.

    What gets me is that I bought a second Protege (I had a 1999 DX model) because the first was so reliable. This one seems to be a little troublesome (alignment issues, steering wheel was installed crooked but fixed under TSB, and brake rotors warped). I am starting to think I could have got my second choice, the Jetta, and had the same or less problems with it. I still do like the car, but am just a little disappointed with it, especially since I only have 9800 miles.
  • fowler3fowler3 Member Posts: 1,919
    Thinking about the jerking problem, I recall that both times it was when I was accelerating from 40mph and then let up on the gas pedal momentarily. It could have been due to that, right at the shift point from 3rd gear to 4th gear I let up, and the tranny jerked when I gave it more gas.You can't speed up and slow down at the same time at a shift point. ;)

    Dennis, when you disconnect the battery to get the CD out, you will have to reset the clock and all radio stations. But try it! Better than having the dealer's service people take the whole thing apart.

    fowler3
  • draymond2draymond2 Member Posts: 134
    Anyone know the new rebate/financing info??
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    Last Friday I took my '99 ES in for a four-wheel alignment and tire rotation. With the 0.0% financing available again (and not wanting to spend $2,000 in maintenance and repairs over the next 10,000 miles), I decided to "play" with the numbers and see if it was feasible to trade the '99 in for a 2001 ES.

    They appraised the car for trade-in. Needless to say, I still have $4,100 negative equity even though the loan is half-way paid off. Unfortunately, my car can only retail (realistically, not Kelley Blue Book) for about $8,500, so you can imagine trade-in value. I figure I will be at the 3.5 year mark into the loan before I catch up with depreciation. But this is about right since Mazda predicts 39-42mos before a loan catches up with depreciation on a Protege ES.

    Anyways, they wanted $3,500 down since most finance companies will only finance 120% of the vehicle (tax, title, and license here in California is about 10%). The car I was looking at was a black 2001 Protege ES 2.0 5-spd with the power moonroof, 6-disc changer, perimeter alarm, painted mirrors, wheel locks, and carpeted floor mats. It was a nice looking car, but after taking an extended test drive, I determined it was not worth all that extra money since it really wasn't much of an up-grade (more on that later).

    So I was seriously looking at leasing a 2001 626 ES-V6 5-spd. That was definitely worth paying extra money for with it's V6, leather, wood, Bose sound system, smooth ride, and much quieter interior. Plus, the $2,500 rebate eats up a lot of the negative equity on my car. However, I decided the keep my car until I am nearly caught up the depreciation, and then it's bye-bye Protege. My serious hold-up right now is that Mazda will be doing a product blitz in the next three years with an all-new Protege, all-new 626 replacement, all-new Miata, all-new RX-8, and an all-new replacement for the Millenia.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Member Posts: 2,405
    I've had a similar issue when I am at very low speed (i.e. when turning a corner and going over a speed bump at the same time). When I turn the corner I am in second, but then if I have to go slower, I'll put it into first. At that point, I will let up on the clutch, and when I go to touch the gas the car jerks forward 3 or 4 times. If I depress the clutch it stops. Perhaps this is just driving error, but I never experienced this in my g/f's '91 Jetta GL. I hope it's nothing...let me know what you find out Fowler!

    Also, I took the Pro on a road-trip this past weekend. First, I have to say that I found the Pro to be very fun and comfortable for the trip. Handled great and had lots of passing power.
    Now onto my problem: I was intending to drive the entire trip, but the g/f said she was bored so I let her drive. 30 minutes later, I've got a nice paint chip out of the middle of my hood!!! Where the chip is, there is now way a hood deflector of bra would have helped out at all. Anywho, does anybody have any advice in regards to fixing the chip? Is it best just to put some touch-up paint on? Any advice on using touch-up paint? The chip is fairly small...maybe only a few millimeters across, but it is fairly noticeable. Any advice is appreciated.

    Protege_fan
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    What is the replacement that is planned for the Millenia? I thought it was dead unless you are reffereing to the Nextourer concept that was shown recently.
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    With all of the hype Mazda is putting on the improvements for 2001, I was a bit disappointed.

    Here's what's better on the 2001 compared to the 1999:
    - Quieter (not by much, but it is a very slight-bit quieter)
    - Higher gearing (about 500rpm less at 80mph)
    - Nicer interior
    - Better brake feel

    Here's what I like about the 1999 compared to the 2001:
    - Quicker throttle response
    - Quicker handling response
    - Better sound system (2001 sounds flat no matter how adjusted)

    Basically, the 2001 went through some slight refinement. However, the 1999 fits the zoom-zoom motto much better than the 2001. The 1999 just feels quicker and more nimble. The 2001 has much lighter controls (throttle, clutch, brake), but it always feels like their is a lag time between driver input and the car's reaction.

    In my opinion, the 1.8L has more of a sporty growl, where the 2.0L seems to have more of a groan. I think the 2001 has grown a bit too heavy on the scales. The unibody's extra reinforcement, the extra sound insulation, the larger wheels, the larger brakes, the standard fog lamps, and the standard spoiler all add up and it just sounds and feels like the engine, although larger, is struggling with the weight.
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    The Millenia is dead after the 2002 model year, but most analysts are calling for a near-luxury cross-over vehicle for 2004, similar to the Nextourer concept (but hopefully much better looking!). Mercury is also supposed to receive a version of it.

    BTW, thanks for your extremely quick response on Friday. Although I ended up not needing it, I certainly appreciate your help!! Thanks again!!
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Member Posts: 1,583
    For a paint chip that small (a few mm) some touch-up paint should do the job. It's not going to be perfect, but it'll make the chip less noticeable. The key thing when applying touch-up paint is NEVER USE THE BRUSH ON THE BOTTLE CAP, it's too big for detail application. I've used toothpicks and fine bristle paintbrushs and they do a much better job.

    And if you messed up the touch-up and want to start over, some nail polish remover will easily wipe it off.
  • duntulmduntulm Member Posts: 4
    Yooper
    Same thing happened to my 01 ES. Just pop the radio/player fuse then re-insert it and the disk should eject. Dealer did this for me without embarrassment. It happened with 2 hrs left on a (boring) road trip. Good luck.
  • mileagemileage Member Posts: 9
    please recommend tires for a 99 protege
  • momgraymomgray Member Posts: 18
    Okay, I keep hearing about 0.0% financing, but I can't find details here at Edmunds (they show that the 1.9 for up to 36 and 4.9 for 48-60 has been extended). Can someone else tell me the scoop? What is the term? How long is this offer good for (expiration date?) I even looked on the Mazda site and couldn't find anything. It is in the paper, but you know how informative those adds are.

    TIA.
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