Mazda Protegé

djmax813 · July 2001

I finally had a chance to take my 01 Pro Es out on a long drive. Went to to Poconos with wife and infant son. It was a good chance to see how it felt on long haul (3hrs). To my suprise it was very comfortable. Also got to open it up on the hiway. Got to near 90 mph for a short burst. No problems there. AC worked extremely well as did the stereo. I only have 2200 miles on the car but i am very impressed so far. Also avg. 28 mpg. I suppose that will get better as the car gets more broken in. Hope everyone has good experiences too!

jstandefer · July 2001

The 0.0% APR is for 48 months and is offered on the 2001 Protege sedans only (not Protege5 or MP3). This special finance rate is in lieu of the rebate, not in combination. It just started this month. I do not know how long it will last.

vocus · July 2001

The dealer checked the car from front to back and everything in between, and no problems. Guess the car is just haunted or something then. Can't wait to see how many more times my 4.5 month old car decides not to start. I looked at a Hyundai Elantra GT today, and it was really nice. My ES better behave, or else...

fowler3 · July 2001

I have an AT in the LX 2.0, but that jerking was similar to your's. I went around a corner, probably in second, onto an On-ramp leading slightly down hill onto an expressway. At about38mph to 40mph I first accelerated then let up on the throttle a little -- that's when it jerked the engine. May have been at the shift point from 3rd to 4th.

I'll try the same route tomorrow and see what happens.

If you think the Protegé is the only car with probems, or it doesn't drive the way you think it should, read some of the other car posts.

I was surprised that the Lexus LS 430 (and older models) have problems and those cars cost $67K now. One that bugs their owners is "throttle tip-in".

Or how about the service tech who filled up the gas tank on a new Rolls Royce, started the engine and the car blew up! That was $118,000 up in smoke. Nothing is perfect, especially cars. Lexus is still in persuit of perfection and so is RR.

fowler3

fowler3 · July 2001

Protege_fan, go to an art supply store, if they still exist in your area, and buy a small watercolor paint brush. Preferably one that comes to a point when you moisten the bristles. Dip only the tip into the retouch paint bottle.

Then paint slowly from the center of the chip outward to the body paint. Let it set up, add more later, etc. etc. until the layers are about the height of the rest of the paint. Do NOT overlap the edges around the chip hole.

Don't make a blob. It's better to leave it lower than to apply too much and have a bump.

fowler3

protege_fan · July 2001

Thanks for the advice Fowler. But, when I look at the chip I can see where the rock struck the paint but did not "chip" it down to the sheet metal. Instead there is a whitish scratch mark (I'm assuming that the rock just scratched the clear coat). Anyway, you're saying that I should not put any paint there? Let me know! I want to fill in this chip ASAP, but I want to do it right! Thanks

Protege_fan

theparallax · July 2001

...showing the striking similarity between the new Subaru WRX and the Mazda MP3: http://www.geocities.com/wagoiv/index.htm

yooper53 · July 2001

Went out to the car next a.m. to disconnect battery and decided to get the mail first. I fired it up and as I was backing out it started playing and ejected when I pressed eject ??? Anyway I marked your much appreciated replies in my msg center in case it recurs.Thanks.

mdaffron · July 2001

If someone else already posted this link earlier, my apologies. I found it this morning. These guys are tough but fair reviewers ... it pays to read the whole thing because the summary puts it all in perspective.

BTW, make sure you click on the interior movie and turn on your speakers! It's a laugh!

http://www.thecarplace.com/protege5.htm

Meadeball

momgray · July 2001

Now to get my husband to test drive it and fall in love. I'm hoping that if he really likes it, we can get the s-plan pricing and the 0.0/48 month financing and be within our budget. If all this happens I'll be back with the good news!

Now my new question - has anyone succesfully put in a booster car seat and an infant car seat (you know the big bulky ones that are rear facing) in the back seat? That's one of the things we're bringing to the dealer to check out (it looked possible, but better to check it out first...) I seem to remember a way early post (maybe previous board?) about this, but wasn't sure it was for the 2001....

TIA, looking forward to that family test drive on Saturday.

Julia

protegenic · July 2001

I found that reveiw last night, and you are right, his parting shots sums everything up pretty well. This is one of my favorite places for reviews as Mr. Bowdon does a good job of telling it like it is (at least in his eyes). BTW, he is also very responsive to e-mails if you ever have any questions about a review.

mdaffron · July 2001

We have a 2000 Protege ES, and while it doesn't have the new LATCH system your Protege has, the back seat is still the same size. We have an Evenflo "My Way Position Right" rear-facing child seat in the Protege for our 7-week-old. I had to move the front passenger seat up about half-way not as much for the seat itself but for the swing-arm carrying handle that must be swung down forward of the seat for travel.

That's OK with my wife for now, because she still likes to ride in the back seat beside Sean when we all go places together in the Protege.

Eventually, when the seat becomes a forward-facing seat, we can put the front passenger seat wherever we like.

Remember to read your owner's manual so you do the installation correctly!

Meade

momgray · July 2001

I imagine that we'll put the booster behind the driver (so either short me or tall husband can drive) and the infant behind the passenger (where either noone or short me will be). Yes, center is ideal, but I'm not sure that we can do side for booster and center for infant and still be able to drive the car even if it does fit!

If everything fits and everyone likes it, our next debate will be LX w/lots of extras (moonroof etc) or LX 2.0 with just auto & LX comfort pkg for a/c ....I'm thinking standard LX with extras since the primary use will be commuting in Chicago traffic at 15 mph most days & not too much zoom zoom use.

Thanks again and again, your reply really helped.

mdaffron · July 2001

If you can afford the slight increase in price of the ES over the LX, you won't be sorry. The ES has many features you pay extra for on the LX as standard equipment, and the extra engine size isn't just for "zoom zooming" -- a larger engine can be more reliable in the long run, not to mention help when it comes to highway passing, on-ramps, etc.

My first thought for our child seat was the center position -- but the center lap belt attachment points are too close together. Mazda may have solved that problem when it introduced the new LATCH system for baby seats with the 2001 model. I'd recommend taking your seat (or its base, in my case) to the dealer and trying the fit.

Meade

nematode · July 2001

Best: 33mpg. No AC, cruise, all highway. Can anyone beat that with the 2.0 auto ES?

Worst: 24mpg. Did you see Fast and Furious? Just kidding...It was mostly highway but AC was on all the time, 4 people, and I was doing 70-80mph.

Overall: 27mpg. 80% highway commute. Thats pretty good considering my wifes Outback Ltd. get 22mpg driven the same way.

momgray · July 2001

and that's the stupid godzilla bar on the back.

I just really hate them.

I know, I know, it's a small thing - but I wish it were optional.

I'll number crunch on the ES and see how it fits with our budget, though, to keep my options open.

protegenic · July 2001

Or you could do what I did and ask if they can exchange the trunk lid with another car of the same color. The dealer had installed a spoiler on my car, but I told them I didn't want it. Of course, it wasn't standard equipment then, but I am sure somebody else getting an LX or DX wouldn't mind getting a spoiler.

vocus · July 2001

I like the style of the rear spoiler on the ES. I think it finishes the back end off rather nicely. It also helps when backing up in tight spaces, because you know almost exactly where the back ends. And also, the 3rd brake light is an LED type with the spoiler, which is quicker to illuminate and easier to see from further away. Not to mention LEDs should last the life of the car.

protegenic · July 2001

Good point about the safety benefits, but I guess it really is subjective.

OK, my wife and I are looking at a new family sedan to replace the minivan. We had a discussion a few weeks back here on this subject, and I was leaning toward the V6 Accord. I see on Edmunds TMV that I can get a Millenia P for about the same price. While I realize the Accord is a great car (and probably the safer purchase), I just have a problem driving around a car that everybody else has. What do you folks think?

maltb · July 2001

The Millenia P is a fancy 626 but built in Japan. If it's in the same price range, go for it...but I'm biased.

jstandefer · July 2001

The Millenia has less interior room than the Protege, so I would not recommend it as a family car. Plus, with the Millenia's extra weight, the only engine I would even consider would be the 210hp 2.3L Miller-Cycle in the Millenia S. The 2.5L and automatic transmission in the Millenia P is the same used in the 626 LX-V6/ES-V6.

If I were you, I would take a look at the 626. You should easily be able to pick up a 626 ES-V6 for well under $22k fully loaded. Here's a pricing example on the 626:

2001 Mazda 626 ES-V6 ($22,935)
- 2.5L DOHC V6
- Leather & Wood Trim
- Power Driver's Seat
- Bose Audio System with CD & Cassette
- Power Moonroof
- Anti-theft System w/ Keyless Entry & Engine Immobilizer
- Power Everything
- Cruise Control
- 16" Alloy Wheels
- 4-Wheel Disc Brakes
* Automatic Transmission ($800)
* 6-Disc In-Dash CD Changer ($225)
* ABS, Side Airbag, Traction Control ($950)
* Foglights ($250)
> Destination Charge ($480)

$25,640 MSRP + Options + Destination
-$2,500 Factory Rebate
-$1,378 Discount ($800 or 3.5% Profit)
----------------------------------------
$21,762 Price After Discount and Rebate

The 626 offers the most interior room and trunk space of any Mazda sedan. The 626 has 6.1 cubic feet of extra interior space and a trunk that's 1.2 cubic feet larger compared to the Millenia. Plus, the 626 gets better fuel mileage and has excellent crash test scores. As long as you stay away from the 4-cyl automatic models, the 626 is super reliable.

There are a few specials running on the 626 right now. There's the $2,500 factory rebate OR there's a reduced rebate with special financing. If you get an LX or LX-V6 model, Mazda is giving you the luxury package for free. The luxury package adds the power moonroof, alloy wheels, power driver's seat, floor mats, heated mirrors, and an anti-theft system with engine immobilizer.

fowler3 · July 2001

OK, I thought you meant the rock chipped down to the base coat or metal. If it's just the clear coat that is a different story. Check it to see if the
white mark is dust from the stone or light defracting through the chipped clear coat. It might come off if it is dust (limestone). On other cars, I have been able to rub off paint left by door scrapes, no ding in the metal.

What I was saying about a small pointed brush, you want to fill the hole but not overlap the remaining paint. Overlaping the paint makes it thicker, a losing battle. The brush should be an artist's No."1" or a No."2". nothing larger.

Maybe dealers have bottles of clear coat, ask if they do. Make sure it's that or paint.

fowler3

fowler3 · July 2001

That really was music to your ears, when the CD started playing again.

fowler3

yooper53 · July 2001

re:the CD..it was a pleasant surprise. I stored the other advice in msg center.

duntulm · July 2001

I was told the cause of the CD problem was physically pushing on the disk too much to get it to feed. same in your case? Regardless, problem solved!

chikoo · July 2001

********by fowler***************
At about38mph to 40mph I first accelerated then let up on the throttle a little -- that's when it jerked the engine. May have been at the shift point from 3rd to 4th.

I'll try the same route tomorrow and see what happens.
*****************************
REASON:
The protege is "maybe" the only car in the USA that has it's engine mounted on 3 rubber mounts...one of them on the firewall...which ends up transmitting all the engine vibrations to the passenger cabin floor.

So in case of sudden gear changes or sudden change in throttle, the rubber mounts provide an undamped engine motion.

all other cars have Hydraulic mounts which are the best to absorb engine jerks.

protege_fan · July 2001

Hey good advice about the clear coat...was wondering about that. Anyway, the rock did both; it went to the sheet metal, but also just damaged the clear coat. Sorry 'bout the confusion...but thanks for the advice! I was told to try using a toothpick to put the paint in. Probably not nearly as precise as a no. 1 or 2 paintbrush, but I'm gonna try the toothpick route first.

maltb · July 2001

When you say hydraulic mounts, exactly what do you mean?

vocus · July 2001

I was driving again yesterday, and my radio stopped again. But this time, the car started back up after I turned it off. And, after about 20 mins., the radio came back on too. I was playing it almost all the way up (cruising @80 with sunroof/windows open). You all think maybe the radio is too powerful for the speakers, and is cutting off or something, like a fail-safe thing? Maybe that's it. I know I am getting fed up with this car though. I wish I would have kept the DX now. If I would have known I was going to have all this drama, I would have kept the DX or bought the Jetta instead of the Protege.

chikoo · July 2001

I mean oil filled dampers, not solid rubber.
you can see them in the Tribute or the Ford Focus.

chikoo · July 2001

and thanks maltb.
I finally have got the car idling adjusted so that it does not jerk when the A/c come on....without making the idle rough.

jstandefer · July 2001

Now you know how I felt when my '99 ES came back with such negative equity. I was so hoping to get into the 626 ES-V6... If you've never driven a Mazda 2.5L V6 with a 5-spd, you don't know what you are missing. I've driven this combo in the 626, Probe GT, and MX-6 LS, and it is just so smooth and powerful... oh well... I figure once I hit the 3.5 year mark in my loan, I will break even...

On hydraulic dampers... to Mazda's credit, I will have to say that even with the solid mounts, the engines are so smooth that you would think they did have hydraulic mounts.

jstandefer · July 2001

I don't know what idiots at Mazda specified the sound system. The head unit is able to produce 32 watts per channel (4 channels). However, the factory Pioneer speakers can only take 25 watts maximum. However, I have never had my radio cut out on me no matter how loud I play it.

mdaffron · July 2001

Geesh, where do you people get your vocabularies? I'd never heard that one! Around here it's called a "spoiler."

My ES came with the spoiler and now I think any Protege without one looks like it's missing an important design element. (And no, Julia, I'm not 18 ... I'm 36, married, and have a 7-week-old son!)

Like Paul, I've found positive uses for the LED brake light in the spoiler ... but I think my use is even MORE practical. I park in an underground parking deck at work, and the LEDs have a kind of projectionality (if that's a word) to them. I can tell when I'm getting close to the wall because I'll start to see little red circles coming together into focus. Kind of like a "curb feeler" for the back of the car!!!

Something else I found out ... all of you with spoilers may want to try this. I started hearing a vibrating noise in my rear deck, and I got back there one day while I was cleaning my windows and popped off the deck-mounted center brake light housing. (It just snaps onto the deck -- I popped mine off with a flat-bladed screwdriver.)

Turns out, when they hooked up my spoiler and integrated brake light, they simply disabled the deck-mounted center brake light by just unplugging its lead! Even the bulb was still in it! The vibrating noise I heard was the disconnected pigtail lead shaking around! Not knowing exactly what to do with this loose wire, I simply plugged it back in -- and now EVERYBODY notices my brake lights, since I now have FOUR!!!

Meade

maltb · July 2001

I'm familiar with the oil filled rubber mounts, but my experience with them in the past is that the oil leaks out when the car is only several years old and then you have an even worse situation. Maybe they have gotten better in recent years. Some manufacturers employ what is called a torque strut to suppress FWD engine movement, but others(like the Protege) have just placed the mounts on different planes to alleviate such conditions.

BTW, the '00 Civic uses the same type of mounts that the Protege uses. Not sure about the '01.

vocus · July 2001

Malt and Jerry: What can I do about the radio unit though? Keep in mind that I have a 2001, and not a 1999 or 2000 like you, Jerry. I am just tired of my radio cutting out, and the dealer won't fix it unless he can see the problem.

Meade: The 2001 ES models (which have the spoiler standard) don't come with the 3rd brake light in the back window. They only have the LED light in the spoiler. So I didn't have to worry about the housing and all in the back window. Also, my upper anchors for child seats are neatly integrated into the package shelf, not just sitting there loose (hate the look of them in the 2000s).

On another point, my co-worker has a 2000 silver ES sedan with Premium Pkg. with 15K on it. She said she never had a day's problem with it yet and loves it.

The no-start condition I received the other day did bother me. Especially since there was nothing wrong, according to the technicians' tests and all. Now the radio. What's gonna go next? And I can't trade the car in, because I owe $18K on the loan (only 4 months paid thus far), and I know the car (with 10K now) is only worth about $12K or so. I would be way too upside down.

And Jerry, I have never driven the 5-speed V6 model. I can't drive a stick anyway.

maltb · July 2001

Did you notice if the engine light came on at all when that happened? Did the headlights or interior lights dim? There could be some issue with the charging system, but it sould have let you know in other ways. I'm wondering if the radio could have malfunctioned and caused an excess drain overnight on the battery. One word: Strange.

newcar31 · July 2001

If you would have bought the Jetta, you would have been statistically more likely to have problems than the Protoge. If the Protoge is ranked very good for reliability, and the Jetta is average at best, I don't know why you would even consider the Jetta. Its like saying that a california cheeseburger is too plain, give me a grilled cheese sandwich. Sounds like you need a Toyota Corolla, the gold standard of reliability in this class.....ACK!!!!

chikoo · July 2001

maltb,
sure the oil could leak...but the rubber mounts too will crack due to aging and the extreme heat inside the hood.
anyway, point bieng that sudden changes in torque like what Fowler experienced cannot be damped by the rubber mounts...they are way too elastic and bound to springback the moment you take your foot off the gas pedal after pushing it down.

vocus · July 2001

I was driving on the highway on a 25-mile trip, and the radio just stopped. When I got to my destination, I parked and locked the car as normal. Nothing was left on inside, no different lights on the dash, nothing. Next morning, I come out to start the car. The remote unlocks and flashes the lights as always, and I get in. Even the door chime for the key sounded. Turn the key, and nothing but TICK, TICK, TICK. That tells me the alternator is bad. No go. They tested the alternator, battery, and starter system and it was all fine. Anyway, drive 70 miles to the dealership and don't turn the car off the whole time for fear I will be stranded again. So I get to the dealer, and he turns off the car. I tell him to restart for the hell of it, and BAM! it starts right up! I was befuddled! I could not fricking believe it.

So I was driving yesterday, with the radio almost all the way up and the windows/sunroof open. Radio cuts off 30 mins. after I turned it on. So I turned it off. Tried it again like 10 mins. later, and it came right back on as normal. Also, the car started fine the past couple days too. I don't get it.

This kinda thing in a car with only 10K on it really does get to me. I sometimes feel let down by the car, and it really makes me mad. And from the posts I have been reading the past couple days, other people are not having the perfect reliability with their 2001 Proteges either.

fritz1224 · July 2001

momgray · July 2001

I think it's just a matter of taste - and as I mentioned, I know it's a small thing to have such an aversion to; I also know that if that's the ONLY thing between me and the car, it won't stop me buying the car.

Using the LED as a "backing device" makes some sense. Does the spoiler limit the rear view and is the trade off worth it?

and it sure does make it easier for Godzilla to pick the car for a snack :-)

Also, I seem to be confused (or didn't do my math aright). It seems the invoice of a LX 2.0 with the comfort package (for a/c) and auto is about 15092; the invoice of an ES (which has air standard) with auto is 15725 --- and the only other "major" difference are interior styling, spoiler and tires. Did I miss anything? Are those worth $700 more?

TIA, y'all are a big help.

fritz1224 · July 2001

Seems to me you have the dreaded "intermittent electrical problem". See what fuse you can pull that will make the cd player stop working and when you pull it will the car start? Was there any juice to anything when the car wouldn't start(i.e lights, horn, dash diagnostic lights, etc.)? The more specific you can be when the problem occurs, the greater liklihood the dealer will find the problem. Just make sure that each and every time you bring it in for this that you get paperwork from the service dept. accurately describing your complaint and what they did to resolve it.
Having a receipt from the tow truck operator would help also in confirming there at least there WAS a problem. Maybe skip on the good samaritan's help if it happens again.
An hour's wait for help doesn't sound too responsive to me. I kept my AAA membership and after reading about you experience with roadside assistance, glad I did.
I know, probably opened up a can of worms about AAA now, but that should be another thread.

vocus · July 2001

There was juice to nothing. On the 2001 ES, if you leave one of the doors ajar a little (enough to leave the light inside on), the remote will not let the horn beep for lock confirmation. It beeped that Friday night when I parked the car. I had the dealer check the starter, fuel injection system, battery, alternator, and everything. Nothing wrong with anything. And also, I don't understand why the car wouldn't start that morning, but fired right up after driving for 70 miles, and no loss of power the whole time (had the AC and stereo running the whole time too).

Also, the roadside assistance told me it would be about 45 mins., but I was in an underground garage too. I just got a jump because I didn't have time to wait, and they wouldn't have been able to get to the car anyway. They were very attentive on the phone though, which is good.

With the radio, I think there is a loose connection somewhere. But I have to prove it to the dealer before they will do anything about it. That is a pain in my rear-end. I can't make the radio stop playing though, it does it automatically. It is just annoying in a brand new car though. I tell you what, I will NEVER buy another Protege again, or Mazda for that matter. And if I could trade this car right at this second without losing my shirt in negative equity, I would do it so fast the dealer's head would spin around.

I appear not to be the only one though. I mean, catalytic converters going up, blower fans going for no reason? Cars not starting for no reason? Come on now. I mean, did we all get a Foci and don't know it yet or what?????

the_big_h · July 2001

3 2001's having semi-major(not starting is very major though) problems popping up on this board, all within relatively short time to each other. Could it be because they're the first shipped batch of 01's, and the kinks have not been worked out? I wonder if this many problems would pop up for the newer batch of 01's, namely the ones that came with body-color side mirrors.... Only time will tell I suppose...

vocus · July 2001

Time is going to tell alot for me too. If this stuff keeps happening to my 2001 ES, it will be gone quicker than it got here.

I called Mazda customer service about my radio problem too. They are setting up an appt. for me to bring the car in and have the mechanics (with technical assistance from Mazda) go over the vehicle and find out what the problem is with my radio. We will see what happens with it though.

fritz1224 · July 2001

That's a start. Asking why it did this then did that is the nature of intermittent. But when you say there was power to nothing that tells me the problem is somewhere between the battery and the main fuse panel. Maybe even the connection of the two. Did you get your last visit to the dealer about this problem documented?
The radio should be the least of your worries. Having a car that you can't depend on is a much bigger deal.

jstandefer · July 2001

Here's what you get as standard on the ES 2.0 that you don't get as standard on the LX 2.0 with comfort package.

4-wheel disc brakes
Rear spoiler
Front fog lights
16" alloy wheels
50 Series Dunlop Tires (much better than the LX Bridgestone Potenza's)
Remote keyless entry system
Power glass moonroof (currently free on ES)

Here are those items above which are optional on the LX 2.0 and how much they would cost you:

Rear spoiler $330
Front fog lights $250
Remote keyless entry $100
Power glass moonroof $700

That's $1,380 of equipment you would have to add to the LX 2.0, and you still don't get the 4-wheel disc brakes, 16" alloy wheels, or the more aggressive Dunlop tires. In addition, the ES has the extra cosmetic treatments such as the off-black interior, white gauges, silver interior trim, argent grill and headlight treatment, and ES seats (more side and lumber bolstering).

I would definitely say the extra $700 for the ES 2.0 is worth it.

jstandefer · July 2001

and I'm not sure who it was. However, the writer told me that they had a lot of problems with their '99 Protege. They wrote Mazda detailing their problems and Mazda gave them a 7 year/100,000 mile warranty for free! Maybe I should try that...

boggse · July 2001

I traded my 2000 Jetta GLX in on my Silver 2001 Protege ES 5-speed with the premium package. The Jetta was constantly in the garage, but just enough to avoid the Lemon law. I also found the seats to be very painful on my back on trips over 2 hours long. I sort of miss the hp and tourque, but not the hefty payment, slush box, or gas bill. The best thing about the Jetta was that it depreciated well enough that I could trade it in on a Protege after a year and not owe anything.

On another issue, has anyone gotten a K&N air filter for the 2.0L engine yet? Will the one for the 1.8L work, or should I get the one for the 2.0L 626? Please let me know if you guys have the info.

Mazda Protegé

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