Mazda Protegé

dannyg · February 2001

Anyone out there buy a 2001 LX, either the 2.0 or the base 1.6? Comments? How is your MPG? It seems most people in this forum have the ES.

My mother has a 1999 LX auto, and I'm thinking of picking up a 2001 LX 5sp in the spring, either the 1.6 or the 2.0.

I fully realize the ES has more power. But for me, MPG is important. I've gotten 35MPG in my mother's LX (200mi trip, 80% hwy) & I'd like to do the same in my car.

mpgman · February 2001

Test drove both, and thought the OO ES seat track let you move the driver's seat farther back than the 01, creating more leg room. Fact or fiction? Seemed liked at least an inch or two to me. Thanks.

jumpmom · February 2001

Thanks Larry! Your encouragement is much, much appreciated! Actually test driving the Civic is what led us to the Protege then on to the 626. We thought our budget was in the 98/99 Honda Accord range but when test driving I actually thought they seemed too big (now I know that they are bigger than my 1990 Accord) We tried the Civic and since I have the S plan went on to try the Protege for comparison. (by the way we also tried the Focus several times because I have the Z plan- slightly strange car, but my main complaint is that I had no rear visability) Yesterday we went back for yet another test drive and for us the Protege isn't the right car for right now- I am sad for that but confident in my decision... But hmmmm lets see- my husband's 1992 Grand Am may need a new home soon and the Protege hatchback comes out this spring so maybe... we will end up as a mazdaXtwo family! Thanks to all!

To mhgsx- we are actually in the Cincinnati area- but I am glad you got such a good deal! Have fun- zoom-zoom! Lynn

protegextwo · February 2001

Lynn, so you are plannning on purchasing the 2001 Mazda 626?

Larry

zennish · February 2001

My Protege ES is fun to drive and handles very well even in wet road.The low profile tires is great!It is very predictable.It is one of the better little cars out there.I only have 250 miles on it.I have owned civics and accords in the past and this one definitely handles better.It looks a lot better in and out than most cars in its class.I love this car!!!

vocus · February 2001

I love this car more and more everyday! I drove it again today, and have almost 200 miles on it already. Picked it up on Friday night around 8 with only 2 miles on it.

Took some interior and exterior pics soon as I got it home, but they might not turn out because it was dark outside and the car is black.

The handling is great, but I need to get past the break-in mileage. Staying below 4000 rpm is SOOO hard! I actually went over once or twice, but only by 100 or 200 rpm, so that's not too bad. It flies evem keeping the revs low. I am about to fill the tank for the first time, so I will tell everyone how my fuel economy is thus far. Also, I have been 65/35% highway/city thus far. I can't wait to get up in the morning and take it to work for the first time tomorrow! Did I mention, I LOVE THIS CAR?!?!?!

ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM!

protegextwo · February 2001

The ES is worth the extra $!!

the_big_h · February 2001

be warned, you are quickly becoming a zoom zoom addict, such as myself. Before you know it you'll be trying to find ANY excuse (like going to an auto show that was 130 miles away and DIDN'T have ANY Mazdas on display) just to get in your Pro and get your zoom-zoom fix for the day. (btw driving a total of 260 miles up and down I-95 in 1 day with speeds sometimes exceeding 90 on straightaways FEEL GREAT)

you have been warned... But enjoy anyway!

H

vocus · February 2001

I am ALREADY a ZOOM ZOOM addict now with the ES!

And proud of it too! And the ES is DEFINITELY worth the extra money.

vocus · February 2001

My car is sitting outside in the parking lot and I can hear it calling me.

It's saying, "come on 5pm, it's time to ZOOM ZOOM!"

maltb · February 2001

Paul, just don't tell your boss about your new purchase as I sense a few sick days comming on.

*cough, cough* "I think I feel something comming on". *cough, cough*

vocus · February 2001

That is too cute.

I was just talking to one of my co-workers, and he said I should add synthetic oil to my car at 1000 miles, and also change the oil at 500 miles, but put regular oil back in. At what mileage is it safe to add synthetic oil to the engine?

totustuus · February 2001

Everything I've heard about changing over to a synthetic suggests that you wait until the engine is completely broken in or at least until the first scheduled oil change.....3 to 5k.
The reason for this is that putting synthetic in too early can prevent proper seating of the rings because synthetic is so slippery compared to dyno oil.

vonnyvonce · February 2001

Wish I knew the "real" answer to this question. Letting engine break in completely seems to make sense yet why do Corvette's, Porsche's and even Autozone rebuilds come with Mobil 1 as a factory fill. Can someone explain this contradiction?

chikoo · February 2001

for you to complain ....kidding

man, you really kicked your DX and then praised your pontiac and left her too for the ES.

I cannot imagine what next?

Anyway, have a great ZOOM ZOOM day with your ES.

vocus · February 2001

It's going to be a long wait if you are waiting for a complaint about my new baby.

I love that car more than any before it!

I have to take it and wash it today actually, because it's covered in road salt from the snow we had on Thursday.

I had planned to keep the DX for a long time when I bought it, but it just grew uncomfortable after a year or so. Just got tired of it. I had wanted the ES when I got the DX, but it didn't quite work out that way. This time, the dealer tried to get me to go with a 2000 ES to get rid of it. I told him no, because I knew I would be back in a year or two for the 2001 or 2002 and I wasn't settling anymore. It was my way or the highway. Glad it turned out to be my way.

15 more minutes before 5pm EST, which is ZOOM ZOOM time for me!!!

totustuus · February 2001

Found this on a very technically solid auto enthusiast website. Take it or leave it.

Alan writes:
>A trusted friend of mine said that I will have trouble seating the rings in
>my new engine w/ the Mobil 1 I put in. True? Engine so far has only run 1
>hour and no oil burning evident.
>TIA,
>Alan

Most engine builders use and recommend non synthetic on new engines, since
the final "machining" (seating, mating) of surfaces is done while the new
engine is running. I believe it was Hot Rod Magazine did a long article on
this several years ago. What they reported was that the synthetics really
didn't allow the proper seating of critical interference machined components.
Most builders recommended (and what I go by) dyno oil (shale oil, not sand
oil - ala quaker state, but don't remember why exactly) for the first 2 or 3
oil changes, then switch to synthetic. One of the major builders said 10k
miles, which is about right at 3 oil changes. Although you have no evident
problems, the theory is you really haven't allowed the proper seating, by
using the synthetic from the get go.

Lots of documentation on the controversy of this concept, but most use the
dyno oil for the first x thousand miles/x oil changes of new motor operation,
cuz it certainly isn't hurting anything. The gains are longer term, properly
breaking in a new motor, makes it last longer.

If I remember the article correctly, those that have a new motor with
synthetic in it should add 1 oil change to the dyno oil routine above. If I
can find the article, I will post it up. Right now, your safe bet is to
switch to dyno oil for a few changes, then go back to synthetic.

HTH

Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
QSHIPQ@aol.com

the_big_h · February 2001

uh, the weather forecast says possibly more nasty winter weather coming on Wednesday, but I understand. So go wash your car today and enjoy your 1st full day with a spanking new & clean ES tomorrow. (take the day off from work?)

.... and then back to more salt and dirt... sigh...

H

jk111 · February 2001

Well, I don't think using synthetic is going to be better than regular in the first 10k miles. The engine is so new during this period, I don't think synthetic would have helped much.
I switched to synthetic around 20k miles, and it did make a big difference in terms of quietness and feel (the engine feels at ease on highway.) Now I just need to see if the new bosch platinum plugs are going to help..hehe.

borgf15 · February 2001

Just a couple quick questions for anyone with the knowledge:

Supposedly the "fuelmax" increases fuel effiency with magnets??? Does anyone know if this is a hoax?

Also, the dealer here charges $69 per set for mudguards installed. with that being almost $140 for a some pieces of plastic, it seems a bit steep. Has anyone put these on themselves?

Thanks

hboyd · February 2001

Mudguards are a piece 'o cake to install!! You just need an offset screwdriver (found at Sears for $8 or so) and a little patience. An installation instruction sheet should be in the box or package with the mudguards; if it is missing, bug the part's guy/gal for one. It will take about an hour to install all four.... and it's fun work!!! I did it on my '95 ES and will do it again on my newly acquired '01 ES (need some extra money....arggggg!!!);

MARTIN

browntrout1 · February 2001

Personally, I would just follow what the Protege Manual says. Mazda built the car so I'm sure they know best what should be put into it. I go about every 6000 to 7000 kilometeres between oil changes, Mazda recomends 8000. I think it is a huge waste of time changing the oil at 500 miles...and it sounds about right what people are saying about synthetic oil. I'd leave the oil that comes with the car becuase I'm pretty sure it is "break-in" oil.

From experience, these are tough little engine's. Our 1990 323 1.6L has 260 000kms on it. I really flogged this car when I drove it...and we usually changed the oil 2 to 3 times a year which sometimes worked out to over 12000 kms without an oil change. And you know what, the engine still runs smoother than most new engines!!

protegextwo · February 2001

Well, I am a huge believer in preventive maintenance. At the age of 42, I have owned a few cars and made some poor maintenance decisions, trying to save a buck, lol! Without a doubt regular oil changes is the cheapest insurance for long engine life!

My 2 cents. Call it overkill, some say it is plain wrong, nonetheless; I change oil at 500, 1000 and every 3500 miles there after in any new car I buy. It might be wrong,(Honda Service Advisors, for one makes a point of holding off, on the 1st change until 5000 or so), however I believe clean fresh oil in a new motor is critical to long engine life. For me it works, I have never had ANY engine issues in a vehicle I maintained with those intervals.

agt_cooper · February 2001

have you ever had an engine problem with a car you didn't properly maintain? Was the problem oil-related? If so, what was the problem?

If not, how do you know that the frequent oil changes made a difference?

I'm not challenging your belief, just curious...

vocus · February 2001

I did wash the car last night, at one of those self-service car washes. I don't care if it gets dirty again, but it was covered in road salt which is not good for the paint. Not to mention it looked a mess.

Hey, the car wash is only like $2 or something, so no big deal. I will probably be visiting now at least once a week.

I am going to change the oil at 1000 miles, then at 3500, then every 3500 thereafter. Around 10K, I will change to synthetic. How does that sound?

pkuehn · February 2001

I have a 1998 Pro LX. What type of system does the electric locks use: 3 wire negative, 3 wire postive, etc?

maltb · February 2001

It's a two wire system. If you are installing an alarm, I wish you the best of luck. Here is the wiring diagram, but unless you know how to read it, I suggest you take it to an EXPERIENCED professional, not a hack artist.

Click on the link and then select 98 protege wire.jpg

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/maltbarley?d&.flabel=fld9&.src=ph&start=1

Good Luck,

unmarkedcar · February 2001

Hey guys has anyone noticed this?

AREA: REAR WINDOW DE-FROST element.

Problem: Right wire going to defroster is not bent up. Left one is bent up. Is this normal? I think someone did not push the connector up.

If you have no idea what I am talking about, let me know.

murrieta · February 2001

We have made the decision to purchase the Protege ES model. Could I please have some clarification on the "S" plan purchase. With the "S" plan do you purchase the car at 1.5% below dealer invoice and then still get whatever factory rebate is available for either the 2000 or 2001 model year? If that is the case it would seem that even with the $1500 rebate currently on 2000 models that the 2001 with more standard features would be the better buy. Pros and Cons? Carsdirect.com shows the 2000 ES at about $13,100 plus t&l but the 2001 ES at only about $200 below retail, lots of difference. It would appear with the "S" plan that the price differential would be much less on the 2001. Thanks for your input.

protegextwo · February 2001

Ian, in pure truth, for me regular oil changes represent a commitment to a complete preventive maintenance program. I realize that fresh clean oil in a engine, basically prevents premature wear. Nonetheless, the process of taking stock of your vehicle's needs every 3500 miles is important to me. In my post "oil, oil, and more oil", I only stated my belief; "with out a doubt a regular oil change is the cheapest insurance for long engine life!" and I think that statement is beyond question. BTW, I am sure the majority of auto tech professionals would agree with that practice. However, I also state, "...I have NEVER had any engine issues in a vehicle a maintained with those intervals.", again for me taking stock of what preventative maintenance is needed every 3500 miles has contributed to a lack of problems with my cars. Ian, probably just as important IMHO, is purchasing autos from manufactures with a excellent reliability, build quality reputation, the two Mazda's, three Toyota's lasted much longer than the four Ford's I owned.

Respectfully;
Larry

hkchan · February 2001

Everything you said is true except the part about which is a better buy. I'll take the '01 just like you, but others may prefer a '00 with a lower initial price.

agt_cooper · February 2001

you seem a bit offended and/or defensive. My aim was not to offend, but to gain a bit more information, so my apologies if that's not how you saw it.

In your first post, you stated "For me it works, I have never had ANY engine issues in a vehicle I maintained with those intervals." To me, that insinuates that you did in fact have problems with vehicles you didn't maintain in this fashion.

My post was simply a request to hear about those cases. I too change the oil in my Mazda 626 religiously at 4000 mile intervals, using Mobil 1, but I continuously wonder if such devotion is necessary. Since this is the way I've always done it, I have nothing with which to compare.

vocus · February 2001

My car (2001 ES 2.0 with Premium Pkg., auto., and cassette) invoiced for $17,141. I paid $16,7-- or so for it before the rebate. I got the $750 rebate and also had the negative equity. My total came to like $21,000 or something like that.

I have to take the car back to the dealer because I am getting the cargo net installed on 3/17. I was also thinking about a nose mask too, but too lazy to take it off every time it rains or I wash it.

I just drove to lunch on the Capital Beltway for a bit. It's about 65-70 degrees here in Md. today. I had the sunroof open, the CD player going, and the windows down. GOD I didn't wanna come back to work! I definitely have a BAD case of ZOOMitis!! And PROUD OF IT!!!

3 hours and 33 minutes left until 5pm when I get to ZOOM again!

collegedad · February 2001

I am helping my daughter to decide what car to buy. She graduates from high school in the summer and will be going away to college in the fall. I have browsed through the many messages relating to the Protege, and am getting a good impression of this vehicle. To summarize:

1. The Mazda Protege is among the best of the small cars. Of the different configurations, LX2.0 seems to be the preferred option.

2. The quality and durability of this car are excellent. No obvious areas of mechanical or design weakness have been mentioned (as opposed to the many gripes I see posted for other cars).

3. Maybe the Protege's biggest disadvantage is a lack of space in the back (frankly, what you expect of a small car).

4. The 2001 model includes some changes to the 2000 model, but they are not substantial. In other words, a 2000 model with 10K miles offers much the same as a new 2001, but without the depreciation hit.

There have been several references to an S plan. In case we go the new car route, can someone provide a brief summary of what this is, how it works, and where I can find out more about it?

vocus · February 2001

To get the special S-plan pricing, you have to join an organization called EAA. Go to http://www.eaa.org and join for $40 a year for the S-plan discount. Get on there with your member # (when they send it to you) and get the PIN number for the S-plan pricing. Take it to your dealer, pick a car that's in stock, and present the PIN and you're on the road.

I paid 1.5% under invoice (just like everyone with the S Plan) for my 2001 Protege ES 2.0 Premium. Considering the best deal I saw for the 2001 was like $400-600 over invoice, I think I did pretty well.

And as far as the 2000 vs. the 2001, they are pretty much the same car. But be warned that the 2000 model does not have the 2.0 engine in it. It has a 1.8 in the ES, which is a good engine. But ALL DX and LX models have the 1.6 engine (slow) only.

And the back seat of this car is extremely roomy for its external size. I have never seen any complaints about back seat room for the Protege. I have loaded people in the back as tall as 6'3 (I am 6'3 as well, and sat back there before) and there is enough room for them to be comfortable.

Only thing about the Protege is that they don't hold their value well, but what small car on the road does? Honda, but you pay ALOT more for one of those than you do the Protege. And they are so damn boring to drive too!

I just bought a 2001 ES 2.0 and wouldn't trade it for anything in the world, including a boring Honda. So compare the Protege to its direct rivals and see what you come up with. Hopefully you will see the light and join us in spreading ZOOMitis!!!

pkuehn · February 2001

Thanks for the information. My intention is to install a keyless entry. (I got spoiled by that on my last vehicle) I can read the diagram just fine, but now I have questions as to whether or not the system I bought (which is new, but an older model) will work. The system wants 3 wires, but as you pointed out, there's only two on the Protege. Time to contact the tech support of the manufacturer. :-(

dannyg · February 2001

The last Mazda owned by my family, a mid-80s GLC, was driven HARD for over 10 years and barely maintained...but the engine/tranny ran great with 125K miles on the odo. I doubt we changed the oil more than five or six times in the life of the car.

Now that my mother has a nifty new 1999 Protege LX, we're going to change the oil per the manual, no more and no less. My personal opinion is there's no reason to change the oil more than specified by the manufacturer.

Just my two cents.

vocus · February 2001

I used to have a 1999 Protege DX (with the same engine as the LX), and changed the oil per the manufacturer, every 7500 miles for normal driving. At 35K, the engine started vibrating when idling and nothing stopped it. While it could have been that the idle was off or something, I am not going to chance it with my new 2001 Protege ES 2.0. I am going to change the oil every 3750 miles, like the dealership says.

borgf15 · February 2001

Martin: Did you get the mudguards online? If so, please tell because I did a couple searches and I couldn't come up with anything productive. How much were they?

Borg

maltb · February 2001

You can use the kit that you have, but you will have to install 2 relays. The installation instructions for the kit should show this option. If not, most alarm installers should be well aware of this and should be able to give you some advice.

vocus · February 2001

Since my ES 2.0 already has the keyless entry system, I was thinking about adding a car alarm to it from the aftermarket. Anyone recommend a good, sensibly priced one? I was thinking a Black Widow or something like that. Thanks.

maltb · February 2001

How about the factory perimeter alarm? It's a little pricey, but it's a perfect fit. Also, when you go in for warranty service, they can't tell you that your aftermarket alarm is causing the engine to stall, inoperative windows or smoke in the cockpit.

Something to think about.

vocus · February 2001

I called my Mazda dealer's parts department, and they told me there was not an aftermarket alarm for the 2001 Protege. Do you know how pricey it is Malt? Also, the brochure for the 2001 Protege has a car alarm as an accessory. I wonder why they don't have it at the parts department?

maltb · February 2001

The Mazda part number is 0000-8F-C03 and it should cost about $200 from your dealer. Give the dealer that part number and they should be able to order it for you.

conheady · February 2001

If you can get one, look for VIPER brand. I got one of these when I first got my pro. the installers have to go through a lot of certification. So you know you are getting a quality install. The best part is the viper brand. Theifs know this brand.

I got mine with remote lights and remote start. All the signals are encrypted, so I don't have to worry about anyone remote starting my car and taking off with it. I can even park the car, pull the keys out and run into a store, with the engine running the whole time. It's great for winter when you need the heat running and the summer and you want to cool things down in the car before you get in.

Viper's got an adaptable alarm that will minimize false alarms.

vocus · February 2001

After they charge you the $200 for the alarm itself, how much about will installation cost? I can go to Best Buy here in Maryland and get an alarm installed for like $200 or so.

hkchan · February 2001

Edmunds and KBB show an installed price of $152 (invoice) or $190 (MSRP) if a car came with that option.

vocus · February 2001

The only 2 options my ES 2.0 did not come with was the factory alarm and the 6-disc CD changer. I have everything else. I was thinking about an alarm, but not sure. It's not like they break into alot of cars where I live, and also my insurance company (State Farm) doesn't discount for alarms anyway. So it may be pointless.

pygmalion · February 2001

I visited my local Mazda dealer (Windsor, Ontario) to see about a Pro Es. The dealer wasn't as personable as I would have liked, but he wasn't a jerk I don't think. Anyway, I looked up how much my 93 Honda Accord (60,000 miles--94,000 kms) was worth and it came to $9700 Can. The dealer offered me $5000 and said I would have to get a new timing belt besides! I don't even think I talked him down much from 26,000, but he said he would be willing to go lower with the trade in. I really want a Pro, but what do I do? He did say he was going to call me back to see if he can up the trade in value. I need at least 8000 or I can't even afford it...I still owe 6400 on the thing!

hkchan · February 2001

1. If you can't afford it, don't buy it. Or
2. Go to a different dealer. Ask the dealer to list every charge, tax, fees blah blah blah so you don't get surprises when signing the contract. Don't pull the trigger until you're satisfied with the deal.

Mazda Protegé

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