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Comments
But I don't know anyone who has a scanner or digital camera!
I need a photo of the strut tower, top (or top-pish) view provided the driver's side tower has a 3-bolt pattern that is like so ...
Two bolts on the rearward side of the car, identical to the holes/bolts on the passenger tower brace, and one central hole in the front(ward) side of the car on the driver's strut tower (unlike the two on the passenger's side, front side of the car).
If someone out there has such a photograph, or would be kind enough to take one for me and mail it to me (tishoo@hotmail.com) - I'd really appreciate it! While you have the engine bay open, it would be great to have a picture of the passenger side tower for comparison, too!
TIA
What kind of a road crack was that?
for it tho....All the Co's I've talked (leg work prior to purchasing next commute vehicle) to are charging more to ins Pro than like Civic or Corolla...Of course the agents don't have a clue
as to Y just thats what their tables spit out....
As I was typing the phone rang. It was Tom from Mazda USA re: install instructions for the infamous strut tower brace. He said it includes complete step by step instructions, torque values, sounds like the whole 9 yards. Its been awhile since I heard from him on this. Said it took some doing to get the material together. I hope they send me the satisfaction survey re: his assistance. He'll get top marks across the board. I'm impressed, I have to say.
Now to the advice part. At 54 yrs this is the first time I've ever had this problem and that includes the old days before I knew any better and would tighten lugs with most of my strength.
I mounted my steelies and Artic Alpins from tire rack 3K miles ago at the spec 80 ft-lbs and went out to rotate them about an hour ago. I guess you know where this is going..Anyway the bloody tire wouldn't budge once I got the lugs off. Called TireRack and he said he'd never heard of that and suggested I take it to a tire place for the rotate. So much for the $$ saved by DIY! Any thoughts or advice greatly appreciated.
I didn't want to kick and bang on it for the same reasons you stated.
Be sure there is plenty of light on the strut towers when you take the pictures. The good thing about the Polaroid, you can take a test shot for lighting and if the holes show up.
fowler3
Chiproes came in early but had to leave.
fowler3
http://www.photographyreview.com
fowler3
-Maltb
I not really shopping yet, nonetheless; a little scouting to cover my back side if my wife's 2000 PRO-ES takes a "dump in my corn flakes". She is a tad worried about her Protege's reliability after the warranty runs out. What can I say, after over 17 years of marriage to Trudy, I know when "to fish and when to cut bait"! This said, if the rest of this year is smooth sailing for her Protege, I would rather hold on to this car, jeeze I don't want to be confused with vocus, lol! The good news is..., she put over $7,000 down on this purchase back in March of 2000 and has never had negative "Paul King" equity in her Protege. Ya see most woman are prolly smarter than must men, hehe! BTW, just kidding, <"watch buying next") Paul! :-)
Maltb, you are right about one thing, Scott Ruhl (my Red Team service advisor) at Lancaster Toyota Mazda has a heck of time keeping our Protege's straight in his computer. I give him entree and appetizer coupons for TGI Friday's all the time, to spiff him for the P.I.T.A I am!!!! By the way, E-mail me your address and I'll be glad to send you some too.
:-)
-Larry "Love Train"
-Boggse
"It's the canister drain cut valve(CDCV) and it's located back by the fuel tank. It shouldn't affect the way your Pro runs, but is a function of the emissions system. Your dealer technician was probably stumped, called Mazda's technical help line and they "opened" a case. Basically, the help line guys will suggest repairs based on their expertise. Most of the time they are right, but they are also on the other side of the phone and remain human.
-Maltb
Ted and Malt, many many thanks for the info and advice! The nice thing about the Mazda Protege Board,... there is always someone to take your back, need help with your strut bar, need advice on service, trying to change your OME stereo out, need a fair price on a new Protege, etc. SOME ONE GOT YOUR BACK!
Thanks again guys!
Respectfully,
Larry
aka "old Head"
I am having a little annoying problem with my proto...I think that I remember reading some of you may have experiences this, the driver door panel makes noises. It's kind of a rattle. What did you do about it? Contact dealer? Did they resolve it?
Thanks
Tom
Car washes....what I said was correct...they give you a free rewash (one time) for free if you come back within 5 days. From 6-10 days it's half price. (Incidentally Dale, this was the place that I grabbed all those coupons for at the auto show!) They use soft cloth and I've never had any damage done to my car by them. Delta Sonic...great place to go when it's too cold to wash it yourself! :-)
Regards,
Pete
I encourage all to attend, especially those within 2 hrs drive!
Details as available.
Regards,
Pete
Larry, I don't know if I'd classify ONE problem under warranty as a precursor to an unreliable car. You should've owned my 1994 B2300 pickup ... geesh! As Maltb or whoever said, those canister valve things don't fail very often. (That's why no one here had ever even HEARD of one! I did an exhaustive search using google, metacrawler and hotbot after you asked if anyone had heard of one of these things, and I came up empty-handed save for one mention about it being a diagnostic code on a Kia Sephia, LOL!)
But parts are parts, and a bad one can crop up every now and then. You were the unlucky one, but hey -- your warranty's covering it. Think of it this way -- between you and me, we've had SIX Proteges for a total of nearly 200,000 miles. This is the first non-scheduled repair in all that. Not bad, eh?
Keep smilin'!
(Now, which part of this message are you going to quote?)
;-)
Meadeball
P.S. Trade ya some Richmond turnpike toll tokens for some TGIF coupons!!!
(But go read my retort on the Yahoo! group, you ... you ... FOWLER man, you.)
Meade
http://www.mazda.com/publicity/public/200201/0131be.html
Meade
Meade
It appears we don't have to worry about Ford screwing up this one -- at least yet!
Meade
-Meade
I here ya! However, it's NOT my concern. It's Trudy's issue. My car runs fine!
-Larry
Meade
image came from here:
http://www.mazda.com/mnl/200202/goaisatu.html#Zoom
I had the rattling/buzzing coming from the passenger side, but now it's stopped. Really odd if you ask me.
-Larry
BTW, I could never turn TGI Friday's coupons. You might just figure out who I am after all.
Check with the dealer just so you feel better about it, but I bet they'll describe it as 'normal engine characteristic'...
Engine is rough for about 3 minutes after I drive it in the morning. When it's really warmed up, the power also improves. In my experience, it's with all cars that you get more power when the engine and components are warmed up.
Door rattle: Haven't got one.
Dinu
That 626 problems board is great if you wanna appreciate how good the PROs are. Still a Mazda, but what a POC.
Dinu
Meade
'duh'
Meade
Do you have one of those little "windows" in your battery? If so, it should be green -- if it's clear or red, time for a new batt'ry!
Meade
'duh'
engines:
2.3 mazda designed, ford built
3.0 ford duratech with VVT
Trans:
Mazda 5spd M/T
Jatco 5spd A/T
Assembly:
AAI plant in flat rock, MI Current home to the 626/Cougar