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thanks, Wayne
The cables may be eaten up inside the insulation. Check carefully.
Remove the ground cable at the block or whereever and clean the connection and reattach.
The following things I have replaced or checked: O2 sensors, plugs, EGR vlv, plug wires, all 3 ignition coils, fuel filter, air filter.
I drove from California to NY and the check engine light only came on when flooring it in 5th gear and would shut off when the pedal was depressed. Right around Chicago the light stayed on and the gas mileage dropped about 6 mpg. The engine used to sound like a smooth roar now sounds rough. I have also noticed a loss of power.
If anyone could give suggestions as to what else to check I would greatly appreciate it.
I purchased it about a month ago with 29.5K miles. I didn't notice at the time, but it seems to have a hesitation when cold (first 60 seconds of driving) at 2000 RPM's; Weird!
It will happen in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd Gear (no opportunity to check 4th gear in the first minute of operation). Truck has the 5-spd tranny. Good truck for all else . .
All replys appreciated!
TG
Pull the codes.
Thanks for any help anyone can provide!!!
Brad
thanks
Rich
http://trs.rrorc.com/CleanMAF.html
If it isn't avail any more it suggests cleaning the filament wires in the MAF sensor. You will need a T15 or T20 Security Star drive. My 01 4.0L takes a T20. (Available @ atuozone for $2.99).
With a cool engine, unplug the electrical connection, use the T-20 to remove the MAF sensor. Carefully spray the filament wires with an O2 SAFE carb cleaner. Let it dry or help with a few squirts of canned air. Clean surrounding area, replace, & plug in. You should be good to go. Do not over tighten the screws when replacing.............
Good luck
(this should work for #1228 also.
01goldranger
For a $3,000 estimate, you should have a piece of paper with lots of things written on it that the shop will replace.....
Temp guage quit working, or is always on cold.
After 20 minutes of driving, I detect the smell of an overheated radiator, and have a small leak someplace, but, can't exactly determie where.
Water in radiator is barely warm, as if there is a blockage somewhere.
Changed the thermostat, but, still have the same problem.
I do not know where the temp sending sensor is.
A friend said if there is no circulation, the gage will not register, and will stay on cold. He suggested it may be the water pump. But, I had thought the water pump squeals when it goes bad, or, at least, water flows out of it someplace, onto the ground.
Can you all help me with this problem?
Thanks.
Joe
Throw the K&N filter away.
I would bet that your (plastic) radiator tanks either have cracked, as they do, or that the seal between the tank and radiator has failed. Look for white snail tracks on the tank of the radiator where the coolant has come out and dried as an indicator of where the leak is.
Alternately, you may have a bad hose or fitting somewhere.
If your pressure leak turns out to be the radiator, find an independant radiator shop to fix it, They can put a new plastic tank on the radiator. That will be a third the cost of a new radiator which is what you'll get if you take it to a general repair shop
Can't help on it's removal though as every car/truck is a little different.
After driving for an extended period of time or at very high speeds, the check enigine light will come on. Almost immediately following that the engine will begin to cut out or bogg down as if no gas or very little gas is reaching the engine. Rpms and all else remain normal, if i continue to drive the light will periodically come on and off. If stopped at a red light the truck will occansionally begin to shake and jerk. If i turn off the car and let it sit it for around 15 mins. it will run as normal for some time before the process starts over.
I first had this problem at 114k miles(i got the truck at 100k) on a trip from LA to Vegas while driving at excessive speeds. It did not happen again until about 150k since then it's happend more and more frequently and at less and less drive time and speed. At this point i can't make it to the local gas station without the check engine light coming on and it's a battle to go UP streets.
things that i've tried:
Loosened the gas cap- this helped with the problem temporarily, very temporarily.
Replaced fuel filter- did seem to help at the time for a day or two but not really.
...basically lots of things help the problem but nothing fixes it permenantly.
So after time the truck will begin to cut out sooner and sooner until it won't start up. My father took a look at it and replaced some sort of "electronic regulator" he said and the car started up fine and ran great for a good 6 months. Now the the problem is back, it seems to have come on suddenly this time rather than gradually worsened. Later we're going to take a look at it and see what's up, i'll udate if we fix it and any advice would we greatly aprreciated since i'm still unsure of what exactly the cause is. thx
P.S. - about 3 weeks ago i noticed my gas tank is leaking but only when i top it off, this might have something to do with the problem coming on more suddenly (gas tank pressure) hopefully i'll find out.
P.S.S- although the eltronic part my father replaced had the truck running great for 6 months the problem would still happen occasionally so it did not completely fix the problem. He's an electrician and was messing with the fuses as well so possibly he just "reset" the check engine light in some way which others have stated helps. I just saw Star Wars...Odd problem to have this is.
Check engine light.
This truck has been your good and faithful servant for years and years and miles and miles.
And you seem to not want to take it to a mechanic, to have the codes pulled, and have its ills repaired.
You don't deserve this truck.
I have a 2001 ranger 4x4 extended cab with the infamous thump clunk problem. I would like to get the drive shaft fix instead of the grease.
Does anyone have the part number for the new yoke or do I need to replace the whole driveshaft? The tsb implies that it is just a yoke, but no part number.
My cruise control head under the hood has gone bad. Anyone have part number or a place online I can order one?
Thanks,
Dan...
No idea if anyone actually reads these, but I have the exact same problem desribed by jared4071. the player was working fine, getting warm like it usually does, and then it just stopped playing Cds all together. doesnt' matter if they're new or self-burned. no self-made labels on 'em, either. it just displays "CD Error 0001", which in the owner's manual is listed as something non-helpful like "unable to read disk". the disks are fine - any ideas? thanks much
First, the side turn signals are burned out, and I can't figure out how to access the lights to change them. I've tried from above, tried prying on the light itself, nothing. There are no screws holding this light on, nothing. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Second, I'm thinking of swapping out the engine for a larger one. I realize the Ranger comes with either a 3.0 or 4.0. Does anyone know where you can purchase a rebuild engine for this year? Can you go larger than 4.0 in the Ranger?
Thanks.
Truckgrrl, my ranger was doing the same thing recently. Replacing the clutchfan and flushing the radiator seems to have fixed the problem. It stills seems to be gradually running a little hotter than normal about half way.
When it runs good it runs great!!!
When it runs BAD it looses power, takes off in 2nd gear and rapidly shifts to 5th gear by 25mph, air blows cool only, Will not down shift until full throttle at 20mph, Brakes during panic stop become rock hard and won't stop!( 1/2 normal braking), Sometimes shuts off (rare), when cruising at 60mph it surges like someone hit you in the back.
Been to the dealer 3 times and all is fine, called another dealer (No help),
called ford ( never heard of this)?? :lemon: 11500miles in 18 months and almost 5 wrecks. Any Ideas. I think its the computer retarding the timing causing a loss of vacuume in turn causing loss of power in brakes and ac ducts not to close.
P.S. No codes or warning lights. But like i said when it runs good it runs great and everything works properly, it just wont do it at the dealer.
Also 12.3 MPG sucks :sick: