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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • cdalesteve600cdalesteve600 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks,
    I figured that was the case, but could not find it listed anywhere. No need to, just noticed.
  • rangernoiserangernoise Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Ford Ranger with 86K miles on it. So far it has been a great truck... I had recently replaced my roters because i had already turned the old ones twice. I also replaced the pads. When driving the vehicle and for a prolonged period of time the I hear loud grinding noises in the front and feel it in the break peddle. But it seems like it only does it when the breaks get warm. It will only do it after excesive use like in stop and go traffic. If anyone has any idea what I should check that would be great. Thanks
  • timmymacktimmymack Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Range Supercab that I consider an excellent truck, but have had trouble with the front brakes for the last three years, replaced the pads 5 or 6 times, the passenger side rotor twice, completely flushed the fluid lines and filled with new fluid, but the problem persisted. Last week I finally bit the bullet and my wife brought it into a dealer service center. The problem was with rust build up on the caliper that inteferes with the ability for the moving side to slide in and out. The fix was some silicone compound that Ford came up with about a year, or so, ago as a solution to a problem that afflicts virtually every truck Ford makes. When my wife asked about a recall, she was told just that, every truck for the last 6 or more years would be recalled. So apparently, the awareness by Ford of this problem is being kept quiet except to dealers. I'm out $400.00 for this last fix and probably $200.00 more trying to do it myself. Has anyone else had this same problem? My brakes were so bad that the mechanic wouldn't allow my wife to drive home before they were fixed.
  • jdautoshopjdautoshop Member Posts: 2
    could be loose connection on a 12v source(check wires related to starting system) .....most likely the starter is hung up or there is a loose connection on it...you could try just tapping on it with a hammer while an other person turns the key to start it and if it does start up you know you need a starter
  • jdautoshopjdautoshop Member Posts: 2
    i was wondering if anyone knew the location of the clutch start sensor on a 1991 Ford Ranger STX 4.0
  • tincansailortincansailor Member Posts: 1
    Just has a major tune up of my 4 cylinder 89 Ranger, New Belts, hoses, etc. after 110k miles. Started smelling gas but thought that I might have overfilled the tank. Yeah, I know, stupid to think it might go away.
    Anyway, took a major trip today to pick up a boat. Spent $89 for gas for a 200 mile trip and ran out of gas. Carried a spare gas can and made it to a gas station. Got home and noticed a steady stream on the pavement when I was backing the boat into the driveway. Major gas leak but only when engine is running I think. Is it the fuel line? Something a shade tree mechanic can do or is this a "dealer special"? thanks for the help!
  • hellpppmeehellpppmee Member Posts: 1
    Hi, i need some help with my 92 ford ranger XLT... i can start it right up but if i do not let it warm up for about 3-5 minutes... as soon as i put it in drive or press on gas it dies and i cant start it for around 10-15 minutes after that. anyone have a resolution or any ideas on this problem? any help would be greatly appreciated. thank you :):cry:
  • nospamnospam Member Posts: 54
    The gas you are talking about is called E85. It is 85% Ethanol and 15% gasoline. Check out this site for info about where to buy and what vehicles can use it.

    www.e85fuel.com

    Hope this helps.
  • greenarrowgreenarrow Member Posts: 1
    I don't know where you can find one, but if you do find one, let me know. I have the identical problem with my 2001 Ranger. Wish Ford and other US manufacturers would go back to metal parts in lieu of the cheap plastic they are so fond of.
  • themoothemoo Member Posts: 1
    mikeb2k5...Thanx for that tip. Reading this string it probably saved me a trip to the dealer and a shaft on a repair. I had a steady ABS light, Check engine, flashing O/D Off, dead speedometer and an erratic shifting problem. All these things happened within minutes of each other. I saw your reply to someone elses problem and said it couldnt hurt to try. 4 minutes later I started my car and the dash was CLEAR!!!! No lights what-so-ever. Took it for a test drive and cant even tell there was a problem. On a side note the guy at the parts counter started singing the song "Another one bites the dust." Kinda funny. The part # on the motorcraft box is, BRAB-130 F85Z-2L373-AC. Awesome.
  • 98rangergirl98rangergirl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 ranger my problems are simillar. but i have a check engine light on what it could be is a vaccum leak at the upper intake plenum it's plastic and warps or cracks ford has since came up with a new one thats not all plastic
  • mostlylucky2mostlylucky2 Member Posts: 7
    Wondering if you had resolved this yet, as the original message is now about 5 weeks old, but there is a trick to bleeding the master cyllinders that I have not yet seen described, but which worked well for me. After a new slave and master cylinder replacement (Which I did, including transmission removal) my system still had air trapped and felt way too "spongy" for pedal travel. The problem is that air trapped in the master cyllinder CANNOT escape under ANY circumstances, unless you do one important thing... The master cylinder must be turned upside-down. No kidding. It's easier to do than you might think, but takes some work. It's easier to do if it's being replaced, while the new cylinder is not yet mounted to the pedal and bracket. Just invert it. Nothing will run out; it's sealed. I pressure bleed the system at about 20psi. with a tank of brake fluid and an air regulator. Stopping and starting a few times allows trapped air to exit the now inverted master cylinder's base and go down through the tubing to the slave and out the bleeder. You see, both inlet AND outlet tubes enter and exit the master cyllinder FROM THE BOTTOM. (If you think about it, there must always be trapped air in there unless you invert the cylinder.) Now, it does help to have the pedal depressed during a pressure bleed if the cylinder is installed in a normal position, but you don't even have to depress the pedal plunger if you turn it upside down. It's virtually impossible to do without turning upside-down.
  • mostlylucky2mostlylucky2 Member Posts: 7
    The starter switch is located on the clutch master cylinder shaft, immediately below the pivot connection to the clutch pedal lever inside the cab. There is a connector with about 6 wires (don't know what the heck all are for but I think only two are needed!). There's a small plastic slide-clip which can be removed so that this switch pack can be removed from the shaft as a unit, with it's internal spring and slider mechanism.
  • afwxafwx Member Posts: 1
    My 95 Ranger stalls frequently due to loss of power to the fuel pump. I wait two minutes and it starts back up. When it stalls, the fuel pump does not buzz. I have replaced the fuel pump, inertia switch, and the relay twice. It does not matter what the weather is. It has stall in 100 degree Alabama heat and 20 below Alaska cold. It stalled on dry sunny days and rainy days. I took it to the dealer and they replace $550 of sensors and assured me the problem was taken care of. They don't have a clue to what is wrong with it. It will stall 4 times within a ten minute drive and then go weeks without stalling. It always starts back up within two minutes. I need some help please.
  • woodturner5woodturner5 Member Posts: 1
    When trying to start i just get a clicking noise from the relay which i replaced, I have checked all connections to battery and starter for anything loose, have tapped the started and tried starting and also rolled it a bit to see if I could get the starter loosened, any suggestions or should i just break down and buy a new starter/starter soleniod?
  • mostlylucky2mostlylucky2 Member Posts: 7
    First, ask to have the filter and fluid replaced. After about 5 years, it is possible for normal clutch band wear to create "dust" which should accumulate in the bottom pan of the transmission. This is normal, but if the filter is trying to suck up fluid and gets clogged with this stuff (or anything else, for that matter) it is possible for the hydraulic pump to be fluid starved and weird things happen if this is the case, including a "slipping" situation because of lack of fluid. (I am assuming that the fluid LEVEL is good and that it's something other than just low fluid level).

    I have seen transmission "specialty" shops (no names, but you probably have seen their ad's) tell customers that their transmissions have "problems", and show them this grey / black powdery goopy stuff that was in their transmission bottom pan. Realize that unless there's something else going on, or if there's really a ot of this stuff in there, that some of this stuff is normal clutch wear material. I'm guessing (just guessing, based on years of ownership of multiple types of automatic transmissions) that if there's no more than, say, a level teaspoon of this stuff in the bottom pan of a "typical" transmission, it's probably normal wear for a few years. Maybe three. I think I would suggest changing the fluid and filter every other year if you drive it hard, or maybe every 3rd to 4th year if it's not driven too hard. Just a guesstimate. I know some people who have never changed AT fluid and filters in 100,000 miles and have no trouble at all. go figure. Then there's the rest of us... Hope this helps.
  • yd29999yd29999 Member Posts: 4
    99 Ranger 4x4 3.0 ff auto, ran a scan and code P0176 - Fuel Compensation Sensor Circuit Malfuntion came up. Thought? Location? How to repair? 144,00 miles.
  • yd29999yd29999 Member Posts: 4
    Ok, this might sound odd, but I had what seems to be the same problem. So I disconnected the neg,. battery terminal to clear the computer and let it reset. 2 or 3 mins will do. All was well, then sometimes I wouldn't get 50 miles on it and it would start acting up again, sometimes it went 1000 miles. I wondered about the ground cable all along. After months of playing with this I put a new bolt on the ground cable clamp and made sure it was tight enough. 2 months and 3000 miles have gone by with no problems. I'm wondering now if the ground would mess up and tripping the computer or ?
    Just an idea you might wanna try.
  • deedrikdeedrik Member Posts: 1
    Hey woodturner5, I have the exact same problem with my 96 XLT Ranger. Let me know what you did to fix it. I'm stumped! I think solenoid replacement is the only way...
  • b4000rangerb4000ranger Member Posts: 1
    I was having the same problem with my Mazda B4000 4x4 and I changed the fuel pump relay (fuse/switch) under the hood where the fuse block compartment is under the hood. Once I changed that she started right up and continues to run fine, hope this helps.
  • fourangelsdadfourangelsdad Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if you got an answer to your query, I have a 1994 Ranger that is doing the same thing and I am trying to see what it is

    You can e-mail me if you were able to find out what it was.

    Thanks

    Ron
  • rickyt1rickyt1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Ford Ranger and over the last two months if it's started more than 3 times in a 2-4 hour period it starts humming. The sound is coming from the area of the air filter or the air hose cause as soon as I take the cover off, it gets louder.
    Want to see what I can do before I take it to the shop.
  • xtremeranger98xtremeranger98 Member Posts: 3
    Does it sound like a train coming??
    If so, it's coming from the mass air flow. I've got the same problem and a mechanic told me to change the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the idle air control. I haven't tried to yet. The parts will cost you about 80 bucks total. I work at a parts store so it's all good. Just to busy working on everyone elses stuff instead of my own. Hope that helps ya out a little.
  • meurkmanmeurkman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ranger 4x4 with the 4.0L V6. Recently it has been shifting late into 2nd gear and the O/D light started flashing. It sounds like it could be this problem with the 2-3 solenoid described here. How difficult (if possible) is it to replace this part yourself? If so, how much does it usually cost? Thanks for your help, this is a great forum.
  • caddis295caddis295 Member Posts: 1
    Looking a a 1999 Ford Ranger Ext Cab, 4x4 with the 3.0 liter FFV. It has a high mileage count @128,000, but I understand it was a corporate vehicle. I am offered to purchase it for $4800. Is it worth it?

    Caddis295 :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    It's probably the Idle Air Control. It get carboned up inside and howls.

    It can probably be taken off and cleaned with carb cleaner.

    It has electric solnoid on one end, and medal valve on the other. DO NO GET carb cleaner into the electrical end!!!!! It will eat up the windings!

    Just clean the valve part. Be carful removing and do not tear up the gasket under it.
  • dsnowdendsnowden Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 94 Ranger with a 3 liter V6 that has developed an occasional trans leak. It appears to happen when slowing to a stop but only on occassion. He first saw smoke in the mirror. We noticed that trans fluid had come out of the bell housing and had been blown back on the exhaust, creating the smoke we assume. But when we took it out for a test drive it would not leak any more. Now he has observed that when he brings the truck to a stop, the last 6 feet or so, fluid drips out on the ground. Again this is only occasionally. Is there something that causes the trans to build to much pressure and forces fluid out one of the seals?
  • dfreshourdfreshour Member Posts: 2
    The fuel pump is located in the gas tank of your truck. You will either have to take the bed off of your truck, or you will have to drop the tank to get to it. If you drop the gas tank, get it as close to empty as possible.
    Good Luck and hope this helps.
    David
  • dfreshourdfreshour Member Posts: 2
    hey,
    you need to check and see if there is a crank sensor on your truck. This was happening to me quite frequently with the same result from the mechanics. Someone suggested this to us, we replaced it, and its fixed.
    David
  • 2ford98s2ford98s Member Posts: 1
    I'm hoping someone can help me with this one. I have a '98 XLT, 4.0L V6 4WD Auto. While driving, my 4W High & 4W Low will flash slowly together about 5 times, stop for a few seconds, then repeat. This cycle will continue for a few minutes, than stop for a while, then do it again. When it's occurring, there is no discernible performance difference. It doesn't happen every day, but seems to come and go periodically. There was no reference to this in the owner's manual, and I am unsure if this is indicative of a serious problem that a mechanic should look at, or if it's just an idiosyncrasy of the idiot lights. Any thoughts on this?

    Different subject altogether, but thought I would mention it. In addition to my '98 Ranger, we also own a '98 Explorer. On both vehicles, the heater blend door broke, which means you either have full heat or max air conditioning, with nothing in between. The blend door is $45, the labor to replace it is about $800, as the dash has to come out. This is my only real complaint about either vehicle.
  • xtremeranger98xtremeranger98 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 ranger xlt 4wd with the 4.0 also. I have to have that kind of problem but it sounds like the computer is picking up something from the transfer case. Either a wire has come lose and is wiggling out of connection. I'd probably take it to a mechanic, hopefully one you know and trust. I'll ask a few mechanics at work when they come in and see if i can narrow it down. I know that aint much help but hope it helps ya a little bit.
  • marc41042marc41042 Member Posts: 2
    I can't get my fuel filter off? Is there something special i need to do or is it jamed ot something?
  • psu_turf7885psu_turf7885 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab. The engine is a 4.0 Liter V-6... The tires are 1 year old B.F. Goodrich All Terrain T/A LT265/75R16 size. There is roughly a total of 350 extra pounds of weight between my brush guard and tool box. I weigh roughly 205lbs... I get only 9 miles per gallon in this truck, only 6 months ago I was getting almost 23 miles per gallon. I had a major tune up done in late March, and seemed to help the problem for about a week. (Sparkplugs, wires, all filters and fluids changed) etc. etc...
    I went to Braves game and the truck stalled out at an intersection, and just became lethargic with no power whatsoever... It's an automatic, and I didn't think it was possible for one to stall out... It also stays constant at 4000 RPM when going above 50 MPH...
    I was told by a friend to have the catalytic converter checked that it could need replaced... There ARE 84,000 miles on this baby!!! I took it to the dealership and they looked it over, ran diagnostic tests and the best answer they could create for me was "Oversized tires are killing my gas mileage" "I need to speak with someone in parts to order new tires, and a matching spare" I can't even change my own oil, but I'm pretty sure that entire story was a line of figmented imagination!!! needless to say, I am not very entertained... WHAT COULD ACTUALLY BE GOING ON WITH THIS TRUCK...
  • leebhamalleebhamal Member Posts: 2
    I noticed my lights periodically flashing last week under routine driving conditions on my 99 4 x 4 ranger and come to find my hubs won't lock in. A mechanic at Ford narrowed the problem to a transfer case circuitry code. He's yet to pinpoint the exact problem (because I didn't leave my truck) but suspects the shift on fly switch or the electronic shift motor. Has anyone else had this problems with their hubs not locking in and have a ballpark figure for repair price? Also, all vacuum lines seem in working order and 4WD had not been engaged in over two weeks.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Member Posts: 288
    Hi guys and gals. Question: 2005 Ford Ranger-2.3L engine-Timing belt or timing chain?
  • mtnlakermtnlaker Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1989 Ford Ranger with a 2.9 V6. Recently when I pulled on the lever under the steering wheel to release the hood nothing happened. How do I open the hood. I assume that the cable is broken. Please let me know.

    Thank you.
  • rereavesrereaves Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Ford Ranger, 4 cylinder, no a/c. The idler pulley assembly has pulled away from the engine. It appears that the bracket and spring assembly has separated exposing the spring.

    How difficult is it to obtain a new idler pulley assembly and install? What steps are required to replace? ls it necessary to remove the radiator?
  • ut1seabeeut1seabee Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 with the same problems, Let me know what you come up with. It takes all it has to do 65mph!!
  • huskerozzyhuskerozzy Member Posts: 4
    I had recently placed a remote started on my 2002 Ranger and I had this problem. The reason I was having the issue was because the key I was using was not programmed correctly. In your owners manual you should see a section on where to program you keys. At least mine says that I do not know if 2001 and would have that. I would think they would. Try doing that. Sounds like the key you are using is not programmed correctly.
  • huskerozzyhuskerozzy Member Posts: 4
    You may have a problem with the float mechanism in your tank. Normally when cards get older the float soaks up gas and the will sink below the level of the gas. Showing a misread. However, yours is not that old. I have a 2002 and I was really disappointed in the fuel mileage too. But I realized that they only have a 15 gallon tank, and they also have a two gallon reserve. So when you have two gallons left my check gage light comes on. So really, they have punny tanks for a truck. So you maybe just like me and not realizing that your tank is pretty small.
  • pickles4pickles4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Ford Ranger; 4 cyl; manual trans. It seems as though it is not getting enough gas. It is idling very very low. Whenever I start my truck it idles very low and sometimes requires pumping the gas to get it started. It idles very low, when I try to rev up the engine it briefly acts as if it is going to die and then it revs up but then right back down to idling very low. It does not die though. Could this be the throttle sensor? Do you have any ideas??
  • huskerozzyhuskerozzy Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Ranger Supercab. I have noticed an annoying air leak right by you ear where the back door and the front door meet. Its really bad in a cross wind going down the interstate I thought I could stop it from doing this but nothing works. Is this something that these trucks just have a air leak that will drive me nuts ? :mad: Anyone else have this.
  • huskerozzyhuskerozzy Member Posts: 4
    My 2002 Ranger seems to run about 3000 rpm when going down the interstate in overdrive. I thought it would not make the motor work so hard in overdrive. Does anyone notice this, or is there something possible wrong with mine ?
  • leebhamalleebhamal Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem I believe. It starts and idles low, them it may rev up to a high rpm for a monemt, and in my case after driving for a while it the idle would return to normal. I replaced the sensor (50 bucks) very simple only 2 screws and all was fine. For a temporary fix though you can tap the sensor right at start up with a screwdriver to unstick the small plunger in the sensor and that usually returns the idle to normal.
  • grnrangergrnranger Member Posts: 3
    threw part at problem.
    Pulling codes at service center cost more than part at NAPA.- $20.00!
    no problems w/ hot starting and weather has been in 90's all week. Part is readily available in aftermarket so that suggests it's failure is common.
    hot start or cold start replace ETC sensor.
  • groetengroeten Member Posts: 1
    For the past two years, during the summer, after driving for a few miles and the engine getting hot, I can stop somewhere for a quick errand and after a couple of minutes jump back in the truck it won't start. I have to wait until it cools for about 15 minutes. It happened only a couple of times last year and it has already happened several times this summer. This morning, before I drove to work, cold engine, temperature outside about 80, wouldn't start for a couple of minutes. This is the first time it has happened without the engine being hot.

    The engine turns over fine, just won't start. No check engine light. Doesn't matter if the radio or AC is on or off, transmission in Park or Neutral. Seems like there is no gas or spark. Until this morning, I was thinking fuel pump problem. After reading posts at several sites I can't narrow it down. OK, to add a little spice to the problem, when trying to start the engine, both door locks will intermittently open and closed. Like an electrical problem, chip or relay resetting itself or possession by an evil spirit!!! Freaky man!

    Solution???

    Gregg
    1995 Ford Ranger XLT Super Cab, 4 X 4, 4.0L, 1 year old battery, wires and plugs about 9 months old
  • happymikehappymike Member Posts: 1
    THIS JUST HAPPEND TO MY TRUCK, WITH THE LIGHTS BLINKING ON AND OFF. IF ANYONE CAN HELP MY EMAIL IS JJYEATON@YAHOO.COM
  • thedude202thedude202 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Ranger Edge 3.0 L V6, and I am looking to replace my fuel filter. I have read that it requires a special tool to remove from the harness. If anyone knows where I can pick this tool up or what its called, or basically any information on how I can do this I would greatly appreciate it. It seems like a relatively simple thing to do, and would prefer not to have to take it in to simply change a filter. Thanks.
  • k8stangk8stang Member Posts: 1
    My husband and I recently got a 1999 Ranger XLT Sport 4x4 4.0L. It had been rolled in a snow bank and some how got water in the power boster. So we replaced that and the 4x4 motor. Now it surges at about 2500rpm like its the fuel pump. did a pressure test and its good. Also has check engine light on and we ran the codes and they came up as tranny senser codes. The manual tranny dosent have the sensor its calls for. My husband who is a mechanic has been all through it and is now thinking it could be the engine computer. Any input would be great. Thanks
  • marc41042marc41042 Member Posts: 2
    I had just changed my fuel filter on my 1999 Ranger. The tool you need is a fuel line disconnect tool. You can buy in at any auto store. I bought mine at anto zone for like five dollars.
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