Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

jesse5 · June 2005

I'm having trouble locating the interior lamp relay, I suppose this relay is not working because when door is open light doesnt turn on inside cab or outside in cargo area (high mounted lights). Any help or ideas would help. Thanks guys.

brysue · June 2005

I have a 97 2.3 manual and it is doing something weird. My truck idles rough. It loses power and it does not ever die out. I had to have the catalytic converter changed because it was running rough. I have been looking at my Haynes manual and thinking it may be the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). I have had it to the dealer and they say there are no codes. Everything is OK. But everything is not OK. My truck is running terribly. Did the throttle position sensor help?

berri2 · July 2005

Okay... When was the first year that the Ranger got the ( 100,000 ) odometer ?
I been shopping for a good used Ford Ranger, mostly in the paper & the craigslist. Anyways... I have seen alot of ads claiming low mileage for example '93 super cab w/48,000mi. Maybe....really 148,000 so just to save me some ground work.
Thank You, Sheri

bolivar · July 2005

Sheri Berri

??????

Hey, are you one of my ex-wives?????

That was my nickname for her.

I don't know when they started, but my 1994 has 082357 miles on it.

woodylives · July 2005

Can you go into detail as to how to replace the fuel filter on a 99 Ranger? Like, where the filter is located, and how long it took to replace.
I also would like to do it myself, if it is not going to be too hard.
Thanks!

bolivar · July 2005

First, you need a set of 'tools'. These are in various sizes, a tube with an open side. You put the open side over the fuel line, then slide the end into the connection. There is a spring inside that the tool will push aside, expand actually, and the connection can then be pulled apart. Any auto parts house know what these are and should be able to sell you a set for your vehicle (and more unneeded ones) for $5 or so.

The fuel filter is usually on/beside/etc the frame, just about under the driver's door, or slightly forward. There may be bracket or cover to be removed.

Gasoline will come out when the filter is removed. Do not do this inside a garage. Sometimes, due to a siphon effect, gas will continue to come out even after the pressure if relieved from the line. I sometimes take a pencil and push this lightly into the fuel line to stop the fuel. Or buy dowel rod the size of a pencil, cut some lengths, and sharpen these in a pencil sharpener.

nailbunny · July 2005

Anyone know how to take the dash apart to change the bulbs?

brit2 · July 2005

Hi all, I drive a 96 Ranger 2.3 Auto over here in England.It's done 115k miles and is a smoothe little truck-except i am only getting 18mpg (imperial gallon) driving it very easy.When you consider that gas over here is roughly 4 times the price you guys pay in the States,it makes it an expensive to ride!.I have had 2 mechanics diagnose the truck but have not found the problem.I have recently fitted new plugs,leads,oil and air filters but to no avail.The second mechanic discovered that the gas tank was not pressurising and recommended a new gas cap.On fitting the new cap the problem remained the same (no tank pressure).Is this important?Does anybody have any idea on what the problem/s might be?I would be very greatfull for any help with this problem.Thanks-Brit2

fmc12 · July 2005

you may want a second opinion,but i beleive it is behind the radio.not as bad as it sounds,the radio is easy to remove.

fmc12 · July 2005

does anyone have experience with e85 fuel?it is now available close to my home .it is 41 cents cheaper than unleaded.i tried a tank the other day,the truck ran fine but i believe the mileage per gallon is lower.i couldn't compare fuel mileage since i towed 2 waverunners
my ranger is 2000 3.0 v6.the flex fuel engine was standard that year.is it still available?.

rgreene2 · July 2005

My 2001 ranger will start to cutting out when im running 75 - 80 . Its like maybe its not getting gas any idles? :

superheadcase · July 2005

some where in an auto mag. I read that if you change the thermostat to a hotter one it helps that problem they were saying in the article that there was a couple of different thermostats for that year and they found out if you ran a colder tempature termostat in the truck it would reduce your gas mileage by a couple of miles to the gallon I hope this helps good luck

rgrgal94 · July 2005

I have a 94 Ford Ranger that has been running great. Would not start yesterday.
Tried jumping battery,. etc. Will not turn over. Tried replacing battery. Still will not turn over. Help.

jimbadgett · July 2005

having same problem with 1999 Ford Ranger. Have you found a solution. Any appreciated. According to manual the sensor is located in the tail shaft. However where sensor should be is plugged off.(Trans type 4R44E)

brit2 · July 2005

Thanks Super,I will give it a try,but I think that the lack of vacuam in the gas tank is the route of the problem-but I don't know how to fix it.

dbajohn · July 2005

The other day I pulled a small trailer about 50 miles with no trouble, then I had to put my ranger in 4x4 to get through some lose sand with the trailer, and when I stepped on the brakes the radio lost all power. The next morning when I started the truck the radio came on but when I stepped on the brake the radio lost power.
It continues to do this. I have checked fuses and they seem OK, everything else works, just the radio has lost power, total loss, even the clock doesn't come on.
Its a 1994 ranger XLT 4x4, 6 cyl 4 liter, standard trans, very vanilla truck. Hope someone has a simple fix for this annoying problem.

keithreed · July 2005

I had the same prob. with my '99. got an answer off another site that did the trick, and it's cheap. Spray the door mechanism with WD-40. Liberally. (Inside the door) It really worked.

mjlnjhm · July 2005

I have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 with an extended cab, which has developed a transmission problem. At about 75,000 miles the transmission began to slip out of gear when the engine was cold. I would back out of the driveway, and every time it would come out of gear and refuse to go into drive for 5 to 10 seconds. It would continue to slip as I drove which was hazardous especially while merging onto highways, etc. Once it was completely warmed up it would seem to run fine. I had an extended warranty for up to 100,000 miles, so I began making trips to the dealer for repair. Six trips and now at 110,000 miles (and out of warranty) later, the problem remains. Any ideas?

putch57 · July 2005

Howdy.I have a 1989 Ranger .Whats the secret to adjustig the camber?This is a 4wd model.

spiderg8r · July 2005

My 98 Mazda B4000 (Ranger) suddenly won't leave the driveway after being parked for a few days. Put each of the front tires up with the jack and each could move. Rear driver side can move reluctantly up on the jack and will spinn out when I try to back out. When I tried to raise the rear passenger side, truck started to roll. Any ideas - can the brakes lock up? Parking brake be stuck (pedal release seems to be working properly)? Or am I likely looking at a catastrophic problem with the transmission or axel?

berri2 · July 2005

Hi Steve

Sounds like a Nice truck, only one problem...I live in Oregon. Darn !

Thanks, Sheri

jlezotte · July 2005

I drove my 89 ranger about ten feet, then it quit. It turns over, but the timing belt doesn't turn. Any thoughts?

freerange · July 2005

I have the exact same problem with a 1996 Ranger. Did you ever figure out what was wrong? I think it is a vacumn leak in this system that causes the outside air damper not to work properly but have not found the exact cause.
JR in Dallas

wbr3 · July 2005

I had the same issue with '99 when there is a air temperature increase. I found that that the door switch is composed of a steel bracket and a plastic switch. What happens is that during a sudden increase in temperature, the steel bracket expands quicker than the plastic switch housing, and the switch would remain open until their size stabilized. I removed the switch and "adjusted" the steel bracket in a bench vise. However since reading the forum, I'd try the WD40 approach first. ( a lost less work ! )

brysue · July 2005

I have a 97 Ranger and I experienced the same exact problem. I have changed (4 sets) of plugs, wires, coils packs, fuel filter, air filter, catalytic converter and exhaust pipe including muffler, PCV, Throttle Position Sensor and I even had the fuel injectors cleaned. I have had no codes according to the Ford dealer. There has been a good change since I changed the Throttle Position Sensor. It is running OK now but, it still has slight surging like you said you had. It lets go around 3500 RPMs in 3rd gear and I don't understand why. The coil packs are from Auto Zone. Do you think they could just not be agreeing with my truck. I have changed them both twice. What was the solution in your case? Please help.

brysue · July 2005

'97 Ford Ranger manual with slight surging throughout gears. As you shift through the gears it will open up at different RPMs (lower as you go higher in the gear range.) Any suggestions?

martinw1 · July 2005

my 95 explorer has similar symptoms, I dont think its a fuel pump, they either pump or dont pump. I'm thinking relay or ignition control module, fuel filter might need changed too .

joecarnut · July 2005

I noticed a few of you complained about pinging problems.
Many times that can be a known ranger problem that either the MAF sensor needs cleaning or replacing.
My apologies if this has been addressed already and hope it helps.

callerdale · July 2005

I have been having this problem for a long time.
When ever I accelerate on the freeway, particularly when going up a grade, the engine sputters and completely looses power, and acts like it is not getting gas.
I have replaced the Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pressure Regulator. and Fuel Pump.
I have replaced the O2 sensor recently.
I'm thinking, could it be EGR?
It does it on acceleration. When I hold the pedal at a certain place, at lets say 60 mph, or around 2500 rpm, it will come and go, but it always happens under a load.

brysue · July 2005

I am tired of throwing parts at mine. The Ford dealer said there are no codes, and I think that means they are too lazy to troubleshoot. I did a few things to my truck today, and will let you know what I find out. I did think about the EGR but am not sure. Will research more.

jotabrz · July 2005

I have one Ford Ranger XL 1995, but do not have the Owner's manual and the message "CHECK GAGE" is displaying at the instruments panel. Anyone could help?
Regards for all :confuse:

callerdale · July 2005

One thing I am going to work on today, and I wonder if anyone has any insight.
I noticed a strange thing that the "tree"where all of the Vacume lines go, (I don't know what to call that part)Well according to the sticker on the inside of the engine compartment, the vacume lines are shifted over one "branch."
But if I pull the rubber "boot" and shift it over, the boot doesn't fit right.
I'm thinking that really doesn't matter, as I have seen it positioned that way on another Rangers.
A plugged Egr would usually show vacume if you disconnected the hose, mine does not .
But, the Egr does turn, I think it is broken off it's base.
I have sprayed it to see if it is sucking air and it is not.

chromewarrior · July 2005

I have a 81 Ford f-100 Ranger.
I just bought a conversion kit that changed the points to electronic.
The truck ran great for about an hour. Then went dead and won't start back up.
And I noticed the coil got hot. Can any one help me?
Oh and originally the truck had an electronic dis.
But the truck was from Calif.and couldn't be ajusted. Thanks for any help.

mrwhattodo · July 2005

I just bought a 99 Ranger 4/4. real nice truck. I put in a tank of cheep gas. Then the message came on. I ran the tank out and filled up with a good brand name and in a few miles the light went out. Later I filled up with what I thought was a good name brand .... however the message came on again. I havent' refilled. I did read in the owners book that this problem would accure with watered down gas.

brysue · July 2005

I don't know what the "branch" of hoses is that you are talking about. If I had a picture it would be better. So I won't even try to guess.
I worked on my truck for a couple of hours yesterday and had great results. I bought a can of SEAFOAM and a can of electronic component cleaner at a NAPA store. I also bought a gasket for the throttle body. I removed the air intake assembly and the throttle body. I sprayed the throttle body inside liberally with the SEAFOAM, getting the butterfly very well. I let this sit for a while so the SEAFOAM would set in. I used a lint free cloth to rub the throttle body clean of all the buildup. While the throttle body was off I sprayed SEAFOAM into the intake manifold.
I disconnected and cleaned all the connectors to the fuel injectors, TPS, ignition coils, and practically any connector associated with the ignition system (male and female) with the electronic cleaner. I also sprayed the MAF sensor with the electronic cleaner. I found an oxidized intermediate ground connector at the coil pack. I used a file to clean this one first and then cleaned it with the electronic cleaner.
I reassembled everything.
The SEAFOAM says to find an intake vacuum hose to spray in while the engine is running. I had a buddy with me, and he sprayed the SEAFOAM into a vacuum hose that went into the intake manifold while I revved the engine between 750 - 3000 RPMs. Alot of smoke was emitted from the exhaust. It is normal when there is alot of buildup.
I let the truck sit overnight and when I drove it the next day, I swear, it was like driving the truck when it was new. No more surging or idle problems. I don't know what exactly fixed the truck but those are the things I did. I am so pleased with the way my truck is running. What a difference!

callerdale · July 2005

I bought a code reader a while back, and decided to run the codes.
I wish I had done that first. If I were a pro I would have.
It gave me 3 codes.
#1 was the code for the maf sensor, so I replaced it.
#2 was for the TPS, so I replaced it.
#3 Was for the secondary fuel pump circuit.
In checking in the Haynes book, I found out that the problem could be the Fuel pump relay.
Looking in the book there is no relay pictured.
Looking on the internet I found out that the relay is located UNDER the "Breaker Box" under the hood.
I replaced the fuel pump relay....VICTORY!!!!!!

http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emotorcons- /emo_smiley.gif
smile

ryday · July 2005

This sounds kinda like what is happening to me except mine does start but only runs a few seconds. It wont idle. If I start it and keep my foot lightly on the gas it will idle but as soon as I left off it dies. Its like it can't breath enough to run. I replaced the idle air control valve/sensor yesterday and will see if that helps. I'm also going to get my exaust checked to see if maybe the catalytic converter is finally going bad and exaust couldn't make it out fast enough.

Someone also mentioned a high piched noise coming from around the air filter. I get that too but it comes and goes. When it is there I only hear it when idle or low speeds, once I get going it usualy goes away till I stop again.

Any ideas or further comments on either issue is appreciated. :sick:

95 Ranger XLT supercab, 4.0L

gtgentis · July 2005

My 1996 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder automatic w/overdrive has been flashing the O/D light on & off. The check engine light stays on also. The flashing O/D light only occurs after driving on highway for awhile. Also when the O/D lights starts flashing, and I stop, then go. The transmission shifts real hard and jerky. But once I get home, and turn the engine off, then start up again. The O/D light disappears, but the check engine light stays on, and everything seems fine, Until I drive for awhile, then the O/D light starts flashing again. And the transmission shifts hard and jerky again. Can your tranny expert help?

ringa1 · July 2005

the same problem.

I have a 93 ranger 2.3, 5 speed.
for the last couple of years, in warm weather usually will not start after warmed up.
will get me to and from work, if I have to stop somewhere leave it running.
3 times now it dies while driving, have to wait 10 to 15 min. then it will start.

Saturday I changed ETC sensor. and it has started everytime since, even after 50 miles of alot of turning it off always started. But this morning on way to work it died let the clutch back out it finally started, made it to work. ran fine all the way home, turned it off and restarted.
new sensor might have fixed that problem, and dying could be another
any help would be great
THANKS

smokin_joe · July 2005

Hey guys I have an 1989 Ford Ranger XLT 2.9L V6 and seem to have a heating problem with it. The thing is i can't drive over 25 mins or up a small hill before it over heats. and to top it of its on;y in the summer but its not that hot yet here. I have checked the fan it works and the coolant is full other then that i dont know why its over heating. PLEASE HELP ME.

smokin_joe · July 2005

hello i had the same problem with my ford i fixed it by changing the pump see i was told that its because a gas pump, pumps cold gas and when the gas is warm the pump just quits. Its basically give your a warning that your pump is about to die and to change it soon.

wayneolawler · July 2005

Hey guys, while driving (primarily highway) I've noticed a "clacking" sound when I accelerate and there is a huge loss of acceleration/power while going up hills; so much so I had to drop to 2nd gear. I only hear the "clacking" when I reach highway speeds of about 65-75mph. I don't percieve any problems while driving around town; but then again I'm not reaching 65-75 mph in the city.

Is this an engine problem or does it sound like the transmission? The last time I had this much power loss it was the transmission (that car was '79 Honda Civic), so I'm not sure if that incident is applicable here.

Lastly, do any of you have advice about mechanics who you can TRUST? The last city I lived in I really trusted my repair shop; they weren't the cheapest but I knew they weren't trying to rip me off either. I know the techs need to be at least ASE (I think that's the certification) certified but that's about all I know.

Any advice would be greatly apprecieated on these subjects and thanks in advance for the advice.

Sincerely,

Wayne

jroberge · July 2005

I just got my new(used) truck recently and love it. The engine has lots of power and no problems what so ever. It still has the electronic hubs that are supposed to wear out easily but they are still mint. I was just wondering if anyone the power rating on this ranger and how many km's it might last until. It has 214000 right now.

ryday · July 2005

I had a similar problem to this when I first got my Ranger. The problem with the O/D light was that the computer chip itself had gone bad and had to be replaced.

The check engine light was related to something totally different though. I dont remember the shifting being real jerky but it wasn't as smooth as it should've been. When they looked at the transmission they found metal shavings and had to replace the transmission.

mostlylucky2 · July 2005

Sorry this is a bit late; your original message was about a week ago. Two Rangers in which I have installed aftermarket audio equipment had poor/deteriorating ground connections to the radio. If, by some chance, the return current from the trailer (or any other) lights is attempting to go through this poor (high resistance path) to battery negative (the only true zero-volt reference point for the vehicle), it will force an unwanted voltage drop in the path. The radio is, presumably, also tied to this reference point (wherever it may be... could be the dash bracket; could be a lug to the body somewhere). Or, it could be the same problem in the supply side instead of the return side but I believe that's unlikely. The effect of having, say, a three-volt undesired voltage level in the return line is that instead of having (for argument's sake) 13 volts supplying the radio, it's really 13 minus the 3 or about 10 volts. This can easily cause a substantial power loss as power is computed as the SQUARE of the applied voltage divided by the load. Translation: 10 volts with a 4 ohm audio speaker load is only 100 (10 x 10) divided by 4 or 25 watts... while 13 x 13 = 169 divided by 4 is 42 watts or so. [These are just examples].

Try this. Supplement the ground connection directly to (at first) the trailer ground by running a relatively heavy wire from it directly to the battery negative post. If the trailer frame is the trailer ground, you might be able to do this by using one or maybe two automotive jumper cables directly from the trailer frame to the truck battery negative. If the problem gets better (might even go away!) that's it.

You can supplement the radio return directly to the truck battery in the same manner. This requires taking the dash panel out and doing a bit more wire-running, but will also re-direct any return current right to zero. You can also try to make a measurement to possibly see the unwanted drop... measure the voltage on the radio housing (negative ground) with respect to the battery negative post. Should be very low; under 0.5 volt under all conditions. If it gets worse (goes UP) when you put on the brakes, that's it.

If any of these tests show improvement, or the measured voltage rises in a voltmenter test as described above, the ultimate repair is to (most likely) supplement one or both return ("ground") paths permanently. I have used about a 6 foot piece of #10 THHN (oil-resistant) wire with a lug on the battery-end and a lug on the radio-end. The radio-end I bolted to the 1/4" hole in the dash bracket immediately to the right side of the factory radio location; you'll see the hole if you remove the factory radio and radio dash panel. Good luck.

jcd132 · July 2005

Interesting. I have a 1994 Ranger with similar miles on it exhibiting the exact same problem. Have you found the culprit in yours?

Jay

engineer2 · July 2005

I took my 2001 Ranger 2WD w/5 speed manual trans (44K miles) yesterday to the dealer. The clutch pedal was low and it was hard shifting. I complained around 27K miles and was blown off. Finally it ran out of fluid and I put some in. The dealer didn't bother to check the fluid since right after the last oil change it was so low it stopped shifting. The answer from the dealer was that it needed a slave cylinder and would cost $830 (changing the clutch also). The trans has to be dropped because the slave goes completely around the input shaft. I knew the slave was leaking because I crawled under and popped out the viewing plug on the lower left side of the trans and saw that the boot was damp. They charged me $70 to tell me that and did nothing. When I got home, I filled the reservoir and bled the slave (bleeder is right above the hydraulic tube going into the trans). The peddle is up where it is supposed to be. The fluid I took out was jet black opaque.

To answer you question, the slave can be changed without changing the clutch. The dealer claimed that since the cost of replacement was mostly labor, I should change the clutch too.

Bottom line is that I believe that the material is defective. The after market has the part for $30. Looks like to drop the trans, the floor cover must be removed, the cross member unbolted and dropped, head pipe unbolted to pull the trans. I am going to do it myself and then sell the truck. My daughter recently bought an F-150 with a manual trans and on inspection I found the same part number on her slave.

NO MORE FORDS FOR ME! The son-in-law who owns a 1 yr old Chevy full size short bed with I think a 5.4L V-8 gets the same mileage around town 17mpg.

Hope this helps.

yd29999 · July 2005

Yup, WD40 works well, but it's only a quick fix. Here in NY I kept having the problem about 4-5 times a year. The dealer wanted about $35.. for a new switch.(common with Fords). I took the switch out for now. It's located right behind the door latch. A bit of a pain to get at, but it does show you how far you can really bend your arm.

yd29999 · July 2005

Add Fuel

ringa1 · July 2005

3 to 4 mos. ago I changed the fuel pump and filter, and had the injectors cleaned.
changed the egr valve soon after because I had a code. new plugs and wires also.

so far has started everytime, since new etc sensor. and didn't die on me today goin to or from work, but I'm sure I'll see that again soon.

any other Ideas?
thanks

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