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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • shellycpshellycp Member Posts: 1
    My father has a 91 Ranger 4.0 engine 4x4. It just cut off one day and will not crank back up! He has worked on it with several of his friends who are experienced mechanics. He has also taken it to our local Ford Dealership and paid them $180.00 to check it out and this is what they told him. The motor is turning, the injectors are firing, but it has no compression, we need to put a new motor in for you. Well my father being the life long big engine mechanic, does not see this as a suitable answer. Can anyone tell us what the deal is with this truck?
    Should he just junk it or is there hope? LOL
  • thomas880thomas880 Member Posts: 2
    The guy I bought my '92 Ranger from used it to haul hayracks some fully loaded some over loaded. He replaced the 4 cyl. with a 6 cyl and it has the original 5 speed manual tranny. It's still running good I just need to replace the exhaust and make a few other modifications and customization to turn this former farm truck into a street cruiser. So far it's going good. And I bought the truck back in April. :)
  • shiellshiell Member Posts: 1
    Hey,
    I have a 1987 Ford Ranger 4x4 2.9 liter V6, I just bought it a couple days ago off of a family member and i have noticed that for example when i stop at a stop sign or red light and i go to through it into first gear to go i notice that it kinda like sticks? or catches somewhere? its like when i let the clutch out and hit the gas it is like it the clutch is stuck or something and there is no power to it, this causes it to stall, so i have to shut the truck off and pump the clutch a little bit, start it up and the clutch will be fine this only happends sometimes!.....do i need to replace the clutch? is it a hard job to replace them? and one more question......wouldent ford rangers be easy on gas? because mine is a pig.
  • bak99bak99 Member Posts: 1
    Don't let any tran shop tear into your transmission. Your speedometer probably takes awhile to kick in. You have a bad ABS speed sensor that is located on your rear differential. You can pick one up at any local auto parts store for about $12.00. The sensor is located on the top of the differential. Easy to install. Once you replace, your transmission will shift normal again.
  • wdarnoldwdarnold Member Posts: 1
    This morning, my truck was in 4WDL on its own volition from the start. I switched the 4WD knob several times to no avail: 2WD:4WDH:4WDL. I drove 15 miles to dealer. He called me at work. Says its fine but will run diagnostics. Asked if I drove thru water. What does this have to do with anything? I didn't. I'm New York. I don't want this to happen again. Any ideas before I pick up my 2001 Ranger.
  • stroud1124stroud1124 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks I will try this.
  • cburnscburns Member Posts: 1
    What size socket does it take to change the oil on a 3.0 V6 2005 Ford Ranger?
  • scruffybeastscruffybeast Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Ranger Splash model with 4cyl engine and 5 speed trans. The wipers only work on high speed. The low speed and pause modes do not work. Also, the wipers do not park on shut off. When I ask Ford mechanics about it, they say that it is likely that the motor is the culprit. out. Just replacing the motor (not cheap) without knowing it is bad sounds a bit risky, as there is no return of electric parts you have hooked up. Any test I could do before submitting my truck to an $85 per hour technician?
  • hotrodhaulerhotrodhauler Member Posts: 2
    Is your 4.0 a pushrod motor or is the sohc motor. I've found in my experance that when a motor turns over and injectors are firing but no compression, the cam timing has jumped and the valves are open on compression stroke. hope this helps.
  • frdlvrfrdlvr Member Posts: 1
    Hi hope you can help me! My daughters 95 ranger wont shift into OD, it does the blinking light and hard shifting. Been driving it with OD off with no problem. The local dealer- Ford took my $75 and said it was a 4th gear concern and would have to go inside for more testing-$$. another dealer said there was a service bulletin on the separator plate gasket- apparently some gaskets blow out. I took it apart and the gasket was ok, I switched the 4 solenoids that are the same inside the tranny, thought if one was bad a different gear would fail but nothing changed. any ideas? thanks for your help, gene
  • billcarrbillcarr Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Ford Ranger that has 57k. I live in upstate NY.

    when I first purchased the truck from Towne Ford in Orchard Park, NY, there was a very small leak in the top left side of the windsheild. The rubber seal on the outside does not appear to be damaged.

    We had about 4.5 inches of rain fall in 12 hours. As a result, there was water all over the top of the dash board, the floor was very wet, the top liner was wet on the entire passenger side.

    Has anyone had a similar prolem? I have owned a previous 1994 Ranger and had no problems with it.

    What might be the best way to fix the problem? Should I have a sealant applied to the inside of this area of the windshield? or just have it replaced?
  • joel408joel408 Member Posts: 1
    This is the first vehicle I've owned where I can't change all my plugs.

    The numbers 3 and 4 plugs are hidden behind the manifold and, unless I break all my fingers so they bend backwards, I can't seem to get to them. I tried long nose and crescent pliers, but cannot get the leverage I need to pull the wires. I have the swivel plug socket already.

    Are there suggestions on how to make project this easier?
  • carlosmurphycarlosmurphy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1988 Ranger Extra Cab 4X4, 4-speed/overdrive auto, 2.9 Ltr.EFI
    This thing has little power on the highway at 60+mph, I've installed a free flow exhaust with 2 new cats and modified the air intake system.
    When I bought it 6 months it had (just installed) a new computer, 2 new fuel pumps, O2 sensor and battery. The engine runs great, just not much power.

    For you guy's that hate the stiff ride (like me) call "Coil Spring Specialties" at 785-437-2025 (as I did) and order a pair of their front springs at 20% less spring rate than factory, ($99.00 + shipping) the difference is like night & day! My truck rides GREAT now.
  • hotrodhaulerhotrodhauler Member Posts: 2
    is your ranger equiped with a knock senser, ( located on the side of the block, once it detects detatoin , it retards the timing until the pinging stops, than returns timing to normal. some of these sensor were defective from the start ) just something to check on.
  • clr0813clr0813 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 93 Ford Ranger that needs the timing belt changed. Do you have any information on how this is done? I need to take the crankshaft pulley off but I am not forsure on what size of puller I need. I would love any helpful information on the process of changing the timing belt.

    Thanks,]
    Carrie
  • mangumemangume Member Posts: 2
    invovled in accident have damage to rear right side panel.from wheel well area back to the rear bumper.do the entire truck bed have to be replaced.insurance repair involved by person that struck me.can just the rear passenger side truck bed panel be replaced along with the damaged rear bumper.so far everyone i have talked to says that the entire bed has to be replaced because it is all one piece to include the side panels.
  • russ6russ6 Member Posts: 3
    I have A 1994 B4000 Pickup and the check engine light is on and it hase the same symtoms as you had or have with your B3000. I have replaced the EGR valve with no improvement I also replaced the mass air flow sensor and still have no improvements. Can you give me any tips. Im running out of money on this problem.
    Symtoms runs rough at 40 -70 MPH like a hesitation it also hesitats on take off.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Good grief, stop throwing parts at an unknown problem. Have the codes pulled for the check engine light, and repair what is causing it to be set...
  • russ6russ6 Member Posts: 3
    A autozone employee pulled the codes and the air flow sensor and the EGR was what he found. After resetting the computor the only code that shows up now is code 332 low egr flow.
  • 351mustang351mustang Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Ranger that has a similar problem Leaks from front and rear windows seals look good. Problem is that is looks good but is more than likly dryrotted and HARD like mine. Solution take to glass shop and have them remove and re-seal, or if the glass stores near you say the same thing as here you will have to take it to a body shop and they will have to remove the window and re-seal it.
  • 1bigdaddy1bigdaddy Member Posts: 1
    I just had a problem that sounds alot like yours, The problem with mine was that i lost the ground going to my relay, I ran A new ground to the bottom side of the relay plug and everything is fine now.
  • krazykrazy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 ranger w/2.3 L engine that needed a head. I got one from a 93 ranger. Will they interchange and if not why? I put it on and it all bolted up right, but it will not crank. I have fire, but the spark is yellow instead of blue. Any ideas on what the problem could be (haha) other than the heads being different? Thanks
  • nmguynmguy Member Posts: 1
    My "ABS" light came on suddenly while on the interstate. The speeodomer does not work at all. The over drive light comes on and off. When I tried to turn off the overdrive (using the gear shift button)the light would not go off. All of the other lights appear to be working correctly.
  • chronic1chronic1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Ranger XLT 3.0. The first problem is the dome light. It stays on after I close the door. It eventually will go out, but I never know when. I was checking out the dome light assembly and blew the fuse. When that happened, the speedometer and odometer quit working. I replaced the fuse and the gauges worked fine. The dome light problem stayed. I just left the bulb out. My next problem is an intermittent one. When I press the brake to put the truck in gear. The gear selector will not budge and stays stuck in park. I have to turn the engine off, but keep the key on. I can shift fine then. I put the trans in neutral and start back up. Also, sometimes my door open light stays on when the doors are closed. It eventually goes off though. Next, my airbag light flashes when I first start the truck, then it busts stays on solid. Last, I just performed a complete front brake job (rotors and pads). The brakes work just fine, but the ABS light is on for some reason. All the brake lines, hose and connections are fine and in place, but the light will just stay on. Aside from these issues, the truck runs great. I want to avoid having to take the truck into the dealer. Although I am mechanically inclined, all these different problems can easily allow the dealer to try and snowball me. Has any one had similar issues that I can check myself or at least be more informed in the event that I have to take it in?
  • gary19gary19 Member Posts: 1
    Recently had to replace my fuel pump in my 91 ranger 3.0 v6. Now it seems i have an intermittent fuel pump relay. The problem is I have lost my manual and it to hot outside to trace wires all day. Where did they put that rascal? Any Idea? Thanks
  • chevlvrchevlvr Member Posts: 18
    Hey,
    I have a 2001 xlt, have the same problem with the door ajar light and the dome light staying on, it has even killed my battery a time or two. Is your truck
    standard cab or 4 dr ext cab? mine is 4dr. the problem is in the sensors in back
    doors, did you bleed the sytem when you did your brakes? if not, try that and
    check your reservoir(brake fluid). sorry, cant help with the shifting problem, have
    not heard that one yet! I know mine is very hard to shift from park when parked on
    a hill, but otherwise ok. good luck!
  • phamiltonphamilton Member Posts: 1
    All you have to do, is to change the VSS sensor and it should fix everything.
    Good luck
  • grappgrapp Member Posts: 2
    The dome lite on my 1977 Ranger stay on for up to 45 min. after starting the truck when the temp. in the cabin is higher than the outside temp. This usually occurrs after driving for a short distance, turning off the ignition for a short time, and then restarting the truck. It will also fail if sitting in the hot sun. Any suggestions?

    Thanks,
    Gary
  • redfox444redfox444 Member Posts: 2
    Fuel gauge in 88 2.3 2wd Rangers are in fuel tank, they all seem to have a life of ~100,000 miles, no reason to believe 89's are any different.
  • sugareeindysugareeindy Member Posts: 1
    I had this problem and it was so intermittent I ignored it for a long time. In conjunction with that my windshield wipers would turn on intermittently. I'm hoping the sensor I just replaced will solve these problems too but it's too early to tell. - VSS Sensor.
  • richy1richy1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello - Help Plz,

    Have a '00 Ranger 3.0 v6; oil gauge reads zero until engine warms.
    Probably sending unit; get new one.
    Unable to find location of sending unit on engine to replace it.

    2000 ranger 3.0 V6, a/c, automatic tranny,

    Can anyone help?

    Plz & T. Y.

    Richy
  • peonymanpeonyman Member Posts: 6
    Same problem on my 2002 4.0L. Replaced the EGR valve but the check engine light still comes on. Blew out the tube. No sucess. How does one know if it's the sensor or the solenoid? I too hate to throw new parts in without knowing the cause. Symptoms on the road are slight stumbling at 20-40 mph with light throttle and occasionally idle does not drop down. That suggests something sticking?
  • nascrlvrnascrlvr Member Posts: 3
    i have a 2000 ranger that i love to death. i've got 82000mi. on it and never changed the trans fluid,rear-gear fluid,transfer-case fluid in it but i have babied it as much as a truck can be. i only use 5w30 penzoil every 3000 and fram filters. its only a 3.0 but i've pulled boats and jet-skis with it. i recently put brakes on the front for the second time but with rotors. i also did rears for the first, no drums! i have no thunks, missed shifts, etc. but i do have this annoying noise coming from either the serpentine belt or the idler pulley but i have changed both, belt twice. any suggestions before i take it back to ford which if i'm not working on it, it won't go anywhere else but ford, will be appreciated. a few more things, i love to go 4wheelin :) with it, i've got a 3"body-lift on it that a buddy and i did one sat. and it has 31"kellys on it. i have pics of it but not for the pc....yet!
  • nascrlvrnascrlvr Member Posts: 3
    hi there. first of all some of the problems seem to be mediocre(not a big deal) but i hate annoyences as much as anyone. the dome light deal depending on how long it stays on is supposed to do that but only for certain length of time. some times my ranger is hard to get out of park also but i have two of them and they do the same thing but not all of the time, they are autos is yours?i'm guessing it is not.with the new technology ed driveway mechanics are stumped by the most stupid things but i love my ford dealer and you'd be suprised, they won't rip you off like some back-door mechanic! i have had nothing but good experiences with those guys and i never have to go back for the same problem which have been few!
  • nascrlvrnascrlvr Member Posts: 3
    i'm thinking you can find a schematic of some kind on the internet for the loc. of the sending unit.
  • 98fordranownr98fordranownr Member Posts: 4
    in my 98 Ranger, had same problem, I sprayed wd-40 into the part of the door that turns dome light on/off when door opens/closes about 3 or 4 years ago
  • lscottlscott Member Posts: 2
    Ok, here goes. Got a great price on a used 1987 Ford Ranger. Problem is, it has a very rough start, and wont stay started without holding the gas pedal for a long time. Once it is running, it runs great. Motor is healthy, was rebuilt in 2001. Can anyone help diagnose this before my husband spends way to much time and money. Not really sure about the mileage on it.
  • ranger01ranger01 Member Posts: 3
    Have a 2001 4.0 4x4 standard cab and speedo last two weeks is intermitant. Have seen it quit while driving. Was told that sensor in rear end is bad if ABS light is on or sensor in trans is bad if not. Where is it located on trans? Is it next to shifter lever? Hard to replace?

    Thanks!

    bob
  • leavdogleavdog Member Posts: 1
    I am having a similar problem with my Emiss warning light on my 1987 Ranger XLT 2.3L fuel injected engine. I know it comes on about every 60,000 miles, but it has only been about 25,000 since I replaced emission devices. A friend once told me there is a button to push to shut this light off. Any ideas how to turn out this annoying warning light?
  • richy1richy1 Member Posts: 2
    HI,

    I have a 2000 Ranger 3.0 V6.
    I went thru the same thing that you did.

    I replaced the serpentine belt with one from a large auto parts store as well as the idler pulley.
    A knowing mechanic advised me that it was the serpentine belt. (although new) he advised me that it was a 'cheap' belt that was causing the problem.
    I replaced it with a more expensive belt (Large Brand Name)
    Result, no more squeel or weird noises.
    PS the "big' parts store did refund my money.
    Hope this helps - good luck

    Richy
  • mcknightmcknight Member Posts: 2
    2001 ranger edge regular cab short stepside bed yesterday started jerking and lurching at any constant speed. itis fine under acceleration and idles smooth when stopped. it has 36000 miles. could it be something in the rear end? the universal joints seem to be fine. thanks!
  • mcknightmcknight Member Posts: 2
    my 2001 ranger edge 2wd reg cab short stepside bed has developed a jerking or lurching problem at crusing speed. it is fine under acceleration and at idle. any suggestions ? thanks.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Member Posts: 288
    Hi guys and gals: Question-Does the 2.3 L, 2006 Ranger engine have a timing belt which will have to be replaced after x-number of miles, or a timing chain?
  • redfox444redfox444 Member Posts: 2
    Have driven an 88 Ranger, 2 WD, 2.3, 5 speed, for 260,000 miles, valve cover never removed, still get 28-29 mpg hiway trip mileage at 60-65 MPH. Just bought a one owner 97 ranger, 60k miles, meticiously serviced, same 2.3 motor, tranny, but get 22-24 mpg, exact same hiway trips as with 88. No check engine light on 97, original owner says never got hiway trip mileage above 24 mpg. Any ideas on what is causing the 20-25% reduction in mpg? Would be interested in what hiway mpg other 2.3 Ranger owners are getting.
  • scotthdscotthd Member Posts: 1
    Both my rear brake lights went out ! I tried replacing the socket on the driver side to see if that helped it didn't. Any suggestions on fixing the problem! much appreciated
  • vft32vft32 Member Posts: 4
    Have you checked your Brake Light Switch on the master cylinder? Samething happened to my kid's 98 XLT Ranger and that is what it is was, which is what I told her to look for. Just a thought anyway. BB
  • mrostekmrostek Member Posts: 1
    i have a 97 ranger xlt 4*4 and i have a new create engine from ford with 25000 km on it and just recently i notice that it is running rough at ideal and seems to be missing? changed all the plugs, wires,o2 sensor and put a new coil pack in it and nothing helped? does anyone have a fix for this because my dealer cant find it.
  • jforbjforb Member Posts: 1
    my kid just got an 86 ranger, free....so we've been fixing things like the wasted rubber tie rod ends and the shocks with no oil left. The mirrors on the doors are loose, the pass one just flops in the breeze. I took it off and after thinking about it a while, decided to just whack on it with a hammer...on the plate that retains the ball pivot. I hit it at the peened retainers, and just inside them, and it tightened it right up. No more loose mirror! if you do this, you might want to protect the finish, I just put it in the bench vise (opened up about 1.5") and the outside of the bracket got some small dings in it.
  • jamieraejamierae Member Posts: 1
    I have a wonderful 95 Ford Ranger (4 cylinder, manual) and it is my baby. The problem is that I don't know poop about trucks and have been kind of trying to learn as I go. Anyway, being a girl, I have had a bit of a rough time of it. Recently my poor truck has started making a clunking noise whenever I give it gas while changing gears. It's not a consistant noise which has baffles me and if I ride the clutch, it's less noticable. I've poked and proded around the undercarriage, with no luck. Any ideas what this may be? Now a second noise is occurring much to my consternation, it sounds like a belt problem...that tell-tale high-pitched "whee whee whee" noise, but it was my understanding that the serpentine belt was the only belt and I just replaced the goofy thing a couple of months ago, also the noise appears to be coming from somewhere other than under the hood. Can anyone help me?
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Member Posts: 288
    There are many factors affecting miles per gallon, but after reading your post, the first thing that came to mind was the trucks have a different axle ratio--3.55:1--3.73:1--4.10:1, etc.
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