Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Without the vacuum line in place, the regulator can't work.
Again, I hope this helps.
I don't know if oyu have fixed your problem yet, but by the messages i read that people have sent you, prob. not. you more than likely have some bad piston rings, valve stems, or a blown headgasket - any of these would let gas get into your oil, and with a blown headgasket you would have anti-freeze mixing with your fuel and oil.
hope this helps.
Thanks for the imput, I have improved my situation by replacing the fuel pressure regulator and hooking up the vacuum lines properly.Theirs no water in the fuel, but I think you hit it on the head on all other accounts! It pings and clatters mainly at 55-65 MPH and it blows a puff of white smoke when I start it,and strangly enough as I accelerate the pinging will fade in and out and the smoke corasponds whith the pinging.I saw someone write about an electronic something that retards your timing when it thinks you lack power hmmm wish I knew more about that.As for the fuel in my oil I Think that problem is correected with the repair 's described above
-New low press fuel pump 25k miles ago
-New high press fuel pump 10k miles ago
-New fuel filter 10k miles ago
-New inertia fuel shutoff switch to try and solve the problem
PROBLEM:
-No fuel pressure at the pressure relief valve by the intake
-Can't hear either of the fuel pumps running
-No fuel problem came on out of the blue after parking it overnight...turns over, but won't start, no "engine coughing" like it wants to start
QUESTION:
1) What might be the problem ?
2) Is there a way to mount an external fuel pump to bypass both high and low pressure fuel pumps ?
I hope this helps you.
Brian
Here's where I'm confused. Once I got it into gear and cruised for a while, I could use the clutch again. It was as if the pressure had returned to the line. But after a few moves of the clutch, it was completely ineffective. I'd leave the pedal alone for a minute or two and I could use it again. But again, it was only working through one or two moves.
It's raining, so I haven't had the guts to remove the clutch fluid reservoir cap for fear of getting water in the system. But I suspect there is some fluid in the system since it was able to get the clutch to work some of the time.
How do I proceed with diagnosing this problem?
Thanks.
http://www.centuryperformance.com/coolingsys.asp#Mechanical Radiator Fan
I turn off the key, run through all of the gears a few times, then leave it in a different gear other than first, it will start. REALLY has me baffled....
any ideas would be greatly appreciated....
Somewhere else I learned that an '86 Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed has 2 fuel pumps, one in the fuel tank at the top and one on the the chassis frame just under the driver door. Is this the case for my '90 Ranger? If so, is there a way to check which fuel pump went out?
Before this happenned, I would turn the key on and listen for a buzzing sound. At the end of the buzzing sound there would be a click noise. Then I would turn the key to the start position and the truck would start no problem. Now the buzzing sound is gone and the truck just rolls over.
The plugs and wires are brand new and firing. I looked in the owners manuel and learned that the fuel pump shut off switch may have been triggered, checked it and its in the "on" position. Also learned that the fuel pumps fuse and circuit breaker may have went out, checked them and they aren't blown.
Also, Is there a fuel drain plug or something on the tank, I hope I dont have to drink a lot of fuel. :confuse:
I've decided that any and all fuel pumps my '90 Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed may have, I will just replace them all starting with the one in the fuel tank.
I took out 2 of the 3 bolts and the last bracket-arm just crumbled, however the fuel tank is still intact. (It seems to just be hanging there). There's dirt caked up on the top of the tank, and the fuel lines feel like they are metal rather than rubber. Could this be why it's just hanging there? It seems like if the lines are metal that they would be connected by "InLine Couplings". If the lines are rubber, then the metal I'm feeling is only the tanks "Line Necks" and the lines are fastened with small hose clamps, somehow secuered to the frame by hose brackets.
Also, the tank has a protection apron around it which has some wierd-looking clips on it. Could this be helping hold the tank from falling? Any ideas on how to deal with the frame brackets and apron clips?
has 96,000 miles on it and I bought it just last year.
The "check engine" light began to come on recently,
and the code indicated a misfiring cylinder, the 6th.
I took it to an ASE, AAA certified shop, they looked at
it for 2 days and are scratching their heads. After
consulting with Ford about the problem, no one can
figure out what is wrong. It was put back together
and driven over to Airport Ford in Florence, KY this
morning. This is most definitely some sort of major
defect, and I will post more later on.
The first thing I would check is to see if there is a hot/cold air regulator somewhere between the engine and the instrument panel (that includes both sides of the firewall). You can almost always find it by following the lines and hoses from the ac pulley/pump.
In some cases, the heater/defroster uses the hot air that builds up inside the engine. The line from the ac unit to the air regulator could be plugged; or the instrument dial arm was disconnected somehow. If so it could be anywhere between the dash and the air regulator. Since the blower works, I can almost guarantee that the hot/cold regulator is either clogged, broken, or disconnected.
It would help pin-point the problem if we had the year, make, model, and any info that might be relevant.
With the defroster not being ran for almost a year, it makes me wonder how often the ac was ran and what kind of environment is the usual for the vehicle. It could be just airdust, or it could be more extreme than that like rats, bees, wasps, etc. Or it could be that it is definitely clogged if the vehicle is used strictly for mud-bogging or just simply trail riding. In any case, I would completely flush the ac system starting at the hot/cold regulator unit, making sure it is working properly.
UpDate,
The tank is out and the fuel pump is out of the tank, now i get to take the one off my brothers crashed ford and see if it matches. If it does then its going on my truck. If it dont work then I will be looking for a secondary fuel pump on my truck to replace it.
It's more interesting and challenging to learn by experience through trial and error.
Wow
I did all this without any books and without the help of more experienced people even here on this message board since I began posting here. (I'm not one to just sit here and look at a PC screen; Anything I do, I have a purpose for doing it. Without a purpose, what's the point in doing it? Even if it's "just to see what it looks like", Hey even that's a purpose for doing something.
Way Cool.
montyanger98
Any suggestions?
I would turn the key on in my 1990 Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed and listen for a buzzing sound. At the end of the buzzing sound there would be a click noise. Then I would turn the key to the start position and the truck would start no problem. Now the buzzing sound is gone and the truck just rolls over.
I checked the power to the fuel pump in the tank and it works.
I looked for another fuel pump on the driver side frame near the door and all I find is a fuel filter.
If anyone reading this message knows what else to check or knows what the problem is it would be a great help, because from here I have no idea whatsoever.
This truck is an heir-loom.
Any advice would be helpful and very much appreciated.
*You may need to take the drive shaft off.
1. Get the tank as empty as you can.
2. Disconnect the tank nozzle from the body where the fuel is pumped into the vehicle; usually 3 to 4 bolts or screws.
3. If you have a transmission jack, use it to support the tank while you work around it.
*If you have the equipment
4. Spray the bolts with break-away or similar, wd-40 will take longer but it will work.
5. Use a breaker-bar to break the bolts lose starting with the bolt at the end of the tank; After breaking lose, use an impact wrench to reduce time spent.
*This is when you will want the tranny-jack under the tank
6. On the side opposite the bolts, you will need to lift the tank support bars abt 3 inches and push them towards the drive shaft. This will release them from the frame. (Do Not Bend, They WILL Break!!!)
7. Using the jack, lower the tank just enough to be able to work at the top of the the tank.
8. At this point, unplug only the electrical connections at the tank.
9. The nozzle has a hose clamp at the tank, use a screwdriver or the appropriate size socket. Take the hose off the tank.
10. Seperate the fuel return hose from the tank and cover the tank fuel return fitting.
11. Lower the tank until just before the intake lines are kinked. The plastic tips have plastic securement clips through them, use a screwdriver at the clip-lips to take the clips out of the line tips, which seperate from the tank.
12. Slowly lower the tank from the vehicle and cover the tank neck ASAP.
13. Lower the jack and set the tank off to the side.
You can see where I ran into slight problems. Remember, I am working on a Reg-Cab 1990 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl. 5-Speed. You may have a little different set-up.
To the more experienced, if I am a little off in my advice tips; please, by all means, correct me.
These two items, along with the solenoid, coil, distributor, plugs, and wires, are the next things on my checklist.
Is the relay and the solenoid the same thing?
behind the 4x4 switch, reach up in there and plug it back in at the back of the switch.
-brian
First you want to make sure there is power to the fuse box. Use a pos/neg test light to do this.
Remove an accessory fuse such as the sterio or the dome light.
Plug in the two prongs into the fuse slot.
If it lights up, then there's power.
If theres not, try a slot that you know works. If it doesn't light up, replace the test light then continue the job.
Check all lights that work automatically to see if it comes on. (engine cavity light, any and all dome lights, any light that comes on when you simply open something)
Now check the indicator lights on the dash
Turn the key on and see if the lights on the dash come on. some lights may just flash. this is normal.
check all the wires and their connections around the dash, fuse box, ignition switch, etc.
The majority of the lights that have no power are controlled at the steering column. There may be excess water in the steering column and just needs to be taken apart and allowed to dry before checking anything.
It's obvious that I'm not a mechanic. I just do a process of elimination using common sense when it comes to troubleshooting anything. Now, I'm having a problem getting my 90 Ford Ranger to start. and today we planned a family day so I'm not able to do much on it today.
I would turn the key on and listen for a buzzing sound and at the end of the buzzing sound there would be a click from the solenoid. the truck would start fine.
Now the click is still there but the buzzing sound is gone, and the truck just rolls over.
Thanks!
kcram - Pickups Host
My brother says, "either check the exhaust system for major holes or run straight pipes for the exhaust system because it might be that there's too much "back-pressure", or not enough compression, in the engine."
Whats the idle speed?
Does it shake sitting in neutral, or when you put it into 1st gear, or when you let out on the clutch?
Have you gone mud-bogging or rough-terrain trail riding in it?
We still need the answers to the questions here, however here's a list of things for you to check:
Do any or all of the tires look like it's leaning?
Are the motor mounts in good condition and secure to both the cross-member and the engine?
Is the bell-housing tightly secure to the rear of the engine?
Is the drive shaft off-set at either end and free of any bends, dents, scrapes, and scratches?
Does the differencial look shifted or damaged in any way?
Do the shocks/struts/springs both coil and leaf look weak, broken, or missing?
If anything looks abnormal and has any evidence of any outside force damage, and you do not go trail riding at all, and if you allow others to drive the vehicle; Anticipate them to go trail riding or street dragging in your vehicle. If you do not allow others to drive your vehicle, consider checking with those in the home who are old enough to know how to drive whether they're old enough to have a license or not, and keep the key locked up once you have the problem solved. My cousin was 13 yrs old and taking his dads chevy impala for late nights rides. He was street racing for money. He got the experience from driving farm and lawn tractors and finally when he was confident enough of himself to drive what I call "Road-Legal" vehicle. this is when the car began the late-night excursions.
So if they're at that age to leave after you go to sleep or even to be "Hot-Rodding It" consider it happenning to your truck.
To answer your questions about the rough riding/mudding. Never been mudding. No rough driving at all. No off road stuff and my daughters are ages 6 & 3 so the chances of them driving my truck after hours let alone getting out of their bed is 0%. So what would cause it to all of a sudden ride normal?? Does that sound liek an exhaust thing?? I'll listen out for any weird noises and I didn't hear anything like a pop or anything that happened when it started back to running well. ANy ideas???