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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tatmarshalltatmarshall Member Posts: 6
    If you haven't replaced the regulator yet, be sure that the vacuum control line is in place on the one you have. I agree with you, it's not likely that the new regulator is bad; it IS possible.

    Without the vacuum line in place, the regulator can't work.

    Again, I hope this helps.
  • reddogsosreddogsos Member Posts: 6
    I have a 97 ford ranger 4x4 5 speed manual trans and 3.0 engine. When driving my truck, it hesitates to idle down between shifts. I can actually be cruising in 5th gear and just mash the clutch in and the truck still stays at rpm for a little while unless braking and slowing quickly. While sitting in the driveway not moving but reving the engine, it idles down just fine. This led me to the vss. I can unplug the vss and drive the truck and it idles down quickly but then i have no speed odometer. I replaced the vss with no help. The iacv is the same. I unplug it and it idles down quickly while driving so I replaced it also with no help. I also replace the tps with no help. I cleaned the maf also. My brother hooked laptop and diagnostics up and we drove around showing no codes and everything working perfect. It confirmed throttle was not sticking and rpms were slow to go down and even sometimes reving just a little higher before dropping when depressing the clutch. Any help is greatly appreciated. Running out of money buying sensors.
  • paulp1paulp1 Member Posts: 2
    hello my name is Paul,
    I don't know if oyu have fixed your problem yet, but by the messages i read that people have sent you, prob. not. you more than likely have some bad piston rings, valve stems, or a blown headgasket - any of these would let gas get into your oil, and with a blown headgasket you would have anti-freeze mixing with your fuel and oil.
    hope this helps.
  • paulp1paulp1 Member Posts: 2
    if it is the 4 door model, 2 regular and 2 suicide doors the 2 back door panels just pop off , after removing bolts securing seatbelt, be careful not to break wires going to speaker in panel. might have to buy some new plastice body/trim rivets.
  • z1970suttonz1970sutton Member Posts: 3
    Hi Paul,
    Thanks for the imput, I have improved my situation by replacing the fuel pressure regulator and hooking up the vacuum lines properly.Theirs no water in the fuel, but I think you hit it on the head on all other accounts! It pings and clatters mainly at 55-65 MPH and it blows a puff of white smoke when I start it,and strangly enough as I accelerate the pinging will fade in and out and the smoke corasponds whith the pinging.I saw someone write about an electronic something that retards your timing when it thinks you lack power hmmm wish I knew more about that.As for the fuel in my oil I Think that problem is correected with the repair 's described above
  • mi_rangermi_ranger Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1987 Ranger 2.9 L V-6, rebuilt engine 30k miles ago with the following :
    -New low press fuel pump 25k miles ago
    -New high press fuel pump 10k miles ago
    -New fuel filter 10k miles ago
    -New inertia fuel shutoff switch to try and solve the problem

    PROBLEM:
    -No fuel pressure at the pressure relief valve by the intake
    -Can't hear either of the fuel pumps running
    -No fuel problem came on out of the blue after parking it overnight...turns over, but won't start, no "engine coughing" like it wants to start

    QUESTION:
    1) What might be the problem ?
    2) Is there a way to mount an external fuel pump to bypass both high and low pressure fuel pumps ?
  • larsondailylarsondaily Member Posts: 5
    Hey i have the same proplem with my 98' and i found this http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/TSB00-3-5.html
    I hope this helps you.
    Brian
  • jsb4jsb4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Ranger XLT 4X4 with a 4.0L and a 5 spd. manual transmission. Today, I started having problems getting the clutch to disengage. For a while, shifting was difficult, but it worked. However, the problem got worse the more I used the clutch and reached a point where I couldn't shift into a gear at all. I shut the engine off and could get it into first. When I started the engine with the clutch pedal depressed and my foot on the brake, it started fine. Although it was pulling against the brakes, it didn't kill the engine. It felt like I was riding the clutch, even though the pedal was all the way to the floor. I figure there is something wrong with the hydraulic and I'm losing pressure some how.

    Here's where I'm confused. Once I got it into gear and cruised for a while, I could use the clutch again. It was as if the pressure had returned to the line. But after a few moves of the clutch, it was completely ineffective. I'd leave the pedal alone for a minute or two and I could use it again. But again, it was only working through one or two moves.

    It's raining, so I haven't had the guts to remove the clutch fluid reservoir cap for fear of getting water in the system. But I suspect there is some fluid in the system since it was able to get the clutch to work some of the time.

    How do I proceed with diagnosing this problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd suspect hydraulics. Hydraulics can temporarily "rejuvenate" but a bad pressure plate never does. You can't hurt the clutch fluid with a few rain drops.
  • rrollowrrollow Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a '94 Ranger with a 3.0 5-speed. It seems to take a little while to warm up and just gets into the bottom of the range of the normal range on the temp gauge. After replacing the thermostat, I noticed that the radiator fan runs even on cold start. Is this normal or does the radiator fan clutch need to be replaced?

    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Here's a good explanation of fan clutches for you:

    http://www.centuryperformance.com/coolingsys.asp#Mechanical Radiator Fan
  • purplefordpurpleford Member Posts: 1
    I have been experiencing the same issues with my '97 Ford (5-speed). The battery and starter have been changed as well as the battery cables. The clutch safety relay engages, the solenoid activates but the engine does not turn over.

    I turn off the key, run through all of the gears a few times, then leave it in a different gear other than first, it will start. REALLY has me baffled....

    any ideas would be greatly appreciated....
  • randdtranddt Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me what tool I would need to use in order to replace the tailgate cables on a Ranger?
  • longdonglongdong Member Posts: 1
    I need a ford ranger fuse diagram can you help me?
  • cforemancforeman Member Posts: 1
    after my truck warms up when i come to a stop the idle wants to die but it doesnt. I have just replaced the plugs and wires, air filter, and had all the routine maintenance done to it a few months ago. I had a problem before were it wouldnt hold an idle at all and the changed the AIC air idle control. since then it has been running fine but last week it started to want to die on me when i come to a stop light and has really no power when i first hit the gas. :confuse:
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    The fuel pump on my 1990 Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed just went out. When I found this forum, I learned that I need to either drop the fuel tank or remove the bed to get to the fuel pump. For me, removing the bed is not an option. I see only 3 bolts securing the tank. Are there more than 3 bolts, or does the tank swivel down towards one side.?
    Somewhere else I learned that an '86 Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed has 2 fuel pumps, one in the fuel tank at the top and one on the the chassis frame just under the driver door. Is this the case for my '90 Ranger? If so, is there a way to check which fuel pump went out?
    Before this happenned, I would turn the key on and listen for a buzzing sound. At the end of the buzzing sound there would be a click noise. Then I would turn the key to the start position and the truck would start no problem. Now the buzzing sound is gone and the truck just rolls over.
    The plugs and wires are brand new and firing. I looked in the owners manuel and learned that the fuel pump shut off switch may have been triggered, checked it and its in the "on" position. Also learned that the fuel pumps fuse and circuit breaker may have went out, checked them and they aren't blown.
    Also, Is there a fuel drain plug or something on the tank, I hope I dont have to drink a lot of fuel. :confuse:
  • sadroksadrok Member Posts: 2
    2001 ranger 4.0l V6. The PCV valve should be -drivers side valve cover in the back near the firewall. I have tried to pull it out, twist it out, yank it out... It seems loose but it won't budge. Is there something i'm missing? :mad:
  • jhankerdjhankerd Member Posts: 1
    Sup?I just got my 05 ranger egde back from the shop and the truck was making the same noise. So the machnic drove it and said the belt haddn't been tightened properly. so go to shop and have them take it for a drive. That's the best advice I could give you. :shades:
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    UpDate

    I've decided that any and all fuel pumps my '90 Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed may have, I will just replace them all starting with the one in the fuel tank.
    I took out 2 of the 3 bolts and the last bracket-arm just crumbled, however the fuel tank is still intact. (It seems to just be hanging there). There's dirt caked up on the top of the tank, and the fuel lines feel like they are metal rather than rubber. Could this be why it's just hanging there? It seems like if the lines are metal that they would be connected by "InLine Couplings". If the lines are rubber, then the metal I'm feeling is only the tanks "Line Necks" and the lines are fastened with small hose clamps, somehow secuered to the frame by hose brackets.
    Also, the tank has a protection apron around it which has some wierd-looking clips on it. Could this be helping hold the tank from falling? Any ideas on how to deal with the frame brackets and apron clips?
  • chuckhogechuckhoge Member Posts: 1
    The other day I turned on my defroster for the first time in about a year. Later, I tried to turn on my a/c. No matter what setting I put the fan on(a/c, max a/c, etc.) the air only blows out of the defrost vents. If I switch to "off", however, the air stops blowing. Any ideas. Thanks.
  • goldrusshgoldrussh Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2004 Ford Ranger that I drive for a living. It
    has 96,000 miles on it and I bought it just last year.
    The "check engine" light began to come on recently,
    and the code indicated a misfiring cylinder, the 6th.
    I took it to an ASE, AAA certified shop, they looked at
    it for 2 days and are scratching their heads. After
    consulting with Ford about the problem, no one can
    figure out what is wrong. It was put back together
    and driven over to Airport Ford in Florence, KY this
    morning. This is most definitely some sort of major
    defect, and I will post more later on.
  • fm544fm544 Member Posts: 6
    It sounds like you need to invest in a manual that covers your specific year , you can get one at a decent auto parts store for about $15. It would be a good investment if you like doing your own work. Good luck.
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    Basics first,
    The first thing I would check is to see if there is a hot/cold air regulator somewhere between the engine and the instrument panel (that includes both sides of the firewall). You can almost always find it by following the lines and hoses from the ac pulley/pump.
    In some cases, the heater/defroster uses the hot air that builds up inside the engine. The line from the ac unit to the air regulator could be plugged; or the instrument dial arm was disconnected somehow. If so it could be anywhere between the dash and the air regulator. Since the blower works, I can almost guarantee that the hot/cold regulator is either clogged, broken, or disconnected.
    It would help pin-point the problem if we had the year, make, model, and any info that might be relevant.
    With the defroster not being ran for almost a year, it makes me wonder how often the ac was ran and what kind of environment is the usual for the vehicle. It could be just airdust, or it could be more extreme than that like rats, bees, wasps, etc. Or it could be that it is definitely clogged if the vehicle is used strictly for mud-bogging or just simply trail riding. In any case, I would completely flush the ac system starting at the hot/cold regulator unit, making sure it is working properly.
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    thanks for the advice but my local parts store dont carry haynes/chilton for under $25. and btw, dont most of us come here simply because we dont have the books that cover specific things.

    UpDate,

    The tank is out and the fuel pump is out of the tank, now i get to take the one off my brothers crashed ford and see if it matches. If it does then its going on my truck. If it dont work then I will be looking for a secondary fuel pump on my truck to replace it.
    It's more interesting and challenging to learn by experience through trial and error.

    Wow
    I did all this without any books and without the help of more experienced people even here on this message board since I began posting here. (I'm not one to just sit here and look at a PC screen; Anything I do, I have a purpose for doing it. Without a purpose, what's the point in doing it? Even if it's "just to see what it looks like", Hey even that's a purpose for doing something.
    Way Cool.
  • birddog10birddog10 Member Posts: 2
    2002 v6 4x4 60,000 miles. recently went to put vehicle into 4x4 high using the dash mounted switch. I get no response . will not shift into 4 wheel drive. Even when I have key in the Acc. position lights indicating 4 low or 4 high does not illuminate. Normally in Acc. position the instrument cluster does light up these indications. I have checked all known fuses and they are fine. Has anyone had this problem? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Mechanical knowledge is average. Thanks
  • lcbelowlcbelow Member Posts: 1
    2000 Ford Ranger 4X4 4.0 L - my truck's clutch has become very lose. When you push on the clutch it's very easy, all you have to do is tap it and it will go down. However, everything seems to run the same as before. The check engine light has come on after a day's worth of driving. Any suggestions as to the root cause of why the clutch is so loose?
  • duckworthduckworth Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Ranger and my instrument panel and tail lights just went out. My brake lights work when the pedal is pressed but the lights are out otherwise. I checked all fuses and replaced the only one that was blown. Any ideas or suggestions?
  • larsondailylarsondaily Member Posts: 5
    could be the motor on the transfer case or the module sometimes in back of drivers seat.
  • larsondailylarsondaily Member Posts: 5
    I'm still having the same problem with my 98 ranger, have you tried the (gem) module?
  • montyanger98montyanger98 Member Posts: 5
    hi i have 98 ford ranger engine light on code reading p1401 any ideas for solving this :confuse: . my truck has been in the shop many times for this one code.

    montyanger98
  • reddogsosreddogsos Member Posts: 6
    Ive not tried the gem module as i am not familier with this. So far , Ford dealer or anyone else can find my problem at this time.
  • akdriverakdriver Member Posts: 1
    I ahve a 1995 ford ranger with the 4 cylinder engine and have been unable to find an inexpensive code reader to use the ones I have found have excluded the 4 cylinder engine from the list of vehicles covered.
    Any suggestions?
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    Update:

    I would turn the key on in my 1990 Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl 5-speed and listen for a buzzing sound. At the end of the buzzing sound there would be a click noise. Then I would turn the key to the start position and the truck would start no problem. Now the buzzing sound is gone and the truck just rolls over.
    I checked the power to the fuel pump in the tank and it works.
    I looked for another fuel pump on the driver side frame near the door and all I find is a fuel filter.
    If anyone reading this message knows what else to check or knows what the problem is it would be a great help, because from here I have no idea whatsoever.
    This truck is an heir-loom.
    Any advice would be helpful and very much appreciated.
  • gmanxgmanx Member Posts: 1
    So I'm getting ready to remove my tank to get to the brake line. Were there any tricks to getting the tank off? You said it was just hanging there...
  • 2bigblues2bigblues Member Posts: 2
    My '94 ranger is having the same problem. Did you figure anything out?
  • 2bigblues2bigblues Member Posts: 2
    Starts randomly. The battery, starter, relay, and clutch switch have all been replaced. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    Yes, there are tricks to it; I learned the hard way:

    *You may need to take the drive shaft off.

    1. Get the tank as empty as you can.
    2. Disconnect the tank nozzle from the body where the fuel is pumped into the vehicle; usually 3 to 4 bolts or screws.
    3. If you have a transmission jack, use it to support the tank while you work around it.

    *If you have the equipment

    4. Spray the bolts with break-away or similar, wd-40 will take longer but it will work.
    5. Use a breaker-bar to break the bolts lose starting with the bolt at the end of the tank; After breaking lose, use an impact wrench to reduce time spent.

    *This is when you will want the tranny-jack under the tank

    6. On the side opposite the bolts, you will need to lift the tank support bars abt 3 inches and push them towards the drive shaft. This will release them from the frame. (Do Not Bend, They WILL Break!!!)
    7. Using the jack, lower the tank just enough to be able to work at the top of the the tank.
    8. At this point, unplug only the electrical connections at the tank.
    9. The nozzle has a hose clamp at the tank, use a screwdriver or the appropriate size socket. Take the hose off the tank.
    10. Seperate the fuel return hose from the tank and cover the tank fuel return fitting.
    11. Lower the tank until just before the intake lines are kinked. The plastic tips have plastic securement clips through them, use a screwdriver at the clip-lips to take the clips out of the line tips, which seperate from the tank.
    12. Slowly lower the tank from the vehicle and cover the tank neck ASAP.
    13. Lower the jack and set the tank off to the side.

    You can see where I ran into slight problems. Remember, I am working on a Reg-Cab 1990 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4-cyl. 5-Speed. You may have a little different set-up.
    To the more experienced, if I am a little off in my advice tips; please, by all means, correct me.
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    Where exactly is the clutch switch and the relay?

    These two items, along with the solenoid, coil, distributor, plugs, and wires, are the next things on my checklist.

    Is the relay and the solenoid the same thing?
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    There's a circuit breaker box under the hood by one of the fenders. You also might consider checking for shorts, bad connections, and disconnections.
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    My brother just encountered the exact same problem.

    behind the 4x4 switch, reach up in there and plug it back in at the back of the switch.
  • larsondailylarsondaily Member Posts: 5
    today i hooked up the scanner and checked the (gem) module and it had about 7 codes, at least 4 were false codes, i cleared the codes and my truck drove fine for a little then by the time i got home it was back to the high idle between gears. so i think its going to be a bad module i will check it on the scanner again on monday.
    -brian
  • owreowre Member Posts: 1
    I was replacing a windsheild in my ranger. I had a tarp over the truck and the wind blew it off of course it rained hard that night. Now nothing besides the power door locks work i turn the key to on and i have nothing no four way flashers ,blinkers,wiper,dummy lights,radio. The only thing that works is the door locks and headlights. I checked all the fuses but i dont think i have any power to the fuse box. please send any ideas to possibly fix the problem, thank you.
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    It's obvious the problem is in the wiring and connections.
    First you want to make sure there is power to the fuse box. Use a pos/neg test light to do this.
    Remove an accessory fuse such as the sterio or the dome light.
    Plug in the two prongs into the fuse slot.
    If it lights up, then there's power.

    If theres not, try a slot that you know works. If it doesn't light up, replace the test light then continue the job.
    Check all lights that work automatically to see if it comes on. (engine cavity light, any and all dome lights, any light that comes on when you simply open something)
    Now check the indicator lights on the dash
    Turn the key on and see if the lights on the dash come on. some lights may just flash. this is normal.
    check all the wires and their connections around the dash, fuse box, ignition switch, etc.
    The majority of the lights that have no power are controlled at the steering column. There may be excess water in the steering column and just needs to be taken apart and allowed to dry before checking anything.
    It's obvious that I'm not a mechanic. I just do a process of elimination using common sense when it comes to troubleshooting anything. Now, I'm having a problem getting my 90 Ford Ranger to start. and today we planned a family day so I'm not able to do much on it today.
    I would turn the key on and listen for a buzzing sound and at the end of the buzzing sound there would be a click from the solenoid. the truck would start fine.
    Now the click is still there but the buzzing sound is gone, and the truck just rolls over.
  • flycatchflycatch Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 Liter V6. The spark plug leads are held in position using several types of fasteners. I can't figure out how to open these devices. Can anyone be of assistance?
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  • lakeshowlakeshow Member Posts: 4
    My Ranger is running but not well. It will start. I have to pretty much gas it to get it to go anywhere. When I shift into 2nd or 3rd gear I have to hit the gas to get it up hill or down the road. Even in 1st gear it shakes. As it gets warmer it gets worse. I was told I needed a tune-up. Got it and it didn't fix it. Next thing was a timing belt but I've spoken to many people who are Mr. Fix-its and they all say it can not be the timing belt. It shakes in every gear. Any ideas. Replaced transmission about 3 years ago also.
  • blacknyellablacknyella Member Posts: 15
    The Mr. Fix-Its are right...Its not the timing. If it shakes like what you are describing, chances are its from the vehicle being "rough-driven".

    My brother says, "either check the exhaust system for major holes or run straight pipes for the exhaust system because it might be that there's too much "back-pressure", or not enough compression, in the engine."

    Whats the idle speed?
    Does it shake sitting in neutral, or when you put it into 1st gear, or when you let out on the clutch?
    Have you gone mud-bogging or rough-terrain trail riding in it?

    We still need the answers to the questions here, however here's a list of things for you to check:

    Do any or all of the tires look like it's leaning?
    Are the motor mounts in good condition and secure to both the cross-member and the engine?
    Is the bell-housing tightly secure to the rear of the engine?
    Is the drive shaft off-set at either end and free of any bends, dents, scrapes, and scratches?
    Does the differencial look shifted or damaged in any way?
    Do the shocks/struts/springs both coil and leaf look weak, broken, or missing?

    If anything looks abnormal and has any evidence of any outside force damage, and you do not go trail riding at all, and if you allow others to drive the vehicle; Anticipate them to go trail riding or street dragging in your vehicle. If you do not allow others to drive your vehicle, consider checking with those in the home who are old enough to know how to drive whether they're old enough to have a license or not, and keep the key locked up once you have the problem solved. My cousin was 13 yrs old and taking his dads chevy impala for late nights rides. He was street racing for money. He got the experience from driving farm and lawn tractors and finally when he was confident enough of himself to drive what I call "Road-Legal" vehicle. this is when the car began the late-night excursions.
    So if they're at that age to leave after you go to sleep or even to be "Hot-Rodding It" consider it happenning to your truck.
  • lakeshowlakeshow Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the response. Get this. This truck has been giving me the same problem since it 1st happened back in late July/early August. When it 1st happened I drove it home and then maybe once or twice more by mechanics trying to figure out what's wrong. Yesterday was the 1st time I had driven it in a long time. Same problem to and from work. Well, this morning I decided to take it to work again. I start it up and same problem. Pull out of my neighborhood , down the street same problem. As I'm going up a hill on an overpass all of a sudden it's riding like normal. No shaking, no gassing it to get anywhere just like nothing has happened. Crazy!!! I'm not getting my hopes up though. I'll drive it through the week and see if it reverts back to not running well.
    To answer your questions about the rough riding/mudding. Never been mudding. No rough driving at all. No off road stuff and my daughters are ages 6 & 3 so the chances of them driving my truck after hours let alone getting out of their bed is 0%. So what would cause it to all of a sudden ride normal?? Does that sound liek an exhaust thing?? I'll listen out for any weird noises and I didn't hear anything like a pop or anything that happened when it started back to running well. ANy ideas???
  • gmhellmangmhellman Member Posts: 121
    I had a 1990 Ranger with the v-6 and the manual. I had the same problem and eventually found it to be some bad gas. I noticed that it went away after the tank was almost completely empty. I filled the tank at a different gas station and added a bottle of isopropyl alcohol (HEET). The truck smoothed right out and it ran much better up until the day that I got rid of it. Ironically a few days later I drove by the first gas station and the pumps were closed and they were digging up the tanks and pumps. I stopped and asked the attendant what was going on and she said that somebody had complained to the state inspector and he had visited them and found an unacceptable and atrocious amount of water and dirt in their tanks. The tank that held the 87 octane had a small crack along the top edge and was allowing dirt and rain water to run into it. Did you fill up your tank between the bad and good driving? Other than that the only other thing I could think of is maybe a cracked distributor cap. I had that happen on a 1990 Dodge Shadow and when the moisture was out the car was difficult to start and ran very poorly. Good Luck
  • jefferygjefferyg Member Posts: 418
    You might also want to consider a new set of plug wires. I had a 99 F-150 with a 4.2L V6 that had a similar problem, but not as severe as you describe. They eventually traced the problem to one faulty plug wire. One misfiring cylinder on a 4 or 6 cylinder engine can really cause the shakes.
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