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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jefferygjefferyg Member Posts: 418
    I recently had a similar problem with my 96 Ranger with the four cyl engine. It turned out the the front coil pack was bad on the #3 lead. It wasn't getting any fire out of it. The coil pack itself is about $40 and is available at almost any parts house.

    My truck also idled just fine, but my mechanic explained that with the four cyl the front coil controls the plugs on the intake side. These are the ones which do most of the work. The rear coil controls the plugs on the exhaust side which are more for emissions purposes. These plugs fire when the engine is cold, at low speeds, or under a load. The computer will at higher speeds shut down the rear coil and those "exhaust" plugs.

    As best as I can figure when the truck is idling these extra plugs must be firing and keeping the miss to a minimum. However, when the engine warms up or reaches a certain rpm they quit firing and the miss immediately becomes more noticeable.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    My 1995 Ranger STX died today. I pulled on to an island in the street. The truck would turn over but wouldn't stay started for long. I waited for a few minutes and then it fired right up! I drove a couple hundred feet more and it died again. Didn't want to start again for awhile. Finally, I turned it over and it started and I didn't give it any gas and it slowly reved up until it was running right? I think it might be a fuel filter. Anyone else know what this might be??? Has anyone changed these? Any help is greatly appreciated! :confuse:
  • justus3justus3 Member Posts: 21
    Was your check engine light on when you were having the problem? Ours has been on intermittently over the last few months and now stays on almost constantly. Hubby hooked the truck up to an OBD II and got a code P1131 HO2S 11, indicates lean (bad oxygen sensor). So he is going to replace the oxygen sensors and see if that helps. If not, I will tell him about your truck. I hope he can fix the truck soon so I can have my car back. ;)
  • daleinncdaleinnc Member Posts: 7
    Just bought a 98 ranger that has the am/fm/cassette radio. I want to remove it and put in player with the cd player and controls. I have a couple of questions.

    1) do i really need "special" tools to remove the old unit?
    2) once removed, is it simply unplugging the existing plugs?
    3)is the new player as simple to install as simply plugging back in those plugs and sliding back into bay?

    I have seen several used factory cd players that have come out of the rangers/windstars and other ford/mercury vehicles and say they are all compatible. How do i insure that they are compatible with my 98 Ranger.

    Thanks sooo much for all the help.

    Dale In Asheville NC
  • jefferygjefferyg Member Posts: 418
    No, I never saw the check engine light come on, but with 240,000 miles on it, I'm not sure that mine even works. :)

    Anyway, my problem started rather suddenly one day, and it was obviously an ignition issue.
  • phisherphisher Member Posts: 175
    FYI I've solved the left blinker problem, It seems that I'm not the only one out there that has run into this problem. I checked on some ranger web sites and found that the issue arises from an aftermarket trailer wiring harness. It might just be coincidence but both other people that had this issue had a drawtite wiring kit. Hope this helps out anyone else that experiences this problem. If this isn't the cause I just hope that what ever is causing it doesn't return in the next 2-3 days as I'm planning to trade her in before the end of the month. ;) :P
  • rangermangrangermang Member Posts: 27
    99 Ranger, Manual 2.5L 4 cyl, hard time trying to change the spark plugs. Any suggestions? Is it worth it to take it to a shop? Do I have to remove the upper part of the intake manifold? Please help!!! Thanks!
  • mawells2mawells2 Member Posts: 1
    I have just noticed these same symptoms in my 2001 Mazda B4000. Only happens when it's snowing. Have you gotten any resolution to this problem?
  • reddogsosreddogsos Member Posts: 6
    Just reposting hopeing for help. I haven't bought the motorcraft idle air control valve yet in that i dont really have the money to blow unless there is a chance it fixing my problem. My truck continues to idle high between shifting the gears and sometimes when coming to a stop. I think it is taking a toll on the clutch. Any Ideas.
  • dave1961dave1961 Member Posts: 4
    I am seeking information as to what the wiring route is for
    the white with blue stripe wire .From the plug at transfer case to where it terminates.This truck was bought at auction it was improperly wired:(from battery to toggle switch in cab out to switch at transfer case ).I want to rewire this correctly can someone please assist with some information .the schematics in the book I bought don't go far enough to tell you .I do know the wire at the plug connecting to the swich at the transfer case is white with a blue stripe.This ranger has a 2.9 with automatic trans if that helps .
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I think I remember your problem. Did I already reply that I have seen the solution, but can't remember it? I even went to another Ranger-specific site and searched it, but did not find the solution there.

    It might be your Idle Control Valve. Buy usually it causes 'surging' at idle, or just a too high or low idle. It usually doesn't cause problems between shifts (I think.)

    Anyway, take off the Idle Control VAlve, it can sometimes be cleaned. It usually is a silver and black cylinder about the size but longer compared to a 35mm film cannister. On the intake. With 2 wires into in. Be careful of the gasket under it, don't tear it so it can be reused. It has two bolts holding it on.

    When removed, you will it is basically 2 parts. An electric solonid on one end, and a small manual valve on the other. Gasoline gunk or carbon can get into the valve and stop its movement. Clean with carb cleaner, electronic cleaner, etc. HOLD THE VALVE SO THE ELECTONIC END IS UP. DO NOT GET CARB CLEANER INTO THE SOLONID END, IT WILL EAT UP THE WINDINGS AND RUIN IT!

    Put it back on. Maybe this will help. Or, maybe there is still my 'forgotten' problem.

    Do some other searches for Ranger sites and search there for your problem. I've seen it, but don't remember what the solution is...... Getting old is bad....
  • zanmanzanman Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem and i recieved a letter from the ford company that there was a wiring recall linked to the idle. I went and had it fixed. no problem after. contact a ford dealer for info

    hope this was helpful
    mjconstr@sbcglobal.net
  • mrartmrart Member Posts: 2
    I removed manual fuel pump from 4 cylinder in order to change fuel filter. Having trouble installing it. Any suggestions?
    mrart.
  • rocketfootballrocketfootball Member Posts: 6
    I Have a 97 ranger 4X4 reg. cab manual with a 3.0 V6. I want to buy 15X10 rims and then get either 33/12.50/15 or 35/12.50/15. I plan on getting a 4" suspension lift kit, will that be enough?? If not, what do i need to get for suspension? If it is enough lift, do i need any special backspacing on my wheels?? Any help is appriciated, and i Thank you in advance.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I'm not sure exactly what your problem is.

    I've never worked on one, but in the very 'olden days', where there was a manual fuel pump activated by a steel rod, and the rod came out when the pump was removed. The rod was tough to get back in and positioned on the lever in the pump it needed to contact.

    Shade tree mechanics put a big glob of grease on the rod which held it it place when it was slid back in the block. The grease was then dissolved by the oil and didn't cause any problem...
  • baseballstudbaseballstud Member Posts: 5
    I have recently noticed that my check oil light will come on while driving (though not all the time) even thought my oil pressure remains at a normal rate. Could this be the sender or maybe just a wiring problem? Also, the 4x4 will make a hissing sound when it is engaged (push button). any ideas? :confuse:

    Any help is greatly appreciated,

    thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The 'Check Oil' light means you are over 1 quart low on oil, it doesn't have anything to do with oil pressure.

    Are you low on oil?

    If not, I would find the sensor and clean the connection of the wire where it connects to the sensor.
  • aaeaganaaeagan Member Posts: 2
    I have a 93 ranger 4x4 4.0,manual. The issue I am having is it bucks when I am in 5th gear on the highway mostly over 55mph. Its like its loosing power or not getting enough gas. Do you think my injectors need cleaned? Any help is greatly appreciated!
    Aaron
  • aaeaganaaeagan Member Posts: 2
    mine seems like it is missing at around 55mph or almost cutting out. Give me more details on what yours is doing.
    Sorry I dont have a fix but I would like to figure out what this problem is!
  • bmaxbmax Member Posts: 1
    My 93 ranger is an old R-12 system. My problem is the air conditioner is acting like the evaporator is starving, every now and then the air temp starts to slightly drop and then it gets warm again but the compressor is not cutting out on low pressure. If this were a normal commerical air conditioner I would think the TXV was not operating properly.

    From what I am understanding, a fixed orfice is used instead of a TXV. I guess that is sort of like a cap tube or heat pump. Where is this orfice located? Is it inside of the plastic housing for the evaporator or is it located in the engine compartment? I really don't know what I am looking for, or at, as far as the orfice goes.

    I have a working knowledge of air conditioning systems, but no experience with automotive air conditioners.

    Thanks for your help!
  • baseballstudbaseballstud Member Posts: 5
    The very first thing I did was check the level of oil. If the oil was low the 'check oil' light would not turn on and off.
    Took the advice and cleaned the connection, I'll have to see if it works or not, thanks
  • few1few1 Member Posts: 1
    WE RECENTLY BOUGHT A THIS 95 KING CAB USED.THE CHIMES ON THE IGNITON STAY ON EVEN AFTER DOORS ARE CLOSED AND SEATBELTS ARE ON,STAYS ON EVEN WHEN U ARE DIVING DOWN THE ROAD .WE HAVE CHECKED FOR FUSE AND CANT FIND IN OWNERS MANUAL WHERE IT MIGHT BE,ALSO THE RADIO DOESNT WORK AND DOME LIGHT WHEN THE CHIMING IS GOING ON STAYS ON AND U CAN PLAY AROUND WITH THE IGNITON AND GET CHIMING TO GO OFF SOMETIMES DROVE 60 MILES OTHER DAY WITHIT ON ,WONDER I AM STILL PARTLY SANE,,THE TRUCK WAS WRECKED BY THE BED RECENTLY BUT RUNS GREAT ,ALSO ANOTHER PROB LOL,,THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ONAND GOES OFF AT IT;S OWN PACE,,AND abs does same as the check engine light can anyone help and when is next forum on rangers and where do i find the times of the forums.if anyone has any ideals plz help this is our only vehicle and hubby had bad heart and goes to dostor and hospital alot plz help ty
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Chimes, light on are usual for this model Ranger. The door open/closed switch is inside the door panel, near the lock/latch mechanism. Sometimes WD40 or electrical cleaner sprayed into the lock mechanism can free up a gummed up switch. Otherwise, the door panel has to come off to get to the switch to either clean it better or replace it. Do both of them in both doors.

    No idea about radio problem, just can't guess about something like this.

    Check engine light - get the 'codes' pulled. Autozone will usually do this for free and give you a general idea of what the code/s mean....
  • gwaldgwald Member Posts: 1
    Hi - The truck was running and starting fine. Went to start it up to go home, and it just turned over, won't start.

    I believe that I have it mostly figured out. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn on the ignition.

    - checked the inertia switch as best that I could: the button was pushed in, but I toggled it back and forth and
    checked for continuity - 3 connections, marked as NO-C-NC, which I assume is "normally open-C-normally closed".

    With the button in, the circuit is continuous between C and "normally closed", and with the button out, the circuit is continuous between "normally open" and C. I checked the voltage across the wires that go to C and NC, and I see 12V. I think all is well there..., but I don't quite understand why 3 wires...

    - On to the fuel pump: not very accessible, ouch; I want to see if there is voltage at the electric fuel pump mounted on the top of the plastic tank. The problem that I have, is that I don't understand how to get the wires off of the pump! There are little pieces of soft rubber near the connector for each wire. Can I take these wires off somehow to check for voltage? I'll have to look at a wiring diagram, because I would have expected 2 wires, 12V and ground, but there are more.

    If it turns out that there is voltage at the pump and it still doesn't pump (can't hear a thing) then is there anything else to look at, assuming that the connections are good?

    btw, I checked the fuse, and it is good.

    Thanks!
  • rdrage73rdrage73 Member Posts: 5
    Yes, you do have to take the upper intake off.I just did mine on my 98 2.5l and it's easier than it would first appear,but still a pain.
  • rdrage73rdrage73 Member Posts: 5
    Here recently my 98 Ranger has developed a very loud and annoying squeeking coming from the front end somewhere.Sounds like it could possibly be bad shocks but I don't see any signs of leakage and I don't want to replace the shocks only to find out it's the coils,bushings,etc. Has anyone alse had this problem or know if Rangers have a notorious problem like this?
  • rdrage73rdrage73 Member Posts: 5
    I went and took the time to do a full tune up to my 98 ranger with 115,000 miles on and afterwards I notice that it makes a rough, grinding,rattling type noise when accelerating but not everytime,more so when the higher the rpms to a certain point and then it's fine.No noise and runs really smooth.Don't own a gun,so I can't shoot it. Any suggestions?
  • rwebbrwebb Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem with my ranger. Have you had any additional luck on your troubleshooting. Your help is greatly appreciated. I have reviewed the Haynes and the diagram. The difficulty I am having is that this is an intermittent problem and does'nt stay broken long enough for me to find the problem. Thank you, Rich
  • nyrican4573nyrican4573 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find it? I too can't get my Ranger smogged due to the engine check lite. It passed all other emmision tests (Calif) but won't pass the vehicle due to that lite being on. It too is due to an L1443 purge valve problem.
  • montess2k4montess2k4 Member Posts: 6
    i had the same problem on my 2001 ranger. what was wrong w/ mine was the swaybar bushings. very cheap to fix. i believe the bushings were 9 bucks a piece.
  • montess2k4montess2k4 Member Posts: 6
    my 01 ranger has some chattering that can be heard in the cab and can be felt in the gas petal when accelerating. it usually does this when accelerating between 35 and 50 mph. anyone have the same problem or know whats the problem?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Is this just 'pinging'?

    Is this a 3Liter?

    If so, 3L are notorious for pinging. And there is little that can be done about it other than use higher octane gasoline. Try mid grade. If still there try premium.
  • rocketfootballrocketfootball Member Posts: 6
    I have a 97 Ranger Std. Cab w/o AC. My fan just started going bad tonite. It only works on the highest setting. What is wrong with it and can it be fixed cheap?? Thank You for Your Help!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The fan motor is only a 1 speed motor. Slower speeds are obtained by using a 'resistor pack' with 3 different resistors that allow the 3 lower speed. High speed bypasses the resistor pack, therefore it will still work when the resistor pack is burned up.

    The resistor pack is under the hood, on passenger side, usually on the top of the air box for the heating/cooling system. It should have several wires going into it, and smell like it's burned up... And it is.
  • rdrage73rdrage73 Member Posts: 5
    I just to it to my friends shop because I couldn't stand the squeaking anymore.It turns out that the ball joints needed to be lubed.I can't beleive I endured hours of annoyance just because of that, but atleast it was a cheap fix.
  • rdrage73rdrage73 Member Posts: 5
    While it was at my friends shop I also had him look into another mysterious noise. Though after driving400 miles, it was no longer mysterious. It was something in my transmission. As it turns out,the noise suppressor on the end of the driveshaft had broken and the clutch slave cylinder has a very small leak that I didn't know about causing it to run almost completely dry. He suggested keeping an eye on the fluid level rather than replacing it. He said to change it he would have to drop the transmission and he was going to have to do that,then I should have the clutch replaced at the same time and that would cost about $800.00 total with his discount and the discount he would give me. I took his advice needless to say.The fact that it has 117,500 miles on it was the main reason I opted for quick,cheap fix .
  • kpollkpoll Member Posts: 1
    1998 Ranger manual trans. When I step on the brakes my right directionals come on solid with the brake lights? I don't know where to look. Bulb? Ground? Switch?
  • montyanger98montyanger98 Member Posts: 5
    hi josh here just woundering what you sprayed and where it was located on the truck
    jmonty18@verizon.net
  • chrizjenchrizjen Member Posts: 1
    Well, I recently went to autozone and had the code read. It tells me that the Purge Flow sensor probably needs replacing. But when I had problems starting my truck in the rain I was curious. Do these two problems go together? So I went to Dobbs and they told me that the only way for them o find the problem was to charge me 95 dollars and they could pinpoint it. Well, all they came back with was the same code I already had. They cant find anything that would make it start like that in the rain. Anyway. I have a 97 Ranger. Dobbs tells me it will cost an additional 200 dollars to replace the sensor. The parts stores are closed today and Im wondering that is something that is easy that I could do myself for cheaper. Thanks for any info in advance ! I really to apreciate any advice.
    Jennifer
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    He probably used contact cleaner (WD40 works in a pinch) and sprayed it on the switch in the slot visible when the door is open that mates with the latch. If that doesn't work may need to remove the door panel to replace the switch.
  • rangermangrangermang Member Posts: 27
    Hey actually me dad and I did tthe plugs and wires without removing the intake, you can actually reach the back two plugs with an extension on the socket wrench, and the far one you can reach from underneath, hopefully this will help you in the future!
  • redhawk56redhawk56 Member Posts: 1
    Has anybody out there done a V8 conversion on a 92 ranger, It had a 2.3, 5 speed. Looking to install small block,auto. Any info greatly appt. Hawk
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    google, google, google
  • gavlik711gavlik711 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 Ranger with the 3.0 V6 and and 5 speed manual, and my gas gauge does the same thing, and I too get anywhere from 17 to 19 mpg....and its only a 2WD, so these Rangers are a little disappointing on milage, but its been a good truck. I just rolled over 163,000 miles. Those have been some pretty hard miles too, anyway, yeah what your truck is doing is probably normal.
  • gavlik711gavlik711 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 Ranger XLT with the 3.0 Flex Fuel V6 and a 5 speed manual. I just rolled over 163,000 miles on it, and its recently started giving me a really weird problem....sometimes when I back of the throtle, it doesnt idle down right away, it stays at high rpm for a couple seconds. I checked all the mechanicals, its not the pedal, not the cable, not the linkage, and not the throtle valve. What is making hard to diagnose is how random it is, there is no pattern to it, it just randomly does it. Does anyone know what its doing and how to fix it??? Finally, the whole time I've owned this truck, its eaten up front brakes like they're candy, and occasionally will make aweful grinding noises as if there is no pads in the brakes at all, and when i check the pads, they're still good. Does anyone else have the same problem and know how to fix it??
  • gavlik711gavlik711 Member Posts: 4
    when you say chattering, do you mean clattering or knocking and pinging?? It could be detonation, my '99 3.0 V6 does the same thing under acceleration.....check your plugs and make sure they're in good shape, and also run some fuel system cleaner through it, and if neither of those fix it, the only thing left that I know to do is to simply run a higher octane fuel....thats what I have to do to my truck, I run 89 or 90 octane instead of regular unleaded.
  • gavlik711gavlik711 Member Posts: 4
    have you checked your fuel filter? that might be it. good luck!
  • rossstocksrossstocks Member Posts: 1
    2000 3.0 Flex Fuel 2WD AT

    Code downloads to "inadequate EGR flow," replacing EGR valve no help. Read online that common mistake is to replace EGR valve without first checking other things. Doh! Don't really have the time to mess with this, so took it to a shop (a parts swapper). They want almost $500 to do several things to it. Yeah, right, and it'll probably still have the problem.

    Any experiences with this? What's the most likely culprit? What are the easiest/least expensive Do-It-Yourself tests and/or installations that might resolve the problem?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Doesn't idle down - Check for either a sticking/binding throttle cable or a very dirty throttle body around the butterfly valve. With this milage, the dirty throttle might be the problem. Cleaning - I think most Rangers have warnings about cleaning the throttle body with carb cleaner. It supposed to have a 'coating' on it. But if there is a ridge of gunk around the butterfly valve, it will have to be removed some way. If you take the flexable intake tube off, and can see that its really gunked up in there, I would start cleaning. Clean the butterfly also, front and back. There might be some product sold that will clean it and not harm the 'coating'. When I opened up my 94 4L, I couldn't really see any 'coating', but I do think there was a warning sticker there about cleaning it.
    Or, the really simple problem also. A floor mat that balls up and keeps the gas peddle pressed down. Happened to me. People don't think this can happen, but it sometime does.

    Brakes - The slide area on the outside of the caliper, where the calipers slide in when the brake is depressed and slide out to release the pad pressure may never been cleaned. And the 'pins' that hold the caliper and pads together also have to be cleaned. (Consider replacing pins when replacing pads.) Both of these also must be greased with special brake grease. If there is rust on the slide area and general gunk on the pins inside the calipers, the pads will not release and move back away from the rotor. Mechanics do brake jobs and do not clean up the 'moving' parts, just put new pads on. And cause these kind of problems. Especially prevalent in snow/salt areas.
    Or, you have a collapsed rubber brake line. These can sometimes collapse internally, can't be seen from the outside. This retains the brake fluid pressure after releasing the brake, keeping pads on the rotor and eats up pads.

    All these problems are rather common when getting into the high milage area you are in.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Yep, a lot of good EGR valves are replaced. And the code is still there. EGR valves actually seldom fail.

    I can't tell you exactly what the 'real' problem may be. But I think there are vacumn switches (electrical solnoid vacumn switch) 'upstream' of the EGR valve on its vacumn control line that are sometimes the real problem.

    Or breaks / splits in the vacumn lines.

    Or the lines are bad to the gasoline vapor recovery cannistor, or the valves in the cannistor top are bad.

    Finding the right failing component when the EGR valve code is set takes a pretty good mechanic, usually running a 'problem tree diagnoistic' set of tests and inspections from a service manual.

    Checking these vacumn valve and the vapor cannistor are tough to do unless you have a manual that tells what is supposed to be open, what is to hold vacumn, when solnoid switched vacumn valves open or close, etc.

    About all you can do without a manual is visually inspect lines and fittings.
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