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Comments
My truck also idled just fine, but my mechanic explained that with the four cyl the front coil controls the plugs on the intake side. These are the ones which do most of the work. The rear coil controls the plugs on the exhaust side which are more for emissions purposes. These plugs fire when the engine is cold, at low speeds, or under a load. The computer will at higher speeds shut down the rear coil and those "exhaust" plugs.
As best as I can figure when the truck is idling these extra plugs must be firing and keeping the miss to a minimum. However, when the engine warms up or reaches a certain rpm they quit firing and the miss immediately becomes more noticeable.
1) do i really need "special" tools to remove the old unit?
2) once removed, is it simply unplugging the existing plugs?
3)is the new player as simple to install as simply plugging back in those plugs and sliding back into bay?
I have seen several used factory cd players that have come out of the rangers/windstars and other ford/mercury vehicles and say they are all compatible. How do i insure that they are compatible with my 98 Ranger.
Thanks sooo much for all the help.
Dale In Asheville NC
Anyway, my problem started rather suddenly one day, and it was obviously an ignition issue.
the white with blue stripe wire .From the plug at transfer case to where it terminates.This truck was bought at auction it was improperly wired:(from battery to toggle switch in cab out to switch at transfer case ).I want to rewire this correctly can someone please assist with some information .the schematics in the book I bought don't go far enough to tell you .I do know the wire at the plug connecting to the swich at the transfer case is white with a blue stripe.This ranger has a 2.9 with automatic trans if that helps .
It might be your Idle Control Valve. Buy usually it causes 'surging' at idle, or just a too high or low idle. It usually doesn't cause problems between shifts (I think.)
Anyway, take off the Idle Control VAlve, it can sometimes be cleaned. It usually is a silver and black cylinder about the size but longer compared to a 35mm film cannister. On the intake. With 2 wires into in. Be careful of the gasket under it, don't tear it so it can be reused. It has two bolts holding it on.
When removed, you will it is basically 2 parts. An electric solonid on one end, and a small manual valve on the other. Gasoline gunk or carbon can get into the valve and stop its movement. Clean with carb cleaner, electronic cleaner, etc. HOLD THE VALVE SO THE ELECTONIC END IS UP. DO NOT GET CARB CLEANER INTO THE SOLONID END, IT WILL EAT UP THE WINDINGS AND RUIN IT!
Put it back on. Maybe this will help. Or, maybe there is still my 'forgotten' problem.
Do some other searches for Ranger sites and search there for your problem. I've seen it, but don't remember what the solution is...... Getting old is bad....
hope this was helpful
mjconstr@sbcglobal.net
mrart.
I've never worked on one, but in the very 'olden days', where there was a manual fuel pump activated by a steel rod, and the rod came out when the pump was removed. The rod was tough to get back in and positioned on the lever in the pump it needed to contact.
Shade tree mechanics put a big glob of grease on the rod which held it it place when it was slid back in the block. The grease was then dissolved by the oil and didn't cause any problem...
Any help is greatly appreciated,
thanks
Are you low on oil?
If not, I would find the sensor and clean the connection of the wire where it connects to the sensor.
Aaron
Sorry I dont have a fix but I would like to figure out what this problem is!
From what I am understanding, a fixed orfice is used instead of a TXV. I guess that is sort of like a cap tube or heat pump. Where is this orfice located? Is it inside of the plastic housing for the evaporator or is it located in the engine compartment? I really don't know what I am looking for, or at, as far as the orfice goes.
I have a working knowledge of air conditioning systems, but no experience with automotive air conditioners.
Thanks for your help!
Took the advice and cleaned the connection, I'll have to see if it works or not, thanks
No idea about radio problem, just can't guess about something like this.
Check engine light - get the 'codes' pulled. Autozone will usually do this for free and give you a general idea of what the code/s mean....
I believe that I have it mostly figured out. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn on the ignition.
- checked the inertia switch as best that I could: the button was pushed in, but I toggled it back and forth and
checked for continuity - 3 connections, marked as NO-C-NC, which I assume is "normally open-C-normally closed".
With the button in, the circuit is continuous between C and "normally closed", and with the button out, the circuit is continuous between "normally open" and C. I checked the voltage across the wires that go to C and NC, and I see 12V. I think all is well there..., but I don't quite understand why 3 wires...
- On to the fuel pump: not very accessible, ouch; I want to see if there is voltage at the electric fuel pump mounted on the top of the plastic tank. The problem that I have, is that I don't understand how to get the wires off of the pump! There are little pieces of soft rubber near the connector for each wire. Can I take these wires off somehow to check for voltage? I'll have to look at a wiring diagram, because I would have expected 2 wires, 12V and ground, but there are more.
If it turns out that there is voltage at the pump and it still doesn't pump (can't hear a thing) then is there anything else to look at, assuming that the connections are good?
btw, I checked the fuse, and it is good.
Thanks!
Is this a 3Liter?
If so, 3L are notorious for pinging. And there is little that can be done about it other than use higher octane gasoline. Try mid grade. If still there try premium.
The resistor pack is under the hood, on passenger side, usually on the top of the air box for the heating/cooling system. It should have several wires going into it, and smell like it's burned up... And it is.
jmonty18@verizon.net
Jennifer
Code downloads to "inadequate EGR flow," replacing EGR valve no help. Read online that common mistake is to replace EGR valve without first checking other things. Doh! Don't really have the time to mess with this, so took it to a shop (a parts swapper). They want almost $500 to do several things to it. Yeah, right, and it'll probably still have the problem.
Any experiences with this? What's the most likely culprit? What are the easiest/least expensive Do-It-Yourself tests and/or installations that might resolve the problem?
Or, the really simple problem also. A floor mat that balls up and keeps the gas peddle pressed down. Happened to me. People don't think this can happen, but it sometime does.
Brakes - The slide area on the outside of the caliper, where the calipers slide in when the brake is depressed and slide out to release the pad pressure may never been cleaned. And the 'pins' that hold the caliper and pads together also have to be cleaned. (Consider replacing pins when replacing pads.) Both of these also must be greased with special brake grease. If there is rust on the slide area and general gunk on the pins inside the calipers, the pads will not release and move back away from the rotor. Mechanics do brake jobs and do not clean up the 'moving' parts, just put new pads on. And cause these kind of problems. Especially prevalent in snow/salt areas.
Or, you have a collapsed rubber brake line. These can sometimes collapse internally, can't be seen from the outside. This retains the brake fluid pressure after releasing the brake, keeping pads on the rotor and eats up pads.
All these problems are rather common when getting into the high milage area you are in.
I can't tell you exactly what the 'real' problem may be. But I think there are vacumn switches (electrical solnoid vacumn switch) 'upstream' of the EGR valve on its vacumn control line that are sometimes the real problem.
Or breaks / splits in the vacumn lines.
Or the lines are bad to the gasoline vapor recovery cannistor, or the valves in the cannistor top are bad.
Finding the right failing component when the EGR valve code is set takes a pretty good mechanic, usually running a 'problem tree diagnoistic' set of tests and inspections from a service manual.
Checking these vacumn valve and the vapor cannistor are tough to do unless you have a manual that tells what is supposed to be open, what is to hold vacumn, when solnoid switched vacumn valves open or close, etc.
About all you can do without a manual is visually inspect lines and fittings.