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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • flyinstraightflyinstraight Member Posts: 3
    I drive a 98 ford ranger but i don't have that problem. But I do drive a crown vic for work(cop). I had the same vibrating betwwen 40 and 60 mph. Found out that my car had a bad coil. Coil was replaced and problem was gone. Ford has had many problems with coil during these years with crown vics. I think it has to do with the engine and balancing itself with one cylinder kickin in and out or not firing at all. Hope this helps.
  • flyinstraightflyinstraight Member Posts: 3
    if you have a radio with two holes on each side yes you will need a special tool. its inexpensive and easy to use. You can buy a instalation kit at wal mart. as long as you have an understanding for what wires go where you should be fine. as far as other stock units im not sure. i would think you have a den and a half so any ford product could work.
  • flyinstraightflyinstraight Member Posts: 3
    i've have gone through sevral different attempts to fix this problem. Ive even bought new sensors. If you can do it yourself just pull the sensor and clean it with a electrical solvent. Using wd-40 will atract dirt and eventually you will have to do it all over again. the plunger is getting stuck and not returning to the full position. The only thing that sucks si reaching your hand into the dorr getting scracthed by the metal.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    You may have a severe problem. This is about the year that had a problem with one of the 'valves' in the air box - the stuff under the dash that controls air movement thru the A/C and heater coils, defroster, etc. The plastic 'posts' on one of the air flapper valves would break. And the valve would no longer move. Huge repair to just get to it - remove dash and the outside of the air box. And then, the factory fix was to replace the air box.

    If this is the problem, a lot of money. For removal and then the air box replacement. On some other Ranger boards there was a self-repair description involving drilling thru the broken plastic post, inserting a pin, etc, etc.

    Of course, you might have another problem with the Heat/AC. But as I said, 1997 is about the year with the broken flapper post problem....
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    If 'brakes lites work sometimes when pressing hard' usually means the electrical brake switch is going bad. It is under the dash, on the assembly above the brake pedal. Pedal movement actuates it. Electrical connector goes into it.

    It comes off with a pin/clip. Note the sequence of pin, nylon bushing, washers, etc and how the switch fits into all of this.

    A new switch is cheep, at auto parts house for about $8, don't have to buy from Ford.

    I replace 3 times on my 94 in about 9 years of ownership.
  • brysuebrysue Member Posts: 35
    Very good information. Thank you very much. I will let you know what resolves the problem.
  • brysuebrysue Member Posts: 35
    Ford engineers say it should be the timing belt and pulley(s).
  • woodmlpjwoodmlpj Member Posts: 1
    My 1994 Ranger has about 75,000 miles on it. About 3 years ago, I began having problems shifting into gear when the truck was stopped with the engine running. At first the problem was intermittent, but now it seems to be continuous for the most part. I can get it into gear, but it takes force. Is this a clutch problem? Any ideas on repair costs?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I'm not very informed on manuals, but this seems like a clutch problem.

    You have a hydrolic clutch. Is it full of fluid? If it is leaking fluid, this may be the problem, rather than actually needing a rebuild on the clutch.

    I've no idea what a clutch would cost. There is a 'slave' hydrolic cylinder down on the clutch end that is a pain to replace and bleed. If you put a new clutch in, I would consider replacing this slave cylinder since it is so hard to get to and bleed.
  • rf396rf396 Member Posts: 5
    my 99 ranger idles a little bumpy but accelerates ok but lately has been feeling like it's holding back at about 30-40mph twice it's had a bad stumble at about 70 when the tank was near empty. all things considered Im figuring a bad injector or possibly on 02 sensor. anyone else have this issue? if so what did you for it? Any help is appreciated thanks Rick
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    your guess is a good one bolivar.
  • jeromy1998jeromy1998 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1996 Ranger, 2.3L 4 cyl. when I take off, it feels real sluggish, and has little power. Once I am going, it is fine. I had it hooked up to a computer, and it showed It was a bad EGR valve, but I changed it just a couple months ago. could anyone help me with this problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Did you clean the tube that feeds from the EGR into the manifold?
  • tstotlertstotler Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 ranger that has an intermittent problem. Very rarely, right after I start it and pull out, the first time I touch the brakes they grab real hard. The rears skid and the fronts grab hard, it is like I slammed on them. When this happens the peal resistance goes way down, lower than normal. It forces everyone to slide forward in their seats. After that first skid, it won't do it again. I thought this was very strange. Any thoughts???
  • glenntcglenntc Member Posts: 1
    I am buying a 2000 Ranger (2.5L, automatic, 2WD) tomorrow if it checks out mechanically. Is there anything in particular I should look for? My understanding is that these are basically good trucks.

    Thanks
  • bpwilsonbpwilson Member Posts: 1
    I had the same thing happen to my 2003 Ranger. I just washed the truck and the brakes get a layer of flash rust which increases the coef. of friction. It will be fine after a few (careful) brake applications. This is not unusal, particularly with drum brakes.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Yep, Ranger rear drum brakes are well known for 'grabbing'. This can happen just overnight, in damp, rainy weather. Some people have indicated a reduction after new shoes are used. But others have said no matter what kind of brake shoes, they had grabbing.

    What I did - just after getting moving, test the brakes. If they grab, then just 'ride' the brakes, gently engage the brake and with the left foot and keep moving for a hundred feet or so. This will remove overnight rust and heat up the shoes, driving off moisture. They will not grab any more.

    I see no reason grabbing brakes should effect the pedal resistance or how far they go down. You might have another problem. If you have a brake fluid leak in a wheel cylinder, brake fluid leaking on a brake shoe can also cause it to grab. This usually will not 'go away' but will continue to grab even after driving it. Lay down and look at the inside of the rear wheel. If it is leaking much, you should be able to see the dark stains from the brake fluid. If this is your problem, take it to a shop unless you know how to change the wheel cylinder and then remove the air from the brake lines.
  • jrmccoyjrmccoy Member Posts: 1
    Rich,

    I am the poster child for this problem...exactly as described... '94 Ford Ranger-intermittant, fuel pump won't prime as per normal but engine will crank/turnover (not start and run) when I turn the key...aggravated by warm weather...I've been dealing with this problem 2 years. I won't stay broken long enough to diagnose, but will stay broken long enough to strand me all over town. I've changed the fuel pump, bypassed the inertia switch (taken it out completely) so looking like you for solution. I was interested in earlier postings about the fuel pump relay switch...I havent bypassed it yet, but will try it. Have you come across a solution? Thanks, J.R. McCoy
  • 83ranger83ranger Member Posts: 2
    my 83 has the same problem,I'm still looking for the source, I'm checking for missing plugs, weatherstripping, loose nuts and bolts etc, if I find it I'll let ya know.
  • 83ranger83ranger Member Posts: 2
    I am stuck! I'm trying to replace gaskets and seals but can't get the oil pump off to remove the pan, according to 'chilton's' trere is only 1 nut and bolt, it still won't come off. any suggestions? :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, I think the 'fuel pump relay switch' is actually a relay. Kind of a fuse, but not exactly. But I think it is in the underhood 'fuse box' or right by it. The relay for the fuel pump can give intermittant problems. I would identify the relay for the fuel pump and put a new one in.

    I think there may be more than one relay in the box, and they are the same. Cheep diagnoistic - or get you going if you are stranded - switch the fuel pump one with one of the others. But you should replace a bad one.
  • jeromy1998jeromy1998 Member Posts: 3
    I am kind of "dumb" when it comes to cars and working on them...so, how exactly would I clean the tube? Sorry, and thanks!
  • nienhnienh Member Posts: 3
    your door adjar switch in the latch is stuck. Lube up with latch with a spray that has a stork so you can stick the stork in the cracks. Then work the door a bunch and it should correct the problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    well all car systems are different and I don't know your car at all...so you'll need to consult a workshop manual on ways to deal with the EGR system...I was just recalling how on some of the cars I owned the tube that feels the exhaust gases back to the manifold got all "coked" up. I had to remove it and ream it out.
  • cniemanncniemann Member Posts: 9
    I've got a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0 and it pings under acceleration too. Dealer said same thing, inherent problem.
  • pballer2005pballer2005 Member Posts: 2
    They are great trucks, but being Fords, they have there quirks. Alot of people have problems with the interior dome light and "Door Ajar" light staying on even when all doors are closed, and if you ever run the gas tank completely dry, I mean till the truck stops running, you will ruin the fuel pump and have problems with fuel for the rest of your life. And my alternator went out at about 70k miles, but it kinda happened after i hit a big bump while offroading O:) If you don't want to bring it to a dealer to work on, they are a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to work on yourself, the engine compartment is pretty compact and its hard to reach anything. You can fix the interior light problem by spraying some kind of lube in the door latch, I used a silicon lubricant meant for garage doors but it worked great, then opening and closing the door, gently, a couple times to work it in. Other than that, great trucks.
  • pballer2005pballer2005 Member Posts: 2
    you guys with fuel pump problems, this is prolly dumb since i'm not entirely sure how this all works, but there is a fuel pump kill switch in my 2003 ranger edge just under the dashboard on the passanger side, right by where someones feet would be. could it be possible that someone kicked that switch and now its loose or something? i've personaly never had this problem so i wouldn't know exactly.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    He said he's already wired around the 'inertia switch', which is what you are talking about.

    In general, not a good idea. This switch is there to shut the fuel pump down, and the associated flow of gas out of the tank, in case of an accident.
  • banroadsaltbanroadsalt Member Posts: 2
    I am in the middle of taking my tank out for a similar reason. I'm guessing road salt has sat up there and rotted out the line or the gasket. What am I about to find? thanks dw
  • blueranger85blueranger85 Member Posts: 2
    Good luck thanks
  • howardyateshowardyates Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 1998 ranger and the engine turned off on him and is unable to restart. When you turn the ignition key on you can hear what sounds like the solenoid clicking but the starter does not engage. I checked the battery / connections and it seems to be ok. What are some other things I can check for,possible fuses?
  • tstotlertstotler Member Posts: 3
    Does your ranger have any power?? Test the voltage on the battery. The battery or the alternator could be shot. If the battery is weak, you will hear fast, quiet clicking but no engaging of the starter. I had a car once where my alternator went bad and I was able to drive for a while before it died. The computer operated ok off of the battery until it drained it completely. I didn't know anything was wrong until the car began to run like crap then it stalled, and I was unable to re-start it. Obviously when I tested the alternator it was bad. The battery was ok but I changed it just to be sure. I suspect this is not your situation but I just wanted to open you up to the possibility.
  • tstotlertstotler Member Posts: 3
    An update to my initial post.....

    I just had these symptoms yesterday after a rain and a chilly night. I noticed that the fronts didn't grab, just the rears like you had said. Also...the pedal resistance didn't go down. This must have been my imagination from when I was trying to remember the symptoms after a long time. By the way, I rode the brakes for a few feet and they cleared right up. Thanks a lot, you guys have been a real help.
  • reedo1231reedo1231 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 Ranger 4.0 v-6... just recently its started to run horribly.. backfiring, hard and low idle, loss of power, etc. Ive had it on the scanner at work, and nothing showed up except once a code came up for the MAF.. saying there was a intermediate short. So i got a new MAF and tried it out.. it didnt do anything (returned it). Me and the other techs have checked it up and down and have not come up with anything. I was Hoping someone on here has come across somthing like this and is able to help me out. Thanks Much. Reed
  • xray5xray5 Member Posts: 1
    My neighbor has the same kind of truck. The only way I see possible is to remove the intake plenum that is blocking access to those spark plugs. It may look difficult, but it's really not that difficult to perform.

    I wish you well,

    John
  • reedo1231reedo1231 Member Posts: 2
    Well instead of checking the most obvious and easy thing first i struggled for a while.. but finally i started to check the most obvious things ([non-permissible content removed] backwards) but whatever... i found that on cylinder 6 the spark plug's porcelin on the electrode side of it was actually cracked.. and thank god for the moron before me who put bosch platinum 4s in it, because the 4 electrodes on it saved me a new motor, by catching the chunk of porcelin from letting it fall into the cylinder
  • rangermangrangermang Member Posts: 27
    hey all if anyone out there has a 99 ranger with the 4cyl 2.5L 5sp manual i have a bit of advice that i finally used myself...go buy a new truck! i just recently bought a 2005 nissan frontier and it is a big step up! thats not to say you should go buy one, but definately buy a newer ranger, like 05 or 06, or something different. 99 seemed to be the year that Ford shrugged the ranger off when it was asking to be inspected before production. Hope this helps, and again, im not here to be a troll on the forum, just want to make sure people realize that there are much better cars out there for the money...
  • mysterious1mysterious1 Member Posts: 7
    peonyman,

    Did you ever figure out what caused this problem?

    I have a 2003 XLT FX 4X4 SuperCab, that does the exact same thing. :confuse:
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    My 1995 Ranger starts 1 in 10 times! It has the 4.0 liter engine. Sometimes it will start and just barely run or idle (like it's coughing). When it runs it runs fine. Most of the time it runs and starts just fine but it's that one time that makes you wonder. My buddy said it might be the electronic control module. He had a similar problem before. Any thoughts??? :confuse:
  • junktruckjunktruck Member Posts: 2
    Rangerboy,
    I don't think I can help you much, but I have a 1994 4.0L V6 @ 95000mi and I have the exact same problem probably. I at first thought it was the vaccum system; but it is very difficult to find leaks--even with a tube test. Today I'm trying out a new fuel filter just to see what happens...
    If somthing works for you let me know
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    Yeah, I replaced my fuel filter and it helped but I'm still having problems. Another strange thing is that when you turn it over the power locks click on and off. I don't know if anyone else might know what causes this??? Today it died when I went to lunch. I was actually driving when it stalled out.
  • geojimgeojim Member Posts: 2
    My '94 5-speed Ford Ranger truck with 109K miles on it originally belonged to my daughter. Once she got back from Iraq she gave me truck as she could not afford the gas to go back and forth to work. Anyway, the manual transmission now seems to be having a problem and I'm looking for some suggestions as I do not know very much about trucks. The manual transmission has a E97A sticker on it.

    After it warms up, a scraping/rattling noise appears to be coming from the transmission when it is any gear. Goes away in neutral. It also becomes harder to put in gear, especially reverse. I check the fluid level and it's right at the filler plug, although the fluid does look a little dirty. The reservoir under the hood is at the right level.

    Am I looking at major $'s transmission/clutch problems? I could change the fluid if you think that would fix the problem (I know it cannot hurt, but I need to get an idea of the cost involved in repair). Appreciate any suggestions. Jim C.
    __________________
    1993 Geo Metro - 1.0, MT, A/C - 331K Miles
    1992 Acura Integra - 1.8, AT, A/C - 262K Miles
    1994 Ford Ranger - 4.0, MT, A/C - 109K Miles
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    I would have to guess at a clutch/throwout bearing replacement. Doubt that there is anything wrong with the tranny itself.
  • banroadsaltbanroadsalt Member Posts: 2
    I think the conection to the sending unit is the problem. the same salt that rotted out the line also seems to have disolved the end of the wire harness. Does anyone know if you can buy the end (the connector) or do ya have to replace the entire wire harness? Has anyone jury rigged that connector or am I askin' for real trouble?
  • geojimgeojim Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. I was hoping it sounded like less than a full transmission rebuild/replacement. Do you have a ballpark idea of what a shop whould charge for a clutch/thowout bearing job?
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Sorry, no idea about a price range. Sorta depends on what actually has to be replaced. If you plan on getting rid of the truck in the next year or so then you may be able to get by without replacing the pressure plate. If I were going to keep it I would replace pilot bearing,clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing along with hydraulics if it is hydraulic clutch. In other words, a complete rebuild.

    On the other hand, it may be something as simple and inexpensive as the throw-out bearing.

    Anyone would just be guessing until the clutch is actually pulled out.......
  • adrian5366adrian5366 Member Posts: 4
    my 93 ranger 4.0 stx 2wd has been pinging for some time now usually above 65mph and on exceleration. I use super unleaded and still pings, also white smoke comes out when I start it and I have to put in at least a quart a month of transmision fluid , no leaks , it just goes. I read some of the posts and one said to tighten the lower intake manifold bolts, would this help or would it be a waste of time.
  • 1blau1blau Member Posts: 1
    i just bought a '90 2.3L ranger a few weeks ago and i know this won't help you adrian5366, but i am running a complete fuel system cleaner with this tank of fuel and my rough idle and pinging went away immediately. i don't know if this will help anyone else, but it is an inexpensive thing to try if you have a rough idle. i had replaced PCV valve, checked for vacuum leaks, and replaced EGR valve position sensor with no avail. i am also getting my timing belt done today. this truck had factory timing belt with 178k miles! ouch.
  • omaskateromaskater Member Posts: 1
    i am pretty new to the whole maintenance part of things on my truck (ford ranger 1999 3.0l v6) and i am wondering if anyone can tell me where the radiator overflow bottle is.
    thanks
  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    Usually found hanging on the side of the radiator and marked "coolant"
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