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Comments
If this is the problem, a lot of money. For removal and then the air box replacement. On some other Ranger boards there was a self-repair description involving drilling thru the broken plastic post, inserting a pin, etc, etc.
Of course, you might have another problem with the Heat/AC. But as I said, 1997 is about the year with the broken flapper post problem....
It comes off with a pin/clip. Note the sequence of pin, nylon bushing, washers, etc and how the switch fits into all of this.
A new switch is cheep, at auto parts house for about $8, don't have to buy from Ford.
I replace 3 times on my 94 in about 9 years of ownership.
You have a hydrolic clutch. Is it full of fluid? If it is leaking fluid, this may be the problem, rather than actually needing a rebuild on the clutch.
I've no idea what a clutch would cost. There is a 'slave' hydrolic cylinder down on the clutch end that is a pain to replace and bleed. If you put a new clutch in, I would consider replacing this slave cylinder since it is so hard to get to and bleed.
Thanks
What I did - just after getting moving, test the brakes. If they grab, then just 'ride' the brakes, gently engage the brake and with the left foot and keep moving for a hundred feet or so. This will remove overnight rust and heat up the shoes, driving off moisture. They will not grab any more.
I see no reason grabbing brakes should effect the pedal resistance or how far they go down. You might have another problem. If you have a brake fluid leak in a wheel cylinder, brake fluid leaking on a brake shoe can also cause it to grab. This usually will not 'go away' but will continue to grab even after driving it. Lay down and look at the inside of the rear wheel. If it is leaking much, you should be able to see the dark stains from the brake fluid. If this is your problem, take it to a shop unless you know how to change the wheel cylinder and then remove the air from the brake lines.
I am the poster child for this problem...exactly as described... '94 Ford Ranger-intermittant, fuel pump won't prime as per normal but engine will crank/turnover (not start and run) when I turn the key...aggravated by warm weather...I've been dealing with this problem 2 years. I won't stay broken long enough to diagnose, but will stay broken long enough to strand me all over town. I've changed the fuel pump, bypassed the inertia switch (taken it out completely) so looking like you for solution. I was interested in earlier postings about the fuel pump relay switch...I havent bypassed it yet, but will try it. Have you come across a solution? Thanks, J.R. McCoy
I think there may be more than one relay in the box, and they are the same. Cheep diagnoistic - or get you going if you are stranded - switch the fuel pump one with one of the others. But you should replace a bad one.
In general, not a good idea. This switch is there to shut the fuel pump down, and the associated flow of gas out of the tank, in case of an accident.
I just had these symptoms yesterday after a rain and a chilly night. I noticed that the fronts didn't grab, just the rears like you had said. Also...the pedal resistance didn't go down. This must have been my imagination from when I was trying to remember the symptoms after a long time. By the way, I rode the brakes for a few feet and they cleared right up. Thanks a lot, you guys have been a real help.
I wish you well,
John
Did you ever figure out what caused this problem?
I have a 2003 XLT FX 4X4 SuperCab, that does the exact same thing. :confuse:
I don't think I can help you much, but I have a 1994 4.0L V6 @ 95000mi and I have the exact same problem probably. I at first thought it was the vaccum system; but it is very difficult to find leaks--even with a tube test. Today I'm trying out a new fuel filter just to see what happens...
If somthing works for you let me know
After it warms up, a scraping/rattling noise appears to be coming from the transmission when it is any gear. Goes away in neutral. It also becomes harder to put in gear, especially reverse. I check the fluid level and it's right at the filler plug, although the fluid does look a little dirty. The reservoir under the hood is at the right level.
Am I looking at major $'s transmission/clutch problems? I could change the fluid if you think that would fix the problem (I know it cannot hurt, but I need to get an idea of the cost involved in repair). Appreciate any suggestions. Jim C.
__________________
1993 Geo Metro - 1.0, MT, A/C - 331K Miles
1992 Acura Integra - 1.8, AT, A/C - 262K Miles
1994 Ford Ranger - 4.0, MT, A/C - 109K Miles
On the other hand, it may be something as simple and inexpensive as the throw-out bearing.
Anyone would just be guessing until the clutch is actually pulled out.......
thanks