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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The sensor drives the ABS and cruise control. Your problem may be this sensor, or some other part of the ABS, as the other poster also said.

    You might should pay the money and have the ABS error code/s read. If the ABS light is flashing, I would think there should be some codes being set. Reading the ABS codes is not as simple as reading out the 'check engine codes'. I think this system even has a plug separate from the plug where you plug in to get the check engine codes.

    So, either take the vehicle to a good mechanic, one that knows how to work on ABS brake system (which is much more complicated than non-ABS), or throw parts at the problem, such as the sensor in the differential or the ABS control box......
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    it's not my ABS light flashing, it was the O/D light but it's not flashing anymore and my truck does not have cruise control my problems are in the transmission as i stated in my origonal post, not brake problems
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    several years ago i had a garage in indiana i was a first class mechanic and never shortcut anything, and had been working on vehicles for more than 30 years and i also rebuilt transmissions then i became disabled and lost track of the new computerized vehicles. so i am not entirly stupid about cars and trucks. with help from one of my neighbors with the heavy work i rebuilt the engine in mt 97 ranger. the head is from a 93 i had to seal up a water port under the intake but it works fine.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    i will try to explain the problem once again!
    with the O/D switch off i have forward gears and it shifts fine, but in reverse it will not move or slips badly--- with O/D switch on it will not move in drive or reverse i can pull the shift lever in 2nd it will move, it was an instant problem. the O/D light was flashing at one time but is not flashing at all now.! can any one tell me if the sensor on the drivers side of the transmission cause this problem? any help would be greatly apriciated!!!
  • cerichcerich Member Posts: 9
    I had the same on my 2000 B2500 Mazda(same truck) it kept pinging like you describe from ~80K to 128K when it was always pinging and then threw a CEL and shook like a wet dog, #3 cylinder was bad so new engine went in. It's been good now for 12K in 12 months, of course I also got a new vehicle at the same time so the B2500 doesn't get as many miles anymore (did another 26K on the new jeep and another couple on the wifes car on weekend getaways).

    That and a tranny solenoid are the only issues in 140k.

    BTW, I change oil and used synthetic 5-30 every 2500 miles since day one. I never expected a lower end problem! I figured it was the upper end at first....
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    i believe the first thing i would do is change the oil filter just to make sure you have good circulation before i go to extreams, there has been times i have had to change even new filters because they were defective.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    Where is the inertia switch (fuel pump shut off) on a '94 Ranger with a 3.0 liter V-6. The Ranger was in a collision and I believe this has been tripped so that the vehicle doesn't want to start. I heard it was under the kick panel on the passenger side so I pulled that off and haven't been able to find it. :confuse:
  • ballpeenballpeen Member Posts: 8
    I just scanned through all of the posts for the last year to find out about a pinging problem with my 3.0L. This site has answered a lot of questions, so I guess I should give something back. Anyway, I came across post 2285 (RE: Tranny Problems) that you might want to look at. I couldn’t find the original. Hope this helps.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    It's behind the upper edge of the carpet, on passenger side, but near the 'tunnel'. There should be a button to push to reset.
  • codek289codek289 Member Posts: 2
    I just started having the same problem. I know that the unlock feature is supposed to be disabled after the truck is off (anti-theft) but mine has quit unlocking the doors altogether at anytime. However the passenger side still works. Have you found a solution yet?
  • codek289codek289 Member Posts: 2
    My truck was doing that inconcsistently for some time. Eventually I found two vacuum leaks that were a result of hoses that the Dealership (Rusty Eck Ford, Wichita, KS) never hooked back up after warranty work. On was on the back of the left (Drivers) cylinder head on my 4.0 SOHC.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    i decided to buy a tech book on my trans. at least i know what the problem is now. my truck is a 2 wheel drive and the tss sensor is what is causing my problem the only bad part is this sensor is inside mounted to the center support drum to bad this isn't a 4X4 they are mounted outside the transfer case. anyway i do apriciate the few replies i did get. by the way this book shows all the sensors and location for differant transmission problems i didn't realize that almost every sensor in this truck is somehow connected to the trans. circuit until i got this book, with the exception of the abs sensor in the differental this book covers mid to late 90's 4R44E,4R55E yall have a great day
  • blaise77777blaise77777 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 94 ranger which i have had a clutch go in it. had a new clutch,slave cyclinder,pressure plate,and throw out bearing replaced....$800....... was told it's ready to go! picked it up...drove about a block and the throttle stuck.. i pulled over and shut it off. when i tried to restart it .it turned over but would not start. towed back to garage they got it started after about 3 hours(just started on it's own they don't know why or did anything to it)picked it back up drove about 5 miles with the throttle sticking(like cruise control) also when i went to shift engine tacked out and would gring the gears shifting.........stopped a store for coffee came out and would not start.........came back about 3 hours later started right up, but still the same problems with the throttle and the clutch......any help would be appreciated......... is this a mulitple problem or are they related? ps with the clutch in seems to be still in gear(on a hill can push the cluth to the floor,won't roll, take it out of gear , it rolls

    thanks in advance
    blaise77777
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Why are you asking for advice here?

    Didn't all these problems started when they did the clutch job? Apparent when you drove the truck away from the shop?

    Sound like they messed up the throttle cable linkage, the clutch (hydrolic) isn't bled correctly, and who knows why it won't start.

    Demand they tow your truck back to the shop and they fix all these problems.
  • blaise77777blaise77777 Member Posts: 2
    basically i'm here because the garage dosen't know what is wrong. i'm trying to get some info that might give them a clue. and no i just can't afford to take it to another garage. just looking for some suggestions from you pros
    blaise
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well it's THEIR problem...if the truck honestly ran and started well when it went in, then they can figure it out...you don't have to. Every garage has a bad day, and this is theirs. Certainly the clutch problems are theirs to fix at no charge, and probably the throttle--they probably bent or misaligned something. As for the no start, it's possible this is a co-incidence and you two might have to work that out.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    you might look at some of the harness wires going down to the under side of the truck it is possible they might have pinched a wire causing it to short out when they installed the clutch and if they did they might have seen it and got it free but still can cause a problem.
  • minoshiyaminoshiya Member Posts: 2
    The throttle sticking can be the problem of the no start. On most you can kill the ignition by opening the throttle. it cuts the signal to the coils when the throttle is all the way down before you start crank the engine.
  • hutch197530hutch197530 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Ford Ranger that after driving for 5 mins or so the volt guage on the dash go to a no charge condition as in it flutters back and forth and the head light and dash lights go dim when it stops charging. In thinking that the altenator was going south I installed a new one and had the same problem. Have been told that the plug going to the alternator, battery cables,ignition switch and brain box could all be going out. Engine temp makes no difference. If I shut off the truck and pull the key out it runs just fine after start up for about 5 mins
  • boilermaker1boilermaker1 Member Posts: 4
    I replaced the switch and it fixed the problem. :) The switch in the passenger door and the remote switch worked (lock and unlock both), that is what told me the driver door switch was bad. It was somewhat intermittant prior to failing completely. Seems to me, it would also lock, but not unlock. Switch had to be bought from Ford, so it was pricy. Replacing it was much easier than I originally thought. It is snapped in place, two plastic springs, one on each end. I carefully slipped a putty knife under one end, put pressure on the spring, pulled up a little, then with a straight screwdriver under the putty knife, pushed the spring in. The switch popped right out in less than 30 seconds. Un-connect the connector, attach new switch and snap into place. Whole process took less time than getting the screwdriver and putty knife from the basement. If you are sure it is the switch, I suggest you buy one first, that will give you an idea as to where to apply pressure against the springs to pop it off. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, you don't want to break the plastic.

    Good luck! ;)
  • joeg4joeg4 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ranger with a 4 liter engine, it is a standard engine, what is the horsepower rating?
  • critterzcritterz Member Posts: 7
    My bf added too much of incorrect atf to my truck. it had been running great except for when I reached about 60mph, o/d shuts itself off and o/d flashes. when I slow down after this, it shifts very hard. I drained atf, replace filter, etc but still having same issue. Think maybe it is the speed sensor? Any ideas? Also need location of sensor that is causing this...THANKS BUNCHES!
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    you might try putting in a new speed sensor depending on where you get one, the price runs from $20 to about $30 i live in florida and i can get one at the dealer for $28 + tax
  • rydayryday Member Posts: 6
    i installed the fipk on my 02 ranger last friday and i have noticed a performance difference but i am having a little problem.

    i'm hearing a screeching noise as i'm driving when the gas pedal is in a certain position. (i know, weird) everything sounds normal when the pedal is before that certain spot or after it and i cant get it to make the noise when not driving and sitting in the driveway when i could actually look for the source.

    anyone else have this issue or an idea of what i could look for? its really driving me nuts. :cry:
  • txrottietxrottie Member Posts: 5
    I had a similar problem but it involved fuse #10 blowing. My problem was the wire running down through the shifter lever into the column. It had been worn away by all the turning in there and the wire really isn't protected. Before you go buy a bunch of stuff try opening the column (not hard)and only if you have the overdrive button on the end. That little wire might be snapped and your just lucky it isn't shorting other stuff out like it was on mine (airbag light stayed on, fan blower and reverse lights didn't work etc...

    Good luck and please post if it helped at all!

    :shades:
  • txrottietxrottie Member Posts: 5
    errrr #2 10 amp fuse

    ;)
  • umbraumbra Member Posts: 1
    My 94 Ranger 3.0 standard shift is having starter trouble. I went to start it and it sounded like the starter stripped it's teeth. I pulled it, replaced it and checked the flywheel for missing teeth. It will start now, but starter just spins at times until I turn the crank a bit, then the starter catches. No missing teeth on starter or flywheel and battery checks out fine. Anyone have any ideas?
  • wb034985wb034985 Member Posts: 1
    Hello there hutch, I was experiencing the same problem with my ranger.You might want to replace the battery cables. This was my cure and even started better and little more power

    WB
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    sounds like a weak solenoid or connection
  • katherine43katherine43 Member Posts: 1
    :mad: Hi,I am wondering how you eliminate the internal engine noise at 2500rpm...
    Katherine.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    You replied to a message from Oct, 2002. Almost 4 years old. I doubt that person is still reading the forum......
  • rydayryday Member Posts: 6
    i noticed my problem is happening around 2500rpm as well. is yours a metal shrieking sound?

    (see my above post for the rest of this)
    I called the support number for k&n and was told that this horribly wrong noise was "normal". he said it was a normal intake noise that had been muffled by the stock intake.

    i think he's full of it so I think i'm going to try putting the stock intake tube in and see if maybe its just the k&n intake tube since its made of cheap plastic. though the plastic wouldn't really account for a metalic shrieking noise.
  • critterzcritterz Member Posts: 7
    No, I don't have any sounds at all, just a heavy shifting when the o/d goes off. I have found the issue with this though, it is the cable shift adjustment next to the tranny pan because when I hold up on the gear shift, the issue does not occur even up to 75 mph...
    Sandi
  • fishracing3fishracing3 Member Posts: 1
    Hey i have a 97 ranger with manual locking 4x4 hubs and when i turn on the 4wheel drive and lock the hubs, i get some big problems when turning. straight driving is fine but when i turn it sounds like a big crunching sound from the front wheels. almost sounds like i snapped drive joint and sometimes locks up the brakes or stops the wheel from turning. Have any ideas to what this is???? Need more info please ask me specifics. Thanks alot
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    The truck stops fine (most of the time)on occassion and its becoming more frequent just prior to a complete stop the pedal goes down with a mushy almost vibrating feeling and I keep rolling ahead 2-3 feet.
    I had a new M/cylinder and ABS Module installed yesterday and a major brake job 2 mos ago. The brake booster is good and there are no vacuum leaks or fluid leaks.
    I twice mentioned air in the lines, this was dismissed by the mechanic as he said that has been done.
    A scan shows everything ok.

    Help please...
    Thks for your advice.

    Dave
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    sounds like you have a bearing problem in one of the front axels the best way to check it is lift the front end and see if the wheel has play in it by moving it up and down or side to side, hope this helps
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    it does sound like air in the lines,and the vibration might be a high spot on the rotors. it might be a good idea to have a second opinion just to be safe
  • slysguyslysguy Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 90 ranger 4 cyl. I've had it serviced (LOF), Xmission and a tune up. The mechanic scanned the engine and found no problems. Intermittently it has low power, and a strong sulphur smell. Oh yeh I've had the cat converter checked and it's OK
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Have you driven any other 4 cylinder Rangers of about this age (because I think the newer 4 cyl have considerable more horsepower)???

    I've only drive 1 4 cyl Ranger, about a 1993, and it was slow and underpowered.
  • slysguyslysguy Member Posts: 2
    I understand that a 4 cyl Ranger is underpowered, but I mean it is seriously under powered intermittently because there is an intermittent problem. I'm asking if anyone has a suggestion and/or experienced this.
  • shiftoloshiftolo Member Posts: 2
    I noticed my the theft light on my ranger started to flash rapidly when the car was running, it has become increasingly difficult to start at times, yesterday after I parked it for about 2 hrs. it would not start, I checked to see if it had fuel pressure and it did, I checked to see if there was spark to the spark plug but there was none. When I turned the key on the theft light flashed was flashing rapidly and the vehicle would not start. I replaced the coil but it made no difference. I disconnected the battery and re connected it, that did not help either. The battery had plenty of power to turn the engine over but there was no fire to the plugs, I finally had the vehicle towed after a couple of hrs. of trying. I also noticed that my power door locks were not operating properly recently. Today I went out to see if I could try something else that might fix the problem, but I wanted to make sure the vehicle was still not working, when I turned the key the vehicle started and ran just fine, there was no flashing theft light and it started the first time. Is there anyone who has experienced this problem? If so did you find a solution, is there any way to disable the theft system to prevent this from happening again? Thanks
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    you might check the rest of the exaust i had a problem with one some years ago the pipe was colapsed inside, put your hand over the exaust in the back of the truck and make sure there is a lot of pressure comming out. also you might want to check the PCV valve that can also cause a lot of crankcase pressure buildup if it is bad
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    have you had this problem before? if so you might try checking the temperature sensor it can cause a lot of problems. hope this helps!
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    Check your relays in the engine compartment. Sounds like the relays or a connection to the relay box.
  • bilvihurbilvihur Member Posts: 1
    The dash warning lights came on in my '94 Ranger 5-spd. Has no effect on braking, the reservoir is full, no burned-out bulbs, and the parking brake switch feels normal. What other events cause the warning lights to stay on? Thanks. :confuse:
  • jimbob510jimbob510 Member Posts: 4
    Very boring, I know, but in need of help. Similar to #1178, wet floor board on driverside. 2 visits to the dealer & $800 later, still wet (not as bad). Any ideas? :confuse: Best place to take the truck for diagnosis-as dealer is dumb & blind. :mad:
    Don't want to sell it , but don't want to live with it either.
    Thanks-Jim
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    have you had the heater core checked or replaced? also you might take the metal panel under the wiper arms off and look for pluged drain holes, if it's a plastic panel it could be cracked and that could cause the problem.
    hope this helps!
  • wallratwallrat Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger; 101+k miles. Last week while driving down the road, I felt a severe banging and jerking under the vehicle, so I had it towed. The mechanic installed a new power steering pump and some seals. I still get some funny noise and pulsing (similar to the original experience, but less severe), predominately from the front right side of the vehicle. It happens seemingly randomly; comes and goes. The brake peddle pulses if I press on it while this is occuring. If this behavior is not occuring, then the braking is fine.
  • keneke57keneke57 Member Posts: 2
    I’m in desperate need of some repair advice on my 1994 Ford Ranger (4 cyl, 5 speed manual transmission, 160,000 miles on it). I was on the freeway driving to work (about 65 mph) and the truck just died. I’d suspected I was going to need to have some transmission work done in the near future, but was caught off guard when it just coasted to a stop on the shoulder.

    I had it towed to a Ford dealer that told me it was going to cost around $600 just to diagnose the problem. I asked how that could be possible and was told that due to the age of the truck it was going to be more difficult to diagnose than what a newer model would be. Obviously, the truck is not worth much more than $600 in running condition (blue book value), but considering that I can’t really afford a new vehicle right now, I don’t see where I have much choice but to try to have it fixed.

    Can someone tell me if the dealer is even close to being reasonable in quoting $600 to diagnose the problem? This just seems outrageous to me. Thanks for any insight or help anyone can offer.

    Pat
    Houston, Texas
  • cpurviscpurvis Member Posts: 2
    are you trying to drive on dry on dry ground
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