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Comments
You might should pay the money and have the ABS error code/s read. If the ABS light is flashing, I would think there should be some codes being set. Reading the ABS codes is not as simple as reading out the 'check engine codes'. I think this system even has a plug separate from the plug where you plug in to get the check engine codes.
So, either take the vehicle to a good mechanic, one that knows how to work on ABS brake system (which is much more complicated than non-ABS), or throw parts at the problem, such as the sensor in the differential or the ABS control box......
with the O/D switch off i have forward gears and it shifts fine, but in reverse it will not move or slips badly--- with O/D switch on it will not move in drive or reverse i can pull the shift lever in 2nd it will move, it was an instant problem. the O/D light was flashing at one time but is not flashing at all now.! can any one tell me if the sensor on the drivers side of the transmission cause this problem? any help would be greatly apriciated!!!
That and a tranny solenoid are the only issues in 140k.
BTW, I change oil and used synthetic 5-30 every 2500 miles since day one. I never expected a lower end problem! I figured it was the upper end at first....
thanks in advance
blaise77777
Didn't all these problems started when they did the clutch job? Apparent when you drove the truck away from the shop?
Sound like they messed up the throttle cable linkage, the clutch (hydrolic) isn't bled correctly, and who knows why it won't start.
Demand they tow your truck back to the shop and they fix all these problems.
blaise
Good luck!
i'm hearing a screeching noise as i'm driving when the gas pedal is in a certain position. (i know, weird) everything sounds normal when the pedal is before that certain spot or after it and i cant get it to make the noise when not driving and sitting in the driveway when i could actually look for the source.
anyone else have this issue or an idea of what i could look for? its really driving me nuts.
Good luck and please post if it helped at all!
:shades:
WB
Katherine.
(see my above post for the rest of this)
I called the support number for k&n and was told that this horribly wrong noise was "normal". he said it was a normal intake noise that had been muffled by the stock intake.
i think he's full of it so I think i'm going to try putting the stock intake tube in and see if maybe its just the k&n intake tube since its made of cheap plastic. though the plastic wouldn't really account for a metalic shrieking noise.
Sandi
I had a new M/cylinder and ABS Module installed yesterday and a major brake job 2 mos ago. The brake booster is good and there are no vacuum leaks or fluid leaks.
I twice mentioned air in the lines, this was dismissed by the mechanic as he said that has been done.
A scan shows everything ok.
Help please...
Thks for your advice.
Dave
I've only drive 1 4 cyl Ranger, about a 1993, and it was slow and underpowered.
Don't want to sell it , but don't want to live with it either.
Thanks-Jim
hope this helps!
I had it towed to a Ford dealer that told me it was going to cost around $600 just to diagnose the problem. I asked how that could be possible and was told that due to the age of the truck it was going to be more difficult to diagnose than what a newer model would be. Obviously, the truck is not worth much more than $600 in running condition (blue book value), but considering that I can’t really afford a new vehicle right now, I don’t see where I have much choice but to try to have it fixed.
Can someone tell me if the dealer is even close to being reasonable in quoting $600 to diagnose the problem? This just seems outrageous to me. Thanks for any insight or help anyone can offer.
Pat
Houston, Texas