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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bestpibestpi Member Posts: 5
    try checking if your battery is too tall i had this problem with a tall battery and when i went to a short one it closed all the way
  • wjw7wjw7 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem on a 93. I replaced the positive battery cable and it started fine.The old cable was clean and looked good, but it was the problem.
  • silverrdo01silverrdo01 Member Posts: 1
    I am working on Title Transmission which came off a 1994 Ranger XLT. This is not the first Standard Transmission I have disassembled but it is the first transmission I can not find an exploded view of the internal parts. I have most of it disassembled but I can not find how to remove the Input Shaft or remove the components off the Output Shaft. I there anywhere I can go to get an exploded view?? None of the motor manuals I have seen have one. Need some help here.
  • frohrsfrohrs Member Posts: 17
    I have a 95 Ranger 2 WD 2300 that has the original clutch. Sadly to say it's going out. I'm going to pick up a new pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutch disk and inspect the flywheel to see if it needs resurfaced! Anyone know how hard this tranny is to pull out and do the replacement?? I also have the clutch alignment tool.

    Thanks for any feed back.

    frohrs
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I understand bleeding the hydrolic clutch is a pain.

    I think you should also replace the hydrolic slave cylinder while you are in there.
  • udayasooriyanudayasooriyan Member Posts: 2
    Yesterday I had to put a new timing belt on my Ranger because it was not running right.

    It is a 1999 Ranger ( 4CYL ) with 85,000 miles on it I would like to know what ALL I have to do with it to bring it up to TIP TOP SHARP? Today I am putting Plugs and Wires on it along with a new fuel filter.

    I need all the help that you can gave me to have it like a NEW FORD RANGER.

    When I mean everything that is right from the biggest thing down to the smallest thing that needs to be done .

    I would like to know also who makes the VERY BEST AIR CLEANER?

    Does the TORNADO really work? You hear all about it how you get 1 to 2 gallons per mile with it.
  • udayasooriyanudayasooriyan Member Posts: 2
    I took my 1999 Ford Ranger (4 CYL.) into FORD the other day for it did not run right, the timing belt was bad and they changed the Plugs and wires on it.

    It still is not running right, so they are changed the Air Sensor. They believe that my K & N Air Filter left a piece of dirt into the Air Sensor and caused it to go bad.

    They believe that the New Air Sensor will make it run like a New Engine once again.

    Has anyone had this problem?

    Could it be because it was in a accident before I brought it, that is all I know about it. But I found out that it had a Stainless Steel Exhaust system on it when it was NEW. But when I got it no longer had it on. So could the dirt got into the Air Sensor than and when I brought it 4 years ago? I never noticed it run bad until this Winter. Yes it has 85,000 miles on it.

    My question is : The K & N Air Filter a bad filter?

    Ford thinks they are, and feels that the K & N Filter was the cause of the Air Sensor to go bad. They feel that the paper filter is the best, and that it would not have let the dirt go through it, and caused the Air Sensor to go bad.

    __________________
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    K&N is not a bad filter. It's just that many think that some oil is good and more oil is better when oiling it after a cleaning. Most of the problems are cause by excess oil.

    That said I've removed the K&N filters out of all my vehicles as they have shown no sign of improving over stock.
  • tig3tig3 Member Posts: 1
    K&N is a fussier filter. I used to run them on carburetter engines. It's more likely that the sensor was contaminated with K&N oil. That causes it to give a false reading. I read that aerosol solvents can be used to attempt to correct this. I think liquid ether (quick start) was suggested. Be careful with ether, it's highly flammable and not particularly good for the piston rings if over used. IMO
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Use Ford factory replacement parts as much as possible, wires, plugs (it has wires), air and oil filters. All after market parts are substandard from a factory specs perspective and long term, will not outperform the factory parts. But other than a good fuel rail flush, that's all you should need to do.
  • sb11469sb11469 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Ford Ranger which starts and runs fine..but will not turn off? Once the engine is started, turning the key back toward the off position, will not dis-engage the ignition. I replaced the key and ignition core, but that did not change the situation. Could there be a problem with the device that locks the steering wheel when the ignition is off and the key is removed ? I can only get the engine to stop when I dis connect the battery and pull the fuse for the ignition.
  • bhuckerbhucker Member Posts: 1
    I just bought an '89 Ranger to replace an '83 Ranger, which I need to retire because it won't pass the CA smog test. The '89 has a weird gas gauge. It goes to 5/8 full when you start the engine, which might be right, but then quickly fades toward the F, as if gravity is pulling the needle down. The seller said the gauge works when you get down toward 3/8 full, which might be a different variation of my "gravity" observation. The battery charge gauge reads on the negative side all the time, and the windshield washer, although full, doesn't work.

    What, if anything, do you think I could pull out of the '83 truck and put it the '89 to make it this dashboard stuff work better?

    (I already swapped seats; bed liner and slider rear window are coming up. :) )
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    did you replace the ignition switch itself? it's located under the dash on top of the steering colum
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    my bad i was thing of GM, the switch is located inside the cover on the colum just below the steering wheel there are 2 bolts that hold it on they are torque that require the type bit that has a hole in it
  • frohrsfrohrs Member Posts: 17
    This is a great post. This just happened to my 95 Ranger the other day. I replaced the cylinder lock with a new cylinder lock & key but it still won't shut the ignition off. I replaced it because the old ignition core (cylinder) was broke and allowed the key to be turned all the way around but when lucky if caught just right it would shut the truck off!

    There is a wire harness with four wires, one wire is connected to the ignition core (via a metal clip) I am told that this wire is for the chimes when you turn the ignition on? The other three are connected to a plastic ring behind the steering wheel which I believe is for the air bag. The harness is still avaiable from Ford for $133.00 bucks. I have the part #.

    Could it be the device that locks the steering wheel?? Please help I too have to disconnect the battery and am getting very tired of it. I want my truck back :)

    Thanks for any help.
    frohrs1
  • frohrsfrohrs Member Posts: 17
    Check out my other post. Could that switch be stuck on not allowing the ignition to turn off when the key is in the off position?

    I too have put a new cylinder lock and key in my 95 Ranger but it won't shut off.

    Please help!

    Thanks
    frohrs
  • astroedastroed Member Posts: 2
    My 94 ford ranger xlt 3.0 2wd 5spd makes a loud click in the fender mounted relay when trying to start engine. batt is good cables tight and clean. does not engage starter at all, just the relay on the fender clicks, is the relay supposed to be grounded to the fender? as the mounting screws are loose. the batt cable is tight at the starter solenoid.With the headlights on when I put the key in the start position and hold it on start it does not dim the lights,
    any ideas as to my problem?
    Help will sure be welcome and appreciated!
    Thx, Bob in NC
  • frohrsfrohrs Member Posts: 17
    I would say the realy needs to be grounded to the inner fender..Yes! Make sure you have a good clean aera to ground to. You might want to consider replacing the relay if the above doesn't work.

    Good Luck.
  • frohrsfrohrs Member Posts: 17
  • frohrsfrohrs Member Posts: 17
    1995 Ford Ranger 2.3. Replaced cylinder lock but iginition doesn't turn off when key is in off position.

    Please help tired of disconnecting the battery:)
  • plasticman36plasticman36 Member Posts: 2
    well i got the truck about 5 month's ago, at first the break's started to lock up every once in awhile then their was a noise that started coming from the left front tire.it sounded like something was stuck in my tire like a swishing sound.so i replaced the breaks,outer bearings,calipers rotors were in good shape.well it helped for about 3 days then all started again but now my abs light is on and my tire shakes a little bit and when i put my truck in 4 wheel drive you can here a bad noise coming from that tire but 4 wheel drive works.can someone please help me out!!
  • traci1962traci1962 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Ranger XLT 2.3, 2wd, manual trans. that threw a code that shows its the IMRC stuck open. I have called 2-3 dealerships and everyone sounds very surprised that this has happened, so surprised that even the dealerships have to order the part in to replace it. Does anybody else have experience with the IMRC? Chilton and Hayes Manuals are useless on this topic, and dont even have a picture to go by. Any suggestions?

    Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I don't have a clue, but google 'ranger imrc' and you will get several links. With some reading, you should have a better idea about what this pertains to.
    Seems like you have 2 sets of intake runners to each cylinder, controled by some kind of valve. And this valve is not opening correctly.
  • tomtom65tomtom65 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 ford ranger 4 cyl. 2.30 eng. I tried to have it smogged today and it failed the fuel evap test. I understand this has to do with a leak in the fuel system from the tank to the fuel pump. Leaking fumes. If some one can let me know a good place to start. should I replace the fuel fill hose or ck the vac. hose from the tank to the fuel pump? would be happy with any help thanx
  • kuberr4kuberr4 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 92 ford ranger 4x4 2.3L 5 spd, i hear a whining noise at certain speeds and i believe it has something to do with the front wheels, the hub lockouts are not working properly, could this cause the noise?
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    98 Ranger XLT 4.0 2X4, 198,000 miles. The engine misfires consistently at idle and under load. On the freeway, it surges back and forth. There is no colored smoke, or indication of mechanical noises or problems, just bad misfire as if from an ignition system problem. It even still continues to get respectable fuel economy, despite the loss in power.

    I had similar symtoms about 6 months ago (the engine had been misfiring for a while when I finally took care of it; it's my friend's ride), replaced the plugs with Autolite "double platinum" and new Motorcraft O.E. ignition wires. After replacing the plugs and wires and reconnecting the battery (clearing the CEL), it ran great for a few months, without any hint of misfiring. Good as new, I thought...

    Recently, the misfiring started again as bad (or worse) than ever. I've checked the wires to make sure all was well-seated.

    I have codes from the OBDII reader at Auto Zone:

    P0304
    P0171
    P0174

    The codes seem to tell a story of "something's wrong in the EFI/Fuel System, but I don't know what."

    Before I start on an endless quest of replacing every component in the system starting with O2 sensors, does anyone have experience with these same problems, and the likely fixes?

    This truck looks like crap but has been very reliable despite the abuse of continuing to run it while misfiring, and I'd like to eliminate the misfiring once and for all to make sure it continues to be reliable (and fuel efficient).

    Thank you for sharing.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    How's your oil consumption? At that mileage, my engine started fouling plugs in some cylinders with oil. All I could do is keep changing the plugs in those particular cylinders. It still passed emissions, BTW.
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Not much oil consumption, just changes. Lots of little grungy leaking everywhere. No fouling of the plugs; they look good.

    It needs a CA smog inspection, and I doubt it will pass like this.

    I'm guessing it's time to replace O2 sensors. But I wonder if it's common that the electronic module that acts as a distributor cap goes bad, causing misfiring.

    Is it common to use trial and error replacing these expensive parts?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Trial and error is always the method for repair, unless you get the computer to throw you a code directing you. With an engine this old, trial and error is bound to happen to you, but darn near everything on it is old, so replacement of anything is not such a terrible idea.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    you need to give a little more info. on this truck such as what year is it, and what size engine does it have. is it 2 or 4 wheel drive?
  • la4meadla4mead Member Posts: 347
    Sorry, there was a full description at the beginning of the thread.

    98 Ranger XLT 4.0, 2wd, 5 speed auto. 198,000 miles.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    i had a 97 with a 4cyl. 2.3 engine with one plug misfiring when i put a code reader on it the code wasn't even in my book, but it turned out to be my crank sensor. you might want to check your plug wires as well if you havn't already done so. before you replace the parts. check the compression to make sure it is good on the misfiring cylinder. i used to be a certified mechanic back in 1975 but didn't keep my certification so i am not up to date on a lot of these computerized vehicles but i do know some things about them. hope this info helps.
  • mountainman5mountainman5 Member Posts: 6
    I have almost 100,000 miles on the truck, does it require belt or chain replacement now or not??
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Most Ford engines have chains, and this one is one of them. You have no need to worry about it, it just goes on for miles and miles.
  • mountainman5mountainman5 Member Posts: 6
    I guess I'm a member of the "Chain Gang" then!!!
  • 48inchvertic148inchvertic1 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you, wookie1. I replaced the speed sensor at the rear diff, but the same symptoms still exist (original message #2444). When I had the sensor out, however, I noticed a greyish looking grease on it and all around the rear axle (internal). I saw no sign of 'fluid'. The manual recommends replacing the rear axle lubricant at 100k. I currently have 94k, but this problem began several years ago and has really not gotten any worse, but no better either. Could this be a rear axle 'fluid' issue associated with the speed sensor with any luck? FYI - I have also verified proper transmission fluid level and changed out the ouput shaft speed sensor, both to no avail.
  • ronz1ronz1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 Ranger XLT 2wd - new problem: sometimes I can't turn the key in the ignition - it's stuck until you jiggle the steering wheel. I don't want to wait until it gets permanently stuck off and needs to be drilled--- So, is there any alternative to taking it to a Ford Dealer to get the lock cylinder replaced ? I also don''t want to end up with 2 different keys - one for the ignition and one for the doors. This seems to be a Ford problem-same thing happend on my Villager and the dealer wanted $400 to fix it. Any ideas ?
  • jre56jre56 Member Posts: 7
    Where is the cabin filter located in a 2004 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 extended cab and how diffilcult is it to change?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The what?? It's impossible to change - doesn't have one.
  • knotnoahknotnoah Member Posts: 1
    Hello to all. New member today. I have an '04 2.3L Ranger. Basic model, 4 wheels and a seat! No a/c. 58K miles. Battery light came on. Indicator spot on battery showed red. Replaced battery. Had alt checked at Checkers, they said it was ok. Battery light on dashboard is still on. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help.
  • bigcat52bigcat52 Member Posts: 1
    What type of transmission fluid do i use in my 2004 ford ranger also is there a cabin air filter and where is it located?? thanks b.m.w.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Bad alternator, not charging the battery, which killed the first battery???

    Should have checked this first, a bad battery usually does not turn the 'red light' on. This indicates the battery is not receiving a charge, not that it is bad.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    -If you have the owner's manual, it will tell you. Off the top of my head, I don't know. There are several variations of tranny fluid, I would not guess about this. Find an owner's manual, or go to a shop with books that have this info. You don't want to put the wrong fluid in a tranny.

    -No cabin filter on a Ranger, any year.
  • redbusredbus Member Posts: 4
    I suggest using synthetics through out your truck. Amsoil makes synthetics and excellent filters. Synthetics will reduce your fuel use and extend your drain intervals. Ranger does not have a cabin air filter. Maybe the new Ranger will have one.
  • ozzie3ozzie3 Member Posts: 1
    I lent my 1998 ford ranger 4x4 to a friend who sunk my truck in the river it was completely submerged for about an hour. we let it sit for 2 weeks or so to dry out before we attempted to start it. I drained the power steering fluid, oil and gas. it now starts okay but when i put any load on the engine it seems to bog right down and has no power. It is a 5 spd manual and i'm hearing what sounds like the flywheel or a throw-out bearing noise as soon as I start it. the odometer is not working neither is the speedometer. also when i put it into 4wh drive the indicator light on the dash fails to illuminate and the 4wheel drive does not engage, all the other indicator lights on the dash work. Any suggestions on where to sart with any of these issues. thanks oz
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    It's a tribute to
    Ford that the truck starts at all, but sadly, I think you're fighting a losing battle. The problems with this truck will be endless, and probably culminate in engine failure, and likely rear end and transmission failure as well. The electrical gremlins will never end. I'd trade it in on something else as soon as possible if it were me.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Offhandly, what you missed:

    -Rear differential.
    -Front differential.
    -Transmission.
    -Brake fluid.
    -Front bearings.
    -All electronics.

    I too am amazed it started at all, or even moved.

    You might have one hope. Buy a similar wrecked truck, and start transferring things. Electronics for sure. I would think that in 2 weeks, the areas that you did not flush started to rust up big-time. And if you continue to have not opened up these things, the damage is daily getting worse. The differentials and transmission probably are gone. Remember, oil and all lub fluids are lighter than water and probably started coming out of these things. And they all have openings, even if only small vent holes. You got water into all of them.

    In a Cadillac forum, a guy documented bringing a 2000 Deville back to life after a flood. He bought a wreck. He did extensive flushes of the engine and transmission. Also all electronic modules had to be switched out or replaced. He pulled all the electric wiring and cleaned all connectors. Of course the Deville had much more than your truck. He worked all one winter on this. Even then, the car set multiple 'check engine light' codes that he had to work one by one.

    Have you learned not to loan your car? But, maybe, your friend is stepping up and paying for the damage?
  • soonerscarlsoonerscarl Member Posts: 1
    My 1996 Ranger's serpentine fan belt fainally busted after 120K miles. The instructioners describe using an open end wrench to release teh automatic belt tensioner.

    Can anybody walk me through this?
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    there should be a diagram on the fan shroud that shows the correct position for your belt as far as the tentioner an open end wrench is not the best thing to use either a boxed end wrench or a breaker bar with a socket is safer
    best of luck!
  • jherrjherr Member Posts: 4
    I have a 92 Ranger 4 cylinder 2.3L. My turn signals stopped working. I checked the fuse and all the bulbs. The horn, the headlights, highbeams, hazards, radio all work. Is there a relay I need to know about? Any Ideas? I checked the inertia switch as well as the fuses in the motor near the battery.
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