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Well, I also took the EGR valve off and sprayed throttle body cleaner in it. I sprayed it in the top port and it wouldn't run out. I think this means that the valve is sticking right? Any way I told Advanced Auto to get me another one and it should be here in the morning. I cleaned the EGR valve the best I could. Then I cleaned the tube that goes to the throttle body from the EGR valve. After that I cleaned the MAF sensor with some cleaner and took the air cleaner out and shook it out. It seemed to run better after this. I also cleaned the IAC too. I'm thinking about taking the whole EGR tube off and everything and cleaning it again. Also, probably going to hit the throttle body again. I have this feeling like I loosened stuff up and it sucked it up through the system and plugged other areas.
I went and got the OBD check at Advanced Auto and got these codes P1443 Emissions Control and P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire. So I think this tells me it could still be the same problem with the EGR? It could be the catalytic converter maybe. I can't crossreference the P1443 code, but I've seen the P0303 code before. Any other thoughts?
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
It squeals something awful (and gets difficult to steer) when the fluid level :surprise: gets the slightest bit low.
You will probably have to borrow, from the parts house, a 'special tool' to get that PS pump off. The pump shaft goes thru a bracked and the pulley is outside the bracket. You will have to have a 'puller' to pull the pulley off. The same tool has stuff the 'push' the pulley back on the new PS pump, using a threaded hole down the shaft.
Other that that, it's pretty simple. But be careful you don't get your tools on the fluid supply tank or you will break it's seal.
This motor has a strange thing that happens, it happened on my 94 with much less miles, probably at about 50,000 miles.
The bolts on the intake manifold loosen up. This lets air directly into the cylinder charge, the O2 sensor reads a lean mixture, so the computer jacks more fuel into the next charge to counter the lean mixture. This causes your terrible milage.
What also happened with mine, the loose intake pulls oil into the intake, and burns it. My 'low oil indicater' came on, and sure enough, I was low a quart. The truck had NEVER used a quart between changes.
It takes a 8 or 9mm socket and you will need a flex entension to get to all of the bolts. Just start in the center on the intake and alternate side to side and to both ends. I don't remember the torque, but it isn't much, probably about 35 pound. I think you will find several bolts that are loose. Probably one near cylinder 3, causing the error messages you see.
After I did this, my truck returned to previous oil and fuel usage. It did not leak coolant or oil around the intake when the bolts were loose.
The problem is I have a check engine light on. The engine is running rough cutting out at idle on low revs, I put my OBD11 on it and the code is P0300 multiple cylinder Misfire what will cause this please?
Thanks
Paul
Larry
And how much does it cost? And what all does it show?
I hope that this helps.
Please help
How many mile are on the truck? Have you done a compression test? What were the results?
I need to take the door apart and repair the window and handle. How do you go about doing this? Can someone help me with this or point me in the right direction?
Thanks!!
No hot air from heater. Air is ducted to correct places as different functions are selected. I flushed/back flushed the heater core. Saw no trash come out. Water pump and thermostat were replaced last year. Had heat last winter. What to do now?
There is an actuator devise behind the glove box that appears to control something in the air duct. It does not function when I select all modes on the AC/heater control panel. What does it control?
The actuator devise puts the air flow in recirculate mode when Max Air is sellected. I had tried that but probably didn't leave it selected long enough for the actuator to wake up and move.
We drove it home (8 hours) with no problems. Went the next day to have it inspected and they failed it due to the brakes. The years of Iowa road salt had really corroded the brake system, so I did the following:
Had both front rotors turned, installed new front pads, installed new front calipers, had one rear drum turned, replaced other rear drum, installed new rear shoes with all new rear brake hardware including parking brake adjuster kit and new wheel cylinders on both sides, installed new solid brake lines on rear and finally a new master cylinder.
The problem is that no matter how much I bleed the system, I still get a soft pedal. I can pump the pedal up some with the engine off but as soon as I start it up, the pedal goes to the floor. I can pump the pedal up just a little with the engine running.
What could the problem be? Am I doing something wrong when bleeding the system? I’ve read that they should be bled in the following order:
Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front
I’ve also read that a Ranger of that year should be bled in the following order:
Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front
I’ve tried both, but got no different results. What is the proper bleed sequence for this truck? Any ideas?
You must have the special diagnostic box to plug into the brake ABS system. What it does, I think, is activate the ABS pump, which will pump the air out and new fluid in.
You need to take it to brake shop that has this equipment.
i've had 40+ years of working on vehicles!. after fixing it, if you have worked on cars if only in your back yard, keep one thing in mind it will help!, "never overlook the obvious"
hope this helps.
Thanks.
Aren't all vehicles' under the dash, near the steering column.