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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lmckibbenlmckibben Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same problem with my dad's Ranger. I have replaced the heads, new gskts, new coil, new plugs and wires, new injectors and checked voltage at injector harness, new computer, new cam position sensor and syncronizer, new crank sensor, have not found vacum leaks, new air cleaner and fuel filter. Pulled y-pipe and cat converter. Looked inside and blew air through them and they did not seem restricted, compression is over 152 psi on all cylinders, and valvetrain seemed to work fine when I watched it with the valve covers removed. I am exausted. I do not know what else to do. Did you ever identify the problem?
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    you might check the coil pack, one of my friends had the same problem he had a bad coil pack. hope this helps
  • bc2005rlbc2005rl Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD V6 3.0 extended cab with 92000 miles on it. The other day my ABS, O/D, and check engine light came on, and my speedometer and odometer stopped working. In addition, the transmission would take a long time to shift out of first. But, when it did shift, it was very hard. So I log onto the internet and researched the issue. All of the information that I saw pointed to the ABS Speed Sensor that mounts on the top of the rear differential. I replaced the sensor and all of the light went out. I thought I was in business, but all was not well. Since replacing the sensor, the odometer started working, but the speedometer is not working and the transmission is still shifting hard from 1st to 2nd, if it shifts at all. Can someone help?
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    edited August 2010
    I have a '95 Ford Ranger STX 4.0 V6 5-speed standard. It has been stumbling and running real rough lately. It has approximately 325,000 miles on it and shows 317,000 miles. The odometer has also stuck lately. It had a check engine light on for quite a while. When I had it checked for codes it said there was a problem with the EGR and two cylinders misfiring. Well, I replaced the EGR valve, EGR pressure sensor, and the EGR solenoid. I took the EGR tube off and soaked the inside with PB Blaster overnight. I also took a small screwdriver and cleaned inside where the EGR tube connects to the manifold. I also cleaned the rubber hoses that connect the EGR pressure sensor to the EGR tube. There are some hard plastic hoses that connect the EGR solenoid, but I don't think anything is wrong with these and don't know what to do to clean them anyhow. The check engine light is off now and the truck runs a lot better, but has been stumbling at take off and it is eating gas like crazy. Piss poor mileage. I have cleaned the throttle body, replaced the throttle body position sensor, replaced the mass air flow sensor, new air filter, replaced fuel filter, and I don't think I have any vacuum leaks. The ABS light is on and I've been told that this might be the rear ABS sensor. The ones they have at Autozone, Advanced Auto, Napa, and Oreilly are remanufactured and don't work on my truck. They have a big black housing and mine has a thin metal connector. Also, the truck squeals at start and will chirp occasionally when it is running. I'm at a loss I need to figure this out before I go broke trying to keep fuel in this sucker. :confuse:
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    try running a new ground wire from the engine to the fire wall also start it up when it's dark look at the plug wires and coil to see if they are arking. the aqueel is probably a worn out belt sometimes a chirp is an idler pully.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    sorry my keyboard is starting to go bad had to log on to my other computer the (squeal) is probably the belt going bad.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    Run a ground wire from where on the engine to the firewall. From the starter maybe? I noticed this ground off the starter sits near the rear seal that has been leaking slightly. I put some stuff in to help the seals come back hope it works. I noticed the ground from the starter had some oil leaking on it slightly and cleaned it up.

    Well, I also took the EGR valve off and sprayed throttle body cleaner in it. I sprayed it in the top port and it wouldn't run out. I think this means that the valve is sticking right? Any way I told Advanced Auto to get me another one and it should be here in the morning. I cleaned the EGR valve the best I could. Then I cleaned the tube that goes to the throttle body from the EGR valve. After that I cleaned the MAF sensor with some cleaner and took the air cleaner out and shook it out. It seemed to run better after this. I also cleaned the IAC too. I'm thinking about taking the whole EGR tube off and everything and cleaning it again. Also, probably going to hit the throttle body again. I have this feeling like I loosened stuff up and it sucked it up through the system and plugged other areas.
  • redbusredbus Member Posts: 4
    Well you have a 15 year old truck with 325k on the running gear? Maybe it's time to get a new vehicle.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Member Posts: 36
    Well, true it doesn't owe me much that's for sure! It is nice not having a truck payment though. ;>) I'm still pretty partial to her too.

    I went and got the OBD check at Advanced Auto and got these codes P1443 Emissions Control and P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire. So I think this tells me it could still be the same problem with the EGR? It could be the catalytic converter maybe. I can't crossreference the P1443 code, but I've seen the P0303 code before. Any other thoughts?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    You may also want to get a compression check on cylinder 3 - that could be causing the emissions issues as well as the misfire code.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • bill294bill294 Member Posts: 1
    I've changed the rotor, cap, spark wires, ignition module, and coil. still not firing?
  • lmckibbenlmckibben Member Posts: 2
    Check the pick up inside the distributor. Also verify that you have 12 volts coming from the switch wire to the ignition. Good luck.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    try changing the pickup inside the distributor
  • burnselkburnselk Member Posts: 6
    How difficult is it to replace the Power Steering Pump on my 96 Ranger XLT 4 cylinder, side-step, 5 speed?

    It squeals something awful (and gets difficult to steer) when the fluid level :surprise: gets the slightest bit low.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    How difficult is it to replace the Power Steering Pump on my 96 Ranger XLT 4 cylinder

    You will probably have to borrow, from the parts house, a 'special tool' to get that PS pump off. The pump shaft goes thru a bracked and the pulley is outside the bracket. You will have to have a 'puller' to pull the pulley off. The same tool has stuff the 'push' the pulley back on the new PS pump, using a threaded hole down the shaft.

    Other that that, it's pretty simple. But be careful you don't get your tools on the fluid supply tank or you will break it's seal.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I think your 95 has the 'old style' 4L, same as my 94 had.

    This motor has a strange thing that happens, it happened on my 94 with much less miles, probably at about 50,000 miles.

    The bolts on the intake manifold loosen up. This lets air directly into the cylinder charge, the O2 sensor reads a lean mixture, so the computer jacks more fuel into the next charge to counter the lean mixture. This causes your terrible milage.

    What also happened with mine, the loose intake pulls oil into the intake, and burns it. My 'low oil indicater' came on, and sure enough, I was low a quart. The truck had NEVER used a quart between changes.

    It takes a 8 or 9mm socket and you will need a flex entension to get to all of the bolts. Just start in the center on the intake and alternate side to side and to both ends. I don't remember the torque, but it isn't much, probably about 35 pound. I think you will find several bolts that are loose. Probably one near cylinder 3, causing the error messages you see.

    After I did this, my truck returned to previous oil and fuel usage. It did not leak coolant or oil around the intake when the bolts were loose.
  • chofwichchofwich Member Posts: 1
    my 1995 ford ranger won't start about half the time i replaced the one of the coil packs about a two week ago and it seem to have fixed the problem but now it won't start again. can anyone help me
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    check your distributor cap for carbon tracks and wear, also check the rotor for excessive wear
  • littlechevylittlechevy Member Posts: 8
    I have a 93 Ranger, 4.0 liter. In one month I have replaced the mass air flow sensor twice. Any ideas?
  • mfaresmfares Member Posts: 3
    i have the same problem. my 2.3 liter ranger start jerking, misfire, when remove my foot of peddle will become worse. after running diagnose test, i replace the MAF, spark plugs, wiring. the truck is the same, i replace the MAF second time and nothing has changed, but when i unplug the MAF connection the engine sound little better and i can drive it for a few miles with some jerking, misfire and hesitating here and there. once i plug the MAF connection it seems like 10.0 earthquake shaking the engine.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Only thing I've heard about was aftermarket K&N filters that are oiled - some times the oil will contaminate the MAF.
  • lawrence1958lawrence1958 Member Posts: 4
    Hi i have a Ford ranger 3.0 litre v6 2 wheel drive xlt cab.
    The problem is I have a check engine light on. The engine is running rough cutting out at idle on low revs, I put my OBD11 on it and the code is P0300 multiple cylinder Misfire what will cause this please?

    Thanks

    Paul
  • littlechevylittlechevy Member Posts: 8
    On my 3.0 Ranger I had a cracked head. Have a chemical test done. Look for water in the oil. Check for bubbles in the radiator. A chemical test is best.
    Larry
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    the first thing i do is fill my tank add fuel injector cleaner and gas dryer, to remove any water from gas stations, also if your fuel filter hasn't been changed for a long time it might be a good idea to install a new one. you can take your truck to any autozone they can put their obd11 on it at no cost and they can print out possible causes of the problem. hope this helps!
  • burnselkburnselk Member Posts: 6
    How and where do you get a chemical test done?

    And how much does it cost? And what all does it show?
  • mfaresmfares Member Posts: 3
    so did you find the problem? did you repair your truck? i am so frustrated and don't know what to do? so far i paid over $400.00 for parts no need to be replaced, and nothing changed. i don't want to take it to the dealer so i can pay another $200.00 for another diagnose. of course the dealer will found probably over 50 things needed to be change to fix the problem and couple thousands dollar bill. help please.
  • littlechevylittlechevy Member Posts: 8
    Not yet. I am replacing the O2 sensor and will post the outcome.
  • for98for98 Member Posts: 1
    Hey,just following your post. Think i might be having the same problem with 98ford ranger 2wd regular cab. let me know what you find? thanks in advance
  • littlechevylittlechevy Member Posts: 8
    I went to a u-pull it yard. took a mass air flow meter from another Ranger and tried it. My scanner then said dirty mass air flow meter and right back O2 sensor. I used a mass air flow cleaner, let the meter dry over night. When I went to replace the O2 sensor I found it finger tight, replaced it and the light went out. So I would check for vacuum leaks and O2 sensors.
    I hope that this helps.
  • xadrenalinexadrenaline Member Posts: 1
    when driving say 55 mph and 2000 rpms steady my rpm's will drop to 500 and my whole truck starts shaking. If you try and push down on accelerator all the truck will do is shoot up to 4 and 5k rpm's and make a bunch of noise. it has lost alot of power and acceleration especially going up a big hill you will go from 70 to 30mph in no time
    Please help
  • littlechevylittlechevy Member Posts: 8
    Xadrenaline,
    How many mile are on the truck? Have you done a compression test? What were the results?
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    a torque converter can cause a bad shake and a broken internal snapring can cause a trans. clutch drum to bind up and maybe a loss of power. there are several things you can check. hope this helps some
  • pete491pete491 Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    My old (190,000) 89 Ranger is slowly falling apart but I still like it and intend to drive it until it nothing works anymore. The latest problem is that the driver’s side window will not roll up and down anymore and the driver's side door handle just stopped working. So, I have to exit the passenger’s side when I drive it causing endless abuse by family and friends.

    I need to take the door apart and repair the window and handle. How do you go about doing this? Can someone help me with this or point me in the right direction?

    Thanks!!
  • duckwing1duckwing1 Member Posts: 6
    1990 Ranger 2.3L

    No hot air from heater. Air is ducted to correct places as different functions are selected. I flushed/back flushed the heater core. Saw no trash come out. Water pump and thermostat were replaced last year. Had heat last winter. What to do now?

    There is an actuator devise behind the glove box that appears to control something in the air duct. It does not function when I select all modes on the AC/heater control panel. What does it control?
  • lacrossesoakedlacrossesoaked Member Posts: 87
    this may or may not apply to your problem but I had the same problem with a passenger vehicle. turned out the problem was a bad vaccuum hose which had a hole in it almost to the point of being severed. this hose controlled an actuator which opened the gate for the hot air to be blown into the passenger compartment. In my case, all it took was a VERY close visual inspection of all of the vacuum lines under the hood. good luck.
  • duckwing1duckwing1 Member Posts: 6
    The heater is now working fine - after I replaced the heater core. I was fooled since I had felt the bottom of the core and it was quite hot. Later I turned on the blower and the heater core went cold very quickly. Replacement was a pretty easy task and now I have heat.

    The actuator devise puts the air flow in recirculate mode when Max Air is sellected. I had tried that but probably didn't leave it selected long enough for the actuator to wake up and move.
  • duckwing1duckwing1 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the input. Fortunately, on this model Ranger the air flow is controlled mechanically. Vacuum leaks can be a tough thing to find some times.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    replace the thermostat
  • joshbhjoshbh Member Posts: 1
    I drive a 1984 Ford Ranger. When I try to start my car (or even hook the solenoid to the battery now) the starter will engage and then will proceed to stay on, even with the removal of the key. I installed a new solenoid and had the starter tested. The starter was testing at 98%. The solenoid was grounded to the engine block, which sits on rubber motor mounts but I have moved it to the chassis. The starter will still not disengage though. Anyone know anything about this problem?
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    your starter solenoid on the battery side of the fender well is shot replace it. that will take care of the problem.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    Go buy yourself a new Toyota Tacoma. Don't look back...
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    You replied to a 3+ year old post.
  • j_greerj_greer Member Posts: 1
    I don't know a whole lot about auto maintenance. I have a 2002 Ford ranger with a 2.3Ltre 4cyl and a 5-speed manual transmission. I was wondering if I would have to get a new tranmission in order to swap my engine qwith the 3.0Litre 6-cyl. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. -Jacob.
  • dhulldhull Member Posts: 1
    I inherited a 1997 Ford Ranger XL 2 Wheel-Drive at Christmas.

    We drove it home (8 hours) with no problems. Went the next day to have it inspected and they failed it due to the brakes. The years of Iowa road salt had really corroded the brake system, so I did the following:

    Had both front rotors turned, installed new front pads, installed new front calipers, had one rear drum turned, replaced other rear drum, installed new rear shoes with all new rear brake hardware including parking brake adjuster kit and new wheel cylinders on both sides, installed new solid brake lines on rear and finally a new master cylinder.

    The problem is that no matter how much I bleed the system, I still get a soft pedal. I can pump the pedal up some with the engine off but as soon as I start it up, the pedal goes to the floor. I can pump the pedal up just a little with the engine running.

    What could the problem be? Am I doing something wrong when bleeding the system? I’ve read that they should be bled in the following order:

    Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front

    I’ve also read that a Ranger of that year should be bled in the following order:

    Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear, Right Front

    I’ve tried both, but got no different results. What is the proper bleed sequence for this truck? Any ideas?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Your problem is you have air in the ABS pump. And you cannot bleed this out manually.

    You must have the special diagnostic box to plug into the brake ABS system. What it does, I think, is activate the ABS pump, which will pump the air out and new fluid in.

    You need to take it to brake shop that has this equipment.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    check your master cylinder for bleedby, the seals are probably worn letting fluid bleed past the plunger as soon as you start pushing the pedal down
    i've had 40+ years of working on vehicles!. after fixing it, if you have worked on cars if only in your back yard, keep one thing in mind it will help!, "never overlook the obvious"
    hope this helps.
  • dzwickdzwick Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1984 ford ranger with a 2.8 liter engine. It was turning over slowly so i pit a new battery in it. that fixed that problem. The carburater was spitting fuel when i went on a drive so i have to be towed home. In the process of being towed home every time i would hit the breaks this buzzer would be going off. now when i try to get my truck started now it wont turn over and the electrical in the whole truck is messed up. when i turn the key over the dome light goes dim. the lights were working fine and all of the gauges were working good also. After i got home all of this stuff quit working. Please help me. I have checked the main ground from the battery to the block and it is good. I even cleaned it. I just dont know to go from here please help me in a good direction thanks for reading.
  • g_friebergg_frieberg Member Posts: 28
    Can somebody tell me where the DLC is on my 2000 Ranger 4x4 ?
    Thanks.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Is this the main plug for 'check engine light', etc diagnostics?

    Aren't all vehicles' under the dash, near the steering column.
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