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Comments
Thanks,
Angelarae
i have replaced batteries that have checked ok but lack the cranking power to turn the engine over.
hope this helps!
But on mine, the intake loosened up. It started using a lot of oil all at once. It went from using less than a quart in a 4,000 mile chance cycle, to one morning turning on the 'Low Oil' light, and it was about 1 1/2 quart low. I read about the loose bolts, so I went over the intake tightening it down. Started in the center, then back and forth, toward both end. And several were loose, and all needed some tightening.
This solved my oil usage problem instantly.
It had 8 or 9mm bolt heads, and I used a 1/4 inch drive with a flex drive.
Just something you might check. On mine the loose intake allowed an oil passage have oil pulled into the intake. On yours, it might be allowing an air leak into the intake, making it run lean. Also look at all the rubber hoses. A leak in any one might make it run lean. Look also at the large rubber, or plastic hose the pulls air from the air filter into the intake. A leak here sure would make it run lean.
An electric fan will freewheel the same at cold or hot temps.
hope this helps
Doesn't it have an electric fan?
I've had the fluid and the filter changed here recently thinking that might be the problem. Someone has told me about a kick out switch might need to be changed. I've never heard of a kcik out switch on the transmission. And someone else has told me that the transmission needs to be rebuilt.
Just looking for some different input from folks to maybe give me a idea what could be wrong with it.
But second, you may have the right idea about the connectors. When a fuel pump does start to fail, many times it doesn't fail quickly, it draws a higher than normal amount of current (not enough to open its relay) and this excessive current does fry the connector on the top. And this failing connector does not pass current well, which loads the failing pump more, which causes more current flow, and the the pump fails. Sometimes the connector fails first.
The previous pump might have failed. And weakened the connector. The current problems might be coming from the connector. You would hope that had the connector failed, it would have been noticed while replacing, but maybe not, the damage might be inside the rubber covered area and not easily seen.
Not sure if you can get to the connector without dropping the tank, but might be worth a try to see if you can pull it off and inspect before dropping the tank again.
Checking the fuel pump is pretty easy. When you first turn the key to ON you should be able to hear the pump start up to pressurize the system. If you don't hear this, the pump isn't working. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel line on top of the motor and there are hose/valve test sets that attach here. These are two spec for most motors fuel pressure, a 'not running' (key to ON) and a 'running' pressure. Out of spec in either area will cause problems, not starting or performance problems. A decent mechanic should know all this and have the valve/hose and rather quickly know if a fuel pump is working ok.
You might have a bad connector which, because of bad current flow, caused the latest pump to also fail.
Anything to double check besides the pressure and lug nuts before calling them?