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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • fordman62fordman62 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 ranger XLT sport 2.5L 5 speed..at first the trans would let me put it in gear but wouldn't let me shift gears at all,now it won't let me do anything...it's like it's stuck in N...i've checked fluids and there fine.i don't have a clue..the clutch,throw out,and everything a brand new...need help please...
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    if the clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder are working ok then your pressure plate is weak and needs replaced.
  • fwbboy1967fwbboy1967 Member Posts: 1
    Trust me dude! There is nothing you can do to improve the mileage on that 4.0. I had the 4.0 in my 97 Mazda B4000 and in my 99 Ranger and I could do all types of things to improve horsepower and torque, but nothing for mileage. IT"S JUST A GAS HOG! Loved the truck, but hated the mileage, so I went to a full size with a V8 and got better mileage. :)
  • angelaraeangelarae Member Posts: 1
    Won't crank, just clicks. Battery, alternator, starter have been checked. Selanoid near battery and battery cable connectors have been replaced, but did not fix the problem. Will start intermittently, though laboring, or will start if pushed off and pop clutch. Will not start with a jump. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Angelarae
  • jdizzle22420jdizzle22420 Member Posts: 4
    Starter Selanoid is bad..trust me I had the same problem and did the same things u did..its the solenoid on the starter not near the battery
  • lacrossesoakedlacrossesoaked Member Posts: 87
    I had the same problem. Turned out to be bad contact between my battery cables and the battery terminals. I took the cables off, cleaned the inside of the connectors and cleaned the battery posts and that solved the problem. Easy enough to give it a try. Let me know if this works for you.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    you mentioned the battery had been checked, try putting a differant battery in it even though the battery checked good does not mean it has the power to crank it over. ford starters are normaly high torque
    i have replaced batteries that have checked ok but lack the cranking power to turn the engine over.
    hope this helps!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Or, the battery cables have corrision inside the insulation. Pull insulation back, squeeze the cables, etc. See if you have a solid cable inside.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I've got an 08 Ranger with 41K miles and had a vibration in the steering wheel when braking, usually means rotors are warped. I took it to my local independent shop that I've been using for years and trust their judgement. They said it needed new pads AND rotors, they couldn't just resurface the rotors as they would have then been too thin and out of specs. I understand the need for pads as 41K miles isn't unusual. But in all my life of driving, I've never needed new rotors so soon. I live in Florida so I'm really surprised they warped at all and can't think of a reason for that.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    i think if it were me i would have looked at the rotors, seems kinda strange they would ware out in only 3 years! and if new ones were installed i would look at them as well to make sure they were new and not turned. even though the shop is one that you have done business with for years there are some mechanics that will tell you one thing and do another. because of the econamy. i installed a new set of plugs in my own vehicle and had some work done on it by friends at a trusted shop when he got finished he tried to charge me for the new plugs that i installed myself, i went to the owner about the charge and told him i put them in myself. he discharged the mechanic.
  • rangeralrangeral Member Posts: 4
    After 4 or 5 seconds, my 2006 Ranger XLT 4x4 (52k miles) has the "clunk" driveline sound after startup, while still in park and in 2wd mode which seems strange. A slow take-off right away, forward or reverse, will emit the same loud clunk. Just bought it used and the dealer has already lubed the slip joint. Not sure of the purpose of a slip joint, but still the cause? I'm sure the dealer will not want to replace it, but it's still under the 60 day warranty. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Is it the ABS doing its self-check?
  • littlechevylittlechevy Member Posts: 8
    Check you torque converter bolts
  • rangeralrangeral Member Posts: 4
    Abs is fine. Not that. Definitely a drive line issue. Thanks for the reply.
  • rangeralrangeral Member Posts: 4
    Will do little chevy. Thanks.
  • gunnyfreewaygunnyfreeway Member Posts: 1
    I have a 85 Ranger 4x4 it will run for 5-10 miles then shut down but will restart after 45 seconds and run for 5-10 miles then do it all over again any ideas what it could be
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    change the gas filter it's clogging up. i had an 84 that done the exact same thing.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Looks to me like it's a very complicated Thermostat Housing.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    it's a thermostat bypass tube it is designed to allow anti-freeze or water to circulate while the engine warms up.
  • mbatzmbatz Member Posts: 1
    I had to slow down for an accident on the side of the highway; when I tried to accelerate, the engine revved up but the car did not accelerate. I pulled over and turned the engine off. It started but died soon after. Now the engine wont even turn. Fuel pressure, engine temp, and everything else I checked was fine. Any ideas on what the problem is?? Possibly a piston not firing? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • texas_05texas_05 Member Posts: 1
    Is your A/C being left on when you shut the truck off or being turned on as soon as you start it up? I had the same sound and spoke to a friend of mine who drives an F-450. He says it's A/C related and it doesn't happen if your a/c is off before startup. I tested it and the sound went away for me.
  • rangeralrangeral Member Posts: 4
    That's exactly it. For some reason, the A/C compressor creates a clunk noise that transfers to the interior. Drove me and my mechanic a bit crazy. Still not sure exactly how the noise is produced as it sounds more like a driveline clunk than anything else. A/C works fine so I'll attribute it to a characteristic of Ford compressors. Thanks for the reply Texas 05. Nice to know I'm not crazy.
  • phillies24phillies24 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 6 cyl 4.0 liter.. It keeps misfiring, and bank 1 and bank 2 lean. I changed all 6 plugs, wires, and the coil pack. Afterwards it seemed better, but wasn't fixed. Check Engline light is back on. Before, OBD said cylinder 4 and 6 were misfiring and now it's cylinder 1. The o2 sensor underneath on my tailpipe was recently changed. I hooked up a gauge showing fuel pressure and it read 72psi.. It's supposed to be between 54-62.. Would this cause it to run bad and misfire?? I need help, next step is to take it to the dearlership and I want to avoid that If I can..
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Ok, my experience is with a 94 4Liter. And I think you have a completely different motor, it changed about 1999 or so.

    But on mine, the intake loosened up. It started using a lot of oil all at once. It went from using less than a quart in a 4,000 mile chance cycle, to one morning turning on the 'Low Oil' light, and it was about 1 1/2 quart low. I read about the loose bolts, so I went over the intake tightening it down. Started in the center, then back and forth, toward both end. And several were loose, and all needed some tightening.

    This solved my oil usage problem instantly.

    It had 8 or 9mm bolt heads, and I used a 1/4 inch drive with a flex drive.

    Just something you might check. On mine the loose intake allowed an oil passage have oil pulled into the intake. On yours, it might be allowing an air leak into the intake, making it run lean. Also look at all the rubber hoses. A leak in any one might make it run lean. Look also at the large rubber, or plastic hose the pulls air from the air filter into the intake. A leak here sure would make it run lean.
  • dper299dper299 Member Posts: 19
    I have a 99 ranger 98,000 milkes with the 3.0 Flex motor. With the engine off the fan turns with same amount of movement/ resistance at operating temp as it does when it's cold . Should I not be able to move it at all once the the engine has become hot ? I am guessing the clutch is bad ? Any help is appreciated..thanks in advance
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I'm not sure, but I would think you have electric fan/s on this car. The viscous coupling fan you described haven't been used on any of my autos in many years.

    An electric fan will freewheel the same at cold or hot temps.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    the fan clutch is set to move weather it is running or not. it is filled with oil so it turns at a specified factory speed, if it is to tight it will cause the engine to overheat same way if it turns to freely. if it needs to be replaced most parts stores can tell if it's bad.
    hope this helps
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The orginial poster was talking about a 1999 Ranger.

    Doesn't it have an electric fan?
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    did you look under the hood to see if it is electric? if it's on the engine then it has a clutch, if it's on the radiator then it's electric, you mentioned clutch fan in your origonal post
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I'm having a hard time finding antifreeze that matches the specs as listed in my owner's manual. I've got a 2008 Ranger 3.0L V6 and the spec is WSS-M97B51-A1. Would one of the PEAK or PRESTONE brands that say "good for all makes and models" work?
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    if it says good for all makes and models, yes!
  • clarkejoeclarkejoe Member Posts: 5
    For a 1974 v6 with the distributor way in the back, what size socket do I need to turn the distributor?
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    you can use a 1/2" or 13mm
  • brian191brian191 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger xlt. The problem I am having is when I put the vehicle in gear and start to accelerate, I'll get up to around 20, 25, 30 or so mph and the engine reving up high, but the transmission hasnt shifted yet. Then all of a sudden the transmission will pop, the transmission will then shift the way it should. Also when the transmission pops, the overdrive light will come on and begin flashing.

    I've had the fluid and the filter changed here recently thinking that might be the problem. Someone has told me about a kick out switch might need to be changed. I've never heard of a kcik out switch on the transmission. And someone else has told me that the transmission needs to be rebuilt.

    Just looking for some different input from folks to maybe give me a idea what could be wrong with it.
  • tomtom59tomtom59 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 93 Ranger with the 3.0 engine. Once in the past few years I had the entire sending unit replaced for a "always on Empty" fuel gauge reading. They gave me the old unit and I quickly discovered gas had leaked into the brass two-piece float (through a tiny hole in the solder where the two halves meet). It sat on the bottom of the tank like a rock, hence the always on Empty reading. Since then the fuel pump seemed to die so again the tank was dropped and just the fuel pump was changed that time, six months ago. I loaned the truck for a while to someone and he informs me the fuel pump is bad. Guys, I'm not buying this crap. There is no way the pump is bad again. My line of thinking says perhaps one or both electrical connections at the sending unit connections is/are faulty and probably where the connectors are crimped onto the wires. Fuel pumps don't just die like this and certainly not repeatedly. The mechanic thinks fuel pumps in the tank "overheat" when the tank isn't kept mostly full at all times and that is what kills them. I say, BS. They don't need to be kept cool by fuel, that's the dumbest thing I've ever heard. I work on operating tables for a living. If one came to me with the complaint the right leg section won't move, I would possibly change the right leg section motor, check it out thoroughly and send it back out. If that table came back and again with a non-operational right leg section, first of all I'd be suspicious as heck. I may again replace the right leg section motor. If it came back a third time with the same issue, I'd then be positively certain the problem is not the motor. The law of probability isn't in favor of that motor repeatedly going bad, something else is causing the recurring problem. Its the same with this fuel pump. First off, Ford had no business putting pumps inside the tank. Secondly, I have a good mind to modify this setup and move it outside the tank where a: I can get to it without dropping the tank, and b: I'd buy on of those 12 volt decorative LEDs of any color and attach it directly to the very ends of the positive and negative fuel pump wiring. That way I could take a quick look under there and see if the pump is actually getting power or not. No LED lit equals no power. LED lit equals power is there. An easy diagnostic for connections you cannot access without dropping the tank which always seems to be mostly full when this happens. There are issues with Ranger fuel delivery and I don't think it's always the pump! I've had many many fuel injected cars over the years and NEVER have I had to change a fuel pump. And I'm supposed to believe the pump on the Ranger has failed three times? BS. Pumps don't just run all by themselves, they have to have good, solid, reliable electrical connections too, hot and ground or even the best of them isn't going to run. Just a side note, the same truck not long ago had a no run condition, they blamed the fuel pump (citing that the guy had recently replaced a bunch of them), then said I needed to replace the Fuel Injection Computer. I laughed. Repaired it myself, it was THE IGNITION COIL. I don't do "Easter egging" repairs.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    First, it's my understand the fuel pump is 'cooled' by the fuel flow. But I think they don't overheat quickly from lack of fuel coverage because you run out of gas before they overheat.

    But second, you may have the right idea about the connectors. When a fuel pump does start to fail, many times it doesn't fail quickly, it draws a higher than normal amount of current (not enough to open its relay) and this excessive current does fry the connector on the top. And this failing connector does not pass current well, which loads the failing pump more, which causes more current flow, and the the pump fails. Sometimes the connector fails first.

    The previous pump might have failed. And weakened the connector. The current problems might be coming from the connector. You would hope that had the connector failed, it would have been noticed while replacing, but maybe not, the damage might be inside the rubber covered area and not easily seen.

    Not sure if you can get to the connector without dropping the tank, but might be worth a try to see if you can pull it off and inspect before dropping the tank again.

    Checking the fuel pump is pretty easy. When you first turn the key to ON you should be able to hear the pump start up to pressurize the system. If you don't hear this, the pump isn't working. There is a Schrader valve on the fuel line on top of the motor and there are hose/valve test sets that attach here. These are two spec for most motors fuel pressure, a 'not running' (key to ON) and a 'running' pressure. Out of spec in either area will cause problems, not starting or performance problems. A decent mechanic should know all this and have the valve/hose and rather quickly know if a fuel pump is working ok.

    You might have a bad connector which, because of bad current flow, caused the latest pump to also fail.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    a fuel pump can last a long time, but if you let a vehicle run out of fuel it can cause the impeller to get worn enough to stop pumping fuel . most fuels have a lubricant to keep the impeller from wearing to quickly.
  • meganwoodsmeganwoods Member Posts: 1
    I have a 90 ford ranger,auto trans, 2.9 ltr, while driving it just shut down and now will not re start. Ive checked fuel line and pump and its getting gas, and its also getting spark. Any suggestions
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    it might be water in your gas, try putting gas dryer in your tank
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    you might also check your spark plugs
  • rustyroadsrustyroads Member Posts: 1
    After replacing the thermost,radiator cap,heater core,checking vacum hoses,replaice the hoses,I sill was not to get heat,I have a 1964 Ranger 223,000 miles on it,so I decided to check the water pump,the blades were almost gone new water pump solved the prop
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    I just got 2 new tires on the rear wheels, same brand, model & size as the front, Continental Contritrac. They now feel very "mushy" when I'm driving at highway speeds and change lanes, it's pretty bad as I thought I was going to lose control.

    Anything to double check besides the pressure and lug nuts before calling them?
  • droopy68516droopy68516 Member Posts: 1
    My 2003 has a rough idle and after the engine warms up the o/d light flashes. After it starts flashing the transmission starts shifting strange, it will have a little shudder after before shifting into 3rd and will shift at higher rpms. The first two gears are perfectly fine before and after the o/d light comes on. The check engine light is on as well. Having the codes pulled revealed that bank 1 is running lean. Is there a single cause that could cause both the engine to run lean and cause the transmission issues The transmission fluid was a little dark so I had the tranmission flushed, but it did not take care of things. The truck had set for a year and all of this came about after it was restarted. I am just looking for ideas. If it was something fairly easy to take care of I would do it...but most likely I will take it to a shop. I am just interested in possible causes, so they do not replace half a dozen things before taking care of the problem. Thanks for any help you can give.
  • wookie1wookie1 Member Posts: 116
    try turning the od off and see how the shift is, if it shifts ok there is a speed sensor inside the trans atached to the drive shell that might be the problem.
  • bobbyd963bobbyd963 Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if you figured out this problem yet because mine is having the same issues.
  • dahermitdahermit Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 two wheel drive, automatic transmission, Ford Ranger that just threw a rod. Unfortunately, I had just filled the gas tank. With the price of gas what it is, naturally I want to salvage the gas in the tank. However, no hose, no matter what the size will go beyond the tank filler tube...there must be an anti-syphan device in the end of the filler tube. Not to be prevented from salvaging the gas, I disconnected the fuel line at the engine, stuck a tight-fitting hose into the gas line and turned on the key, expecting the fuel pump to pump the gas into my container. It did not work...I do not know why...inasmuch as the fuel pump is suposed to activate when the key is in the "on" posistion. How can I recover my gasoline? What is the next step, disconnect the fuel filter under the driver's door (if it has one there)?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    When I disconnected the fuel filter inside the frame under the drivers door on my 1994, the gas flooded out. (I stuck a pencil in it to stop it.) So, if there is still gas up to there, it will siphon itself out. Or at least a lot of it will come out. If you've lost the vacumn, you might have to suck on it to start the siphon. And you are going to taste and belch gas for a couple of days.
  • hudsnickhudsnick Member Posts: 1
    I have searched through previous posts but none really seem to match my issues. My ranger is 1988 2.0l engine. Truck runs and starts great from a cold start, no power/acceleration issues. It will continue to run good until I turn it off and try to restart while it's still hot. When I try to restart it will crank but not start like it does when cold. Then power seems ok in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear but in 4th gear the power seems to max out at around 45mph (pedal to the floor) and feels like the engine is shaking (almost feels like a flat tire). I just replaced plugs with not much improvement. Would appreciate any advice/thoughts.
  • mharnischmharnisch Member Posts: 11
    My 99 Ranger XLT with 3.0 flex engine (I only use regular unleaded) and 91,000 miles has just started stumbling on acceleration and also when coming to a stop. It starts fine and most of the time it is OK, only stumbling occasionally. It has yet to stall out. The plugs, wires and fuel filter were changed about 5000 miles ago. Has anyone experienced this problem? What should I check?
  • moz3moz3 Member Posts: 1
    I have F Ranger 2008, 3LDiesel. I live in Mozambique, so no dealer around here. A staff member filled my Ranger with Petrol. Luckily I realised and did not start the motor. I drained the tank, flushed with Diesel, changed the fuel filter,started the engine, and it is running well. My problem is that the engine warning light comes on when in motion and limits the enigine to 2200rpm. I suppose that this has to be reset? How can I do this myself? Has anyone have a solution?
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