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Comments
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/20/992023C3.html
I can vouch for Rangers 4x2's, the 2002 Edge extended cab I drove this last weekend had no vibration, and I got it to just under 80 (The sales guy was starting to get upset). This was with a manual and 4.0l as well. My old 93 2.3l regular cab 4x2 auto has no problems either.
I am getting so close to getting a new one, but I am holding out on the possible remake for 2003.
On 4X4's there isn't a whole lot more that could cause the problem, but from reading your post you seem to have a good start on figuring it out. You have a pretty precise read on the speed it occurs, so it has to be a small inbalance on one of the rotating parts. Next step would be to try to figure out the location it is coming from. Have someone ride along, in the back, in the bed, in a car along side to even try to see the source. No radio, no vents even, they may have to feel around the floorpan even listen for the source.
It could be as simple as some fix-a flat liquid in a tire that sloshes around at that speed, an out of phase U-joint, un balanced drive shaft, or just a warped tire or rim.
First start would be to rotate the tires (and maybe rims separately), and see if the problem moves/changes. People say that first, because it's the cheapest to do. Then start looking at axles or driveshafts. Then all that's left is the engine or transmission, which could also explain the off-on nature you described. Good luck man, keep us updated with any new info, someone here is bound to be able to offer something new.
It is WELL WORTH the 25 bucks. Lieterally REAMS of info are available: TSB's, shop manual procedures, exploded diagrams, etc. Here is something interesting I am going to pursue with Ford. It appears they recommend replacing the 3.5 inch steel driveshaft with an ALUMINUM 4.0 inch version.
The part number is: 1L5Z 4602 JM for the 1998-00 Ranger. This is for the REAR driveshaft (NOT including the slip yoke). AllData lists a price for a rear driveshaft (although the same part number does not match up..perhaps this id due to older part number OR that is a number for a STEEL shaft) for extended cab Ranger at about $ 390.00 US. [I am assuming the alloy shaft would be priced in that ballpark, or slightly higher]. It may be worth it to you (if your truck is out of warranty) to consider simply buying this shaft outright from a Ford dealer and installing it yourself. Also, an outfit called "Denny's Driveshaft" can custom build a similar alloy shaft for about that price. My research is showing that these lighter weight shafts smoothe out these trucks a lot, and may be wroth a try, if wheel/tire/ aligment methods don't do the trick. Just a thought. ALSO, GET A SHOP WHO IS KNOWLEDGABLE to remove and check trueness [i.e. via runout gauge] and balance of your driveshaft and GREASE IT PROPERLY and reinstall. It can be done for about 60-80 bucks, and may also solve problems. Good luck to you, sir.
ps. nice to see you at least have one ford.
First, make sure the battery hasn't dried up on you. I live in Texas, and the summers here are usually in the 100's. Maybe twice a year, I pop the caps off the battery, to make sure there is the water (and electrolyte) solution hasn't evaporated.
If the battery isn't completely full, get some DISTILLED water and fill it up. You may have to leave the battery on a charger if you have gone a long time with a half full battery.
If the battery is beyond hope, or just showing it's age, it's worth while and pretty simple to just replace it. You can check the battery for a sticker that will show the date the battery was made. It is usually a letter indicating month, followed by a one digit year. (A1) would mean January of 2001. B=Feb. etc.
If you can't see the sticker, or it's unreadable, it's probably time to change it anyways.
Things to look for:
CCA=Cold Cranking Amps. This is the amount of amps your battery is rated to deliver, at or above 7 volts) for 30 seconds at 0 degrees F.
You battery should always meet or exceed OEM CCA specs. Mine is around 900 CCA (Duralast-Gold), which is one of the biggest Autozone sells, and it has lasted at least 3-4 years. Never had a problem turning my 2.3l over. Also, the colder the climate, the more amps you need because a cold battery is not working at full potential. In warmer climates a high CCA battery might be overkill, but usually they are only a few dollars more.
RC=Reserve Capacity. This is the number of minutes the battery can deliver over 20 amps, until the voltage falls below 10 volts. More RC is better, always!
Comments or Questions welcome to Wgramlich@yahoo.com.
Today I saw to brands of oil (Penzoil & Valolene) that state they will stop or reduce oil drips.
I have been using Mobil1 5-30 for 94000.This is a 4.0 L engine.
Does any one have info on these reduce drip oils?
The way I prefer to do brakes is open the bleeder valve only after everything is back in place, and have someone press the brake pedal. This obviously takes two people, but you can bleed the brakes pretty well. Just close the valve after a fair amount of fluid bleeds out. Make sure you close it before it stops bleeding out.
Doing that at all four corners will ensure fresh fluid in all the lines. Just place fresh fluid in the master cylinder before and after bleeding the brakes.
So only open the valve after you have the caliper and new pads in place.
Article No.
00-3-6
02/07/00
^
NOISE - "BUZZING" AND/OR "GRINDING" DURING 2-3 SHIFT - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH M5OD TRANSMISSION AND BUILT BEFORE 11/1/1999
^
TRANSMISSION - M5OD - "BUZZING" AND/OR "GRINDING" NOISE DURING 2-3 SHIFT - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH M5OD TRANSMISSION AND
BUILT BEFORE 11/1/1999
FORD:
1998-2000 EXPLORER, RANGER
ISSUE
Some vehicles may exhibit a "buzzing" and/or "grinding" noise or a "notchy" feeling during the 2-3 upshift. This may be caused by the 3-4
synchronizer.
ACTION
Replace the 3-4 synchronizer assembly. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
First, verify that vehicle exhibits a buzzing/grinding/notchy feeling/sensation during 2-3 upshift and determine it your transmission serial
number is greater than the serial number listed below. If the vehicle does NOT exhibit a buzzing/grinding/notchy feeling/sensation and is
greater than the serial number listed on the chart below, proceed with other appropriate diagnostics for repair. Reference the
appropriate Workshop Manual for assistance.
NOTE ALL TRANSMISSIONS WITH SERIAL NUMBERS GREATER THAN THE ONES LISTED BELOWARE NOT AFFECTED. USE THE CHART BELOW AND
THE SAMPLE TAG INFORMATION TO ASSIST IN DETERMINING IF THIS FIX IS APPLICABLE. THE TRANSMISSION SERIAL NUMBER IS LOCATED ON
THE TAG ATTACHED TO THE LEFT SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION.
TRANSMISSION SERIAL NUMBER INFORMATION
Transmission Application Tag Transmission Serial Number
2.5L I-4 4X2 F87A - AB less than 0629756
3.0L V-6 4X2 F87A - CA less than 0628220
3.0L V-6 4X4 F87A - DA less than D624514
4.0L V-6 4X2 F87A - EA less than D639401
4.0L V-6 4X4 FB7A - FA less than 0627480
1.
Drain all fluid from the transmission and remove the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop
Manual.
2.
Disassemble the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.
3.
Inspect the brass blocking rings for any damage. If they are not damaged, reuse on reassembly.
4.
Replace the synchronizer. Additionally, replace brass blocking rings if necessary.
5.
Reassemble the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.
6.
Reinstall the transmission and fill with new fluid. Test drive to verify repair.
NOTE AFTER THE REPAIR, THE TRANSMISSION MAY FEEL STIFF, ESPECIALLY IF THE BRASS BLOCKING RINGS WERE REPLACED. THIS WILL GO
AWAY AFTER DRIVING THE VEHICLE FOR SEVERAL KILOMETERS/MILES, AS THE NEW BLOCKING RINGS NEED TIME TO RESEAT AGAINST THE
GEAR CONE.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
F2TZ-7124-AB Synchronizer Assembly (2.5L And 3.0L)
F2TZ-7124-CA Synchronizer Assembly (4.0L)
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 505000
Bleeding brakes is a fairly simple matter, but it just takes two people. One to open and close the valve, another to press the brake pedal. With the valve open, brake fluid will spray out with force on the pedal. Just close before the fluid stops. It's quite simple to do once you see it done, and it's fun to try to get the other tech sprayed with fluid, especially if it's first thing in the morning...
The only thing to check for is spongy brakes, that indicates a air bubble in the lines. You can test under hard braking to see which corner it's on, or just bleed them systematically. Over time brake fluid goes bad, so it's recommended to get fresh fluid into everything.
Just keep a close watch (feel) on the squeaky brake linings. What material did you go with? It could go away, especially with slow even braking over the next few weeks.
Thanks for the help! D.Anne
After being a life-long Ford-basher, I now own one, a '92 with 4.0L engine, with 176,000 Km, in really nice shape! I have some questions about getting this truck road-worthy.
1 - I need to do the timing cover gasket and was thinking of pulling the rad to get at it. Is there a better way?
2 - For the new timing cover gasket, I was going to use shellac on the cover side (so it won't slip again) and Permatex #2 on the engine side. Sound ok?
3 - Should I replace the timing chain while I'm in there?
The rest of the work is stright forward, brakes all the way around, exhaust system, and a couple little things.
Dang! I own a @#$%$% Ford.....
Other alternatives would be to try a CD cleaner disc or try spraying some compressed air into the unit to clear up any built up grime. This is not a sure fix, but it may help out.
calamityjane--->176000 Km (or just over 100,000 miles) is pretty good milage. My '93 is up to 139,500 miles (or ~224455 Km) but that is with a 2.3l 4 cylinder.
Just about any tube or RTV Silicon will do, I prefer Permatex Ultra Black Hi Temp RTV. And if you're a new owner of the vehicle, a new timing chain will only be good insurance at that point. Most chains should go 100,000 miles, but not always. Check your manual for an exact time to change it in milage. Replacing the timing chain could help eliminate any slack in the valve timing.
As far as the radiator, just depends on you. It shouldn't be required to pull, but sometimes that extra space is oh so handy to have. Besides the coolant mess, there should only be two brackets on either side of the radiator top, holding it in place.
Also I would recommend a Haynes or Chilton's service manual for your vehicle. One of these (or something equivalent) should be available in Canada, and they explain how to do just about everything to the vehicle. They even include step by step photos on most procedures, so it can be a big help on knowing what to do and when. Try picking one up, or at least read through one on the timing cover gasket and chain replacement. You'll swear by them afterwards.
A "TSB" (i.e. technical service bulletin) is a bulletin issued by the manufacturer for the DEALER SERVICE DEPT>This is authored to help the dealer repair specific problems of a vehicle. This may, or may not, lead to something more significant such as a formal "RECALL", which is basically forced upon the manufacturer by the government. TSB's I have found to be very helpful: they reveal UP TO DATE methods [and tell about revised parts...incuding PART NUMBERS of newly engineered parts] to repair sometimes difficult problems (that would otherwise NOT be revealed in a Haynes or Chilton manual). A recent TSB has helped me diagnose a major vibration problem in a nearly new Ranger, for example [The fix is to switch TO an aluminum driveshaft FROM the original tube of solid rust]. These TSB's can be downloaded, for a 1 year subscription fee for one vehicle, from www.alldata.com. Well worth the 25 bucks. Each addition vehicle costs another 15 bucks...a steal, IMHO, considering the info available. Good luck.
Article No.
01-11-11
06/11/01
^
NOISE - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" HEARD ON LIGHT
ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR WHEN
BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK
SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT
SPLINES 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY
^
DRIVESHAFT - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" NOISE HEARD
ON LIGHT ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR
WHEN BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT SPLINE - 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY
FORD:
1998-2001 RANGER
This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year applications for the service parts required.
ISSUE
Some 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency "thump" type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop, and/or when
coming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration and creating a
stick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip-joint splines causing the "thump"/"clunk" sensation.
ACTION
Replace 3.5" steel driveshaft with 4.0 "aluminum rear driveshaft. This requires installation of a revised fuel tank skid plate. for vehicles built
before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1.
Reference yellow balance mark on existing steel driveshaft. Using chalk, paint-pen or equivalent, index a mark on the rear axle flange
in-line with yellow mark on driveshaft. This will enable the new driveshaft to be reinstalled in an original balanced state.
2.
Remove existing steel driveshaft from vehicle.
3.
Using the previous reference mark on the axle, align the applicable revised aluminum driveshaft yellow mark to the axle flange mark.
This will assure correct orientation of the new service driveshaft.
4.
Install new service driveshaft and t6rque all eight (8) fasteners to 88-119 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
5.
Remove fuel tank skid plate for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package.
6.
Replace with new service Skid Plate (1L5Z-9A147-AA).
7.
Torque fuel tank skid plate fasteners to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).
8.
Verify condition has been corrected by accelerating from a stop, and/or with light to moderate braking when coming to a stop.
Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 01-9-6
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under the Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage.
OPERATION/DESCRIPTION/TIME
DEALER CODING
OASIS CODES: 597997, 702000, 702200, 702300, 703000, 703200, 703400
^
1993-1996 1.9L Escort/Tracer
^
1995-2000 2.0L Zetec Contour/Mystique
^
1999-2002 2.0L Cougar
^
1997-2002 2.0L Escort/Tracer
^
1998-2002 2.0L Escort ZX2
^
2000-2002 2.0L Focus
^
2001-2002 2.0L Escape
^
1993-1997 2.3L Ranger
^
1993-1994 2.3L Mustang
^
1993-1994 2.3L Tempo/Topaz
^
1998-2001 2.5L Ranger
^
1995-2000 2.5L Contour/Mystique
^
1999-2002 2.5L Cougar
^
2001-2002 3.0L 4V Escape
^
1996-2001 3.0L 4V Taurus/Sable
^
1993-2002 3.0L (Vulcan) Aerostar/Ranger,
^
Taurus/Sable (Flexible Fuel and Gas)
^
1995-2000 3.0L (Vulcan) Windstar
^
1993-1994 3.0L (Vulcan) Tempo/Topaz
^
2000-2002 3.0L 4V Lincoln LS
^
1995-2002 3.8L Windstar
^
1993-1997 3.8L Taurus/Sable,
^
Thunderbird/Cougar, Continental
^
1994-2002 3.8L Mustang
^
2002-2002 3.9L 4V Lincoln LS
^
1997-2002 4.2L (SPI) F-150 (under 8500 GVW
only), E-Series
^
1996-2002 4.6L 2V Mustang
^
1992-2002 4.6L Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis
^
1991-2002 4.6L Town Car
^
1994-1997 4.6L 2V Thunderbird/Cougar
^
1996-2002 4.6L 4V Mustang Cobra
^
1995-2002 4.6L 4V Continental
^
1993-1998 4.6L 4V Mark VIII
^
1997-2002 4.6L 2V Triton F-150/250 (under 8500
GVW only), E-Series, Expedition
^
1993-1999 4.9L E-Series, F-Series
^
1993-1995 5.0L Mustang/Mustang Cobra
^
1993-1993 5.0L Thunderbird/Cougar
^
1997-2001 5.0L Explorer/Mountaineer
^
1993-1996 5.0L E-Series, F-Series, Bronco
^
2000-2002 5.4L Excursion
^
1998-2002 5.4L 2V/4V Navigator
^
1997-2002 5.4L 2V F-1501250 (under 8500
GVW only), Expedition, E-Series, E-350
Chassis/RV/Cutaway
^
1993-1997 5.8L F-Series, Bronco
^
1993-1996 5.8L E-Series
^
2000-2002 6.8L Excursion
^
1997-2002 6.8L E-Series, E-350
Chassis/RV/Cutaway
^
1999-2002 6.8L Super Duty F-Series 250
HD/350/450/550 Motorhome
^
1993-1998 7.5L All Vehicles
NOTE FOR 1993 THROUGH 1998 MODEL YEAR FFV USE XO-10W30-FFV.
NOTE THE "EXCEPTION 2001-2002 VEHICLES" SHOULD BE SERVICED WITH SAE 5W-30 MOTOR OIL
Article No.
01-11-11
06/11/01
^
NOISE - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" HEARD ON LIGHT
ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR WHEN
BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK
SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT
SPLINES 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY
^
DRIVESHAFT - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" NOISE HEARD
ON LIGHT ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR
WHEN BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT SPLINE - 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY
FORD:
1998-2001 RANGER
This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year applications for the service parts required.
ISSUE
Some 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency "thump" type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop, and/or when
coming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration and creating a
stick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip-joint splines causing the "thump"/"clunk" sensation.
ACTION
Replace 3.5" steel driveshaft with 4.0 "aluminum rear driveshaft. This requires installation of a revised fuel tank skid plate. for vehicles built
before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1.
Reference yellow balance mark on existing steel driveshaft. Using chalk, paint-pen or equivalent, index a mark on the rear axle flange
in-line with yellow mark on driveshaft. This will enable the new driveshaft to be reinstalled in an original balanced state.
2.
Remove existing steel driveshaft from vehicle.
3.
Using the previous reference mark on the axle, align the applicable revised aluminum driveshaft yellow mark to the axle flange mark.
This will assure correct orientation of the new service driveshaft.
4.
Install new service driveshaft and t6rque all eight (8) fasteners to 88-119 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
5.
Remove fuel tank skid plate for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package.
6.
Replace with new service Skid Plate (1L5Z-9A147-AA).
7.
Torque fuel tank skid plate fasteners to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).
8.
Verify condition has been corrected by accelerating from a stop, and/or with light to moderate braking when coming to a stop.
Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 01-9-6
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under the Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage.
OPERATION/DESCRIPTION/TIME
DEALER CODING
OASIS CODES: 597997, 702000, 702200, 702300, 703000, 703200, 703400
Article No.
02-1-9
01/21/02
ENGINE - ENGINE OIL - RECOMMENDED
APPLICATIONS FOR SAE 5W-20 AND SAE 5W-30
MOTOR OILS - GASOLINE AND FLEXIBLE FUEL
VEHICLES ONLY
FORD:
1992-2002 CROWN VICTORIA
1993-1994 TEMPO
1993-1997 THUNDERBIRD
1993-2002 ESCORT, MUSTANG, TAURUS
1995-2000 CONTOUR
1998-2002 ESCORT ZX2
2000-2002 FOCUS
1993-1996 BRONCO
1993-1997 AEROSTAR
1993-2002 E SERIES, F-150, RANGER
1995-2002 WINDSTAR
1997-1999 F-250 LD
1997-2001 EXPLORER
1997-2002 EXPEDITION
1999-2002 SUPER DUTY F SERIES, SUPER DUTY F-53 STRIPPED CHAS.
2000-2002 EXCURSION
2001-2002 ESCAPE
LINCOLN:
1991-2002 TOWN CAR
1993-1998 MARK VIII
1993-2002 CONTINENTAL
2000-2002 LS
1998-2002 NAVIGATOR
MERCURY:
1992-2002 GRAND MARQUIS
1993-1994 TOPAZ
1993-1997 COUGAR
1993-1999 TRACER
1993-2002 SABLE
1995-2000 MYSTIQUE
1999-2002 COUGAR
1997-2001 MOUNTAINEER
This article is being republished in its entirety to update the vehicle models, engines and years affected.
NOTE PLEASE REFER TO THE VEHICLE APPLICATION LIST LATER IN THIS TSB FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF VEHICLES AFFECTED BY THIS TSB.
ISSUE
Ford Motor Company now recommends SAE 5W-20 viscosity grade for servicing most gasoline and flexible fueled vehicles.
ACTION
All 2001 and 2002 vehicles where SAE 5W-20 is specified should be serviced at the recommended oil change intervals using SAE 5W-20.
This oil is an improved formulation to improve fuel economy.
Testing has validated this viscosity grade can be used in many previous model year vehicles. It is recommended ALL vehicles on the
following Vehicle Application Listing be service with SAE 5W-20.
All 2001-2002 vehicles other than those listed in the "Exception 2001 Vehicles" or "Exception 2002 Vehicles" chart are being filled with SAE
5W-20 motor oil at the factory and should also be serviced with SAE 5W-20 oil.
Exception 2001 Vehicles
Exception 2002 Vehicles
NOTE IF VEHICLE IS NOT LISTED IN THIS APPLICATION, SAE 5W-30 OIL IS RECOMMENDED. REFER TO TSB 99-8-16.
Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: 99-8-16
SUPERSEDES: 01-4-7
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 401000, 490000, 497000, 499000
the "bracket" that holds the left rear leaf spring to the frame is shattered due to rust. This is the rear bracket closest to the bumper.
Are these brackets replaceable?? At what cost?? Anybody else have this problem? I can't win, I had a front wheel bearing go bad last week. With 117,000 miles the truck has been good... until now. HELP!
Thanks
swede, bearings just don't go bad, they fail over time. You need to repack them with grease, especially after any water crossings, escapades near sand, or after 5-10 thousands miles. The older they are, the more likely they are starting to score or wear.
As far as the bracket, I found a pretty neat website for cheap replacement body parts on vehicles. But I have it saved at work, I will let you know if I find anything on the bracket.
On my 2002 Ranger Edge V6 3.0 engined stick shift truck, I am getting an annoying rattle when idling in neutral that disappears when load is on the transmission or when the clutch is engaged.
It is really loud. The truck sounds like it has a diesel block!
I have taken it to two dealers who have said the noise is a normal 'roll-over' noise from the tranny.
They even bought another edge stick in and it sounded exactly the same after the engine warmed up. It is reallt annoying.
Is this normal?
Has any one else experienced this?
I can believe it is normal after hearing the other truck, but I find it unbelievable that Ford would put a truck out making such a loud noise and call it normal.
The dealer advised me that after 1000+ miles I can switch to heavier transmission fluid, but that will make it hard to shift when the engine is cold according to him.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
5 minutes after I filled my tank with Chevron Regular unleaded gas, the engine light came on. It began jolting/jerking on the freeway at 60 miles. When I come to stop it stalls/dies sometimes.
When truck is stopped and idling the light comes on for a while, then it goes off. Any suggestion please help. The truck still has the original spark plugs. I did re-tight the gas cap.
I have a new 2002 XLT with the auto tranny. No such noise from the auto. I've never before heard a noise described as a "roll-over" noise. I have no clue what that term implies.
While shopping for motorcycles I found an interesting site that gave lots of tips. One applied to cars and trucks too. It talked about filling up at a gas station right after the tanker truck fills up the stations tanks. By doing so, lots of dirt and grime gets mixed up and can make for a bad tank of gas. Their advice was to always go to the same place, and never right after such an event.
If all these symptoms started after a tank of gas, I would go get some premium gas in there to dilute the bad gas. Chevron is usually a good place to go, but I sounds like something funny was going on.
I have a 2000 4cyl 5 speed stick shift GMC Sonoma with the same type of noise. I am told that it is normal. I have a couple of documented complaints on file at the dealership and if it gives problems in the future I will attempt to get warranty repairs since it showed up during the warranty. Sounds like marbles rolling around.