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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • lemonfordlemonford Member Posts: 1
    It's a 2000 ranger, 25,000 miles, Auto, extended cab, flex-fuel.... just got paid $5000 by Ford because it's a lemon. Legal Costs to me: Nothing.

    Problem: AC compressor cycles SO friggin rapidly that it sounds like a clicking noise. was serviced 15 times (but I could have sued after 4 attempts). Completely sporadic problem... ended up wearing out the serpentine about 30K miles early!

    After everything is done and said, I've probably had the freon refilled 4 times, compressor and all components eventually replaced twice (or more for some switches)

    Nightmare doesn't end: Sporadicaly doesn't start - doesn't even turn over or click...but now I'm outta warranty. Send me an email if you can help. I'm a full-time student and a business owner and having the truck decide to not start is ruining my life (the dealerships have no idea what's happening) It seems to occur early/later afternoon and ends up starting after the sun sets. (I'm in Arizona and it's like 105 out)

    an email would be most helpful.
    Thanks,
    Andrew Walker
    walkera@email.arizona.edu
  • peaches5peaches5 Member Posts: 91
    I tried to run a search on this and couldn't find anything, so I'm sorry if this is a repeat of a problem. On our 3 week old Ranger (that's already been in for a "Check Gage" light), is melting CD's. Both homemade and store bought have been in there. None of the homemade have had labels on them and have played in at least 10 other CD players with no problem. We're sceduled to take it in next week, but I was wondering if anyone else had this happen.
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    I would suggest that your dealer/mechanic is just incompetent.

    Regarding the A/C...a low Freon level can cause rapid cycling of the compressor. But, there is no reason to recharge the system unless there is proof (like a simple pressure measurement) that there is a leak. If there is a leak, it must be located and fixed.

    Regarding the no-start condition...the diagnostic codes stored in the computer should direct any mechanic to the cause.

    I would suggest that the two problems are related and are caused by an intermittent failure in the computer. It controls both the A/C and the engine. It is an expensive replacement, but it could be cheap considering what your time is worth.
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    I have a 2002 Mazda B4000 - same as a Ranger. My CDs do get a little warm but nowhere near melting. Hopefully, your dealer will just go ahead and replace it rather than mess you around. Might be good to show them the evidence.
  • ricksfordricksford Member Posts: 4
    Anyone have an idea as to how I can tell if the truck (used) I am purchasing as a limited slip. It is a 4.0 Auto. Thanks Rick
  • ricksfordricksford Member Posts: 4
    As in limited slip differential rear axel.

    Thanks
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    Should have an axle code in the door plate/sticker. I will have to find a reference list online for you somewhere....


    Heh, just found it....


    http://www.fordf150.net/howto/decode.htm

  • ricksfordricksford Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info about reading the door panel. Someone at Ford told me to read the axle tag on the actual axle and see if it has a letter "L" before the ratio ie L3.55

    Do you know of this?
  • eharri3eharri3 Member Posts: 640
    There's a fan in there that is supposed to spin to keep the radio cool. The thing may be overheating if the fan isn't working.
  • peaches5peaches5 Member Posts: 91
    Took the truck up to the dealer today and they took the player out and have to send it off for replacement/repair. Not sure why they couldn't have just replaced it with one from the lot, but what do I know :P
  • nerdnerd Member Posts: 203
    You probably know more than the bums at the dealer. They could have easily swapped a unit for you, but they just figured that they had you hooked.

    My experience is that repairing car radios is a waste of time - the repair lasts only a few days. I hope you have better luck.
  • jmac13jmac13 Member Posts: 2
    I need some advice. My '98 4.0 Supercab 4X4 has 40,000 miles and Ford has already replaced the Drive shaft at 20k miles as a TSB warranty item. I feel the same problem beginning again at about 35k miles if not 30. It was greatly accentuated last weekend on a trip to the Nevada heat. My purchased warranty expires at 48k miles and I had planned on getting attention to this problem before the warranty expires. I am convinced another replacement is a band-aid and will occur again. I had planned on keeping this jewel until at least 100k miles. I don't want to be spending the $700 out of pocket every 20,000 miles to buy a new drive shaft. The dealers work order listed the new shaft as due to "binding splines" It's very aggravating in stop & go traffic which I do quite a bit on the freeways. Should I trade it in or keep it? I really cant afford to do this but I will if needed. -Thanks
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I have had similar troubles with my 2000 model Ranger (long cab, 4x4). I had a new alloy aluminum 4 inch job installed at about 13K miles. So far, so good. I could have bought the part for about 300 bucks, and I was ready to even though the truck was under warranty (I have a Blue OVal Dealer...what a joke). If you like the truck, MAKE SURE you get the latest ALUMINUM shaft, which is totally redesigned. I posted the TSB in an earlier post. It would be much cheaper to buy a shaft AGAIN rather than to get killed on depreciation (Ranger owners already have one of the fasted depreciating small trucks as it is). Good luck.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    MAKE SURE YOU GET THE NEWEST ALUMINUM shaft, NOT A STEEL ONE. THEY ARE MADE BY DIFFERENT MANUFACTURERS !!
    Driveline - Thump/Clunk Noise
    Article No.
    01-11-11

    06/11/01

    ^
    NOISE - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" HEARD ON LIGHT
    ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR WHEN
    BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK
    SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT
    SPLINES 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY
    ^
    DRIVESHAFT - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" NOISE HEARD
    ON LIGHT ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR
    WHEN BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT SPLINE - 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY

    FORD:
    1998-2001 RANGER

    This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year applications for the service parts required.

    ISSUE

    Some 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency "thump" type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop, and/or when
    coming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration and creating a
    stick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip-joint splines causing the "thump"/"clunk" sensation.

    ACTION

    Replace 3.5" steel driveshaft with 4.0 "aluminum rear driveshaft. This requires installation of a revised fuel tank skid plate. for vehicles built
    before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE

    1.
    Reference yellow balance mark on existing steel driveshaft. Using chalk, paint-pen or equivalent, index a mark on the rear axle flange
    in-line with yellow mark on driveshaft. This will enable the new driveshaft to be reinstalled in an original balanced state.
    2.
    Remove existing steel driveshaft from vehicle.
    3.
    Using the previous reference mark on the axle, align the applicable revised aluminum driveshaft yellow mark to the axle flange mark.
    This will assure correct orientation of the new service driveshaft.
    4.
    Install new service driveshaft and t6rque all eight (8) fasteners to 88-119 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
    5.
    Remove fuel tank skid plate for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package.
    6.
    Replace with new service Skid Plate (1L5Z-9A147-AA).
    7.
    Torque fuel tank skid plate fasteners to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).
    8.
    Verify condition has been corrected by accelerating from a stop, and/or with light to moderate braking when coming to a stop.

    Parts Block

    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
    SUPERSEDES: 01-9-6
    WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under the Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage.

    OPERATION/DESCRIPTION/TIME

    DEALER CODING

    OASIS CODES: 597997, 702000, 702200, 702300, 703000, 703200, 703400
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    MAKE SURE that the shaft is greased properly, and at proper intervals. This is very imortant. Centripetal force can have a nasty habit of flinging lubricant into the boot, OUT of the very mating surfaces that require the lubrication. Then, the splines can get galled, and the whole phenomenon can recur. The new alloy shaft is heliarced to splines that are machined with closer tolerances, and are of a harder steel allow to insure resistance to deformation. DOUBLE CHECK to make sure they were lubed properly IN THE FIRST PLACE !! It is possible some young mechanic simply slapped it in there and did NOT lubricate it to spec. Also, Ford requires the grade of grease required; that is ALSO important !! Regular chassis grease is not used, and may leak out, as it may not take the friction related heat of a spinning, vibrating shaft.
  • jmac13jmac13 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the input. So your telling me that the dealer will know acknowledge the Aluminium shaft and install with no problems - thats cool.

    One more thing. Sometimes after coming to a stop I notice a low pitched hum, like a high pressure fluid travelling through a hose coming from the engine. I can't find anything on it. Any Ideas?
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I am not acknowledging that your dealer will do ANYTHING. All I am saying is that my dealer, AFTER I took him the printed TSB, finally did acknowledge the problem. Print the TSB out and take it to your dealer. If that gets no results, write to Ford registered mail (return receipt requested) and tell them the problem. You will very likely get support. Ford doesn't need to lose any more customers, as they are already hemorrhaging money like a stuck sow. Good luck...and BTW, my next truck will be a Toyota.
  • joshtree49joshtree49 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2001 Ranger Edge with power side windows. Yesterday a roommate borrowed it and came back with the driver side mirror almost dangling from its post. There don't appear to be any breaks in the plastic and the glass face is intact. Any suggestions on how to get the housing mounted back properly?

    Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Yea, tell your roomie you are taking it to Ford to get fixed, and he's going to pay for it.
  • niksniks Member Posts: 1
    94 xlt with 4 cyl, 75k miles, recent tune-up - occasionally the check engine light comes on, then goes off with no noticeable running differences. i know that could be anything, but, 2 or 3 times per year, this truck will stall or refuse to restart; it has spark when cranking, seems to want to catch (sneezes a little)- seems like a fuel prob. (like a vapor lock condition on non-fuel injected cars). If i let it sit a while, it will start right up & run fine for another bunch of months!!!

    tune up included air & fuel filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel additive.

    will O2, MAP or airflow sensors do this ? if so, why not more often? (by the way, the check engine light does not happen at the same time as the starting problem)

    thanks!! nik
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    Try changing to a new gas cap.
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    You might also check vacuum lines. I would also say MAP sensor would probably be worth trying too, and the o2 sensor shouldn't do much except cause poor fuel economy.
  • dookerdooker Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4cylinder that died on me at a stop light. The truck had been running fine and gave no symptoms prior to shutting down. When I turn the key to pwr I cannot hear the fuel pump at all. It there an easy way to verify pump operation prior to dropping the fuel tank?
    Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    There is a relay for the fuel pump. It's in the main power box under the hood. This relay sometimes fails and the pump will not run.

    There is also a fuel shutoff (activates if the vehicle is hit hard) that might have become activated. This is under the edge of the carpet at the front of the 'hump', on the right side, under the dash. There is a pushbutton to reset.

    These are 2 of the easier things that should be checked before tearing out the fuel tank.
  • jkinnerjkinner Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 basic Ranger..nothing fancy...4 wheels, 5 spd, and 4 cyl engine. I have a similar problem to what was posted in message #228...When driving in city traffic for about 15 minutes... When the clutch is engaged while stopping, the engine RPM jumps to 3000. When the clutch is released, the RPM drops back to a normal level. This continues until I turn the engine off and re start it. After re starting the engine, it's good for another 30 minutes or go before the excessive high rpm re occurs." The dealer has replaced the "Body Assembly Air Intake" which seemed to fix the problem, but now it has come back. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    I just purchased a 2001 Super Cab 4X4 with the 4.0 engine and 5 speed automatic. The truck only has 13,000 miles so is obviously under warranty but I would appreciate some input on a characteristic that I have noticed. I have read all about the driveshaft issue but this doesn't seem exactly the same.

    When accelerating from a dead stop, (easy or hard makes no difference) there seems to be a slight "lag." There is no clunk, thump, or vibration as discussed earlier on this board. It does feel like driveline slop but, as I said, there is no noise. It almost feels like a downshift from 2nd to 1st, but of course it is already in 1st.

    Frey44, do you think this is the driveshaft issue or something else entirely?
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    Well, my question is answered. I stopped by my Ford dealer this morning and described my driveline "lag." The shop foreman and I started to take it for a drive and before we got out of the parking lot, he said, "Yep, it needs the new aluminum driveshaft. There is a TSB on it. We can do it for you tomorrow."
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    Let us know how it goes....
  • tonustonus Member Posts: 2
    Guys, This discussion is use to talk about Ranger problems...so here is a real and repetitive problem on Ranger and B-series trucks. This truck has a clutch hydraulic system issue. It happened in my Ranger 1997 and now in my B-3000 2002. The problem is the following: while driving your truck and depressing the clutch pedal, you suddenly feel a free-play, about 1-2 inches travel, before you feel normal hydraulic resisance. The clutch works, but the friction point is then more far. It's just so frustrating to feel that "loose" pedal travel. And it comes and it goes...it's intermitent. My dealer wants to replace the slave cylinder inside the transmission...I think he should check the master cylinder first. So do you guys experienced similar problem ? On my side, twice the same problem on 2 trucks. Cheers!
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    This forum has not been a flurry of activity lately but for those interested, here is an update on the driveline "lag" issue I complained about in #526.

    I am the proud owner of a brand new sparkling aluminum driveshaft! Happily, the driveline is now snug as a bug in a rug. I never had the vibrations like Frey had, but my truck is now even smoother than it was before. Before, there was a slight road rumble that I attributed to the tires. That rumble is now gone. "Drive" to "Reverse" and "Reverse" to "Drive" is tight and quiet, too.

    So, if anyone has a late model Ranger with the old rusty tube of steel under it, and you think you have some strange driveline symptoms, this is a likely fix.
  • harleyrider14harleyrider14 Member Posts: 1
    I've been reading most of the 500+ messages on the board and wanted to respond to several inquiries... I have 97 Ranger 4x4 3.0L Manual Transmission XL regular cab short bed that I bought new and now have 95,000 miles on it. I've read inquiries about the following:

    Dome Light/Door Ajar light stays on: Sensors in the bottom of the doors need to be replaced - doesn't use the "button" type switches like other vehichles - my dealer did it in 20 minutes (both doors).

    Windshield wipers come on for no reason: Multi-function switch needs replacing.

    check engine light came on once right at the same time the engine "shuddered" and almost stalled and blew a cloud of black smoke out the exhaust. Drove straight to my dealer, computer said nothing, turned the truck off and on and the light went out. Said it was probably a chunk of carbon blowing through the fuel system that disrupted the fuel flow for a second. No problems since (20,000 miles ago).

    Other things I needed in 95,000 miles: On my third serpintine belt (1st one went at 8,000 miles. U-joints replaced at 20,000 - no problems since. I've only had normal maintanence done other than that. I get 20-22 mpg consistently using cheap gas and Valvaline Durablend 5w30 (have a cap on it). My only problem at the moment is the cruise control only works half the time and when it does work, it shuts itself off about every 5 miles.

    Thanks for the info about the driveline lag/shudder/thump.... My happens on deceleration - more when the air conditioner is on and the compressor kicks on and off (sounds weird but true). It almost feels like it is downshifting when coasting but it is a manual transmission.

    This is my 3rd ranger and I love them - I just wouldn't buy one with a 4 cyl - my first one had a 4 in it and it was terrible, 2 rebuilds in first 4 years but the dealer did good by me on trade in when I produced the 2 inch thick folder full of repair orders, etc. - guess he felt bad - so I bought my second (XLT 4x4) from him.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    Thanks for the input, Harleyrider.

    I am a four-time Ranger owner, myself. The first was an used 85 plain-jane 4 cyl, 5 speed. Drove it 85,000 miles with no problems but was seriously lacking in power.

    I replaced the 85 with a 92 4X4 with the 2.9 and a 5 speed. Still not enough power but a good truck. It was stolen and I relocated to the South so I replaced it with a 92 4x2 with a 3.0 5 speed. It has 100k miles on it and it looks and drives like new. It is for sale now.

    Now I am back in Minneapolis so I bought the 01 4X4 super cab. The drivers door kind of creaked a bit but I adjusted the striker on the latch and now it is quiet as a mouse. The only other issue is the gas gauge that drops like a rock but that has been discussed before.

    With normal care and maintenance, Rangers provide a lot of truck for the buck.
  • rdve80rdve80 Member Posts: 139
    My 2002 Ranger has a very loud and high pitch whistle above 65mph somewhere around the windshield. It seems to occur at slightly lower speeds if there is a cross wind present. This has only showed up in the last 2 months, prior 8 months was fine. The dealer is unwilling to look at it unless I bring it in and can demonstrate the noise in a test drive. Anyone have any clues. Switching the heater/AC controls from fresh intake to recirc. doesn't make a difference. And it's not the wiper blades either.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    As has been documented before, the fuel gauge on many 01 Rangers is worthless. They will show empty when there is 5 or 6 gallons left in the tank. There is a TSB that calls for replacement of the fuel pump and sending unit.

    My question is, has anyone had this done and did it solve the problem?
  • slorenzenslorenzen Member Posts: 694
    try putting some duct tape around the windshield(over the gasket they use) and see it it goes away. I had a similar problem on a Safari van about a year after having the windshield replaced. It was more noticable in warm weather. The gasket set up a vibration against the frame at the top. Once I located the problem, the glass shop re-installed with a slightly different gasket.
  • wrrwrr Member Posts: 3
    2001 4.0L 5spauto 4x4 Off-Road SC:

    -Gas gauge never worked right, even after sending unit and gauge replaced (TSB issued later for revised sending unit).

    -Horn quit working after driving through a large puddle. Horn assembly replaced under warranty.

    -Illumination for cruise control buttons failed, replaced under warranty.

    -Infamous timing chain rattle above 2500rpm. Never fixed.

    -Metal shavings found in transmission while trying to diagnose possible torque converter problem. Transmission assembly from converter back replaced. Problem not fixed.

    -Electronic 4x4 shift on fly module dies, replaced under warranty.

    -At idle with warm motor, truck would surge, felt like you were bumped by a car behind you. In shop 4 times, reprogram PCM 2x, replace entire transmission. Last fix replaced MAF assembly. Uncertain about fix because

    -2001 bought back by FoMoCo as vehicle had spent 35 days in the shop in less than 11 months of ownership. Replaced with

    -2002 4.0L 5spauto 4x4 Off-Road SCab (this time with MP3 stereo!)

    -Timing chain rattle present again. TSB issued to replace cam chain tensioners. 3 days in shop. Noise persists (haven't bothered to take it back yet).

    -MP3 stereo eats a cd and dies. Replacement radio DOA. Replacement for the replacement overheats right off the bat, service manager won't even leave it installed. 3rd replacement still working.

    -Condensation appears between layers of windshield, like little fingers growing from edge inwards. Dealer claims windshield dirty, cleans windshield. This does nothing. Need to ask for windshield replacement next trip in.

    -Summertime 3000 mile road trip with AC running. Spark knock going up small hills. Run 91/93 octane, no knock. Use 93 entire trip, including through mountains of Colorado (where 95% of all small trucks are Tacomas, for some reason...), achieve 23mpg after 4wheeling and driving through mountain passes. Upon return, reprogram PCM to deal with spark knock. Knock persists with 87 octane, using 89 till I take it back. Mileage returns to 17-18.

    Conclusions: The Ranger is a nice truck if you get one with no problems. The 4.0L SOHC motor does not seem to be as reliable as the OHV motor it replaced, and its longevity yet to be known, but it is more than adequate to move the truck nicely. The late model trucks have the front hubs locked full time, and the hubs cannot be swapped for Warn manuals after 2001. Electronic 4x4 is unreliable, and manual tcase only offered on manual transmission FX4 package. Some minor squeaks and rattles that appear in cold weather. Make sure you buy from a dealer you can work with that has a service department you can trust, and test drive the truck you're going to buy, not one like it.

    Tomorrow I visit the Toyota dealership to test drive a Tacoma to compare it.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Wow.

    You've had trouble behind trouble.

    Makes me feel better about keeping my 94 4L and not buying a 2002 4L this summer with the $2,500 rebate and X-Plan pricing.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I feel bad for you dude. I thought I had problems with my 2000 pushrod shaker motor !! I have a vibration since new, but NOT noticeable on the test drive unfortunately, (narrowed down to torque converter) which Ford has never fixed. I suspect a lot of the early 5 speed autos have this problem, from what I can glean from online testimonials. I don't even care anymore. I am sick (literally) of the Blue Oval (LOL!) dealer; I don't even want them to touch my truck anymore. I can't WAIT to unload this truck. I plan to sell it about 30-60 days prior to warranty expiration (sometime this next summer). I will buy a Tundra (Taco's ride and seats are too punishing, IMHO, from my own test drives.) The Taco drivetrain, though, for day to daay "civility" has the Ranger beat by a LOOOOONNNNNG country mile...in my humble contrite opinion. It's a shame; a decent design, but lousy quality control and assembly quality, is what has killed my enthusiasm for Ford products. All the rebates in the world won't make me ever buy another one; it is a false economy. Toyota is essentially an American truck anyways these days, so, I'll be glad to buy one and support an American assembly worker in California. Good luck.
  • wrrwrr Member Posts: 3
    bolivar: You're probably right. I bought the 2001 but kept my 1993 regular cab 2.3L (multicar insurance discount). The old truck has 144k, and has had nothing but routine maintenance, and is still getting the same mileage as when i bought it at 17k, ~25mpg summer, 20 winter. It's one solidly built vehicle, and it was on the basis of that experience that I bought another Ranger. Of course, there are plenty of people out there not having problems with their newer Rangers.

    frey44: I gave up on the selling dealer of my 2001 after the write up guys and the service manager started blowing smoke up my [non-permissible content removed] and treating me like an idiot (gas gauge reads empty when you have 7 gallons left? Oh, that's normal. WTF??) I called the Ford customer service line and did everything I could to make it clear that dealership didn't deserve a blue oval cert, and started taking the truck to another dealership, which fixed the problems the selling dealer couldn't find, and handled the buyback for me with 0 hassles. If your truck isn't getting fixed, raise holy hell until it is. We pay too much money for these trucks for Ford to not honor their warranty.

    I did visit a Toyota dealership today, and took a 2003 Tacoma 3.4L 4sp auto xtracab TRD for a spin. My supercab Ranger wins on comfort: lots more legroom up front (even more than on the DoubleCab Tacoma), the power windows/controls are laid out better, the seats are a bit more comfortable. The Ranger also feels heavier, in body panels, doors, interior trim. When it comes to what really counts, however, the Toyota wins hands down. Manual transfer case, pushbutton locking rear differential, the 3.4L feels smooth and has plenty of pep, and the 4 speed auto shifted so well I didn't notice the shift points. Without a doubt, the Ford 4.0L has more power stock. If I buy a 3.4L Tacoma, I'll probably opt for that nifty TRD supercharger. I haven't made up my mind yet. IF I decide I want to start doing some serious off-roading, the Tacoma is a lot more suited to the job. I like my 2002 Ranger. I just wish I could trust it like I trust my 1993.
  • tspiketspike Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 2wd xlt w/85k miles, 2.5 w/5spd. For the past 2 years it has vibrated at speeds of 60 to 80 mph. It feels like it's coming from the front wheels but it fades out like it's moving to the rear end. It is ALWAYS there, fading in and out non-stop. I've replaced the tires twice, all 4 wheels, front bearings rotors and brakes, front end aligned 4 times, the entire rear of the transmition and the driveshaft. It was well out of warrantee when it started to a noticeable degree. I can't afford a new vehicle at this time, but I can't stand driving it. It gets outstanding mileage (30mpg) and has had no other problems (except the dome light not wanting to turn off). PLEASE someone if you have had or heard of this problem and have ANY ideas what to do please contact me and help me keep my sanity!!!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    ...have a TSB that calls for a replacement of the driveshaft. Replace steel with an alumium driveshaft.

    If you have the 2 piece driveshaft, there is a carrier bearing in the center that might need replacing.... Since you seem to have replaced most everything else.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    Well, I just made an appointment to have the revised fuel pump assembly installed under warranty on my '01 Ranger. While not a serious flaw, having the gauge read "empty" with 7 gallons left in the tank is pretty silly.

    After this is corrected, I will not have anything else to complain about!
  • fedforesterfedforester Member Posts: 16
    Took delivery of a new 2003 ranger with a 2.3 4-cylinder, 2-wheel drive about two weeks ago and couldn't be happier. Looks like about 30 mpg in mixed driving and about the same power-feel as my old 3.0 liter (kept to 267,000 miles)probably because of modern engine plus light weight. Noticed throttle sticking on idle, making for jerky starts and acceleration in town---easily cured by setting up the idle screw on the throttle body just slightly so throttle is cracked open a bit more on idle. Otherwise not a screw out of place. Happy with Continental tires--glad to get rid of Firestones.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I have a 2000 Range that vibrates at similar speeds, but it is a 5 sp auto; I think mine is from the drivetrain (the engine dancing around in its mounts and transferring energy into the vehicle). You won't get help from Ford; they will just deny that any problem exists. I think your problem is a drivetrain resonance that is incurable. You might as a last resort try attaching some weight at various places on your exhaust system to see if it is a strange pipe-flex resonance of some sort (this has been reported on GM trucks). I am solving my Ranger vibration problem by getting a new Tundra soon. No more Fords for me...EVER.
    Good luck.
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    Frey, I know you have had vibration issues from the get-go, but I thought the new driveshaft solved that problem for you. You mentioned the engine and/or torque converter. Question for you: With the truck sitting in park, do you have vibration if you bring the engine speed up to 2500 to 3500 RPM? If the vibration is engine, torque converter, or even exhaust resonance, I would think you could duplicate that issue while sitting still.

    Another thing: When you are driving at 75 or so and experiencing the vibration, have you tried touching the brake to unlock the torque converter? Does that make a difference in the vibration?

    Vibrations can be a pain in the a## but it seems like the cause could be isolated if not fixed.
  • kcowboy12kcowboy12 Member Posts: 6
    I am new to edmunds amd am hopeing someone can help me with a question. I have read numerous messages about the aluminum drive shaft. My ranger is also making a "thunk" but not while driving or slowing down. periodicaly after starting the "thunk" will some from the passenger front--sounds like it at least. Has anyone else had this problem? could this be the drive shaft eventhough i am not moving?

    Also, what is the "TSB" i have heard people refer too?

    Thanks alot
  • wrrwrr Member Posts: 3
    Well, today my airbag light started flashing and then stayed illuminated, even after restarting. So, now I have an appointment on Monday to have them look at that, the timing chain rattle, the defective windshield, the new rotational thump that has developed in the front end of late (did my brake rotors warp again?), hmm, did I forget anything? In the meantime, I hope to survive my commute for the next 2 days without needing airbags, and in Detroit during rush on I-275, that is a hope indeed :/

    kcowboy12: I've had that happen, and I've seen it referred to on many 4x4 boards. From what I understand, it's normal on 4x4 drivetrains due to their construction and the sudden release of tension which builds up in the combination of U-joints in the drivetrain when you start up. Of course, this may all be BS, but I have seen the same explanation many times.
  • transienttransient Member Posts: 3
    Hey kcowboy12

    I can back you up on that one. I have a 2001 Edge
    4.0, ext cab, 4x4 Automatic with all the bells and whistles. And yea mine does the same thing too a "thunk", from the passenger side of the transmission. Not on a regular basis and varies on how loud it is. Mostly when it was cold in the morning. I haven't good guess on what it is either. I have been watching this post for a good year now. And this is first I've read about it.
    While I'm here I'll put my 2 cents on subjects I can relate to . I'll try to be quick.

    1 Crappy mileage from the get go . The fix, Gibson cat back exhaust. K and N Generation II KIPK kit. The Big surprise was burning mid grade fuel. With all 3 I almost get the mileage shown on the window sticker. I get 200 miles to the 3/4 tank. whoope ding dong.

    2 Steel drive shaft got one, I haven't a clue about the vibration I read about. I do hear a slow pulsing noise at a steady speeds 35 on up. Sounds like tires to me. You really have to listen to it to hear it. Can't feel it though.

    Thats almost the end ,my goofy prob is the engine shuts off by itself mostly right after a short turn in a parking lot. Fires right back up after a turn of the key. Happens once every other month sort of . Anyone one wanna figure that one out?

    Other than that, its a Champion.
  • kcowboy12kcowboy12 Member Posts: 6
    alright, thanks guys for the "thunk" answer. i have also heard that it was a motor mount that was making the noise so i really wasnt sure. And now i have another one for you guys. After i drive and get out of the truck i hear a faint hiss coming from the passenger side of the engine. sounds like something is relieving pressure. i asked a dealership about it and of course they said it was normal. what do you guys think? have you noticed this? is it normal?

    thanks again. kcowboy12
  • brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    Transient, are you really getting crappy mileage or is your gauge just screwy? I had a new fuel pump assembly put on mine under warranty that corrects the gauge. There is a TSB for it.

    I have only had my 01 4x4 a couple of weeks and I have been pleasantly surprised by the gas mileage. At first I was shocked that the gauge dropped to "E" after 175 miles. However, I could only cram about 11 gallons in it. The new pump assembly has solved the gauge inaccuracy. I am getting around 16 MPG in mixed city/freeway driving. I am no feather foot so I am pretty pleased with that. I don't think my old 2 wheel drive 3.0 litre would do much better under the same driving conditions.
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