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Comments
bobhoh->Well my 2.3l was idling a little rough, so I cleaned out the throttle body, cleaned the airbox and replaced the MAP sensor. And all this at about 110k miles. It only took about 30 minutes and 15-20 bucks. As far as the shifting, that's harder to guess a solution, but I'd start with the shifter, then the linkage, then the clutch, then the tranny. Order of price and easy access. Good luck, maybe some other owners know of a possible cause and effect on that one.
Some time ago individuals were having major problems with their xtra cab doors in cold weather (32 degrees F and below). Chevy resolved this problem with a kit from the Mfr. that replaced the weather stripping and the nylon door linkages where the two doors met.
Are you in a colder climate? I would definately address this with the dealer.
John
This is actually caused by leaving your vehicle on re-circulte after you shut off the truck after having run the A/C. When you do this and the cold, dry air stops flowing through the vent system, the plastic vents are cold enough to condense water and do. Eventually the water, after sitting in a truck on a warm day, will begin to stale.
To remedy this, the last few minutes of your trip/commute, switch your A/C system from re-circulate to fresh. When you shut the truck off, leave the system on the fresh air setting. This will allow fresh air to circulate through you vehicle and exit through the exhause vents usually located in the rear quarter panels.
Unless you are living in a high dust area, this should allow air flow through your car on a hot without detriment.
John
-Disconnect negative battery cable
-Remove the steering column cover
-locate the single key warning buzzer wire, and disconnect it
-Turn the ignition switch to the run position
-Place a 1/8 inch punch in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder. (Physically near the tip of the key inside the cylinder) Depress the punch while pulling out on the lock cylinder to remove it from the column housing.
-Install the lock cylinder by turning it to the run position and depressing the retaining pin. Insert the lock cylinder into the lock cylinder housing. Make sure the cylinder is completely seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the off position. This will permit the retaining pin to extend into the hole.
-turn the lock to ensure operation is correct in all positions
-The remainder of installation is the the reverse of removal.
I hate the factory radio's that require those two U shaped tools to remove. It took me half a day to shape some coat hangers into the correct position. But my alpine and 600 watt(tot/peak) amps are definately worth it! Later I found out most stereo and factories will lend you the Ford Tool... oh well...
By removing each injector, the shop can check visually for carbon build-up in each cylinder and piston head using a video monitor. This is probably best performed by the dealer and if it's been happening for over the last year, I would imagine that this should retroactively be considered under warranty.
I assume the engine has already had the normal computer diagnostic (which it should first if not done already). Again best done at the local dealer.
If the dealer refuses to work it under warranty, I would contact the Better Business Bureau via their web form. Resoultion with the BBB usually can be acheived within 3-4 weeks.
For working with the BBB, you can check out Obyone in the Chevy Silverado Problems. That guy has heard it all.
John
You mentioned water leaks in your subject - I have found water dripping off of my frame under the engine, and traced it to what looks like the a/c compressor - it seems to be condensation when I have the air set to "cool" on a warm day - even with the a/c off. I plan to mention next time I have service done, as I'm worried about possible future rust on the frame after many years of this.
There are quite a variety of different injector, piston, valve, and bore cleaners out there.
It wouldn't hurt to try a few different ones (not at the same time).
On my 2001 there is no option for recirculate vs. fresh air. Your explanation makes sense even still . . . the smell tends to appear only if I shut off air flow, even when parking.
I know the owners manual dictates all sorts of ways to set the air flow when parked, when driving, when driving through snow, etc., but I get this same smell whether using hot or cold settings, and I haven't really used the a/c yet. This is another item I plan to mention to my dealer, but it's not that bothersome to me . . . it fades after about ten seconds.
I would be surprised if this doesn't help the problem.
Hope that helps,
John
Thanks, David
Try popping open the hood, and listening around while someone else starts the engine. This will better pinpoint the source of the noise. Even the engine (accessories aside) itself has several parts.
In order of breathing, there is the airbox/filter, thottle body, intake manifolds, head(s), combustion chamber/rotating assembly(pistons, rods, crank), head(s) again, then exhaust manifold/headers. The heads are easily identified as the top of the engine, with spark plugs inside them. The block houses the rotating assembly, and is near the bottom, with the oil pan.
Now that some novices have a introduction, it's time to find out where that noise is coming from. On start up, it could most likely be a brake master cylinder pressuring up, or power steering doing the same. It could also be an electric fuel pump that is working double time to supply that initial load of fuel. If the noise is RPM related, then check all accesories on the belts, or listen to the engine (block/ heads).
A good trick if you can't locate the noise, is to place a long screwdriver or other solid tool on the exterior of each part, and put your ear against the end of the handle. You should feel/hear the noise best when the screwdriver is touching troubled part. BE CAREFUL NOT TO HURT YOURSELF IF THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. KEEP CLEAR OF ALL MOVING PARTS!
RxP is a great cheap octane booster with cleans carbon buildup very well. Put a bottle of this stuff in your higher milage vehicle before you fill up(so it mixes best), and you'll notice it!
zMax - That TV commercial you always see is some great stuff. 40 bucks at pep boys, and you got a bottle of fuel additive, transmission additive, oil additive, and an extra bottle for your motorcycle, lawn mower or more for your car later. This stuff really made my engine purr again after 135k miles. Idle RPM dropped about 150 revs, cruising RPM dropped from 3100 to about 2700, cold starts are almost 50% faster, and gas milage was back up to 22mpg city, 28 highway. It really works well,and has made my engine a smooth performer once again. zMax also is great for those performance enthusiasts. You can bake your all your metal engine parts in zmax to help it absorb and keep any wear and tear or carbon build up on anything you build. Really did notice when I built and torn down a old '67 289ci V8.
There are also plenty of valve, and injector cleaners, but none have really stuck in my mind as being outstanding.
I've tried duralube and slick50, and these had similar effects, just not as great or long lasting.
The way I look at it, spend an extra 20-30 bucks a year to ensure your engine is clean and sound.
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Seriously, though while replacing a starter while my friend was listening to the radio in the cab, I personally connected the circuit between a hot lead and the engine head with my rachet. My arm hurt for a week. I know most screw drivers have wood or plastic handles but wear some insulative gloves with the above procedure. It will only help to keep your head and your car's 12v DC seperated.
John
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If you read the Edmunds review you'll see in the "Cons" of the reviews and info section, even the reviewers are a little leary.
Contact your service rep and ask them if this is something you should be worried about. If you you don't like their answer, contact another dealer, local mechanic, friend etc to substantiate what the first dealer told you.
If all else fails, on your next Oil change/tune at the dealer have them inspect the tranny and point out you noticed the sticker. Ask them what the TSB is and what problems does it fix. If you think you have that problem, ask them to perform it.
John
1) Do it if you are fearful for safety reasons.
2) If not 1 above, do it after a while before it times out, plus you'd get your fluid refreshed for free in the process!
Anyway, the body is in excellent shape except for the bottom of the tailgate which is rusting where the skin is bent back, inside the tailgate. I took it in and the dealer said there was nothing they could do except they could replace it if I want to spend over $700. They guy was nice enough to tell me this is a problem even with Rangers that are 2-3 years old so I strongly suggest you check yours and at the slightest sign of rust....GET IT FIX!
For those of you who have this problem but are out of warranty luck.....are there enough of us to make a strong statement for an exception to the warranty?
And try putting some anti rust solvent (called POR something?) into the tailgate.
I do this to all my cars and trucks, for my family too. You can't tell where, but it's added protection that it won't rust when the water doesn't get trapped.
Seriously though drilling a small hole on the underside of the body for water drain is a good idea. I would also sand the hole with some fine grit paper and prime the under side.
Are you in a colder climate where they salt the roads or near a coastal city near the salt air/water? This will only contribute to your problem. I would seek out a good body shop and bite the bullet to stop the rust in it's tracks before it gets to something like the frame.
John
Hopefully it's only surface/flash rust. Probably from the paint wearing off by friction. There are several products out there that strip or dissolve this rust, but if it's deep you may not want to dissolve it. But go to most auto parts store or HomeDepot or Lowes and get some thick rust protector. Clean up the rust that's there, make sure no moisture is left inside a body/gate panel, and then cover up the exposed metal with the rust prevention compound.
5spd auto Trans> Since that is a new automatic, I bet Ford wants the dealers to return random one's so they can see how it's holding up under consumer use and abuse. That would make sense on the random TSB(Technical service bulliten) sticker issue. I'm glad Ford's being proactive, and it doesn't mean there is anything wrong with it. Just that Ford wants to see why it needs repair, if it ever does. My preference will always be the manuals though... my girlfriend says only so she isn't able to drive my vehicles!
LOL
Sounds like that TSB is going to cost them some bucks in the Serive wallet! They must really want to build on that 5spd design; it could be they are seeking to adapt the 5spd Auto to other makes and models and are using the Ranger as a test bed. That would save them some R&D money in the long run.
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has decided to proceed with an investigation of more than 800,000 Ford trucks after dozens of owners said they lost steering control. At least 50 owners of 1999 and 2000 Super Duty F-Series pickups have complained about a fracture in the steering gear sector shaft, which makes the front wheels turn when the driver moves the steering wheel. At least 41 crashes and 13 injuries have been reported to Ford and NHTSA.
hoo-boy!
50 owners complained. making that 0.005 percent of the 1999-2000 trucks. (that's 5 thousands of one percent of vehicles sold)
41 crashes REPORTED(No evidence this steering wheel fracture was the cause found) and that is 4.1 thousandths of one percent of vehicles sold)
So don't get alarmed by this scare tactic post. I'm not discounting any possible issues with the steering gear shaft, just stating the actual percent of vehicles.
But here's a possiblity, a front end collision could provide enough stress to front end parts. And I we all know the steering wheel, and any shafts and gears in between is connected to the front wheels. So maybe this is an effect, not the cause?
The check engine light came on at 33,500 miles, and the engine had to be replaced. I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem. Mechanic told me it was due to compression loss in one of the cylinders.
I don't see that combo offered, either. The strongest towing Ranger would be a 4.0L, 2wd Reg Cab with 5-speed auto and LS 3:55 rear end. Don't see that combo as being available to order, either....although the wonderful advertised 6070 lb. max tow rating would dictate this model. Whussup?
Any help here would be appreciated.
John
IS THE LIGHT SUPPOSED TO TURN OFF AS SOON AS THE DOOR IS CLOSED???
IF YES:
Try hitting the door ajar switch with your finger a couple of times and see if you are getting some intermittent contact (I assume on your driver side?).
IF NO:
Then I assume you close your door and the light is supposed to stay on for a few seconds then turn off but it doesn't turn off. I would look to the timer relay switch that controls the light. Your local dealer should be able to help you identify the part/relay that controls this and help you locate it under the dash.
Yes, you have to go with the Edge for a 4.0l reg cab, 5speed man, flareside. but you do get 3.73's not 3.55's. All this for 16,710 MSRP is a pretty slick deal. The edge package is really good because of all the equipment it offers standard. Like fog lights, new hood and grill, tach, A/C, and the monochromatic styling. Plus the suspension is upgraded practically like the 4x4.
ozziem->There is usually a nut that secures the door ajar switch, if that's the problem, that can be adjusted to limit or improve the travel of the button. It could be moving too far, or not enough.
Wyncote--->On my 93 2.3l, the power band really has it's grunt above 3200, althought this is with aftermarket exhaust and modified intake. and a little throttle body work. But there should be adequate power at about 2750 or above. So I'd say make sure you shift to keep the RPM's above that, (and definately below the red line). Maybe run some rxp or zmax through to clear any deposits in the combustion chamber. I don't believe this is common, except in the 3.0l, but maybe other 2000 ranger owners have some ideas...
Maybe some of you can help me out.
I am in the market for a new truck. I live in Massachusetts, and get medium heavy snow, but not enough to warrant 4X4 particularly. I am wondering if I can get the Ranger or Tacoma with 2 full doors, and 2 "monkey doors" or "doggy doors" with the extended cab, a decent 6 cylinder motor, regular (full) bed (what are measurements anyhow?), limited slip locking rear diff., decent (15") tires and alloys, 3.55 or 3.73 gears would be fine. If I use it in winter (for skiing in Vermont), I'll just use chains and cinder blocks for traction. If it is a little high, all the better for the mild off roading I plan to do.
Where do I begin, what do I look for, and what would this cost? Should I go new? Or am I better off getting a 99 or 00? Thanks in advance.
P.S. Please be concise and keep "opinions" to a minimum.
The Tacoma XtraCabs don't have the auxillary doors. You can get a Double Cab but then you have a 5' bed.
The Tacoma PreRunner with the TRD package gives you a 4 wheel drive suspension without the 4 wheel drive. The TRD will give you a Rear Diff Locker. The Locker is for low speeds only and is really only good for the Sticks and not necessary for streets with snow on them.
Ford will give you the XtraCab doggie doors (never heard that one before but I'm going with it) and a limited slip I believe but you may want to confirm it is a Limited Slip Differential and not a locking diff. Big difference. If you "think" you can afford the Tacoma, you can afford to look at the NEW 4X4 Ranger.
Good Luck,
John
Engine Light
Check the gas cap an or replace it. Newer cars check the back pressure on the cap and this is often only to the headache and dismay of Ranger owners. If not that, you can take it to a Ford Dealer and they should be able to tell you what code the engine is showing is failing. Our 91 Pontiac Sunbird had a failed O2 sensor....a $2.00 part. If nothing else, call the Ford dealer and ask them what inexpensive stuff would set it off and replace those.
Excel Lag
The hesitation you describe sound like you need a tune-up and and your injectors cleaned to me. Any time I get exceleration lag, I always investigate the intake of the engine first. 9 out of 10 this will do it.
Kick Back
Is this by any chance an Auto? A couple of things come to mind. Check the drive shaft and the u-joints and the read diff. Change the diff fluid, make sure the joints are ok and lubed and that the drive shaft is in good condition. If they're ok, you'll to have to investigate the tranny. An expensive process (buying a new one is usually cheaper).
Leaky Roof
Ahh...these can be hard to trace down. My suggestion would be to grab that tube of silicon and check the back window. Also check the front window since water could get up under the frame of the window, into the double walled roof, and subsequently down the back of the headliner.
Also check the Maintenance Section on Edmunds TownHall. Lots 'O' Info there.
Cheers,
John
Check engine light is tricky and sensitive item. My only comes on if I stall myself (my bad) or only on start up. So I know it's working, just never had any problem. I do replace the sensors at recommended intervals. Which to date has only been airflow sensor and 02, which I did only to improve my fuel economy.
Might want to consider fuel filters too, that can cause the acceleration lag. Avoid the discount gas, it's usually a drop in octane and sometimes mixed with an cheap additives.
thanks