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Comments
gas gauge, I try to fill up at 3/4 empty tank. Its always 13 gallons to fill. And I am bad, I try to cram in as much as possible. But 200 miles at 13 gallons, 200 divide by 13 gallons 15.3 miles per gallon. Not bad for a truck , but it was worse. I drive normal most of the time, But I'm not afraid to hammer it at times either. ;-) But Before the modifications. I was getting average 12 mpg babying it. Full size truck mileage on a mini truck , thats what get me I think.
just curious what you all use, and have you noticed a difference in one kind from another
Another tip: Never fill buy gas if the station just had it's tanks refilled. This means that the contents of the tanks are mixed up, and that includes and silt or other garbage that may have found it's way into the tanks. This is sure to hurt fuel filters, injectors and the like. I had to constantly clear out the jets on my old motorcycle until I figured the above out.
How much will a cover cost?
Do the math, see how long/how many miles it will take to just recover the cost of the car cover.
You (and I) own a truck. It's a brick on wheels. It gets terrible gas milage. Live with it or trade it.
That's what I'm ASKING. If I already knew the answer to that, I'd know whether or not to buy the cover already )
<<You (and I) own a truck. It's a brick on wheels. It gets terrible gas milage. Live with it or trade it.>>
Or find ways to improve the mileage - which was the reason for my post
I'm not sure about this.
Several years ago Consumer Reports looked at the various configurations of pickup trucks.
Opening/taking the tailgate out: This actually hurt milage. Their explaination was that the tailgate in place and 'up' forced the air flow up and over the truck more, giving better milage.
They tested a cab-height topper: There was no measurable difference in milage. They thought any better air flow was probably cancelled out by the additional weight of the topper.
One additional thing about tailgate down or taken out. The tailgate is an intergal part of the bed structure. If it is not up, the sides will flex and, over time, probably bend inwards, possibly making it impossible to get the tailgate closed easily.
rangertime, I believe the earlier SOHV 4.0l's had a cam tensioner issues, which could be the cause of your engine noise. It could also be the oil dipstick coming into contact with the crank. See WWW.NHTSA.GOV for info on TSB (Technical service bulletins), and also see your local dealership for advice on servicing it(it may even be under an extended warranty, as I think it was a fairly common issue, but don't quote me on that)
pinetted, Can you set the parking brake, or have someone stand on the brakes while you check for the source of the vacuum leak? That may or may not be the full reason for your 4WD disengaging, but it definitely is a good place to start checking.
With much complaining, people have told stories of Ford replacing these motors. And several of the replacements soon developed the same noise. Ford dealers all probably know of this problem, but there seems to not be a lot of support for a fix. And there does not seem to 'be' a fix. Ford also seems to say that the noise is 'normal' and will not effect the performance of the truck. Probably the worse thing would be resale value, if a future purchaser heard this noise before buying. People write of driving the truck for lots of miles, with this noise, and no other problems with the motor.
2)Dome lite/door ajar. Another well known problem with these years. The switch in the door needs to be replaced. A lot of people WD40 it, but I think Ford may have a better made switch you will get from parts, so I would recommend replacing them. Replace both doors. And, the switch is inside the doors, not in the door frame. The door panel has to be removed to get to the switch.
Article No:
01-19-7
10/01/01
^ ENGINE - 4.0L OHV - CARBON KNOCK ON ACCELERATION
^ NOISE - CARBON KNOCK ON ACCELERATION - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4.0L OHV ENGINE ONLY
FORD:
1990-1997 AEROSTAR
1990-2000 EXPLORER, RANGER
ISSUE
Some vehicles equipped with the 4.0L OHV engine may exhibit an engine noise which may be perceived by the customer as a piston/connecting rod bearing knock. This carbon knock is heard only under load during the drive cycle. Carbon knock is a customer drive duty-cycle phenomenon that cannot be repaired with an engine exchange. This may be caused by carbon build-up within the combustion chamber.
ACTION
Verify condition. If normal diagnostics fail to correct the condition, de-carbon the combustion chamber to help quiet the carbon knock noise. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Use Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner PM-3.
2. Carbon removal:
a. Disconnect canister purge line from throttle body.
b. Attach a vacuum line to the canister purge port.
c. At hot engine idle, allow the engine to ingest 1/2 to 2/3 of a can of Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner. Use caution not to ingest too quickly due to potential hydro-lock issues.
d Shut engine off and allow it to soak for one hour.
e. Start engine, allow engine to ingest the remainder of the Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Gleaner.
f. Remove vacuum line and re-install canister purge line.
g. Road test vehicle at 3500 RPM for 2-3 miles.
h. Repeat above procedure two times for a total of three times.
i. Change oil and filter.
3. Review the customers' driving habits. The recommended drive cycle should include daily periods of engine operation above 3,000 RPM, such as a brisk acceleration from a stop position. This will break/burn the carbon off the piston head.
4. Use regular unleaded fuel, 87 Octane. Mid-grade and Premium fuels may increase the probability of carbon buildup, leading to a knock noise.
PARTS BLOCK
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
011907A Remove Carbon From 1.6 Hrs.
Combustion Chamber
(Includes Time To Perform
Procedure A Total Of
Three Times)
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
6108 42
Leaf Springs - Vehicle Sits Low In Rear
Article No.
00-10-6
05/15/00
SUSPENSION - VEHICLE SITS LOW IN REAR
FORD:
1998-2000 RANGER
This TSB is being republished in its entirety to add a Note to clarify the parts application.
ISSUE
Some vehicles may appear to be low in the rear. This may be caused by the rear springs.
ACTION
Replace the existing rear springs with revised springs. The revised springs provide a higher ride height at curb and reduce the possibility of the rear being too low. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Verify that vehicle is low in the rear by measuring the ride height. To measure ride height, park truck on a known flat ground with no load in box.
a. For 4X2: Measure from the top of the axle to the bottom of the frame in the area near the middle of the jounce bumper. The rear height for 4X2 should be at a minimum 170 mm (Figure 1).
b. For 4X4: Measure from the top of the spring spacer bar to the bottom of the frame in the area near the middle of the jounce bumper. The rear height for 4X4 should be at a minimum of 156 mm (Figure 1).
2. If the vehicle is below the minimum specifications noted, remove existing rear springs and replace them with revised springs. Refer to the appropriate Ranger Workshop Manual for replacement procedures.
NOTE : FINAL SPRING BUSHING TORQUE MUST BE PERFORMED WITH CURB WEIGHT ON THE VEHICLE. IF THIS IS NOT PERFORMED, THE VEHICLE MAY LOSE RIDE HEIGHT AFTER LOADING/UNLOADING.
NOTE : REFER TO THE VEHICLE CERTIFICATION LABEL AND THE PARTS CATALOG TO DETERMINE THE CORRECT SPRING TO INSTALL. IF THE VEHICLE CURRENTLY HAS A "-K" LEVEL SPRING, REPLACE IT WITH A "-KA" LEVEL SPRING. IF THE VEHICLE CURRENTLY HAS A "-C" LEVEL SPRING, REPLACE IT WITH A "-CA" LEVEL SPRING.
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 99-22-1
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
Article No.
01-9-4
05/14/01
^ DRIVEABILITY - IDLE DIPS BELOW 450 RPM -
WHEN TURNING OR ON DECELERATION - WITH
OVER 3/4 TANK OF FUEL IN TANK
^ DRIVEABILITY - STALL - WHEN TURNING OR ON
DECELERATION - WITH OVER 3/4 TANK OF FUEL IN TANK
FORD:
2000 RANGER
ISSUE
Some vehicles may exhibit a stall or idle dip (below 450 rpm) during deceleration or while turning that will only occur with a fuel tank level of 3/4 or greater. Generally the stall occurs with no Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) present. This may be caused by a restriction at the "Y" connection in the rear fuel vapor line.
ACTION
To diagnose, disconnect the Vapor Management Valve (VMV) electrically (for test purposes only). If there is no change in the symptom, continue normal diagnostics by referring to Symptom Chart 1 in the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Workshop Manual. If the condition is resolved by disconnecting the VMV, reconnect the VMV and replace the rear fuel vapor line. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. To access the rear fuel vapor line, remove the fuel tank. Refer to the 2000 Ranger Workshop Manual, Section 310-01.
2. Disconnect the fuel vapor line from the charcoal canister.
3. Remove the two (2) rear retaining clips from the frame rail. Remove the vapor line from the front two (2) retaining clips (leaving the clips in the rail).
4. Disconnect the fuel vapor line at the front disconnect (near the fuel filter).
5. Replace the fuel vapor line.
6. Reconnect the fuel vapor line in the front and rear.
7. Reinstall fuel tank. Refer to the Workshop Manual, Section 310-01.
Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
010904A Replace Rear Fuel Vapor 1.4 Hrs.
Line (This Includes Time
To Remove And Install
Fuel Tank)
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
9G291 17
OASIS CODES: 607000, 607700
Engine Coolant - Propylene Glycol Recommendations
Article No.
01-23-6
11/26/01
^ ENGINE COOLANT - PROPYLENE GLYCOL - FORD
MOTOR COMPANY POSITION ON ENGINE
COOLANTS MADE FROM PROPYLENE GLYCOL
^ ENGINE COOLANT - PROPYLENE
GLYCOL-BASED - FORD MOTOR COMPANY
POSITION ON PROPYLENE GLYCOL-BASED
ENGINE COOLANTS
FORD:
1989-1993 FESTIVA
1989-1994 TEMPO
1989-1997 PROBE, THUNDERBIRD
1989-2002 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT, MUSTANG, TAURUS
1994-1997 ASPIRE
1995-2000 CONTOUR
2000-2002 FOCUS
2002 THUNDERBIRD
1989-1990 BRONCO II
1989-1996 BRONCO
1989-1997 AEROSTAR, F SUPER DUTY
1989-2002 ECONOLINE, F-150, RANGER
1991-2002 EXPLORER
1995-2002 WINDSTAR
1997-2002 EXPEDITION
1999-2002 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
2000-2002 EXCURSION
2001-2002 ESCAPE, EXPLORER SPORT TRAC, EXPLORER SPORT
2000-2002 F-650, F-750
LINCOLN:
1989-1992 MARK VII
1989-2002 CONTINENTAL, TOWN CAR
1993-1998 MARK VIII
2000-2002 LS
1998-2002 NAVIGATOR
2002 BLACKWOOD
MERCURY:
1989-1994 TOPAZ
1989-1997 COUGAR
1989-2002 GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE
1991-1994 CAPRI
1991-1999 TRACER
1995-2000 MYSTIQUE
1999-2002 COUGAR
1993-2002 VILLAGER
1997-2002 MOUNTAINEER
MERKUR:
1989 SCORPIO, XR4TI
This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year coverage.
ISSUE
This TSB article describes Ford Motor Company's position on the use of propylene glycol-based engine coolants.
ACTION
Ford Motor Company does not recommend nor endorse the use of engine coolants made with propylene glycol in Ford vehicles. Ford Motor Company currently recommends the use of ethylene glycol-based engine coolants.
Published information suggests that engine coolants made with propylene glycol may provide engine cooling performance equivalent to engine coolants made with ethylene glycol. However, different brands of engine coolant provide varying corrosion protection for the cooling system. Ford does not have performance data for the multitude of engine coolants available in the aftermarket and therefore cannot recommend the use of any coolant except those sold by Ford Customer Service Division. Consult the vehicle's Owner's Guide to determine the appropriate Ford Customer Service Division coolant for the vehicle.
Furthermore, claims of toxicological and environmental advantages of propylene glycol over ethylene glycol may be misleading. When significant new information is developed, Ford will review this policy.
Ford Motor Company specifications recommend that vehicles be maintained using certain ethylene glycol-based engine coolants. Those specifications do not refer to engine coolants made with propylene glycol. Although the Ford New Vehicle Limited Warranty is not automatically voided upon the use of a coolant made with propylene glycol, if such use results in damage to the vehicle or its components, the cost of repairing the damage would not be covered by the Ford New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
SUPERSEDES: 96-16-4
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 402000
Copyright © 2002 ALLDATA LLC
Terms of Use
First, I've had the slip-yoke problem where the truck would thump while stopping or pulling away from a stop. Then I'd grease the slip-yoke (on rear drive shaft) and thump would go away.
Now about 3000 miles ago, I started getting a vibration at 70-75 miles per hour (overdrive on). The kind that shakes the mirrors so you can't see who's behind you. Now the shaking is not constant -- it shakes for 2 seconds then stops for 2 seconds then shakes for 2 seconds, etc.
I thought maybe it was the engine, so I noted the RPMs at 75 mph. Then I slowed down and took overdrive off and got the same engine RPMs but at a slower mph speed. No vibration, so the engine is ok, right?
Ok, I suspect the driveshaft since everyone suggests getting the aluminum one (I have the original rusted steel shaft). But my question -- is there an aluminum shaft for the regular cab? I've seen talk of it for the extended cab.
also, the egr valve needs replacing. what exactly is its purpose and how hard is it to change? thanks!
The MAF is in the big black tube between the air cleaner and the intake. It's also got wires to it. It has 2 screws on the top, Torx screws with a security feature - a little knob in the middle so you can't use a regular Torx driver on it. You can buy a special driver for the screw, use vise grips on the screw heads, or I used a Dremel drill to remove most of the knob. Then you can pull out the MAF sensor. It is a little plastic box with a hole and in the hole are 2 very fine and FRAGILE wires. Buy electrical cleaner to spray these wires. Do not use carb cleaner. DO NOT TOUCH THEM WITH ANYTHING. Cleaner spray should clean them. Replace. If your check engine light is on, remove the negative battery cable for a few minutes to reset the computer. If a dirty MAF was setting teh check engine light, this might correct it. And give you better drivability and milage also.
Don't know about the EGR valve. I've got a 1994 4L and I'm not sure if I've ever seem one. Are you sure your motor has one? A lot of these are replaced when it's something else causing problems.....
You should also check your rear brakes for metal on metal contact, worn out springs or drums, etc.
Usually more than a back-yard mechanic can do.
Have you abused the truck? Spinning the tires or sliding the rear tires into a curb? Overloading the truck?
If the noise has only been there a short time,I wouldn't think you would have ruined the axles themselves. Plus, bearings usually only go out one side at a time.
I think they are shafting you. Unless you have abused the truck or run it a while with bad bearing (hearing the noise), I don't think you wouuld have ruined the axles. New bearings should be all you needed.
If the truck has been abused, or water gotten into the rear end, or a leak of the rear end grease, then bearings, axles, and the entire differential could be ruined. In this case, the repair place would be right.
I would pay the $130 in labor, have the axles removed, and get to the junkyard for an entire rear axle.
I brought it to my mechanic and he said it sounded like the bearings going out and he quieted the noise by changing the tranny fluid to motor oil. It helped alot but it is slowly getting worse. Has anybody else ever had this problem and how much was it to fix. Let me know.
Thanks
Chris