Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

brucelinc · December 2002

I do not think it is the nature of the beast to have obvious uneven wear if you are rotating every 3000 miles. That is assuming the tire pressure is kept to at least 30 PSI and the truck isn't pushed extremely hard through corners.

I bought a used '01 4X4 recently with 13,000 miles and the previous owner told me that he had never rotated the tires. I inspected them very closely and if I ran my hand over the tread I could feel some very minor "chop" on the outside tread. I rotated them and have driven about 2500 miles since the rotation. The tires from the back (now on the front) look and feel perfect.

I plan to rotate (backs to front and fronts crossed to the rear) every 5000 miles. It sounds like the dealer is trying to take care of you since they swapped to the Pirellis.

crispyfries · December 2002

hey, i bought a 99 4x4 4.0 auto ext-cab last april from a single owner who was meticulous w/ maintenance. btw, i really like my truck,...but, it vibrates too at high rpm = betw ~67-71 mph. otherwise it's fine. i rotated the tires, got them aligned, and it still vibrates. it's not a huge vibration, so i've settled w/ dealing w/ it until i get new meats and shocks, then, if it still vibrates, i will have the drive shaft tested for balance and have it balanced if necessary. i've noticed that it already has a couple strategically-placed round counterweights welded to it, so i'm suspecting this as the root of the vibration problem big time. so, who knows more about the aluminum shaft? that could also be an option. cost? thanks in advance for the info. this board kicks culo.

mytidawg · December 2002

Greetings all you proud Ford owners!

Seems I'm having some problems with my 1996 Ford Ranger...it will not go into 4 wheel drive LOW.....i can click the dial on the dash over to low 4wd BUT the dash light only says 4wd high......then if and when it finally does go into low 4wd then it will not go out back into 2 wd

wondering if anyone has had similar promlems and what can it be?

Vince
pls email me at vince@falconecoins.com

mrsmisha · December 2002

Sorry to get you guys confused about a vibration at upper speeds. Thanks frey44 for getting off the subject I initially wrote about, transmission problems. And that doesn't include a vibration at upper speeds. The shutter that was mentioned in my original posting about my '99 3.0l ranger happened in reverse backing up AT IDLE. If you can give me any input about the ranger auto trans, I'd appreciate it.

rangertime · December 2002

OK, Ive posted before about my 4.0 V-6 making a knocking sound when I first start the engine in the AM. Im one of these guys who tries to get the best of everything for my vehicles, well at least I think so. From oil,belts,plugs,gas,etc.I get good name brand parts. Well this is what Ive come up with. I have been using 91 or 89 octane in my ranger. I get the knocking noise when this gas is in my ranger. Switched to 87 octane, which the owners manual says to use, and I don't get the knocking! Why? Im happy, but why?

midnight_stang · December 2002

can lead to more carbon deposits in your combustion chamber, valves, and exhaust side of your heads. This shouldn't really explain any immediate changes, but would explain any gradual ones. It might be worth while to pick up a cleaner you can put into your fuel and try to clean up any left built up carbon...

http://www.rxp.com

rangertime · December 2002

I'll pick up some fuel additive (cleaner) and give it a try. Thanks. This started very gradually, the knocking noise, and I just had to try something. Low octane gas (87) was it.

dugie · December 2002

I just discovered this Edmund's site while checking out pricing on a new Ford -- very interesting dialogues. I'll have to re-vist from time to time.
I just posted last night to the Ranger III section #970 about my 94 Ranger w/ 241,000 mi.
(bought it new in 94) Some time you get lucky, I guess -- I'm not particularly good at maintenance
however I drive fairly easy and had just great service from this Ranger. It still looks near new, but, 10 times around the world might be pushing my luck. ....truly a GREAT truck.

ranger96 · December 2002

I Just bought a 1996 Ford Ranger XLT (base model no power locks etc). Once in a while the theft light comes on for about 10 sec while im driving and then goes off every now and then. Why is this light comming on? Is my truck equipted with a theft system? Because when the car is off the theft light never blinks. How do i fix it? Thanks

kcowboy12 · January 2003

i have 2001 ranger and have recently noticed that the auto tranny will shift from 1st to 2nd at 3000 rpms. the o/d light also began flashing. i have an appointment tomorrow for this problem. could anyone give me any heads up on this?? anyone else have this same problem in the past??

thanks again
sean

frey44 · January 2003

Common problem in Ranger 4x4's>a subtle floorboard-seatbase shake that is faily low amplitude, and especially annoying on LONGER highway drives. One possilibity IS the driveshaft (in spite of the guys on here saying Rangers are perfect: they aren't). The origin of the shake is NOT the primary balance, but the improperly machined splines by the OEM manufacturer (probably Dana or an axle maker). Another possiblility is the torque converter of the 5 speed auto, if your truck has one. My 2000 Ranger got the new aluminum shaft (for free), but it did NOT solve the shakes completely, nor did a new set of Michelins. Also, have someone check the rims, especially if alloy) for runout. Also, check alignment; also, check for shocks that have freeplay [these can cause axle bounce on the rear especially, even if only a few mm of slop is present]. My Ranger vibes solution this fall will be a new '04 Tundra. I love the Ranger otherwise, but hate to drive it over maybe 15 or 20 minutes. I will be able to sell this truck to some youg guy who will put monster tires on it, offroad it, and tear it up. He won't notice the shakes anyways> ;-) Here is a link to the TSB I had previously posted:
frey44 Sep 17, 2002 4:14pm

midnight_stang · January 2003

Especially my 2003. I had a rattle in my window seal area, and difficulty shifting from first to second while the drivetrain was cold, but I just rolled up the window all way. And after I started to get the drivetrain broken in, the shifting is now smooth as can be with my rusty manual trans driving. 3.0l is almost too much power for the little truck with 5 speed manual.

rangertime · January 2003

I have a 97 ranger 4x4 with 36,000 miles. The problem I have is when I open the passenger door and close it the "Door ajar" light comes on and stays on while the truck is running. If I turn the truck off and restart it,without opening the door, the light goes out. Any ideas on what to check??? The drivers side seems to work fine.

bolivar · January 2003

This is a well know problem for Ranger.

And, for your year I think the switch is not in the doorjam, it is inside the door. On the locking assembly. To get to it you have to remove the door panel. Replace it or clean with WD40 or electrical cleaner.

rangertime · January 2003

Thanks bolivar,you are right. I stopped by the Ford dealership and picked up a "door open warning light switch" part # XF1Z 14018 AA. Cost $9.84. They also told me to use WD-40, etc. to clean the area. I tried the WD-40 first and it seemed to work! Back to normal again. Im going to hold on to that switch, never know. Thanks again.

mrsmisha · January 2003

Have a 99 with 56000 on it and had to have both door sensors replaced. Make certain that if you have the dealer do this, they unscrew the bottom screw by the speaker. The dealer didn't and I got a new door panel out of the deal. Working fine now. Cost about 10 dollars for each and 90 dollars for labor (didn't feel like doing it myself).

mrsmisha · January 2003

Glad to here that you're going to pawn your problems with your truck onto someelse. The problem was, and I repeat myself AGAIN, the transmission!!! Had a new trans put in in july 02. No vibration anymore. How do you figure this? Guess the driveshaft is okay. Still want to know why they put plastic gears in a transmission of a 4x4? Cost? Can anyone please let me know.

frey44 · January 2003

So, that PRVES I WAS RIGHT all along: BAD TORQUE CONVERTER. Ford Motor Company denial. Thanks for confriming what I had already told you and others (with full documentation, months ago). Cheers. BTW, I will be gettig my new Toyota soon. Good luck with your Ranger with the new tranny; I hope it lasts longer than the first one.

nebula30 · February 2003

Could one of you guys tell me how to get the door panel cover off of the drivers side door of my '99 Mazda B3000. I want to clean that switch first before I go buy a replacement switch. I tried taking the 3 screws out of the door that I know of but I'm not sure how to get window crank off without breaking it or some of the fasteners I know hold that panel on....any help would be apppreciated since I'd hate to pay $90 labor for dealership to do it........thanks

rangertime · February 2003

I never got to the point of taking my door apart. The ford dealership told me to take WD-40, etc. and spray the you know what out of the door latch area. I had one of those red tubes stuck in the end of the spray nozzle and really sprayed it. It went from not working at all on the passenger door to everything working perfectly.

bolivar · February 2003

but I think I've read there is some kind of cover over the center of the window crank. You get this off and there is a screw.

steven1953 · February 2003

the tranny is not shifting right takes more rpm to go from 1st to 2nd gear.. but still works..the Over Drive lite comes on.

what can be wrong? oil is ok.

like some ideas before I take it to the shop.

Steven

midnight_stang · February 2003

When is the last time you have the filter changed in the transmission? General rule is to have them changed every 1-2 years (2 tops) to avoid a very expensive replacement.

frey44 · February 2003

A/T - Slipping Shifts/Delayed Engagements/DTC's Set
Article No.
02-13-8

07/08/02
TRANSMISSION - 4R44E - 4R55E - 5R44E - 5R55E -
LOW LINE PRESSURE READING AT WIDE OPEN
THROTTLE (WOT) - SLIPPING SHIFTS AND/OR
DELAYED ENGAGEMENTS - POSSIBLE DIAGNOSTIC
TROUBLE CODES P0732, P0733, P1762 SET -
VEHICLES BUILT BEFORE 12/1/2001

FORD:
1995-2001 EXPLORER
1995-2002 RANGER
1996-1997 AEROSTAR
1999-2002 EXPLORER SPORT
2001-2002 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC

MERCURY:
1997-2001 MOUNTAINEER

Article 02-8-2 is being republished in its entirety to update the DTC codes, build dates and to update the Service Procedure.

ISSUE

Some vehicles built prior to 12/1/2001 may exhibit the following shift and engagement conditions:
^ Low line pressure readings while in DRIVE at
WOT

^ No 2nd gear

^ No 3rd gear

^ No engine braking in Manual 1st

^ Slipping shifts and/or delayed engagements

^ DTCs P0732, P0733 or P1762 may be present

This may be caused by improper pressures controlled by the Transmission Main Control assembly.

ACTION

If the conditions described are verified, the Main Control may need to be updated to the latest level or completely replaced. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE THIS ARTICLE DOES NOT APPLY TO ANY OTHER CONDITIONS OR COMPONENTS THAT MAY CAUSE SIMILAR SYMPTOMS AND IS ONLY WRITTEN TO COVER THESE SPECIFIC CONDITIONS.

NOTE AN IN-LINE SERVICE FILTER IS NOT REQUIRED TO BE ADDED OR REPLACED FOR THIS TSB.

Verify that one or more of the following conditions exist:
^ Low line pressure while in Drive at WOT

^ Slipping/delayed shifts

^ Slipping/delayed engagements

^ No 2nd and/or No 3rd gear

^ No engine braking in Manual 1st

^ OD Band failed OFF

^ DTC P0732, P0733 or P1762 set

1. Verify that one of the conditions listed above exist with the vehicle.

2. If the condition exists, drain the transmission fluid from the pan.

3. Remove the fluid pan and fluid pan gasket, discard the gasket. Refer to Workshop Manual, In-Vehicle Service, Fluid Pan And Gasket Procedure.

4. Inspect the fluid in pan for major contamination.

a. If major contamination IS present, refer to Procedure A, to replace the Main Control Assembly.

b. If major contamination is NOT present, refer to Procedure B, to Update the Main Control Assembly.

5. After completing procedure A or B, verify the condition has been corrected.

6. Clear all DTCs.

Procedure A:

<http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV1942988%7EC34331%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP4R0H%7EN/0/77993956/80829349/80829362/80829389/34853741/34860071/34860072/34860195/42063510/94366168/94693314/94693315>
1. If major contamination is present, follow normal Workshop Manual procedures to repair internal transmission damage. If the transmission is repaired remember that the the Main Control (7A100), Fluid Pan Gasket (7A191) and Fluid Filter (7A098) must be replaced. Refer to the application chart for the correct Main Control assembly to use.

Procedure B:
CAUTION A NEW SEPARATOR PLATE 7A008 OR 7Z490 MUST BE USED WHEN INSTALLING THE SPECIAL SERVICE KIT 7M203 OR ADDITIONAL TRANSMISSION DAMAGE MAY OCCUR.

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1. To UPDATE the main control to the new level, follow the steps listed in the Service Kit 1L5Z-7M203-JA (ALL KIT CONTENTS MUST BE USED). A new separator plate (7A008 or 7Z490), upper/lower separator plate gaskets (7C155 and 7D100 used only with a 7A008 plate), fluid pan gasket (7A191), and a fluid filter (7A098) must be used. ALL NEW PARTS MUST BE USED. Refer to Parts Application Chart for parts selection.

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2. Install the Special Service Tools 307-333 and 307-334 (1 each) onto the main control (Figure 1).

3. Install a new service Separator Plate (refer to chart), make sure that the new plate has hole # 50 deleted, install the three (3) screw and tighten to 7 N.m (62 Lb-in).

4. Install a new separator plate to case gasket (7C155) if installing the 7A008 style separator plate. DO NOT INSTALL a 7C155 GASKET IF USING A 7Z490 Separator Plate.

5. Remove the special service tools.

6. Continue to follow the assembly steps as found in the assembly of sub-assembled, main control valve body.

7. Reinstall the main control by continuing to follow the Installation steps listed in the Workshop Manual, In-Vehicle Service, Fluid Pan And Gasket Procedure.

<http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV1942988%7EC34331%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP3R0H%7EN/0/77993956/80829349/80829362/80829389/34853741/34860071/34860072/34860195/42063510/94366168/94693314/94693318>

LABOR OPERATION CLAIMING CHART

<http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI%7EV1942988%7EC34331%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP3R0H%7EN/0/77993956/80829349/80829362/80829389/34853741/34860071/34860072/34860195/42063510/94366168/94693314/94693319>

Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: 02-83
SUPERSEDES: 02-8-2
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

DEALER CODING

CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
7A100 42

OASIS CODES: 501000, 502000, 503000

haspelbein · February 2003

I own a '97 Ranger 2wd with 2.3L 4-cyl engine. Last Friday, the control that directs the flow of air for the interior is stuck to the defrost position.
I can turn the switch, and the compressor and the A/C will function accordingly, but the flow of air is always directed to the windshield.

Looking at my Haynes manual, it seems that the Rangers up to '94 used blades (connected to the control by cables) to control the airflow. The manual does not give much information for models '95 and newer. I can only tell from the schematics, that the the switch seems to be electric. (But I have not idea what the expected output is supposed to be.)

Any idea where I should be able to get more information, so that I can start troubleshooting ?

Thanks a lot,
Martin

shotokanranger · February 2003

I own a 1993 Ford Ranger XLT SuperCab. I have found that when I fill the gas tank that it overfills from underneath the bed. I can't figure out what it could be because it is not coming up the fill hose. Any help would be appreiciated.

rickc5 · February 2003

It contains some sort of vegetable oils (like 3-in-1 oil) which tend to get very sticky and gummy over time, as the solvents evaporate. Use silicon spray or electrical contact cleaner to "free up" stuck door switches. Both will lubricate without getting sticky.

I use WD40 for cleaning greasy/dirty parts (like bicycle chains), but always follow up with a better lubricant once the parts have been cleaned.

mrsmisha · February 2003

Not trying to start anything, but last time I checked the responses about vibrations, you kept talking about the drive shaft, not the torque converter. Could be a slight overlook on my part, but I looked and saw nothing about posting a problem with the torque converter. Have had no problems since the third transmission, but then again, I've been driven the tires off of it and treating it like my old 1990 F250 that I got rid of for the ranger (Stupid Mistake). Maybe the prob. is fixed.

bolivar · February 2003

Yea, I know, everyone bitches about it now-a-days.

But, it frees up stuff that's sticking.

And maybe a little goop left on it is better than electrical contact cleaner, which is completely solvent and totally evaporates, leaving no lube.

And Armorall slimes up stuff. And Rain-X streaks.

What did we do before this stuff?

goldranger · February 2003

TO: frey44,

Thanks for the transmission TSB, my 2001 4.0l 5sp auto (built 11/00) 25K miles has of late developed a delayed down shift into first gear. Sometime I have come to a complete stop for a second or two and them "klunk" it shifts into first. It up shifts fine and firm. Have removed power to reset the logic circuit but it still does it. What do you think? I still have 11K miles and 14 months of warranty.
Thanks
Goldranger

rangertime · February 2003

Thanks for the info rickc5. I'll go back and clean the door switches with some PB Blaster. I heard that was a good product.

bolivar · February 2003

...it's more a heavy-duty rust-buster.

I don't know that I would use it for switch cleaning...

frey44 · February 2003

I am not expert. However, ANY tranny trouble with the Ford automatic troubles must be followed-up within the warrantly period, or you're SOL. IMHO, that "clunk" you describe is similar to a phenomenon I get in my 00 Ranger (XLT 4x4, pushrod shaker motor 4.0) with the 5 speed auto: It will clunk pretty severely when going down a hill SLOWLY and TURNING at the same time..it might be the rearend. {Are you convinced this is not an artifact of the differential's behavior, instead of the tranny ?} However, with my Ranger, it is not a "problem" as such, and never does it any other time. There are a number of Ranger trannies out there that are defective, however, or Ford would have never issued that extensive TSB in the first place. As I have said many times, I like 90% of my Ranger, but it is the 10% that I don't like that will prompt me to sell it this summer ands buy a new, shiny Tundra. At least that way, I'll get my quality Toyota dealer back and ditch this ludicrous "Blue Oval Dealer"..what a JOKE perpetrated upon humanity.

goldranger · February 2003

Frey44,

Don't think it's the differential. if i kick it into neutral before full stop no clunk. definitely think its the trans. As i said still have warranty left, so i won't baby it for sure. a total failure is much better for Ford to deal with. Thank you for the input. I read where Tundras tend to shake?? My last Toyota was a corona s/w. Still going strong at 240K when we sold it. I think that was my favorite car.

denon12345 · February 2003

Has about 6100 kilometers on it right now.

Having problem with the RPM's. When l engage the clutch the RPM's keep rising, mostly doing it in 4th to 5th. Shifting at 2500, it will climb to 3000. Doesn't do it all the time. The dealer has it right now they are having problems finding out what is wrong with it. If anyone have any ideas or had this problem before could help would be very helpful.

Also there is a whisseling noise coming from the rear-end, the dealer says that it needs to be worked in not sure that l believe then that been 1200 kilometers ago.

There is also a loud noise coming from the engine into the cabin. They are trying to figure that one out too.

If anyone can help it would be very helpful.
my email address is xfiles12345@msn.com

bolivar · February 2003

Ask the service manager to drive you around in a new pickup with same engine and tranny. If you don't hear the noise, ask why it doesn't need to be 'worked in'.

They are giving you the run-around. Very, very little on a vehicle gets quieter as it ages.

hciaffa · February 2003

I got this offanother forum some time ago and whenever someone has this problem I post it. its kind of long but it does work. I hope it helps.

Having had the above problems, like several of you, I can offer some advice. I have seen numerous posts with possible fixes, which may or may not have been successful. Well, hopefully, the following information will help all of you in the future.
First for some background. My drivers side failed which caused the dome light and the warning chime to remain on. This was fixed under warranty. A few days ago, the dome light was remaining on. Knowing what the culprit was and since the door chime wasn't going off, I knew it was the passenger side door. I first tried the standard fix...flooding the door latch with electrical contact cleaner. I'll take the time now to warn everyone, DO NOT USE WD-40. WD-40 has a tendency to gum up, when it dries, and causes problems with electronics (contacts). This did not solve the problem, so off I went to the Ford Parts counter. I purchased a replacement contact switch for $11.03 including tax. (Sorry, I don't have the part number handy but email me and I'll send it to you). The switch is nothing more then a pin switch which is activated by the latch hook when it rotates to the door open position. The switch is located on the bottom of the latch assembly inside of the door.
TO REPAIR/REPLACE THE CONTACT SWITCH:
Remove the door panel. My '95 required the removal of four screws. Two under the door pull, which is then removed by carefully prying the trim piece out of the locking tabs holding it onto the panel. One screw, holding the panel to the door, is exposed once the pull is removed and the fourth is located at the bottom of the panel (outside edge, carpeted area). Once the screws are removed, lift up the whole panel and remove it from the door. Next, carfully peel back the plastic vapor barrier, if you are careful and take your time it will peel back without tearing. Pull the barrier back far enough to provide adequate access to the door latch. Find the wire leading to the door latch. The wiring is attached to the infamous contact switch at the bottom of the latch. Remove the harness from the switch. It has a standard tabbed connector. Now grasp the switch and rotate it 90 degrees towards the outside of the door. The switch can now be removed from the bottom of the latch assembly.
The latch as I said, is a simple pin switch. The plunger (contact pin) has a tendency to stick in the switch. This may be from the door latch lube running down into it and gumming it up. Anyway, it fails to extend and break the electrical contact, hence the dome light and/or chime doesn't cancel when the door closes.
There are two courses of action once the switch is out. Clean the contact or replace it. Since I already had the new one I replaced it. However, after cleaning the old one with contact cleaner, alcohol, and then applying an electrical contact cleaner/lube, the switch functioned perfectly. This was place in the box for the replacement switch and stored for future use.
Once the new/cleaned switch is replaced (reverse of removal), functionally check the operation. If all is well, reinstall the vapor barrier (I used 3M adhesive spray to enhance the existing adhesive along the edge of the barrier), then the door panel (don't forget to line up the lock pull at the top of the panel), reinstall the screw(s) and your done.
Having done this, I can understand why the problem occurs. Flooding the latch with solvent may not properly reach the switch plunger and free it. A few minutes of very light mechanic work can possibly salvage a perfectly good switch and solve a lot of frustration
Hope this info helps!

rangerown · February 2003

I bought a 2000 4WD Supercab Ranger lastJuly with 13000 miles on it. It now has 30000 miles. During the 7 months I've had it, the fanbelt has broken twice, the driveshaft broke,and just his week the suspension control rod broke. I don't do any off-road driving. Luckily, everything but the suspension control rod was under warranty. I'm wondering if its a "lemon" vehicle. Would you bet on keeping it, or unload it while still some warranty left?

airman53 · March 2003

I bought a 1999 Ranger last Nov. It has the 3.0L, 4x4, ext. cab. It only has 51000 miles on it, and I've had several problems so far. First, the gas mileage is terrible. I know that 4x4s don't get good gas mileage, but I'm getting the mileage of an Excursion (like 10 or 11 city, 14 on the highway on a good day). I don't have a lead foot, and most of my driving is on the highway. Not only that, I have a tonneau cover on it to help with the wind resistance. Anyone have a possible solution? Second, I had the backpressure feedback sensor go bad. I took it to the dealer, and they fixed it. Third, and the most annoying, I have this really loud squeaking noise coming from the front right wheel. It sqeaks everytime I go over even the smallest of bumps. I asked some people about it, and they told me that its probably the shocks. The way that I would know that is if the shock is wet. It's not. Has anyone had a similar problem? If so, what was the solution? Thanks.

redzx3 · March 2003

Well 51000 miles is alot of miles and your not going to get much better gas mileage with a 4x4 truck then what your getting thats just part of having a truck . Maybe you just need a new car or truck .

erkkila · March 2003

I have a 2000 Mazda B3000 that pinged badly on 87 octane gas since it was new. The only solution I could find was to run it on 89 octane fall through spring and 91 or up in the summer. Just before Christmas, the check engine light came on. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the EGR valve. With our ridiculous ripoff increasing gas prices here in Canada I got fed up last week and tried 87 octane just to see what would happen. Not even the slightest hint of pinging, even with lugging the engine in fourth and fifth gears.

BTW if you are reading this airman53, it sounds like you might have a bad ball joint. I had the same squeaking over bumps that you are talking about. I was lucky in that mine was covered under warranty.

bpiper · March 2003

I have a 2001 Ranger, Ext. Cab, 4x4 Off Road, 4.0 Liter, 5 Speed Auto with 51,000 miles. I have been experiencing the annoying transmission "clunk" when starting and stopping as many of you have. Took it into the local Ford dealership for repair armed with the TSB. They were aware of this common problem. Took them 2 days to order and install. Now I have the aluminum driveshaft and the truck shifts better than it ever did. The drivetrain is truly better than it was when it was new. Cost was $270 for the driveshaft, $58 for the skid plate, and $65 for the labor. Well worth the money.

jbaril · March 2003

I just bought a black 03 Ranger XL 2.3 four banger 5-speed, w/a long bed. No bells or whistles. Only options are A/C, split bench seat w/cloth. Hope I don't have any problems, but it looks like most problems are reserved for 6 cylinder, extended cabs, XLTs.

Guess we'll see.

tniceguy1 · March 2003

I bought a used 99 Ranger Extended Cap 3.0 XLT I Have had problems with the shifting since I got it with it being hard to go into gear. I was told to pump the clutch if this helped it was the master cylinder. It did help so I took it in to have the MC replaced they did I was driving the same day and the clutch went all the way to the floor and was engaged in gear. Had it towed they said a locking ring had come off that they hadnt gotten it on right. They put it back together same day it doesnt it again. The tech says there is no retaining clip just the ring that locks into place this doesnt seem right anyone know what might be the problem??? Thanks in Advance.

frey44 · March 2003

Here is a tranny TSB. Don't konw if this will anwer your specific problem, but it may be a start:
M/T - M5OD Buzzing/Grinding Noise
Article No.
00-3-6

02/07/00
^ NOISE - "BUZZING" AND/OR "GRINDING" DURING 2-3 SHIFT - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH M5OD TRANSMISSION AND BUILT BEFORE 11/1/1999

^ TRANSMISSION - M5OD - "BUZZING" AND/OR "GRINDING" NOISE DURING 2-3 SHIFT - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH M5OD TRANSMISSION AND BUILT BEFORE 11/1/1999

FORD:
1998-2000 EXPLORER, RANGER

ISSUE
Some vehicles may exhibit a "buzzing" and/or "grinding" noise or a "notchy" feeling during the 2-3 upshift. This may be caused by the 3-4 synchronizer.

ACTION
Replace the 3-4 synchronizer assembly. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

First, verify that vehicle exhibits a buzzing/grinding/notchy feeling/sensation during 2-3 upshift and determine it your transmission serial number is greater than the serial number listed below. If the vehicle does NOT exhibit a buzzing/grinding/notchy feeling/sensation and is greater than the serial number listed on the chart below, proceed with other appropriate diagnostics for repair. Reference the appropriate Workshop Manual for assistance.
NOTE ALL TRANSMISSIONS WITH SERIAL NUMBERS GREATER THAN THE ONES LISTED BELOWARE NOT AFFECTED. USE THE CHART BELOW AND THE SAMPLE TAG INFORMATION TO ASSIST IN DETERMINING IF THIS FIX IS APPLICABLE. THE TRANSMISSION SERIAL NUMBER IS LOCATED ON THE TAG ATTACHED TO THE LEFT SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION.

TRANSMISSION SERIAL NUMBER INFORMATION

Transmission Application Tag Transmission Serial Number

2.5L I-4 4X2 F87A - AB less than 0629756
3.0L V-6 4X2 F87A - CA less than 0628220
3.0L V-6 4X4 F87A - DA less than D624514
4.0L V-6 4X2 F87A - EA less than D639401
4.0L V-6 4X4 FB7A - FA less than 0627480

1. Drain all fluid from the transmission and remove the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.

2. Disassemble the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.

3. Inspect the brass blocking rings for any damage. If they are not damaged, reuse on reassembly.

4. Replace the synchronizer. Additionally, replace brass blocking rings if necessary.

5. Reassemble the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.

6. Reinstall the transmission and fill with new fluid. Test drive to verify repair.

NOTE AFTER THE REPAIR, THE TRANSMISSION MAY FEEL STIFF, ESPECIALLY IF THE BRASS BLOCKING RINGS WERE REPLACED. THIS WILL GO AWAY AFTER DRIVING THE VEHICLE FOR SEVERAL KILOMETERS/MILES, AS THE NEW BLOCKING RINGS NEED TIME TO RESEAT AGAINST THE GEAR CONE.

PART NUMBER PART NAME

F2TZ-7124-AB Synchronizer Assembly (2.5L And 3.0L)
F2TZ-7124-CA Synchronizer Assembly (4.0L)

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
OASIS CODES: 505000

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goldranger · March 2003

Any one who has just purchased a new 2.3 Ranger may want to check the BlueOval News. They are reporting defective cyl heads on 2.3L Rangers built at both plants between 2/3/03 and 2/6/03. Check with you dealer or call Ford VIN Support @ 800-555-9601 and refer to SSI03T01. BlueOval news reports engines prone to early failure.

good luck.

frey44 · March 2003

Here is the link...

http://www.blueovalnews.com/2003/trucks/ran.defective2.3l_031503.- htm

dom55 · April 2003

I just purchased a 2003 Ranger Supercab XLT 3.0 v6 on 3/29. The steering column/wheel is not straight, it is slightly shifted to the left. That is, if I sit perfectly straight in the seat in the normal driving position, the left side of the wheel is further away from me than the right side. I got suspicious that the vehicle had some transportation damage that was fixed by the dealership. I went to a dealership close to where I work and went in the new truck lot and sat in every Ranger with an open door. I put the antennae across the wheel, and sure enough, every Ranger steering column/wheel was shifted to the left. Anyone else notice this?

midnight_stang · April 2003

I own a 2003 Regular cab edge, and will have to check that on my way home. I haven't noticed it yet, but I can see how it would bug ya.

jtc411 · April 2003

Hey guys, i am new to this forum. I have a 98 ford ranger xlt with the 2.5l 4 cylinder, with the automatic. I just bought this truck about 2 months ago, and have had a rough low idle since day one. When i went to the dealer they replaced the MAF(mass airflow sensor), put a new fuel filter in, and had full fuel service(injectors, line etc). They also cleaned the throttle body, and i brought it back again and still no luck. The truck when i stop idles down really low...then comes back up and stays normal for a little while...then idles really rough again. I am stuck, i dont know what to do...does anyone have any suggestions? they would be appreciated

Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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