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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • osageosage Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a '96 Ranger (4L V6, extended cab, auto transmission, ABS) that I purchased last year. It has run real great for me but lately it has started making a loud humming noise that comes from somewhere in front of the driver's seat. I'm not sure if it's from under the hood or the wheel area. The noise only occurs when driving slowly, usually after highway driving and then slowing down for a stop sign or parking the truck. It immediately goes away when the engine is shut off. I don't know that much about cars but I think it may have to do with the brake or master cylinder (since it's located directly in front of the driver's seat). I would like to have some ideas before taking it in to a mechanic to make his job easier and also to protect myself. Thanks a lot in advance,

    -matt

     

    p.s. the truck also has lots of miles, approaching 160k. In fact, any advice for keeping this great vehicle running far into the future would be greatly appreciated!
  • franklyfordfranklyford Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4. The Heater/AC Doors are not operating, and after doing some troubleshooting, I found a loose vacuum line in the engine compartment. This is the white line that also operates the door in the heater box behind the glove box. The problem is I cannot find the location where it hooks to???

      

    Can anyone help?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    There is a good chance it is the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). This is on the intake, on the left upper side of the motor. It is a black and silver cylinder somewhat longer than a 35mm film canister, with wires into it. It is bolted into the intake.

     

    It can be removed and cleaned, sometimes stopping this problem. It is a valve the meters air, and an electrical solenoid that moves the air. Clean it with carb cleaner, but hold it so the cleaner does not get into the electrical part of it. If you are careful, it can be removed without destroying its gasket.

     

    A dirty IAC will also cause high, low, or wandering idles. A new one is about $60 or so if you want to replace it.

     

    I would think you could put your hand on it with the truck running when it is humming, and feel it vibrating.
  • hexen71hexen71 Member Posts: 1
    they have Mitsubishi power plants
  • andyman123andyman123 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1988 Ford Ranger 2.9l V6. I have just had the starter rebuilt and now sometimes it will start fine and sometimes it will do nothing. the lights,radio and everything else comes on, but not even a click from the starter. Can someone help me?
  • hoffahoffa Member Posts: 2
    It's really loud when I rev the engine. It sounds like a whirring noise, high pitch, coming from the left side of the engine. I can't tell if it's coming from the exhaust manifold, (broken gasket?), or if its from the fan, or belt? Any suggestions?
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Re-check the attach bolts on the starter cables and the ground cable to the engine block. Load test the battery. If all that checks out, take the starter back because it wasn't rebuilt correctly.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Sounds like the IAC screaming, Play with it when you hear the noise, if it changes throw it out and buy a new one.
  • hoffahoffa Member Posts: 2
    I figured it out. Fan clutch seized up.
  • segsharonsegsharon Member Posts: 1
    My buddy owns a 2000 Ranger xlt, and the other day while he was driving there was a huge bang from the front end that actually lifted the front end of the truck off the ground. He stopped the truck got out and seen that he had a tire blowout. He then changed the tire and realized that the rim had been ripped open. The rim actually had a hole right through it.
    I was just wondering what would cause this and has anyone experienced this before.
  • rettrorettro Member Posts: 2
    My 1994 ranger 5-speed manual gave up while on the freeway Sunday. When I get it home I noticed the reservoir had gone dry (I topped it off 3 weeks ago) Also, the clutch still disengages the engine as it should, but the transmission is locked in gear.In other words, the neutral position is ineffective. When I removed the stick shift I noticed where fluid had spewed from the cover plate where the stick is attached. The rubber seal on the cover plate is torn and one of the thin metal rings was severed in one place (I don't know the proper name for these parts).
    Does anyone have an idea what I'm dealing with here? Is this a question of replacing the necessary gaskets and gromets to reform the seal, or is there likely a deeper problem.
    Can anyone help me?
    Thanks
  • noreen1noreen1 Member Posts: 1
    "Check charge" light came on on Friday, "Check engine" came on on Sunday, brought car in to be serviced on Monday. Told that anti-freeze was nearly empty, oil was overly full. Anti-freeze was leaking into oil. This is a major problem that will cost at least $1500 to fix, assuming the engine has not been ruined by this. Truck has about 70,000 miles on it. Is this a manufacturing problem? Is this something that should be covered under the 100,000 mile warranty? Does anyone have any answers for me?
  • nicholas1nicholas1 Member Posts: 1
    I went to smog Ranger & failed.OBDll code po500
    vss,replaced sensor still thru code. Now shop wants to replace CT modual (GEM)$320 part $340 labor. runs great emissions were great,is CTM likely? Also speedo doesnt work.Tech. says CT dead,no reading, he's not even sure but wants to start there! SOS need info ASAP...
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I'm confused. What went dry? Clutch or transmission? If the hydrolic clutch master cylinder fails, the clutch doesn't work any more. I would think, with the engine off, you could still pull the shifter out of gear. If you have this torn into, I would have the clutch replaced also, not just the hydrolic cylinder.

    There are rubber plugs in the top of Ranger transmissions that rot out and fluid comes out. These can just be replaced.

    If the transmission has a problem, I've read that they don't take overhauls very well because if the bearings fail, they chew up the housing itself.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Are they telling you it is a failed head gasket? Has the truck been (or ever) run hot (overheated)?

    Coolant getting into oil is a symptom of head gasket problem. Overheating an engine can cause the head gasket to fail. A failed head gasket can cause overheating. And yes, this could have ruined the head/heads from the heat and/or motor from lubrication problems with water in the oil.

    I have no idea what kind of warranty you have. I thought Ranger has only 3 year/36,000 miles overall warranty. Only thing warrantied to 100,000 miles may be some of the emission equipment and safety equipment (sear belts, etc).
    If you have an add-on after market warranty, start reading it or contact the company that issued it.
  • polgrifpolgrif Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 ranger with a 4.0 4X2 5 spd and I want to know if the F87A-CA transmission matches this truck as a replacement.
  • rettrorettro Member Posts: 2
    Sorry for the confusion. I've never had a transmission problem before, so I thought something was seriously wrong when I first saw the fluid leakage coming from the top of the shift plate. You are right about the worn out rubber plugs though...they're trashed. There is still fluid inside the transmission!
    So I guess my question can be refined a little. Apparently, the clutch fluid reservoir went dry suddenly. The shifting always becomes sluggish when the fluid level gets a bit low....thats when I know to top it off. However, this problem happened all of a sudden, without any sluggish shifter warning. So I guess I need to figure out where the "clutch fluid" went. I can't find any sign of it. I looked inside the little viewing port on the bottom edge of the bell housing....nothing came out. The clutch still disengages the engine, but the stick apparently will not change the gears. It's still stuck in 5th gear.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, if the 'clutch fluid' went away, you have a large leak at the clutch hydrolic cylinder. And probably need a new one. I don't know if they are rebuildable or not...

    I've read these are tough to replace, mainly tough to bleed the new one to get the air out. As I said in another message, if you have a significant number of miles it, I would consider doing a clutch job on it at the same time.

    I still would think you could pull it out of 5th gear when the motor is not running.... If not, there might also be transmission problems.

    Unless you have mechanical experience, tow this sucker to a shop.
  • stacey25stacey25 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2000 Ranger V6. I have ran out of gas with it 2 times this winter only because I am very bad at keeping my tank full. When your engine light comes on for low gas, it comes on just under a 1/4 tank. after that you can still go a good 50 miles on it til it's time to fill her up. but its not a good idea to do this, i know!! Hope this helps!!
  • sam26sam26 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1989 Ranger XLT 2.3 distributorless ignition system. The left hand coil (intake side) is not firing. I have reversed the coils and get the same problem. I have also replaced the ignition module and it did not fix the problem. Can anybody tell me what would cause one side not to fire and what to do to fix it.
    Thanks
  • stacey25stacey25 Member Posts: 11
    i have a 2000 ranger with white face gages. it has 68,000 miles and i am in need of a good tune up including fluid changes and filters. i am not drviving it right now because i have either 3 problems (or more) that could be wrong and i dont want to drive it around and ruin it more. 1. my transmission could be slipping 2. my tranny filter could be clogged 3. my drive shaft could have some screws loose. but then again, i've let my gas tank run dry 2 times so my fuel line could also be clogged!! anyone have any suggestions for me?? when i give it some acceleration it winds up and then has a kick to it just like the tranny is slipping. can someone please help me figure it out cause i am missing my truck. i am driving a big chevy thats nothing but a gas hog!! thanks
    oh yeah my gage lights on my dash are half out so its hard to see at night when driving. im guessing i blew a bulb and its just a pain to fix
    ok thanks
  • 351w351w Member Posts: 1
    Hello can anyone tell me what kind of signs/noises come when a rack&pinnion problem occures.. We have a 2000 Ranger 4x4 53,000 miles and am getting noises from front left side...can't tell what it is squeaks over bumps and makes noise when turn left...
  • jkunzman1jkunzman1 Member Posts: 2
    Rotor replacement on 89 4x4 Ranger. How do you get the rotor off. Auto parts store said to us a four prong removal tool to disengage the springs that hold the bearing in. There is a 5-6 sided piece of metal that looks like you should be able to screw off however there is a tongue that fits into a grove on the drive shaft so the tool is useless. On 4x4 you can not just slide off the rotor. Chiltons is of no help.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    What types of cam and/or crank signal devices does that engine have? I would check for signal there.
  • jkunzman1jkunzman1 Member Posts: 2
    Not sure what you mean?
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    On a distributorless system, there's no distributor to fire the plugs, so electromechanical parts are needed to tell the PCM where the engine is in its rotation and when to fire the ignition system. I have no idea what or where that stuff is on your 2.3 Ranger engine, so you need to pick up a shop manual or a Haynes with full wiring diagrams so you can diagnose it.
  • anibalbanibalb Member Posts: 193
    Hello all,

    I have a 99 ranger 4x4 with the 3.0L engine. It is automatic.

    The big question, does the transmission have a filter or a screen?

    I just got it back from the dealer and after they told me that they did the Flush I realized they never touched the pan. That really bothers me. The service advisor said it probably has a screen and would not need removal. Even if it had a screen wouldn't you remove the pan to clean it and replace the gasket???

    I would really appreciate help on this. Thanks
  • day1day1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 3.0 automatic. Transmission problems like you describe at 50,000 miles.
    Really made me angry. This is not a Chrysler.
    Major repair. $2000
  • day1day1 Member Posts: 4
    I need to replace some dash lights on my '99 Ranger. Is there any free advice on the web or do I need to buy a repair manual?
  • gonzo2gonzo2 Member Posts: 1
    when my truck gets hot it will not start until i let it sit for a while. when i turn the key on i don"t hear the fuel pump turn on.
  • sam26sam26 Member Posts: 2
    If anyone is interested I found the problem with my 89 Ranger! It was the timing belt. Thanks for trying to help
  • stacey25stacey25 Member Posts: 11
    hello
    i believe that the screen is the filter but YES you would dump the pan and scrape the gasket off and replace with a new one

    hope this helps
    go onto napa.com it will help you with some stuff
  • rangerguyrangerguy Member Posts: 5
    i Have a 2000 ford ranger and it has a rough idle at times worst than others . i recently hooked it to a code reader/computer and it does not say that the truck is missing any suggestions please help
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    4.0 V-6?
  • rangerguyrangerguy Member Posts: 5
    3.0 L FLEX FUEL V6
  • hutch5hutch5 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 91 ford ranger with a 2.3l that has the eight plug set up. my problem is when the truck is ilding it run fine to a point,then all of a sudden it will start to act up. the rpm's jump up and down for a few second then stop but the rpms are runnin low. then when i take off i have no power at all. feels like i lost half the power. i've took it in and they could't tell me what was for sure wrong. they said it could be a engine coolant sensor. so if anybody could help me i would really appreciate it thanx
  • russ2yallruss2yall Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 2.3 liter Ranger. Intermittent but almost always after sitting overnight or several hours the engine will not start. I hear the fuel pump running for 4 or 5 minutes, when it finally shuts off the engine starts, runs great at any speed. After starting in the morning it's usually fine for subsequent starts during the day as the fuel pump only runs a second or two then shuts off. I've changed the relays, fuel filter, pressure regulating valve. when I remove the line at the filter the pump appears to have good pressure. Any clues
  • clove_23clove_23 Member Posts: 1
    Looking for some advice/help with this one. I have a 99 Ranger XLT 3.0L 6 cyl. The engine makes this high pitched whine anywhere from 0 to around 50 mph. If you give it gas the sound usually disappears. However if you are stopped and the whining starts, it usually result in the rpms dropping so far down that it sputters out and stalls. It's been getting worse over the past 5 months to the point where it does this almost 50% of the time I'm driving it. Any ideas what it might be?

    Chris
  • russ2yallruss2yall Member Posts: 2
    this is a 1990 ranger, where was my head at??
  • dajudgedajudge Member Posts: 2
    I have gone through the replacement, now it's doing again issue as well. Can you tell me where you found the info. on the Ford recommended grease? Thanks!
  • atlgaxtatlgaxt Member Posts: 501
    I am new to posting on this board. I have a Mazda B4000 4x4 (Ranger Clone) with the 4.0 engine and 5 speed auto. Truck is just about three years old, with 56k miles. My transmission is blown. It is in the shop now, and I am looking at at least $1,500 of work. I have not been following this board, and was wondering if this is common with this unit.

    BTW - I am posting here because the Mazda Board is dead.
  • franklin1franklin1 Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE 2005 WITH THE SAME PROBLEM COLD LAP . FROM DRAFT COMING FROM DASH AND STEERING COLUMN ANY HELP ?
  • cantstopcantstop Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 ranger 4L with abs and took it to the shoop and had the roters and breaks replaced and now it acts like its on ice from 5-0mph when breaking (breaks normal when at higher speeds), took it back to get them to look at it and there was no error codes that came up and they dont know what it is and they told me they had no clue and were going to experiment on it but was going to cost me a bundle for all the extra parts and labor Im sure could you please help ?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Give it another try describing the symptoms of your problem. Your post doesn't make much sense.

    Is the ABS light on?

    Don't you only have rear brake ABS on this model?

    Are you locking up the rear brakes or do you have no brakes?

    In any case, if you didn't have this problem before, and you have this problem after a brake repair, I think that shop needs to fix it, at no cost, for you.
  • klabklab Member Posts: 1
    I'm looking for a good pickup for everyday driving. Looking at a 2000 Ranger XLT from private party. Has auto tranny.... not sure of the engine (4 or V6) - I haven't done a test drive yet & owner isn't sure which engine it has. About 70k miles.

    Is this a good DEPENDABLE truck, or am I just asking for headache? I'm not familiar with Ranger problems....please help. Are there specific costly repairs that I should look for when I test drive?

    Thanks!
    --Klab
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I drive a 1994. I've put some maintenance items into it, but the basic things, engine, transmission, rear end, etc have been fine. It is low miles, about 80,000.

    You need to find out what kind of motor you are looking at. There are 3 - a 4 cylinder, a 3L V6 and a 4L V6.

    The 4 will be very underpowered, in my opinion, especially in an automatic. The 3L will probably 'ping'. But it will run and ping without causing a problem. It will have acceptable power and give lousy milage. The 4L will have very nice power and extremely bad milage. All are nice engines.

    In addition to knowing it is an XLT, you need to see if it is extended cab or 3/4 door (I don't know which year they added the additional doors on the extended cabs.) These are important options that affect the value of the truck.

    Then look up the value in Kelly Blue Book or NADA Book to see what it is worth. (In general.)
  • day1day1 Member Posts: 4
    I have a '99 Ranger, 3.0, 6 cyl. $2000 worth of transmission repairs at 50,000 miles. I should have bought a Toyota. Went through all the complaint processes Ford has available and the result was "too bad, those things happen sometimes". Ford will not get me.
  • hutch5hutch5 Member Posts: 3
    Im still tryin to figure out why my 91 ford ranger has no horse power. It has the 8 plug set up. It will idle fine for a couple of minutes then it act up, the rpms always stay about a 1000 then when acts up it idles about 800 rmps. When i take off i got no horse power it takes off like its off like a 2 cyl car. I have took it to firestone and they dont know what it is.They told me maybe a engine coolant sensor. There are no codes being thrown but i dont know if it works the engine has been replaced with a remanufactured engine. so if nebody could helpme and point me in the right direction . thank you
  • victoriabvictoriab Member Posts: 1
    Hi we own a 1990 Ford Ranger..problem is that it suddenly died the other day and when we restarted it and put it into drive it died again. we have replaced the fuel filter and now it wont start. Plz any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
  • prosnowprosnow Member Posts: 1
    I am about to buy a 2002 ranger edge with 57,000 miles on it i was wondering if they had problems after 60,000 miles?
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