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Comments
-matt
p.s. the truck also has lots of miles, approaching 160k. In fact, any advice for keeping this great vehicle running far into the future would be greatly appreciated!
Can anyone help?
It can be removed and cleaned, sometimes stopping this problem. It is a valve the meters air, and an electrical solenoid that moves the air. Clean it with carb cleaner, but hold it so the cleaner does not get into the electrical part of it. If you are careful, it can be removed without destroying its gasket.
A dirty IAC will also cause high, low, or wandering idles. A new one is about $60 or so if you want to replace it.
I would think you could put your hand on it with the truck running when it is humming, and feel it vibrating.
I was just wondering what would cause this and has anyone experienced this before.
Does anyone have an idea what I'm dealing with here? Is this a question of replacing the necessary gaskets and gromets to reform the seal, or is there likely a deeper problem.
Can anyone help me?
Thanks
vss,replaced sensor still thru code. Now shop wants to replace CT modual (GEM)$320 part $340 labor. runs great emissions were great,is CTM likely? Also speedo doesnt work.Tech. says CT dead,no reading, he's not even sure but wants to start there! SOS need info ASAP...
There are rubber plugs in the top of Ranger transmissions that rot out and fluid comes out. These can just be replaced.
If the transmission has a problem, I've read that they don't take overhauls very well because if the bearings fail, they chew up the housing itself.
Coolant getting into oil is a symptom of head gasket problem. Overheating an engine can cause the head gasket to fail. A failed head gasket can cause overheating. And yes, this could have ruined the head/heads from the heat and/or motor from lubrication problems with water in the oil.
I have no idea what kind of warranty you have. I thought Ranger has only 3 year/36,000 miles overall warranty. Only thing warrantied to 100,000 miles may be some of the emission equipment and safety equipment (sear belts, etc).
If you have an add-on after market warranty, start reading it or contact the company that issued it.
So I guess my question can be refined a little. Apparently, the clutch fluid reservoir went dry suddenly. The shifting always becomes sluggish when the fluid level gets a bit low....thats when I know to top it off. However, this problem happened all of a sudden, without any sluggish shifter warning. So I guess I need to figure out where the "clutch fluid" went. I can't find any sign of it. I looked inside the little viewing port on the bottom edge of the bell housing....nothing came out. The clutch still disengages the engine, but the stick apparently will not change the gears. It's still stuck in 5th gear.
I've read these are tough to replace, mainly tough to bleed the new one to get the air out. As I said in another message, if you have a significant number of miles it, I would consider doing a clutch job on it at the same time.
I still would think you could pull it out of 5th gear when the motor is not running.... If not, there might also be transmission problems.
Unless you have mechanical experience, tow this sucker to a shop.
Thanks
oh yeah my gage lights on my dash are half out so its hard to see at night when driving. im guessing i blew a bulb and its just a pain to fix
ok thanks
I have a 99 ranger 4x4 with the 3.0L engine. It is automatic.
The big question, does the transmission have a filter or a screen?
I just got it back from the dealer and after they told me that they did the Flush I realized they never touched the pan. That really bothers me. The service advisor said it probably has a screen and would not need removal. Even if it had a screen wouldn't you remove the pan to clean it and replace the gasket???
I would really appreciate help on this. Thanks
Really made me angry. This is not a Chrysler.
Major repair. $2000
i believe that the screen is the filter but YES you would dump the pan and scrape the gasket off and replace with a new one
hope this helps
go onto napa.com it will help you with some stuff
Chris
BTW - I am posting here because the Mazda Board is dead.
Is the ABS light on?
Don't you only have rear brake ABS on this model?
Are you locking up the rear brakes or do you have no brakes?
In any case, if you didn't have this problem before, and you have this problem after a brake repair, I think that shop needs to fix it, at no cost, for you.
Is this a good DEPENDABLE truck, or am I just asking for headache? I'm not familiar with Ranger problems....please help. Are there specific costly repairs that I should look for when I test drive?
Thanks!
--Klab
You need to find out what kind of motor you are looking at. There are 3 - a 4 cylinder, a 3L V6 and a 4L V6.
The 4 will be very underpowered, in my opinion, especially in an automatic. The 3L will probably 'ping'. But it will run and ping without causing a problem. It will have acceptable power and give lousy milage. The 4L will have very nice power and extremely bad milage. All are nice engines.
In addition to knowing it is an XLT, you need to see if it is extended cab or 3/4 door (I don't know which year they added the additional doors on the extended cabs.) These are important options that affect the value of the truck.
Then look up the value in Kelly Blue Book or NADA Book to see what it is worth. (In general.)