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Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions
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Comments
Also, I want to change my timing change belts and would like to know if it is rubber or what material it is.
Thanks
All the belts in your Pro are rubber, with internal woven fiber reinforcement (to limit stretching). Get like ones as replacements.
What tools do I need?
Thanks.
I've just bought my first car. It's a Mazda Protege SE (1.6L), year 2000. It's great for what I need!!!
The problem is previous owner lost owner's manual, and I don't know how to get one. I want to go through some maintenance in order to start my own records of the car, but I would like to read maker recommendations first.
Any idea where I can download a copy? Official web sites don't have electronic copy of a 2000 manual.
Thanx a lot!!
Cheers!!
Always check gaps even if "pre-gapped" from factory. Thread the new plugs on very carefully, as our Al head is very soft and cross-threading is likely. Do not overtighten. Always inspect hi-tension leads for wear and damage.
How are your ignition wires? Have you had to replace them yet? If so, when and with what? If not, any recommendations?
Thanks,
Doug
Thanks.
All this info can be found also in previous posts. Just wanted to repost this answer to confirm this from the dealer.
Thanks.
Good luck!
PS shops like Pep Boys will often perform tests for free and be able to tell you where you need to go for certain things. Don't get taken for a ride-ask around
I bought a 2000 ES for my daughter. It is in excellent condition with only 49000 miles. But it was a salvage title because it had been in a minor front end fender-bender and subsequently repaired. I want to get everything I can think of squared away before she goes off to college next month so I’ve been doing all the maintenance stuff ie. spark plugs, tire rotation, oil & filter and a transmission fluid change etc .
Anyway I am telling you all this because the only thing I am still unsure about is the way the cooling fans are operating. It has two cooling fans. Alldata labels one as the A/C condenser fan and the other a radiator fan. When the engine is started up cool in the morning, if I turn the A/C on, both fans immediately run continuously. I can understand why the A/C condenser fan would run, but why does the other radiator fan run along with it unnecessarily even though the engine is still cold?
After a while and when the engine is warmed up, both fans then cycle on and off together apparently with the A/C compressor cycle. At this point I would think the radiator fan would run controlled by the coolant temperature and I would also think the condenser fan would be the only one cycling on and off with the compressor (and preferably just running continuously when the A/C button is selected). Doesn’t that seem logical?
But like I say, both fans continue to cycle on (and they are pretty loud too) and off together about every 20 seconds. Why have two separate [big roaring] fans if the the system is then designed to run them always together. It would be more sensible if the A/C condensor fan would run continuously anytime the A/C is selected... and the radiator fan was controlled by temperature and would run or not run independently. This is how all my other cars electric fans seem to work.
The 4 cylinder 1.8 liter engine runs very smoothly in or out of gear at about 700 RPM. But when the A/C and the two fans come roaring on, and the RPM jumps to 800 rpm, things then vibrate excessively making the hood shake along with the unpleasantly loud fan noise. Is this normal? This seems unnecessarily poor scheduling of the cooling fans.
My question is: Is this how it is suppose to be? Or is there maybe a temperature sensor or something not right? I noticed it also takes about 3 times longer to warm up than my other cars. This also seems odd especially since the Protege makes the cooling fans run on the cold radiator and engine.
Or... if this is how all Proteges are designed to operate the cooling fans, is there a way to make the system operate in a more sensible manner?
Or... since both these fans turn on and off together would it be OK to just unplug one to cut the fan noise in half and still have adequate cooling. It seems like overkill anyway to have two fans, especially considering that during the cycling they are sometimes both completely off for 20 seconds instead of providing nice consistent moderate airflow rather than this on-off-on-off all the time.
Is there anyone reading this forum that can give me some reliable answers to any or all of my questions? -who knows about proper cooling fan operation or has experience modifying it's operation to make it quieter?
Thank you for taking time to read my post and thanks for your advise.
Bob
However, even with both fans on, your hood shouldn't be shaking. You will hear them, but I never thought it was excessively loud, just noticeable.
I suspect the fans, fan housings or mounting points may have been damaged in the accident. I'd inspect them, and if they are unbalanced or a mount is broken, etc., I'd replace them. You might check junkyards for units from a Protege that didn't suffer damage to its front end.
It's time to replace the struts on my car. To save on costs, a buddy of mine (who know his way around cars) is going to help me do the work. Does anyone have any pointers that might help us out?
Also - if you have any suggestions for a brand to buy, let me know. I'm not interested in anything fancy - just a basic replacement for original struts that have worn after 78k.
The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
I took my wife's 2002 Protege in today for an oil change and the dealership came out and said that the transmission fluid was looking a little dark and suggested it be changed. The car currently has 48,696 miles on it.
The last time I had the transmission fluid changed was in November 2003 at about 29,400 miles.
My questions are:
1. Is the recommendation to change the tranny fluid based on miles, years or a combination of the two?
2. Would people suggest I get it done because it has been a while?
I looked in the owner's manual and the American version of the maintenance did not say anything. (There is a specific maintenance regiment for Protege's being used in Chile. And before I drop $135 on it, I would like to know if it is worth doing it or not.
Thanks.
Dave
Remember the oxygen sensor(s) are the only sensors that tells the computer how things are running. The other sensors simply provide input, such as throttle position.
The only real check you have that the computer commands are being followed, are the oxygen sensors.
Good Luck,
John
p.s. I have heard that when one gets the transmission fluid replaced the garage it should be flushed and not just drained to ensure that all the metal filings and other crud is removed; it's this crud that eventually wears down the transmission. Typically the flush involves "dropping" the drain pan from the engine. You may want to talk to a transmission shop for their advice.
For tires, I found Yokohama YK420 at America's tire to be the best solution for me. They seem to be in stock at America's tire (as opposed to having to special order). I can get a road hazard/60000 mile treadwear warranty on them. This comes in handy, I have had several side-wall damages that were not able to be repaired. They were $88 each installed last time. They don't handle or track as well as the OEM tires, but the car is still fun to drive.
The soft clunk from the transmission when shifting at low gears has disappeared after I adjusted my technique. However thankfully I still have the original clutch. I think I've only replaced the brakes once in 95000 miles. I was told at 60,000 that there was not a required replacement of the timing belt then. I may be coming up on one.
The car has an assortment of noises. The squeal that I notice at high speeds remains. The car is noisy, especially tire noise on rough paving (not as bad after switching to Yokos but still noticeable). Also the engine is at high rpms going over 60, I wish there had been a 6th gear. It also is a stiff ride, but fun fun zoom zoom.
Favorite things: The sporty handling, peppy engine and comfortable seats with lots of adjustments. Trunk capacity and rear seating room are amazing for a car this small. I've not seen another small car that can match it. I can fit three golf bags in the Protege's trunk. Most small cars now can barely hold one.
Least favorite things: Expensive hard to find tires, cheap visors, high rpms at cruising speeds. Gas mileage could be better, but I guess I have to pay for the performance.
I always drive over a speed bump and some dips in the road on my way to work. The weather here has gotten colder lately and I've noticed that every time I go over one of these my Pro makes a metallic clunking noise in the front and the back (underneath). I was thinking there might be a problem with my shocks, but so far I can only hear this when the weather is cold. When it warms up, the noise doesn't happen.
Insights? Suggestions?
Thanks.
However, to my surprise, I discovered that 18" and 20" Trico Winter Blades are almost exactly the same length as the Mazda OEM 19" and 21" summer blades!
The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
Mine makes the clunking noise too.
I just took my wife's 2002 Protege to the dealer for an oil change and belt replacement.
They mentioned to me that one of the clips for where the air filter goes into is broken. Not the actual filter, but the plastic "housing" where it goes into.
Is this a common thing? Can this break on its own through normal use of a car? I am asking because I have not touched the air cleaner in 9 months and the only people who have touched that component is the dealership. I am thinking during one of their checks, they may have broken it.
Just need people's opinions on this.
Thanks.
Dave
I doubt it. Have you had extreme temperature changes? Do you see cracks in the rest of the housing? I have a 2002 Protege5 and I can see how someone could break a clip if they weren't paying attention.
the only people who have touched that component is the dealership ... they may have broken it
Possible. I wonder if they did it as they were doing the oil and belt change. Hopefully, it's not expensive to repair.
Hopefully, it's not expensive to repair.
The dealership quoted me a price of $230. That is on top of the $135 tranny flush I did a month or two back, the $150 or so dollar belt replacement this weekend, the $99 dollar brake fluid flush & plus they found a power steering system hose leak near located near the radiator, which I think is in the $300's to repair. I have not done the power steering nor the brake fluid flush yet!
My wife is not happy.
D
Agreed.
Where can I get non-synth GL-4 75w90?. Suggestions?
Also, Is 2003 P5 interferece engine or not?
Manual says... Specified oilGrade: API service GL-4 or GL-5 Viscosity: SAE 75W—90 (All season) or SAE 80W—90 (Above 10 °°°°C {50 °°°°F}.
Don't know if I'd worry about the oil yet. Synthetic should be fine though. I use it in my Miata and it shifts smoother. P5 shifs fine on original stuff. Not sure it would make much of a difference.
"Tranny oil change
Q--I drive a 1998 Ford Escort and want to know if manual transmissions require oil changes. I keep hearing about automatic transmissions, oil changing, and flushing, but what about the good old manual?
A--Yes, manual transmissions should have an oil change. I suggest having it done during the first or second engine oil change to get any junk out of the box early on in the car's life. After that, you can usually forget about it. On my personal vehicles, however, I change it again at 100,000 miles."
Thanks all!