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Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions
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Comments
:confuse:
Can you please tell me what I need to do in order to drive this car for many more years? Am I too late? Thanks for any help - Sara
Also, there is an excellent online manual http://protege5.ugly.net/ which includes in the general introduction (00 section) the maintenance schedule. Also, it may be a good idea to ask the garage that you are using to do an overall check of the car. For starters, you'll likely need new spark plugs and have your transmission fluid flushed. Also, it's getting awfully close to replacing your timing belt; you don't want to procrastinate too long with that service.
Please advise
Curious. It sounds like you may need a new mechanic more than new struts. I test my shocks / struts by leaning on the corner of the car and watching it bounce back up. If it rebounds more than twice the shocks are likely worn. Also, if you don't feel safe turning corners or stopping because the car leans excessively then you would be wise to have the car checked. Otherwise, I would keep on driving ... to the next mechanic.
As far as the struts go, the struts on my P5 have over 110,000 miles on them and show no signs of wear. Generally, when they are bad, they will rattle and you might hear a clunking noise. As Autonomous mentioned, the bounce test is valid also. Even so, if the car drives well, keep driving. Struts are not a preventative maintenance item.
Shirley
Unfortunately it happens, but not only to women. We're all here trying to learn as much as we can.
Have a great summer riding your Pro!
If you don't have the money for a service manual I don't know how you will be able to afford struts. Might try a salvage yard.
Ah, beautiful Halifax! My memories of Halifax include the steep descent from centretown to the waterfront. That must take a toll on the brakes as well as the suspension. Also, being a seaport doesn't that spell corrosion?
But, if you want to feel better, just come to the island of Montreal where the roads swallow cars. It's a constant battle for the city to keep patching the roads after each winter's ravages. I love the place but it can be wicked on your machine.
I don't know what to say about replacing the struts other than start saving your money for that credit card bill. Personally, I wouldn't go for salvaged struts unless I wasn't planning to keep the car.
My question is what are good struts to buy for a city with bad bumpy roads?
1. call a local Mazda dealer and ask them which struts they would recommend; ask them for a quote with the price of the parts separate from the labour; if they are OEM parts ask if there are any cheaper alternatives with a similar/better warranty;
2. call a local auto parts supplier to ask them how much they would charge for the parts.
What you may find is that it may be cheaper going through an independent garage to install non-OEM parts.
Otherwise as you say [non-permissible content removed] happens. Good luck!
Who is "he"? A salesman, an owner, a mechanic?
I would not buy a used car without having my mechanic check it over thoroughly. If you don't have a trusted mechanic you're running the risk of buying someone else's problem.
You may not want your daughter to do the test drive. :surprise:
Before I take it in and am at the mercy of their cash register, thought I'd get some advise from you all.
Any ideas?
Also wheel bearing noise is possible.
I got a 2001 Protege LX 2.0. Recently I hear some cranking noise from front left bottom when I do the U-turn (left U-turn). I went to mechanic and he said there is a problem with left axle. But after I changed the left front axle ($180 cost), there noise is still there. Does anyone got any idea about this problem? Thanks~~
google "protege suspension noise" and you'll find tons of info
rear sway-bars clunk also
mine currently does both
Any suggestions.
My guess is I'm safer going w/ a dealer vs. private shop, in case the new belt breaks or other problems arise.
Any suggestions?
Also, considered replacing air filter w/ stock K&H. They appear to allow better air flow because they don't filter small particles in intake air as effectively as a standard filter.
Anyone have any experience or opinions w/ K&H filters.
Thanks
The timing belt is cheap. The real cost is getting to it. The mechanic has to remove parts to access the belt. So, once the garage has access, they frequently suggest other work such as replacing other belts in the area and the water pump. Personally, I think that's a good idea. Otherwise, one runs the risk of having a belt or related component break a few months later and having to go through the whole process and cost all over again.
Any after market pads and rotors that are better performers than OEM w/ rotors that don't rust?
Thanks.
The dealer that said that is an idiot. If they are stupid enough to make such a comment, they are clearly too dumb to work on your car. Stay far away from them.
GL-4 rated 75W90 can't be found anywhere.
GL-5 rated has additives that corrode brass components in transmission.
One dealership said synthetic causes seals to deteriorate.
Any ideas? Thanks
The local dealer parts dept. says Ngk BKR5E-11 (6953)
The Ngk catalog and everything else I check says NGK ZFR6F-11 (4291)
This car has 113,000 on it, was previously in a rent a car fleet and has been extremly well maintained.
I just did the Tbelt, seals, waterpump, tensioner and spring.
Any clues on which spark plug is correct?
TDS
TDS2003
Kasey
On the whole a well-maintained Protege is a wonderful thing. I have a 2002 and it remains a treat to drive.
But to be sure it's a good idea to check it out (or even better have it checked out at a garage). In addition to the usual stuff (maintenance records: has the timing belt been replaced) check out the tires (do they need to be replaced?), check for rust (especially in wheel wells and bottom of doors) as well as check the ignition and fuel system (a good test drive will tell you a lot about any hesitation or other problems). Good luck and let us know if you join the P5-group.
Another issue arose where the dealership suggested that I had to change my timing belt, yet the manual says that the timing belt doesn't need to be changed until 168,000 kms/60 000 miles. The service guy warned that I would be towed in within 20 000 km if I didn't change the timing belt now, but I'm concerned that they are just trying to push for a very expensive servicing. Has anyone any comment for this?
Thanks,
Zoomer
If it's an Automatc, change trans fluid every 30 K miles.
I contacted Mazda as per 5-speed manual Trans fluid change. They said never to change unless there are problems. Additionally, it takes GL-4 level fluid (not produced any more), 75W-90.
All manual standard oil based fluids contain sulphur additives which deteriorate the "yellow metal" brass synchros. GL-4 contains a lesser amount.
GL-5 rated fluids contain much more sulpher additive, so replacing the fluid can actually deteriorate the synchros even faster, leaving the car owner w/ trans rebuild problems you never even had before. 5 dealers in my area have no clue, they just sell service. Do a google search on GL-4 trans fluid for more info.
If you do opt to replace trans fluid, find a fully synthetic w/ no sulpher compounds. Again, do a google search.
Good luck.
Oldman15