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Mazda Protege Basic Maintenance Questions

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Comments

  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Please clarify this:
    "Start the car up with the drain plug out for about a minute, this will get everything out."

    An engine with no coolant can be a dangerous thing... your temp gauge will not show the correct engine temp without coolant in there. Also without coolant, heat will not dissipate from the cylinder walls and the head so I would reccomend no more than 20 seconds of that method. Dealers and repair shops have flushing machines that do a much better job so if you are bent on getting every nook and cranny, I would suggest that. Of course, a simple drain and refill of the engine would be fine for a 30k. The intention is just to get the lost additives back in the coolant.

    As a side note:
    According to Mazda the 30k involves an oil change, replace spark plugs and air filter. That's it!

    :)
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    You start the car up to get the rest of the coolant out, it shouldn't hurt anything if you don't run it long (ie head, water pump, etc.) The dealers and repair shops machines don't actually "flush" the cooling system, they just take the old coolant out from the upper radiator hose and there is a fill hose that attaches to the radiator. It works by gravity and the water pump and nothing else. If I read my owners manual right, it says to flush the coolant at 30,000 miles or 2 years. It also wouldn't be a bad time to replace the PCV valve, air filter, and spark plugs. The manual transmission uses regular gear oil (GL5 I believe) not synthetic, so I change them at 30,000 miles. The dealer will also inspect numerous other things.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Newcar31, check this link to SPX/Robinair:


    http://www.robinair.com/products/coolant.pdf


    Any good shop would have a power flush like the above. Otherwise you are begging for a trapped air bubble in the cylinder head.


    BTW, the 2001 Pro manual says coolant should be changed at 45k then every 30k thereafter.


    :)

  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    Ooops, it says 45,000/ 3years for the first coolant change, then every 2 years 30,000 miles. I'll do it at 30,000 anyways. I changed my coolant in my Acura Integra that way since it was new in 92. Never had a problem with overheating it when changing the coolant and Honda engines do not like heat. Sold it with 130,000 miles and it ran great. The mazda dealer will also "Inspect and repair, clean, adjust, or replace if necessary: Drive belt tension, idle speed, fuel lines and hoses, brake lines, hoses and connections, steering linkage, front suspension and ball joints, CV boots, bolts, nuts on chassis and body, locks & hinges, and the AC system at 30,000 miles". Thats a little more than an oil change, air filter and spark plugs. Those are the things you should do yourself. Let the mazda dealer do the rest.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    "Inspect and repair, clean, adjust, or replace if necessary"

    Translated, that statement means: We look for things that are broken or showing signs of wear and then give you a laundry list of items that we think you need repaired. If you are the slightest bit mechanically inclined you can handle these items yourself.

    Typically, a dealer will add items to their 30k service that are not suggested by the factory. Granted, preventative maintenance is usually not a bad thing but a few more bucks that you may not need to spend.

    :)
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    Most shops that I have seen use a simple vaccum/gravity coolant exchange machine. The water pump of the vehicle is what "flushes" the coolant out when the vehicle is running. The machine that you just posted does the same thing when the engine is running, but it does have a motor in it so you can do it without the water pump (like when the engine is not running) To avoid air bubbles or air pockets, run the vehicle for about 5 minutes WITH THE RADIATOR CAP OFF after you have filled up the radiator with coolant. On hondas, there is an air release valve right where the upper radiator hose goes into the head. This will get rid of any air pockets.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    Most people wouldn't be able to do that stuff. Most people don't know what a CV boot is, let alone know how to adjust the belt tension.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Todd, don't take offense, I love a good conversation. Tell me the sky is blue and I'll try to find a way to clarify that.LOL

    I have seen cases where air bubbles have stayed in there with the cap off(not Honda). I just look for the highest hose into the cyl head, loosen the clamp and squeeze it a few times. That usually does the trick.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    No offense taken. I work at a shop now while I am in college and I know that most people know nothing about their cars so they are better off having the dealer look at it. I would trust the dealer over anybody else but myself because there is always a bad apple mechanic. What color is your protoge? 5sp or auto?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I'm stricken in a Black DX Auto for the next 2 months, so I have no zoom joy in my blood at this time. I never worked in a shop although I did do a lot of repair work and then re-selling for a while during school. I always loved working out of my garage, trying to save people money and giving advice on how not to get ripped off. Now I'm stuck behind a desk but still working close to the industry.

    I guess this would be a good time to state that my posts are based on my opinion and not those of my sposorer(employer).

    :)
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    Owners manual explains how to change coolant and there's no "caution" or "warning" concerning the presence of air bubbles. Tell me more...
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Member Posts: 398
    Ordered the service manual for my 2k es the other day. Looks like it will be quite an extensive manual. Unfortunately it doesn't include the wiring diagrams, but that can be gotten later if need be.
    So for now, I'm all ears. I probably won't be able to do half the things covered in this manual, but being able to do the other half(or so) will easily offset the $105 it cost. And at the minimum make me a much more informed owner when dealer service is needed.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Makes a nice song but it's more like an air gap in the head.

    You can tell you have one if your temp gauge doesn't go up to normal yet you hear the radiator fan running. The owners manual suggests the Todd(newcar31) method(see above) with the addition of a few revs to move the coolant a little faster. This should work ok, just make sure the temp gauge returns to normal.

    Uh oh, wife is calling, time to go.....
    :)
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    why does the Protege, at idle speeds, give a jerk/jolt when the a/c compressor switches on?

    or is it only my problem...dealer adjusted the idle speeds...is better than before...but still gives a nice jolt if I had the a/c on for about 1 hour or so on a long drive and am waiting at a gas station with the A/c on at idle speeds?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I'm not sure I understand your question...

    Does it jolt the whole car forward or just cause the idle speed to decrease? If the idles speed just changes, that is no big deal unless it's a big change.

    The A/C clutch will cycle on and off as the system pressure changes. This is normal for all cars, but the smaller engines feel it the most.

    :)
  • hkchanhkchan Member Posts: 420
    maltb, can you even adjust the idle speed?
  • jstandeferjstandefer Member Posts: 805
    When the car is at idle, there is quite a jolt when the AC compressor kicks on. If you don't know what it is, it feels like someone just nudged you from behind. Unfortunately, it is quite normal for a small 4-cyl engine to be affected like this. It seems to only happen once every three or four cycles of the compressor. I though something was wrong until I noticed that all of the Protege's did this.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    It can be done just make sure you don't touch the throttle plate adjustment. If you want to change the idle, there is a screw on the top of the throttle body that is recessed in a hole.

    :)
  • olga4olga4 Member Posts: 6
    Does anyone know how to get rid of wax on window? When I washed my car first time (at Kwik Kar wash, it's actually a self-service) I applied wax to the whole car including windows and that was a big mistake. Any remedy?
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    why don't you like it? the water will just sheet off... but I can assume that using Windex or something might get it off.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I found a product called Strip-It for cleaning everything off of windshields. If you are having problems with wiper chatter, that should take care of it.

    :)
  • olga4olga4 Member Posts: 6
    I've tried Windex and ArmorAll Autoglass (?) and it didn't help... The reason I'm trying to get rid of it is because at nighttime the thin wax film disperse a light, and if there's a car behind mine, rearwindow becomes 'foggy'.

    I'll probably try Strip-It, hope it will help.
    Thank you, guys!
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I didn't realize it was the rear window. Did you try cleaning the inside? I've noticed a lot of build up on the inside after warm days that cause the plastics to 'sweat'. Don't use the strip it on the inside of the rear window or you may ruin the defroster grid.
  • olga4olga4 Member Posts: 6
    That might be an additional reason, you are quite right... There were several warm days here already... And Texan sun warms a car kinda 'nicely', regardless of outside temperature.
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    yeah.. my car gets hazy inside too (both front and rear). in the back, i just kick the defrost and it disperses. Also, if its too bad, a nice wipe of a towel or napkin will fix it right up.
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Member Posts: 1,583
    i should only use the polish and wax on PAINTED panels, not the black plastic parts (i.e. the side mirrors), right? what about the headlights/signals lights? If not, any special cleaners/gels to shine those plastic parts up?

    very happy to see the main message board eclipsing the 1000 message mark

    H
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Member Posts: 1,265
    It is a big no no to get wax on the black trim and plastic exterior parts of your vehicle. The trim can carry a white residue stain until hell freezes over, unless you spend considerable time and effort cleaning the wax/polish off the trim, etc. Just take your time, waxing and you should make only an occasional goof. ;-O

    If you use a non-abrasive wax or cleaner polish you can give your head, signal, and tail lights a light coat of wax. Just buff these areas real good and you will be in good shape.

    Two schools of thought on the exterior black plastic trim. 1# Leave the trim alone, because if you start treating them, you will always need to treat them to prevent drying and cracking. 2# Go to AutoZone, Pep Boys, Wall Mart etc. and find a nice product designed to treat, shine and maintain the black plastic exterior trim. I prefer #2, but then I'm a little fussy about detailing my Protege, hehe.

    Respectfully;
    Larry
  • conheadyconheady Member Posts: 77
    Any cleaner with ammonia in it will get rid of wax. It dissolves it. Just don't get it on your black rubber trim, it may leave marks.
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Member Posts: 1,583
    will give my midnight blue Pro a good old once over when weather gets nicer...

    Hank
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    any indications, landmarks, etc to guide someone new like me?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    If you don't know where it is, don't touch the idle. I applaud your eagerness to do stuff on your own, but there is more to it than just turning the screw until it sounds right.

    Even though the factory manual is ~$100, the amount of insight you gain is awesome. Most of the procedures, even though they require special tools, were written for untrained monkeys.

    I'd be happy to point it out, but I don't want you to do something that may cause problems down the road.

    :)
  • digidavedigidave Member Posts: 48
    Hey, just wanted to confim from the posts made in the other (now HUGE) discussion board where Meade mentions a ticking sound coming from behind the glove box when the cruise control is engaged. Sure enough, I can hear it as well in my '01 ES - a rapid tick-tick-tick (weird ?).

    (guess I'll have to tune it out with some tunes)

    Dave
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Don't forget! Tonight is Protege Owners chat. Click on the link at the top of the page.

    KarenS
    Host
    Owner's Clubs
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    I am no layman...but in terms of the ProES... I am.

    I actually used to work a lot of mainte. things on my bike before....but that was a carb and idle setting was easier to locate on that.

    so if you could help me... I'd appreciate it.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I tried to be as careful in my remarks as possible chikoo. I don't know you or your abilities so I was just covering bases.

    Looking from the front of your car into the engine compartment, it is to the left of the battery. Follow the black rubber tube from the air filter box/airflow sensor back to the aluminum throttle body. There are two adjustable screws on the TB. One changes the idle by letting additional air through a passage and one adjusts the throttle plate opening(DON'T TOUCH that one). The one to use is in a recess as the plate adjustment is exposed.

    :)
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    I'll try to take a look at it... and then figure whether I should do anything to it or not.

    I would not like to do anything while still under warranty.

    have a nice day.

    (I appreciate your not giving tech. advise left&right...shows that you care)
  • chikoochikoo Member Posts: 3,008
    I took a look at where you said.
    I followed the 2" rubber tube from the airfilter box to the aluminium body. Oh the top is a coil of some sort.

    I did not find any screws on the upper visible side.

    What kind of screws are these? slot or philips or star? any identification marks on those screws?

    Thanks in advance
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    DX/LX or ES

    I'll try to get a picture later today, but I need to know engine size.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Chikoo has a 1999 ES, but I don't know what color. I remember seeing it in the chat thread before.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Send me an e-mail.
  • olga4olga4 Member Posts: 6
    I've just recently got my car from a body shop (somebody keyed it so it was necessary to repait the whole side). I know I can't wax it and have to use brushless carwash only for 3 months. What about high-pressure wash? Can it damage finish also?
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    yes.. those high pressure washes can mess it up.
  • gitarzangitarzan Member Posts: 66
    My new 2k Pro has a cussedly ugly dealer logo stuck onto it's fanny right above the Mazda logo. The dealer told me it was attached with double stick foam tape, and to hit it with a hairdryer and slowly peel it off...

    Anyone have a opinion on this technique? Any other way? I don't want to peel off any paint and don't want to bugger it up trying to clean it with chemicals like lighter fluid or tar removers.

    If it was tastful I'd just leave it, but this dealer's logo is downright garish and looks very out of place.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Member Posts: 1,265
    A hair dryer to warm the tape and then use a piece of dental floss to slowly separate the logo from the car. There are several non-evasive products to remove the tape residue. Go to your local AutoZone or Pep Boys. They will sell, Tar&Bug remover type products that will work.

    Respectfully;
    Larry
  • borgf15borgf15 Member Posts: 29
    i removed mine; it wasn't a big deal. Bug & tar remover works great to get off the remaining gunk.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Member Posts: 1,265
    Where do you live in Texas? I mentioned at the chat on Thursday, I will be in the Dallas area for a TGI Friday mgr. work shop. I was just wondering what the weather, temp., etc. are like this time of year in Dallas?

    -Larry
  • gitarzangitarzan Member Posts: 66
    I'm a sick puppy. I just bought clear plastic floor mats to protect the factory mats.

    It's still too cold here to wash and wax. I wanna wash and wax. Weekdays have been nice, weekends are rainy or cold or both.

    If you live somewhere where it's at least 75 deg. this time of year, send me roundtrip airfare and I'll wash and wax your Pro'.
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    use Goo Gone.. People use it on Altimas and it works.. I'm glad my dealer use vinyl stickers.. came right off when I washed it.
  • borgf15borgf15 Member Posts: 29
    we live in wichita falls, about 2 hrs drive from dallas. It's supposed to be mostly cloudy, maybe rainy at times w/ t-storms. Should be highs in the 60's, lows in the 40's. We're right at the start of tornado season....blah!
    Have fun in Dallas!
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Member Posts: 1,265
    Hey, thanks! Joe, I did not realize it is that cold, in Dallas this time of year. I figured 80's during the day, 60's at night? I guess I'll throw a spring jacket in the bag. Thanks again!

    -Larry
This discussion has been closed.