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Comments
Could be one of two problems...
1) Aforementioned dirty throttle. Heck, you could clean that yourself
2) Defective throttle assembley.
Bill
Bill
Contrats on your "JX8". And don't feel bad, the price of my used 97 VDP went up by $1,000 when I asked them to install the CD changer before I bought it. Sounds great though!
Thanks
The XJs and XKs would need an adapter, but the Jag market is too small for them to engineer one as far as I know.
98+ you will need an OEM chagner I'm afraid. $950 installed is a fair price. Internal cost (Cost on changer+$50 for 1 hour of labor.. what the new car dept used to pay) for us used to be about $800 or so.. and that was 2 years ago.
You could try calling around though. And you could do an "RF" CD CHanger, but then you have the ugly box next to your stereo head unit and they sound crappy.
Bill
That'll be $39.95 plus tax and handling fee. Cash or Visa/MC
kidding...
Bill
However, it could be a loose gas cap perhaps. Also, as you found out, oftentimes turning a Jag on and off gets it thinking clearly again.
Also, and don't laugh.,. its' the truth.
The people who run the snot out of their Jaguars seem to get the best service out of them. I have beaten the snot out of my Vanden Plas for 6 years. Lots of tires and brakes. Car still has leak-down compression results within new engine specs at 127,000 miles.
Somethin to chew on.
Enjoy the XKR.. I wish I fit in them...
Bill
95 VDP
97 XJ6
99 XJR
They diddn't get any codes from the computer and could not duplicate the problem.
They did clean the throttle and replace the engine maintenance module, which they told me regulates the air and gas mixture.
I will be picking up the car today. Hopefully, it will be fixed.
Any idea what to use and how much work is involve?
I know that the 88 are not pre-wired for it.
Thanks.
Luc.
you could make your own or have someone is
make it and spliced in the plug from the changer
of your choice.
luc: I'd get a high-quality aftermarket head unit and changer... Cost is little more than the changer alone and the sound will be improved as well.
bellavista: Only real bugaboo on the early (97) coupes is the window sealing mechanism can act up. Generally no major deal to fix tho. Dealer (or you) needs to "cycle" the windows...
Outstanding cars.. also they use Pirelli P-Zeros which wear quickly and are pricey.
Bill
As I read your notes, I notice that quite a few of you are adding
upgrades and enhancements to your Jags.
Over the years, I have done some of the same.
In doing so, I have come across a good place for Jag. parts, accessories and "neat" Jag items. They have been around for quite a while. (I am surprised that some of my Jag friends didn't know of them and this may be the same for you.)
Those that have dealt with them have good things to say about them. My expierence, likewise, has been good. (Incidently, "I get no commissions".... am just passing along some helpful info. that I have found beneficial.)
They are Welsh Jaguar Specialists located in Ohio and are able to be contacted at www.welshent.com They put out a periodic flier with neat stuff... such as this last issues with "Dad's" Day Jaguar gift idea".... how about that guys ? We could just see that the brochure is put in a conspicuous place !
Happy Jag'n around !
christchurch
There is nothing like a new car.
There is such pleasure being the first to sit behind the wheel and peel off the new car stickers.
I recall a real pleasure I had when I was at the dealer when my "new baby" arrived on the truck. I recall watching as it was driven down from the carrier and parked in the sun. It gleamed and "beamed" as if to say: "Here I am... take me home and I am going to be a great friend".
I thought as I admired "her" that it was the most beautiful automobile I had ever seen... she was!
All this is a fond memory, as you can see.
The point for most of us is that buying back a year or so can result in a great cash outlay savings advantage. The first year or so depreciation has already been peeled off and thus factored in. Moreover, there are so many great Jags now on the market, because of leasing, at "reasonable prices" it just seems the most cost effective way to go, not withstanding comments about "business tax advantages of leasing" to which I concur.
But, for those who wish to buy, I still recommend a 1998 or newer XJ8 or XJR.
I prefer to purchase one which has fairly low miles and has been given the dealer "Select Edition" certification. This raises the price over the "used car lot" models because it has undergone, perhaps, the best scrutiny and restoration on the market. In my opinion it is worth every "British Pound".
After "Select Edition" 100 or so point treatment it really almost is a "new car" again. As a result, Jag feels no hesitation in extending its "new car" warrenty way out. On these cars, as on any expensive Euro with "pricy parts and labor", an extended warrenty is a good deal.... particularly this one.
Happy Jaguar motoring..... you will have bought a great automobile.
christchurch
Details
Model XJ6
Year: 1997
Condition: very good to excellent - no dings, scratches, blems noticeable
Color: Dark Red metallic - good to excellent paint
Inferior: light ivory - immaculate
mileage: 43,600
1)What is your advice on this car?
2)What price would be the buying range?
3)Advice on this "last of the xj6 motor editions?
4)Reliability of this car?
5)Add an extended warrenty? If so, what kind and at what price?
6)Any further advice?
I appreciate your expertise and advice that I might pass it along and "keep him as a friend".
Jags forever!
christchurch
That car sounds like its' Carnival Red over Oatmeal. I happen to have its' identical twin in my driveway as we speak that just turned over 60K miles.
Mine:
It's been a flawless car since purchase.
Few things to check... aside from the obvious.. Make sure that the power adjustment on the steering column works properly. They can fail, and chances are that this car is out of warranty (Well, it's got a 1 in 4 chance, roughly, of still being under factory warranty). This is a $400 or so repair. Also make sure you dont hear a rattle at startup, if so you need to do a timing chain tensioner update to get rid of the noise. If its' not under the campaign.. expect $400 or so there IIRC.
As far as a warranty... if its's available with a select edition by a Jag dealer.. add at least $2K to my prices. Otherwise, pass. I'm not personally a fan of them, but people's tastes differ. I do know that they are at LEAST $2,000.
Pricing onthe car is easy... I don't see a record of that particular car being sold at auction recently, but its' worth roughly $19-20K wholesale and I'd peg its' retail value at $3-4K over that.
Shoot for $22K, but I don't see going over $24,000. Obviously, first offer ought to be closer to $20K.. who knows. If its' a private seller, they tend to have grossly inflated ideas of the cars' worth.
Hope this helps!
Bill
The homework I did on the car revealed a few issues I would appreciate any feedback on.
I spoke with the dealership who performed all of the warranty service on the car. A niggle here, a niggle there, but one issue seemed to be the "air bag" warning light. It was repaired in 2000 but re surfaced at the "certifcation" inspection after the car was traded in (different dealership).
The other somewhat troubling information was that the previous owner complained of a "transmission noise" in 2000 that the dealership couldn't reproduce. This problem was not mentioned by the dealership that performed the "Certification" inspection.
The "Certification" inspection showed that the car needed new front pads and rotors and some duct work under the skid plate (from driving on to a parking stopper). I asked why the car was not accepted for certification. He explained that the cost of bringing the car to "Certified" level coupled with the high trade-in cost may have made the profit margin unattractive to the dealership.
I had the car inspected by a third dealer before purchasing and he mentioned the duct work but said the car was gorgeous otherwise (no mention of the "airbag" light).
All three said the car was never hit.
My local Jaguar service center is ready to do the 30K service and the other work.
I elected to buy the car even with this info because and all of the service managers said that the issues were not major ones and I saved 10k to 15k on the purchase. The car is being shipped to us this week.
Are brakes a problem on the VDP?
Any suggestions if the "airbag" light reappears?
What "transmission noise" should I be listening for?
Can I still "Certify" the car or purchase a warranty extention after the 4 year 50k runs out?
Thanks in advance.
Cost approx $200 with labor.
Congrats! What color? As far as the airbag light... Who's to say, but stuff like that is usually a minor problem. I wouldnt be overly concerned. Trannys are not a problem, maybe the PO (Previous owner) was too.. umm... well, maybe they were "overpicky".
He explained that the cost of bringing the car to "Certified" level coupled with the high trade-in cost may have made the profit margin unattractive to the dealership.
Sounds like BS to me. Also, those trays under the front bumper are always being replaced. I've ripped mine off a bunch of times
As far as the warranty, adding an extended is usually expensive, I don't think that its' possible to add a Select to the car.
Brakes: These cars are very heavy and suck through pads somewhat frequently. Common problem. Probably why sikorski has squeaky brakes.
Bill
We had driven a few XJ's but the dealership was "uncooperative" price-wise. We don't have a formal Jaguar dealership here but the local Lincoln Mercury dealer is trying hard to get one by stocking 4 to 8 used (ahem....pre-owned) cars from California. They are an authorized service center now.
I kind of suspect your comment about the "certified" inspection is correct, although I hear the market for upper end cars in Texas (and many other places) is very soft....with tight margins.
I'll probably shy away from a extended warranty depending on the near term experience with the car. I hope to get by with the $200.00 Leslie mentioned (thanks) for the brakes, that would be great.
Being an owner of a few older British cars, we'll try to stay away from "parking stops".
By the way, I looked up "National Flags" and could not find the exact flag posted with your correspondence. Which of the British territories is your residence?
Regards,
Dave
Dealerships sale Jaguars online. With the
heavy rains and severe flooding in Texas
should Texas dealers be avoided? Besides Carfax
is there any other way to check for flood
damage ?
You can see the country of origin for a flag by holding your cursor over the flag itself for a few seconds.
Good luck and again, welcome.
Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
I scoured the internet for, what hopefully was, the best deal. For some reason Texas is a competitive market. The dealer I purchased from had 99.5% positive comments on E-bay. My experience with them was very pleasant. The real verdict will occur when the car arrives on Friday.
My auto-body person says that the main thing to watch out for in Texas cars is the interior baking in the sun. Try to make sure the car was garaged. Same applies to Southern Cal.
Also, thanks for the tip Pat.
Dave
As far as where the cars come from, if you bought it from TX Mustang sales, he buys at Jaguar Credit auctions all over the country. I know him from the auctions (Im a dealer) and he's picky about what he buys too.
Few of his cars originally came from TX I can tell ya
sho, CarFax is an excellent way of checking for flood damage.
Bill
I would have liked to have known about TX Mustang sales during the process (maybe I should have studied this forum more closely). I purchased the car from Expo Motorcars in Houston. The car was sold originally in the Ft. Worth/Dallas area according to Carfax.
I agree, Carfax is a great tool.
Quick question: Carfax only accepts an exact 17(?) digit VIN. Since I can check as many cars as I wish for a two month period for my $19.95 (money extremely well spent), I tried to check some of the other vehicles I own. I found that some of the older ones ('77 back) do not have the proper amount of digits so Carfax will not accept the entry. Is there a way around this, or is it an issue of the age of the cars?
Dave
I tried running my Vauxhall Velox through carfax, # PASY108534 (Try it if you like
No dice. Apparently it doesnt take cars before 1980 IIRC.
Heck, I wish I could get 2 months for $20... I pay $10 a report with a minumum bill of $50 a month.
Still, it's on every used car they sell out of my franchise. My idea. Gee, for $10 a car allof a sudden its' a lot easier to sell those cars!
I've seen expo motorcars, and I think I saw your car sell. Nice car, I bet you did well pricewise too from what I see. Looks like they're the typical independent. Buy car at auction, clean it, mark it up $2,500, slap it on eBay and flip it in a week. Versus the dealer's Buy it at auction, inspect it, detail it, slap brakes and tires on it and warranty, mark it up $7K, slap it on lot.
IMHO, ya bought the car smart.
Bill
With some of the classics out there, ignorance can be bliss. I've owned a couple of Old Brits that I would have never purchased if the pragmatic side of my brain new their history. I love them now though.
I must have gotten some introductory offer on Carfax. Of course, I'm dealing with the depreciation side of the car business, not the "for profit" side. Carfax must have taken the government approach to billing.......your ability to pay.
They treated me very well at Expo, even after they had the money in the bank they kept the car inside during the rains down there. I'm reserving a total endorsement until I receive the car but the indicators are the right car at a great price. I was just a hair north of center 30's.
I appreciate your exchange and will let you know how the car is once I receive it at the end of this week.
I'll also keep in touch with the "spirited" exchanges on the new "X" series page.
Regards,
Dave
However, when I press mine, the radio display just says "No FM". None of the buttons are programmed. I tried pressing the SCAN button while it was in this mode. It cycled through the dial, locking on stations, but it failed to program anything.
Has anyone successfully programmed their radio this way?
Also, it appears my Automatic Volume Control (AVC) does not work. If I hold the volume button in, the radio "beeps" and the display reads "AVC ON", but no matter what the road noise level, the radio volume never gets louder.
I didn't check this when I bought the car but I had a CD changer installed afterwards. Is it possible I have some loose or unconnected leads off my radio?
Thanks!
Well, I think they know they have a more permanent market with us
97vdpguy: Hold the "A MEM" Button in until it beeps. Hitting it once gives you 6 extra presets which you have to tune in. If you DO Hold the A-Mem button in until it beeps it'll reset the a-mem stations tho.
In the 95/97 I have the FM set up like this:
(Orlando/Tampa/Melbourne FL Stations... Your Mileage May Vary)
1) 93.3
2) 95.3
3) 96.5
4) 98.9
5) 101.1
6) 101.5
A-Mem 1) 101.9
A-Mem 2) 104.1
A-Mem 3) 105.1
A-Mem 4) 105.9
A-Mem 5) 106.7
A-Mem 6) 107.1
In the 97, My dad drives it a lot. So on the 6 presets he has his NPR Drivel, classical and oldies. I have the A-Mem stations.
This way I get to program all the stations I listen to. In the XJR I just hit the seek button on the steering wheel but that can't be reverse-engineered into X300s >:(
As far as the AVC Goes, it ought to work. You have to listen carefully. 40, 70 and I think 100 MPH are the step-up points. I remember it getting louder over 100 or 120. Although I don't suggest doing that to test the radio
Bill
..but honest, officer.. I was just adjusting my radio!
Thanks for the pointers. I'll try them both out (with the exception of the 100MPH test). I could have sworn that the manual said the radio programmed itself with the six strongest FM stations. But the fact that there are no presets in those A-Mem locations would explain why the display reads NO FM when I put it into that mode.
Thanks
Well, he pulled.. Took the screws holding the tray right out of the back of the drivers seat!
Hopefully, the holes aren't stripped.
Next time I put a visitor in the back, I'll personally demonstrate the tray table function.
Do people really eat back there?
It helped immensly. I passed it along to my friend and I think he will join our ranks as a Jaguar "nut". I saw the car and she really is a beauty in that lush red color. Thanks, too, for the picture of your "lady". You two will be the envy of all who look in your direction.
Thanks, too, Bill, and all our Jag friends for all the insightful comments on this XJ site.
When I originated this discussion some months ago I never anticipated that this would be one of the most active on the web. Horay for our Jags and those who love them!
I am happy we are seeing notes each day from "new members of our web and Jaguar family".
Keep the good "times rolling". "Listen to them purr!"
christchurch
I have gone through all of the posts and I have a question. I am looking at a 1995 XJ6. The particulars are: 53,000 miles, traction control, CD changer, heated front seats, sunroof, Harmon Kardon stereo upgrade, Topaz/Oatmeal. I think all the other features are standard on all Jags. The guy is an independent dealer and is asking $18,900 and says he won't budge on the price. I will be having it inspected at the Jag dealer. The car looks extremely clean and drives excellent. Assuming all checks out well with the dealer, is $18,900 an OK price to pay? My research indicates it's not a "steal", but it does seem to be a fairly decent price.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Rick.
ou814: It's not a total steal, but it is a very fair price. On one condition... the car is IMMACULATE. If it's a really nice car, and clean.. I could see that baby doing close to $17K at auction. It's Topaz, It's got harmon/kardon and weather pkg... And 53K on a '95.
For a Jaguar to be worth all the money (I buy about 20 of them at month on a wholesale level) It has to have the four following charachteristics:
1) Color combo. Oh, it's Black with Black Leather in FL? Bad. Topaz and White do the best.
2) Equipment: No traction in CT? Uh Oh.
3) Condition: Uhh, it's been painted down the side? Bad.
4) Miles: Jags get slaughtered, valuewise, by high mileage
So, that car could hit as much as $17K at auction. I've seen them do that recently if they're NICE. And that's the key. Make sure the wood is nice, that it shows little wear (A couple of cracks is normalish). Make sure the leather, carpets, chrome, etc.. that they're all there and nice. Make sure the power steering column works.
Make sure it drives like it ought to.
Follow this link too: http://www.vauxhallpa.50megs.com/paintwork.html
read that.
If it passes muster, tell him $18K cash, NOW. If that fails, try $18,500... But if you like it, $18,900 is a fair price for that car.
Where are you located at? it makes a difference pricewise too.
Bill
I live in Omaha, Nebraska and Jags are VERY difficult to find here. I have been to www.texas-cars.com and their prices are cheaper than here but I'm not so sure I want to drive all the way to Dallas to pick one up. The car I'm looking at is originally from Indiana. It was registered as a lease vehicle and then sold at auction with around 15K miles. Then registered as a lease vehicle again and sold at auction in December 2000 to the guy I'm dealing with now. It was owned by Jaguar leasing before this guy bought it. I got all this info from carfax and the guy I am dealing with. There is nothing negative about it on carfax.
Thanks,
Rick.
Carfax stuff all sounds normal, pretty typical really. The vast (And I mean vast) majority of these cars were leased. Right now, if you are in the market for an S-Type 3.0, buying it would be dumb. The lease is THAT good (.00050 Money factor.. 1.2% or so)
It sounds clean, as long as it hasnt been smashed before... I'd say to go for it if you want to buy locally. I mean, The dealer in KC is very good, but they are expensive. the dealer in St Louis is VERY expensive..
I mean, I'd sum it up this way. Price is fair. Jags are rarely sold for cheap as you may have found If you like the car and are comfortable with the car (It sure sounds nice... the door dings are about 50 each to get fixed, see if he'll at least do that much)...
Go for it! I have 127,000 VERY hard miles on my '95 Vanden Plas and its' been 6 basically troublefree years (Uhh... check on your heater hoses...)
Oh, before you buy it, price a new Camry. I'm not sure you can even get a nice one for 18,900
Bill
Rick.
Have them check to see if the timing chain tensioner update has been done...
Otherwise,... nothing I can think of. Who knows, if it was sold on a secondary lease, it may even have some Select Edition Coverage left! (Much more likely if it has a passenger glovebox.. indicating a later production car). Also make sure the lock cylinder in the trunklid works.
Bill
What kind of deal are your referring to?
Do you like the S series.?
I have been reading mixed reviews about them but,I do love the looks.
Just curious as to what you might advise on the S series and if anyone else has had some experience.
Keep on "Jagin"
christchurch
Typicla residuals... but nearly free money.
I've seen $499/mo/36mos/10Kmi/yr/$2000 out of pocket advertised...
Finance the $45K car at 8%... $2K out of pocket... $900mo/60 mos
Not a bad deal IMHO!
Personally, that being said, I think its' a great car. We have them in the family and the peopledriving them love them.
Bill
A couple of friends have been considering buying the XJ8. They are not in a hurry to trade up.
They are wondering if they should wait for the new XJ which I understand will be "quite the cat".. newest technology and the latest in Jaguar/Ford engineering.
What do you think... price, notwithstanding?
christchurch
From everything I know so far... it's going to be one hell of a machine.
But, probably 2 more years...
Bill