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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • alanmargosianalanmargosian Member Posts: 25
    Well, you don't say what motor or tranny it has. Mileage would tell us more about the price value ($6,000 might be tall money for that car). If you notice "an occaisional jerk" then it is real no matter what your co-workers say. If it's not operating properly, I wonder why the "Check Engine" Lamp isn't lighting up. Those CEL's seem to light up at the drop of a hat...Do ALL the dash lights light up when you turn the ignition on? They should...
  • nscrbugnscrbug Member Posts: 16
    I know this is probably a silly question to ask...especially since I'm the owner of a 99 Beetle plagued with many of the problems discussed here on this forum, but...just out of curiosity...has VW made ANY improvements at all on the 06 models or in their customer service? My NB has been out of warranty for 5 years now, so for most of my problems I just take it to an autoshop that specializes in foreign car repair. The less I have to deal with my dealer, the better! However, I have been seriously contemplating the thought of trading in for a new car and have been pricing out the usual suspects...Mazda3, Scion tC, Civic coupe, Acura RSX, and yes...as much as it pains me to say this, the 06 Beetle. It seems they added lots more features ($$$) from when I got mine back in 99. How is the 2.5L 5cyl engine? Is it as troublesome as the earlier 2.0 and 1.8T engines? I keep telling myself that I would NEVER buy another VW, but here I am considering it! Should I listen to my instincts, and run far away from VW's? :confuse:

    Linda
  • dupiedogdupiedog Member Posts: 2
    The car has a 5 speed stick shift and has 84000 miles on it. The only light that comes on is a water light but it goes off soon after starting the car. My employer is really pushing this car on me, he is having it "spit shined" and really praising the fact that he is "letting me have it under price". My first car (in 1974) was a Beetle and I'm afraid I will let myself get talked into buying this one and could be sorry. I know NOTHING about cars other than turn the key and go so I really appreciate your advice.
  • alanmargosianalanmargosian Member Posts: 25
    My Beetle is a '99 GLS stick with 50k. miles. When you turn the ignition to the ON position, ALL the dash lamps should illuminate, then go dark except the blue TEMP light. If you know little about repairing cars, you should likely avoid this car. Of greatest concern is whether the 60k. mi. service has been performed. This entails the all important timing belt and tensioner changed. Beetles that don't get their prescribed maintenance in a timely fashion seem to exact their revenge in very expensive ways. If this car will have a "salvage" title appended to it, then it would be difficult to resell (and is worth FAR less than a regular used Beetle). Dealer service for these is can be quite expensive as it is. Personally, I am leery of purchasing other people's woes. Buying used Beetles are a real crapshoot as it is. Get as much information on this car as possible (including a CARFAX report). Proceed very cautiously, if at all...
  • fin13fin13 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same thing. it was the level of the coolent went below the level of the sensors. I had to top off the coolent level and have not had it happen since.
  • davidhlddavidhld Member Posts: 1
    Im having ptoblems trying to change my brakes the calipers on the brakes will not stay down long enough for me to install the brakes. I have the special tool to rotate and compress the calipers. Ive disconnected the fluid line and it still springs back before I can do anything. What am I doing wrong?
  • aarnoldaarnold Member Posts: 10
    i have a 2001 vw turbo with a burned out back up light. does any one have a clue as to how to change this light?
  • aarnoldaarnold Member Posts: 10
    my 2001 vw beetle has a trunk light that doesn't work. the light is good but i can't find the fuse. any one have a clue as to where it is and to which one it is?
  • alanmargosianalanmargosian Member Posts: 25
    To change taillamps on our VW's you need to open the hatch. Inside, behind the license plate, beneath the trunk seal area is a short wide interior panel. Try to pull this panel up. Use a screwdriver and pry the clips to remove this panel. Reach behind the quarter panel trim and unscrew the taillight mounting nut by hand. Don't let the washer or spacer fall down. Now you can remove the entire taillight and remove the wire harness. Remove the lamp by turning the lamp holder counter-clockwise...
  • aarnoldaarnold Member Posts: 10
    may be i said it wrong, i am trying to change the reverse light not the tail light.
  • ccinsfccinsf Member Posts: 5
    The dealer is correct. You're way past warranty. I have the same car and the same thing happened to me. I had to replace the alternator. Good Luck
  • ccinsfccinsf Member Posts: 5
    Hi- What was the mileage on the car before your timing belt was replaced? I've inquired with my mechanic (at a VW Dealership) about having my timing belt replaced (98 Beetle- 56k miles) and he's told me they do not need replacement until 100k miles.
  • ccinsfccinsf Member Posts: 5
    Hello-

    I know this is an old posting, but hopefully someone responded prior to me. I own a 98 Beetle-5spd. Hopefully your sister DOES NOT. I have a love/hate relationship with the car... and have gotten used to the fact it has to go into the shop every other month. Since I own mine outright, and don't drive that much, I'm trying to keep it going in order to avoid a new car with new car payments. There are FAR better used car choices than the 98 Beetle. Hopefully you've already found one-
  • alanmargosianalanmargosian Member Posts: 25
    Sorry, no, you didn't say it incorrectly. I read the question incorrectly. My apologies. To remove the back-up lights, I'll quote to you the instructions out of the Bentley manual. It states:

    A) Remove retaining nuts (2) from inside rear bumper.

    B) Remove back-up lights toward rear and disconnect harness connector from back-up lights.

    C) To remove bulb, turn bulb holder counterclockwise and pull out from housing.

    [do not touch the glass potion of the bulb for that may lead to the glass on the lamp to cloud over.]

    Also, about the storage compartment lamp. The fuse is located in position #14. That is to say: third column from the right, three rows down. It's a red, ten amp fuse. This fuse also controls the other interior lights and the remote hatch release. Your fuse box is located on the far left SIDE of the dash. Its face is exposed when you open the driver's door. Hope this helps...
  • alanmargosianalanmargosian Member Posts: 25
    Well, my neighbor three doors down is a long-time service advisor for my local VW dealer. He recommends to change the belt and it's tensioner out at the 60,000mi. service because some of them show near-failure state of wear and aging. He also advises to replace the POS water pump while you're in there because the plastic impeller on the pump has a HIGH failure rate [read: disintegrate]. Roll the dice if you'd like, but don't expect VW of A to help pick up the tab for engine repair ($4,000 - $5,000 by many accounts). The belt cracks and becomes brittle with AGE as well as miles (something to consider for your '98). My '99 with 51K mi. is going in for that work at 60K mi.. Start saving now...
  • ccinsfccinsf Member Posts: 5
    I just took my 98 Beetle (5 spd) to the Dealership and had the exhaust manifold (w/catalytic converter)replaced under warranty. The car has 56k miles and I asked the mechanic about the timing belt. He said it wouldn't need replacing until 100k miles. Is he not telling me the truth? I took it to my local VW Dealership- not an independant garage.
  • ccinsfccinsf Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. I will insist it gets replaced. Does a VW Dealership have to replace it or can I get another mechanic to do the job? Do you have a ballpark estimate of what it will cost? Sorry for all the q's but you seem to know these cars a little better than me-
    Thanks again-
  • alanmargosianalanmargosian Member Posts: 25
    First of all, I'm just a shade-tree mechanic (only do what I'm comfortable with and don't go in any farther than I can back out). As well as owning a Bentley manual (appx. $85 +/-) which is about as thick as the NYC Yellow Pages and well worth ten times that in information, I engage in conversations with other New Beetle owners. Page 0-28 in the Bentley manual (Holy Bible) states:
    "Volkswagen does not specify a replacement interval for the camshaft drive belt on the 2.0L gasoline engine. However, the publisher recommends the belt be inspected periodically and replaced at least every 90K miles or 5 years."
    "To inspect the toothed belt, the upper section of the toothed belt guard must first be removed. Inspect belt for tears, separation of layers, fraying of belt cords, surface cracks, or traces of oil and grease. Replace if any faults are found"
    __________________________________

    Measured width of timing belt
    *wear limit............22 mm. (0.866 in.)

    Please note the 5 years time-frame for your '98

    The hidden buggaboo is the belt tensioner which is another POS part that will cause your belt to skip teeth and ruin your pistons and valves (hence the $4,000 - $5,000 repair bill). I'm not trying to be an intellectual about these matters, rather, I'm only passing along reliable information to help you and others get the most enjoyment from your New Beetle for the least amount of money and headache (and heartache)... Alan
  • alanmargosianalanmargosian Member Posts: 25
    Your VW isn't the only one who can perform this service, but I certainly would want a qualified person to put their wrench in my car. If I remember correctly, it's about $600. Call your VW dealer's Service Department and ask (prices could vary widely). Other NB owners have done it themselves in about 4-5 hours nad about $125 for the belt (tensioner extra?). Don't forget to do the waterpump. If you're doing it yourself, there is an aftermarket pump with metal impeller blades online somewhere (but your dealer will not install non-genuine VW parts, conversely, their work is guaranteed...

    Call around for prices.
  • muskokalogmuskokalog Member Posts: 1
    I have problems with the diagnostic sensors going off 1st the MIL lamp indicator and now coolant overheating (flashing red), car is running fine, coolant level fine, belt and fan fine..........anyone else have faulty sensors, what do you do just drive on? :)
  • sadbug03sadbug03 Member Posts: 4
    Just on the principal that the company refuses to accept any of the many electricla woes or take responsibile corrective action I would never recommend a VW.
  • sadbug03sadbug03 Member Posts: 4
    Bought one for my wife cause it was "cute"...what it really is is a real headache , breaks easily, expensive to repair.and unreliable.
  • alanmargosianalanmargosian Member Posts: 25
    The likely culprit is the waterpump. The POS waterpump has a plastic impeller that is famous for shattering (which means even though you have coolant, it is not circulating within the system. The flashing red lamp means STOP DRIVING NOW! If you continue to drive during this malfunction mode, you will likely warp the valve head and/or bust the head gasket. I can't tell from your post what year your car is, what engine you have or how many miles are on it. It's one of those repairs that are labor intensive (read: expensive) and if your car is near 60,000 mi. or more than 5 years old you should change the timing belt and especially the belt tensioner (another POS part). If you do it yourself, expect to spend the weekend on it and have plenty of tools, a Bentley shop manual, (and beer) on hand. I would have the dealer or a real qualified mechanic diagnose it first. Other possibilities are a broken cooling fan temp sensor or perhaps just the fuse that operates the fan. When you open the hood , look at the battery. There is a small black plastic fuse holder on top of it. Pop that baby open with a screwdriver (or whatever). Of those three green fuses on the upper right hand corner, the one on the left is one of those that govern the cooling fan(s). To the left there are five exposed metal fuse strips. The one in the center is the other one that governs the cooling fan(s). Since you have all of your coolant, you apparently can rule out a blown headgasket or broken radiator hose. Good luck...
  • todd17todd17 Member Posts: 4
    For the benefit of others, this turned out to be the water pump propeller. The plastic thing broke off. My mechanic charged me $529.00 to replace the pump with one that had a metal propeller and change the timing and serpentine belts while he had everything apart. He also changed the temp sensor just to play it safe since the old sensor had gotten pretty hot.
  • alanmargosianalanmargosian Member Posts: 25
    Thanks for the feedback, todd17. You've got a good mechanic there! Is he in the Sacramento area by chance? We all benefit when we find out the results of others' experiences...
  • chuckles1chuckles1 Member Posts: 1
    My wife has a 98 Bettle that she decided to try to jump a curb with. When she didnt get over it, she backed up and ripped the front bumper off and in the process toasted the radiator.
    long/short I am replacing and can not get the intake and outtake flanges off the old to put on the new.Can anybody tell me how to get those off or should I just go buy new ones for it?
  • todd17todd17 Member Posts: 4
    My mechanic is located in Boise Idaho. Car is still running great.
  • alanmargosianalanmargosian Member Posts: 25
    Not enough detail in your post. I am assuming you are referring to a 2.0 gas engine. If you are referring to the brackets that hold the radiator to the framing on the driver's side, there is a bolt (like a set screw) on the front-side of each bracket. Then, it appears, that the radiator should pull away towards the passenger side of the car. When you replace the radiator, tighten those bracket bolts back to 7 ft/lbs...
  • yellow7yellow7 Member Posts: 2
    Hello :sick:
    I have a 2000 GLS 1.8T beetle. I am having the worst luck with this car.. The latest thing. My car started acting funny and the lights started getting dim and the car almost shut off.. But then it started running again. I decided it would be okay to drive to work. Well it wasn't. All of my lights turned on and my speedo stopped working.. Then my gas pedal stopped working and the car died. I am having a new alternator put in. I am wondering if this was the only problem?? Any one else with similar problem?? :confuse:
  • alanmargosianalanmargosian Member Posts: 25
    Sounds like the ignition switch may be failing but first, I would call around to your local auto parts stores and find out who will check your charging system (battery, alternator and voltage regulator) to see if it is functioning properly. From my observations of conversations among other New Beetle owners, these ignition switches have a history of failure with symptoms similar to the ones you have described here.
  • yellow7yellow7 Member Posts: 2
    We just had a new battery put in because the old one was for sure bad. The alternator has been tested and they say it is bad.. I just wanted to get an idea of what other possibilities just in case this alternator doesn't solve the problem. Any ideas on price for the ignition switch??
  • chadrappchadrapp Member Posts: 35
    My 02 Beetle will not shift out of park. The EPS light is on. Has anyone had a problem with this? PLease help.
  • chadrappchadrapp Member Posts: 35
    In my previous post it should have read EPC light on not EPS.
    Thanks
  • bugger3bugger3 Member Posts: 2
    Yes I sure have. Just picking mine up today from dealer. It has to do with a switch that is conected to the brake pedal that releases the shifter. It was $178.00 at the dealer. Try only turning the key one click and moving the shifter that may release it. Regards Myrna
  • bugger3bugger3 Member Posts: 2
    The dealer says there is a part in the spoiler that is cracked and it will be $1000.00 to replace it. Anyone else have this problem. Only 32000 miles and been driven carefully. Bugger3
  • tzbugtzbug Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Beetle that does the same thing. And it only hesitates when I go from reverse to drive. The dealer ship told me it is because the transmission is cold. I don't think that is it so if anyone finds a solution to this problem please let me know.
  • alarmed1alarmed1 Member Posts: 1
    I stumbled across this thread while searching for an answer....it's good to know that I'm not the only person who is disliked by their car!

    I have a 98' new beetle and my alarm fails to disarm even when unlocked with the master key. When this happens, I look like a fool trying to lock/unlock/lock the car to reset the alarm. I found that opening the trunk of the car breaks the electrical circuit enough to start the car without the alarm going off. However, I've taken it in on three separate occasions to two different VW dealers and they find no problem with the electrical system or the alarm. Imagine the looks I received when I told them that I had to open the trunk, get in the car, start the car, unlock the doors and close the trunk in order not to set off the alarm!! It chaps me that they smugly tell me that there's no problem.

    I'm pretty sure this is an electrical malfunction as it tends to happen more frequently when the air is either very wet or there has been a fair amount of temperature fluctuation overnight and the car often shocks me when I get out. I'm going to keep hunting for a solution. If anyone has found one...I'd love to know. My boyfriend thinks I'm obsessive compulsive with all the key turning and repetitive door shutting. :confuse:
  • chadrappchadrapp Member Posts: 35
    Had the car towed to the dealer. It was the brake sensor or something like that. Luckily warranty covered it. Hope this won't be a recurring problem. Thanks for the help guys.
  • todd17todd17 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the link on Headlight and Bulb Replacement. The details were great the the bulb change was a piece of cake (15min job). The only thing I'd add is that once you find the knob that releases the headlight assembly, there is also a plastic lock, right next to it that needs to be pushed in in order for the knob to slide up. There was some light brown glue/paint seal on mine that had to be scratched off before the knob would slide. Small screwdriver did the trick just fine. Don't push it too hard or it will break off.
  • katiebugkatiebug Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same trouble. It started that i couldnt go over 75 now i cannot go over 60 miles per hour. It takes a while for it to change gear, making my engine rev pretty loudly. Sometimes when i am trying to get my car up to speed if i push it too hard or too fast my check engine light starts blinking and my car loses power...like it goes from 45 to 20 in like 2 seconds. Anyone know what causes this?
  • emcaemca Member Posts: 1
    Is anyone else driven CRAZY by the LOUD alarm for the seat belts? I wear my seat belt faithfully, but am bothered by the alarm that goes off when the car starts and whenever I am just sitting in the car with the engine on (say, in the carpool). Is there any way to disconnect this annoying thing?
  • rcbbmanrcbbman Member Posts: 1
    About a week ago I noticed my left headlight was out when I was driving, but when I turned on the light switch, both lights worked. Today all driving and headlights went out. I checked fuses, they look good. I don't believe the bulbs are burned out, anyone have a answer?
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Member Posts: 462
    Possible headlight problems.

    1) bad/poorly grounded or broken wire in headlight circuit
    2) bad headlight relay
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    To answer your question, you got a defective vehicle that IS and SHOULD be falling apart as a natural consequence of poor parts and assembly quality control during manufacture. So it is safe to say that your Beetle "performs as designed and built".
  • margot1margot1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Beetle with MANY of the same problems as posted here - electric, O2 sensors, catalytic converter, power windows, and on and on....yesterday my oil light went on - it was just barely 3000 miles since the last oil change and was going in soon for a change...I checked the oil with the dipstick-no oil on the stick!! I took it in for the oil change, and the mechanic (not dealer) said there was no leak in the filter or anywhere else he could see...but that I probably should have it looked at...I'm planning to get rid of it in the next month or so, so I'm upset about a potentially expensive repair...any ideas before I take it to the dealer????
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    A few questions: Did you check the oil with the engine cold? if you check it right after the engine is shut off, a lot of oil is still trapped in the cylinder head and other oil passages and it takes some time for hte oil to flow back to the sump. So the indicated vele on the dipstick will be lower.

    Did you check the oil with the car level? When parked on a slop sideways, the oil reading may vary significantly.

    Now for oil leaks:

    Assuming your car engine does not burn oil, there has to be an oil leak for the oil to gradually disappear. Typical oil leaks are around the oil drain plug, oild filter, oil pressure sender, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket, and front or rear crankshaft oil seal, or even camshaft seal.

    You would be oil dripping on the ground overnight if you has a significant oil leak. Do you notice any oil puddles under your car?
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Member Posts: 462
    The oil consumption issue of the 2-liter engine in the Beetle is well documented. The engine-cylinder rings never quite seat right resulting in the oil loss. Just do a search on oil consumption/oil loss in this thread. I need to add one to two quarts of oil between oil changes in my wife's Beetle.

    Now add in 7 years of wear on those rings (for your 99 Beetle) and I could see how all of the oil is consumed in 3000 miles. You wouldn't need an external oil leak to lose it all.

    Really, you need to check the oil level regularly in those Beetles ! Otherwise you just might run into big problems.
  • brain420brain420 Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to figure out if anyone on here can help me. I am trying to replace my antenna mount on my car. Long story short, it was ripped off and I really dont want to pay an arm and a leg for a repairman to fix it. i understand it takes a while to get the problem fixed, and some patience as well. But if anyone on here has knowledge of or has replaced and antenna any tips would be appreciated.
    Thank you.
  • slelgan1slelgan1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 New Beetle with about 33,000 mi. It has operated just fine until now. The headlight went out about a week ago and then a couple days ago I came home and got out to check the mail accross the street and then when I started it up, it coughed, but was able to turn around and park for me. The next morning I went out to start it and it started up just fine and then 3 seconds later, just died as though I turned it off. I did it again and the same result, started right up, went for 3 or 4 seconds and then died, i've done it about 5 times since then with the same result. I had the same problem before when I had a new key that wasn't programmed, the only difference was the little light with the key in the beetle was blinking indicating that it was a bad key. It wasn't doing that this time, so the key seems fine, I verified that by trying my other key.
    So I'm just up in the air about it. I can't tell if there is an error because all of the error lights light up before you start it, but after it is all done, it seems like the EPC and the check engine lights stay on, but again, I don't know if that is because there is a problem or if it is because it is turned off waiting to restart. Very strange. I even just went out and bought the new light to see if that was causing some short somewhere in the electrical system....well, I replaced the headlight and still does the same thing...turns on, runs for 3-5 seconds...then promptly shuts off by itself. Quite frustrating.
    If there is anyone with any ideas I'd appreciate it because the closest VW dealer is 55 miles away and i'd rather not have to have it towed there if i can avoid it. Thanks.
  • tbone76tbone76 Member Posts: 8
    I just had my timing belt replaced at an independent shop.They broke off 3 bolts on the water pump while changing that out.I got stuck with 3 hours more labor cost,But they claimed they had to bite the farm with 2 additional hours they spent retapping things out.
    Then that same evening the MOL Light comes on at the instrument panel.I take it back to the shop.All the codes are checked thru the computer and it states a catalytic convertor sensor could be the problem.The shop reset the code,and I hope it does not come on again.Well I guess thats what I get when I buy a used Beetle with 104.000 miles.
    The mechanic stated that the timing belt was original and had never been replaced before.Wow talk about taking chances.The shop said that the 2.0 Engine year 2000 and above should last until 105,000 miles, under that year should be replaced at 60 to 80,000 miles.
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