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Comments
thanks tons!
-Tiff.
Did you receive a response on this question...for I have the same problem.
Thanks
Scooper007
I am trying to get all my facts as I am looking to get ride of a 2005 accord which has gone through many problems including 2 transmissions in 12000 miles.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
A few hours later Car X calls me and tells me that I need a new battery. Sounds right to me, and I told them to do it. A few hours later they call and tell me that the car will not run properly and it won’t stay in idle. Car X then tells me that they contacted the Volkswagen dealership and they said that I need to bring my car to them so they can reset the electronic setting to factory standards.
So the next day I pay for my new battery $126.59, Car X then tells me they tried everything to try to get it working, and I have my car towed to Tom Wood Volkswagen dealership service department. As I bring it in I tell the guy what has happened and he says that if that’s the problem they can fix it 15 minutes. He goes and gets a technician and this gentleman hooks a “computer” up under my dashboard and tells me that is not the problem. He says that the windows and radio should be working and there were not. I then had to wait till Monday till the dealership could get a look at it.
On Monday my service advisor calls me to tell me that my Throttle Module has gone bad and need a new one. Ok, I agreed to have the work done. A few hours later he calls back saying that when they installed to new throttle module it still wouldn’t work and found that two electronic modules have been completely fried and need to be replaced. WOW, what happened? I asked him what could have caused this. He tells me two things:
A cross jump
Laying a tool across the battery
After waiting a few days for them to order the parts needed he presents me with my $2,271.95 bill!!! My bill reads:
CUSTOMER STATES THE BATTERY WAS JUST REPLACED.
READATP THOTTLE MUDULE .5
DIO W/5052 FOUND A SPRATIC FAULT IN THE THROTTLE MODULE
OPERATION, DIO FOUND MODULEWAS FAULTY: INSTALLED NEW
MODULE, WOULD NOT ADAPT; FURTHER INSPECTION FOUND MULTIPLE
ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS IN VEHICLE; UPEN FURTHER TESTING, FOUND
THAT THE ECM WAS MALFUNCTIONG DUE TO A VOTAGE SPIKE IN
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM; ALSO FOUND THAT THE CONVIENCE CONTROL
MODULE HAD BEEN DAMAGED
INSALLED NEW ECM. INSTALLED NEW CCM. INSTALLED & ADAPTED
RETESTED-OPERATION TO MANUFACTURER SPECS
NOTE: CAUSE OF FAILURE REPATED TO VOLTAGE SPIKE WHICH CAN BE CAUSED FORM JUMPT STARTING VEHICLE INCORRECTLY
I ask him if my jumping the car could have caused this he says no because I then drove the car after the jump and the voltage spike would have to be instant. He then tells me that I should talk to Car X because he thinks that something might have happened there. But when I talk to Car X they deny that they did any thing that might have caused it. So my question is this:
Did I do something that might have caused the voltage spike?
Did Car X do something?
Is it just normal wear and tear and no outside influence caused the damage?
Please help me determine who is to blame or what is at fault.
dude[tte], do you work as a "cooler" at the vegas tables? ok, seriously, i put 55k on each of two recent VWs and brakes were barely half worn on each - it's gotta be city driving vs highway driving. or your incessant drifting demos.
trekkieted, great googly moogly your experience stinks like an interstellar methane cloud. indeed it appears likely that the Car X shop was staffed with Klingons who unintentionally zapped your VWs electrical system or were tricked into zapping it by the wily Romulans.
also, those ECM modules can get zapped by static electricity - they can self-zap randomly.
unfortunately there's no way to prove that the Klingon mechanics did it or whether the "binars" from the first ST:TNG episode did it.
KathyC best wishes with the honda. but you know you really want to try the VW. live a little. live on the edge. be the ball. get the beetle diesel and 44 mpg and enjoy its freakishly large side windows. there are a still a few new NB diesels on dealer lots. i just bought one for my spouse but my overwhelming macho-ness prevents me from ever driving it myself.
i learned to drive in a 65 bug back when it was cool for males to drive beetles. it was super but not a 'super beetle' or as super as that old beetle you had, girl!
On the face of it, the '99 seems to be a good price for that car (because you are buying low miles as well). It is the base model Beetle. The CEL means that one of the many sensors located throughout the car has detected a reading that falls outside the normal tolerance that is deemed acceptable for normal operation. I would assume that the owner/car lot has already had this checked but is not disclosing the reading (and what it means) to you (after all, would you try to sell a car with the CEL on? Do you think that the CEL coincidently came on for the first time when you started it?). You can take this car to one of several auto parts chains that will read the code through a OBD II scanner for free to obtain the four-digit fault code. The better device for reading these fault codes is a VAG-COM which can be purchased online (about$250). The VAG-COM is what the dealers use to scan the on-board computer for codes, but typically will charge up to one hour's labor to perform that service ($$$). With some code scanners, one can "turn off" the CEL without resolving the cause of the code. The CEL may return immediately or at some later inconvenient time if the cause wasn't corrected. Tracking the cause for the fault code could be an involved process.
A new clutch at 48K miles seems quite early but I suppose that's just a reflection of the previous owner's driving style. I imagine that most of the maintenance history for this car is "missing" so I would pay a couple of hundred dollars to a VOLKSWAGEN dealer for the peace-of-mind that all the components are there, check the cause for the CEL code, and is in typical condition for this year of car. Also, go online to CARFAX (with VIN in hand) and pay the fee to learn if this car has any issues. Many flooded-out cars from New Orleans have been "cleaned-up" and appeared for resale nationwide. This car may have a salvage title (not yet disclosed to you), been involved in a fire, or could have been involved in a reported collision.
The Bentley manual (fat shop manual available for public purchase for about $80 +/-) states that the timing belt should be replaced at 60K miles or five-years. A failure of this belt will result in a catastrophic engine failure. This can be replaced at the dealer for about $650 along with the tensioner, serpentine belt(operates alternator, A/C compressor, P/S pump etc.) and water pump (plastic impeller blades deteriorate with age and will shatter). Other than those caveats, all should be well. I'm 53, have owned my '99 w/ 54K miles since new and have enjoyed many fun and trouble-free miles. These cars are a blast to drive, the styling is timeless and has many amenities that are simply missing for cars of this size class (also is the safest car for this size-class).
With the help of a Bentley manual (indispensable) and online forums, you can perform a variety of duties yourself (yes, it is possible to do the timing belt yourself) and learn how to gain access behind cosmetic panels without enduring frustration and remorse.
Be sure to do what any potential buyer of ANY used car should do. Get this checked-out by a dealer(they know what to look for)!
Good Luck...Alan
I live in GA, the lemon law does not help to return my car...beacuse it have not even been in the shop yet (i SUPPOSED TO HAVE AN APPOINMENT WITH THEM TO FIX IT NEXT TUESDAY, BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME UP TO DAY)
Together with that they sold me the car with a contract that is subject to aproval, and they just ask me after a week that they need that my co signer have to go like primary...because my credit is not enough so I have to do paper work again..will that be my way to finish with this nightmare?
So if i refuse to make a new contract they just have to keep the car, and thay don't suppose to charge nothing to me?
I need help as soon as possible, if someone know about this, or had the same situation I will apreciate advises...I do not wanna keep a "new problem car"
please help :sick: :lemon:
I live in GA, the lemon law does not help to return my car...beacuse it have not even been in the shop yet (i SUPPOSED TO HAVE AN APPOINMENT WITH THEM TO FIX IT NEXT TUESDAY, BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME UP TO DAY)
Together with that they sold me the car with a contract that is subject to aproval, and they just ask me after a week that they need that my co signer have to go like primary...because my credit is not enough so I have to do paper work again..will that be my way to finish with this nightmare?
So if i refuse to make a new contract they just have to keep the car, and thay don't suppose to charge nothing to me?
I need help as soon as possible, if someone know about this, or had the same situation I will apreciate advises...I do not wanna keep a "new problem car"
please help
I live in GA, the lemon law does not help to return my car...beacuse it have not even been in the shop yet (i SUPPOSED TO HAVE AN APPOINMENT WITH THEM TO FIX IT NEXT TUESDAY, BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME UP TO DAY)
Together with that they sold me the car with a contract that is subject to aproval, and they just ask me after a week that they need that my co signer have to go like primary...because my credit is not enough so I have to do paper work again..will that be my way to finish with this nightmare?
So if i refuse to make a new contract they just have to keep the car, and thay don't suppose to charge nothing to me?
I need help as soon as possible, if someone know about this, or had the same situation I will apreciate advises...I do not wanna keep a "new problem car"
please help
Anyway, I am thinking to buy a brand new engine, and am wondering if anyone here can tell me the best source for a factory new engine. I don't plan on buying form this dealer.
I would consider used if anyone has a low mileage good runner.
I live in GA, the lemon law does not help to return my car...beacuse it have not even been in the shop yet (i SUPPOSED TO HAVE AN APPOINMENT WITH THEM TO FIX IT NEXT TUESDAY, BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME UP TO DAY)
Together with that they sold me the car with a contract that is subject to aproval, and they just ask me after a week that they need that my co signer have to go like primary...because my credit is not enough so I have to do paper work again..will that be my way to finish with this nightmare?
So if i refuse to make a new contract they just have to keep the car, and thay don't suppose to charge nothing to me?
I need help as soon as possible, if someone know about this, or had the same situation I will apreciate advises...I do not wanna keep a "new problem car"
please help
This is a 2001 beetle 2.0L.
Thanks!
:confuse:
However, the main reason for this message is that a couple weeks ago, the left clear plastic front headlight cover popped off while I was driving and was demolished. Since then I have been trying to find the replacement for only the clear plastic cover, since no damage was done to the front headlight or any electronics. I only have found replacements for the total headlight assembly, and this would be unnecessary and too costly. Does anyone know how I could remedy this problem? HELP ME!
New Beetles have had faulty brake light switches which are located at the brake pedal. There is a certain procedure that must be followed to install it correctly or else the new one may be damaged as well. When inserting the new switch, did you turn it until it "clicked" into position? If not, your new switch won't behave any differently that the old one...
My car's alarm is going off without without me pushing a button. No one is near it and nothing is touching it. It goes off every 3 minutes consistently for about 30 minutes (and stops after the 30 seconds span). It goes off in the middle of the night. I don't know what is triggering it. I have had to leave my trunk not completely closed so that way the alarm isn't 'activated' and the alarm won't go off in the middle of the night...my neighbors are going to smack me pretty soon....help...what is the problem???
Anyone with any suggestions????Thanks :confuse: