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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    hi peebs. no i am not suggesting the existing/lost keyfobs would become deprogrammed just due to being misplaced.
    but i understand the fact is that if I get a *new* keyfob, then the two misplaced/lost ones would no longer function, at least not the "remote" part - they would have first to be reprogrammed at $100 each.
    thanks for the headsup re Radio code...
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    hili, here are some ideas:
    - think of it as a feature not a bug. some people pay extra to have the vehicle beep beep beep when in reverse. :|
    - emergency brake could be misadjusted. if you leave the e-brake on purposely/a-little, does that eliminate the brake squeak.
    - a possible workaround is to back the car into the garage for its overnight rest. a possible downside to that is stinky/dangerous fumes in the garage each morning on egress.
    none of my 5 VW TDIs had/has exhibited this problem, including 06 new beetle.
  • iheartuga119iheartuga119 Member Posts: 1
    I drive a 99 VW Beetle. It's got about 94,000 miles. This morning my oil light started flashing, just for a minute or so, and then turned off. I'm only about 1500 miles over an oil change. Could there be something electrical that is wrong that would make this light come on? If not, how soon does the light come on and how long do I have until it HAS to be changed? Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    From your description... it sounds as if the flasning oil lamp was when you first started a cold engine. My first thought is WRONG OIL IN THE ENGINE! You did not say which engine you have but you should be validating that the proper oil was put into your engine.

    As a reminder... the oil light is NOT an indicator of how MUCH oil is in your engine. Instead, it is telling how much oil PRESSURE is being applied to the bearings. If ther pressure is too low, the lamp comes on. Extremely low pressure will flash the light.

    Make no mistake... the oil light being on means IMMENINENT DANGER for your engine. A flashing light is even MORE severe. Never never NEVER drive with oil light on or you may be looking for a new engine soon.

    One minuite of flashing may the the equivalant of about 50,000 miles of instant engine wear. (the engine is self-destructing with metal-to-metal contact on the bearings and cams)
  • my99beetlemy99beetle Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 beetle gls in the morning when i start it the temp light comes on and stays on till the car has warmed up. what does this mean
  • elisa2elisa2 Member Posts: 6
    Hello,
    I just had the mechanic put a brand new carburetor in my 73 Beetle and it is hesitating when I try to accelerate in all gears. This doesn't happen consistently but for sure to happen more often and intensely when the engine is cold. The mechanic sees condensation (water) in the carb and thinks that's the problem. He's already adjusted timing, choke, etc. Does this sound right? Should a brand new carb have this problem? The acceleration is also very flat in 3rd gear. :(
  • elisa2elisa2 Member Posts: 6
    Sorry Folks, it's a 1972.
    Elisa
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    A brand-new carberator needs to be TUNED to the engine. Especially an older engine which may have changed its intake-charactoristics since it was new. It is unrealistic to expect a carberator "out of the box" to be setup properly for your particular engine.

    What you describe sure sounds like it is leaning out too much under accelleration. A too-lean mixture can also lead to melted pistons due to heat buildup. (LEAN = HOT engine)

    One way or another, the main jets need to be set a tad richer for the midrange/accelleration circuits.

    The fact that you encounter this with a cold engine might be considerd "normal". Carberated engines rarely run well when cold. A properly-tuned carberator can minimize this flat-spot.

    The advent of fuel-injected engines has made many of us forget how poorly carberated engines used to run while cold.

    The condensation in the venturi is a well-known phenomena. Those water-droplets are from the AIR (not your fuel). It is often referred to as carberator-icing. Under certain atmospheric conditions, the watervapor in the air will fall out of suspension and condense inside carb. Car engines are susceptible to icing. It has to do with the drop in temperature caused by the faster flow of air in the venturi of the carburetor, combined with amount of moisture in the air. Many carberated engines had a special intake-tube that pre-heated the intake air by drawing it past the exhaust manifold. This helped reduce carberator-icing phenomena.

    It sure sounds to me as if your "mechanic" may not be well-versed in carberated engines. Virtually all of your complaints can be "tuned out" by properly adjusting the carberator settings.

    Again, i warn you -- Leaving your carberator adjusted so lean may burn up your engine. (especially since it is air-cooled) All good engine-tuners will start on the RICH side of the tuning-band and sneak-up to a leaner setting.... This is to minimize the possiblity of melting an enigne while getting it tuned. A proper carb. setup may take several days (or weeks) of "tune-n-test".
  • lisah0328lisah0328 Member Posts: 1
    Wow! I just noticed the date on this thread. I'm going to try to post anyway. Maybe it will help someone with the same problem. I too had the same problem. I started smelling a musty smell and dirt smell. I remembered my mechanic had told me of some things that may start going wrong with the car and things to look for. He told me about the "air cabin filter". When you circulate the air through, by pushing the circulate button beside the air conditioning button. That filter gets dirty and has to be replaced. When they took mine out, it was full of dirty leaves that had got stuck in it. They sprayed some lysol on the new one and then my car smelled fresh and so much better.
  • elisa2elisa2 Member Posts: 6
    Thank you, BPeebles. I don't know if he adjusted the carb lean or not--but he did talk about adding a tube which sounded a lot like what you're talking about--this intake-tube that preheats intake air. He said he has a lot of old bugs on his farm that he could search around for one that has this intake tube and give it to me for no charge. He may charge me for labor, which is okay. I don't know why the new carb doesn't come with this intake tube if this is a common problem? Where it stands now, is that I am supposed to call him to see how his last adjustment was (the third one)and talk about him searching for this intake tube. How do I ask him about the lean issue? I don't want to sound like I think he doesn't know what he is doing. I think he does know what he is doing as he is a respected Beetle mechanic. One issue he raised, sort of, was when I took him driving, he noted that I drive slower than him. He guns the gas pedal, I slowly push it down. So he pushes thru any hesitation while you can clearly feel the Bug buck/hesitate during the early parts of the acceleration while I drive. I still didn't think that should happen despite it being a carb engine. Am I unrealistic? I found the followin info on-line. What do you think?:
    "Fuel: According to Rob Boardman, the hesitation problem is almost certainly a lean-burn thing. VWs like a fractionally rich mix -- they don't like lean burn conditions. A larger main jet in the carburetor will provide a richer mix and may help the problem. Also, Rob advises the use of a brand-name fuel with at least 91 octane (more aromatics and less methyl tertiary-butyl ether - MTBE - to achieve the higher octane. Only the 1200cc engines and the newest low-compression factory (Mex/Brazilian) engines are happy on 87 octane gasoline. Carburetor: Spitting/sputtering/cracking is an indication of the fuel/air mixture being too lean. The engine speed (RPM) at which the problem occurs tells which jet needs to be changed. Test the engine's performance through the range of 1000-4000 RPM, paying attention to steady throttle position through this range.
    • If the engine runs good at 3000-4000 rpm but stumbles elsewhere, the correct main jet is being used, and the problem lies somewhere else. If the hesitation problem occurs at higher rpm (2500-4000), a larger main jet needs to be installed. If the main jet doesn't solve it, try the accelerator pump (see below).
    • If the stumbling occurs at 2000 RPMs and lower, a larger idle jet may need to be installed to enrichen the mixture. (Don't go much beyond 65, however.)
    • If you have an 009 centrifugal-advance distributor, a larger main jet may sometimes help to compensate for the flat spot inherent with this distributor. The standard jet is 127.5 (in a 34PICT/3 carburetor); try a 130 or even larger.

    What are these "jets" that you are talking about, are they part of the carb or part of the engine? You mentioned "main jets", The article above talks about "idle jets" and "larger jets". Since I experience the hesitation when I first accelerate, am I correct that the article suggests my "larger idle jet" is the issue? I really appreciate your help with this. Oh yeah, and am I interpreting the meaning of "flat" correctly? I am thinking that refers to no acceleration while I have the pedal to the floor in the third gear.
  • elisa2elisa2 Member Posts: 6
    BPeebles, we haven't even touched the issue of distributors. :cry:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    To answer your question about what is a "jet" which we are talking about...

    The carberator contains small orfices thru which fuel is metered. These are precisely-sized holes usually drilled in brass. These are called "jets" which are a critical part of the tuning process of any carberator.

    I do not have the space here to teach you every nuance in the art of carberator operation...but here is a synopsys

    The role of a carberator is to precisely mix automized fuel droplets with air as the engine sucks the air thru it. All carberators have a venturi. This is an area where the airflow is forced to flow thru a narrowed opening. The laws of physics says that faster-flowing air has less pressure. This lower pressure sucks fuel thru one or more jets into the airstream. The fuel is also atomized into droplets at the same time.

    Most carberators have at least 3 "circuits". Each circuit may have its own jet.
    1)Idle.
    2)mid throttle.
    3)full throttle.

    Each of these circuits are "tunable" usually by adjusting the size of the jets thru which the fuel is meterd. There is also some amount of overlap between these circuits so changing one jet can affect the other settings. Some jets are adjusted with a screw... other jets are "fixed" and must be replaced with larger/smaller jets to make an adjustment.

    Also, there is usually an accelleration pump. When the gaspedal is pushed down, a small amount of fuel is squirted into the carberator to assist in accelleration. (reduce sudden lean condition because air changes speed easier than liquid gasoline during changes in throttle openeing) Yes - this is often called a "flat spot" during accelleratin.

    The above is just a simple explanation... Some carberators may have emulsion-tubes, power jets, slide valves, Constant-vacuum, constant-venturi, float-level settings, idle-bypass circuit, dashpot adjustments, multiple 'barrels', air jets, tickler valves, needle valves... the list goes on.

    (Yes... I have been working on carberators since I was about 8 years old)
  • elisa2elisa2 Member Posts: 6
    Bpeebles,
    Thank you, that helps a lot in conceptualizing what is happening. On Friday, I told my mechanic to go ahead and find the tube for intake air issue and then he said, "you mean the air filter?" Now what is he talking about it? What does the air filter have to do with pre-warming the air to prevent condensation? And for clarification, I should use the term "flat spot in 3rd gear" when I tell the mechanic that I have very little umph/accerlation in that gear? Thanks again!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The intake-air heater is usually fed into the airfilter housing. (Air is heated BEFORE it reaches the airfilter.)

    Note that heating the intake air was often used to improve running in cold weather. It is most often considerd BAD for power to heat the intake air. (because colder air is more dense... thus has more oxygen in it)

    Most intake-air heating systems only operate for a short time... then thermostaticly close off the heated air to allow cold air into the engine for most of the time.

    Yes - "flat spot in 3rd gear" would tell most mechanics that it is lacking accelleration in 3rd gear.

    Also, be aware that all carberator tuning must be done with plumbing and air filters installed.... the tuning will change each time somthing else changes. Carberators are VERY sensitive to any changes in the intake-air plumbing because they operate based on pressure-differental.
  • elisa2elisa2 Member Posts: 6
    Bpeebles,
    I can't thank you enough for the education. Yes, that is exactly what my mechanic was talking about. Heating the air prior and then it automatically shuts off. I have to assume he knows to readjust carb after installing this intake air heating system. I drive myself crazy enough by doubting people's abilities all the time. Thanks, again. :)
  • rleuschenrleuschen Member Posts: 3
    I boughtsrame car for my daughter speedo does same thing tranny also slips when cold and sarting usualy first time you move. The HAynes vw manuel says you can access the speedometer by jacking car up. I couldn't find it, Looks like transmission range swnsor is below airbox, an danother one sits on transaxle in front side of transaxle. I hadn't thought much abouy cluster. I have learned that the speedometer sensor also part of engine control system
    Check engine light goes on and off Po422, and P1582,p0102,p0112. No help from dealers they want to scan and repair only themselves.
  • indigojackindigojack Member Posts: 1
    (2003-turbo betle-17" low profile tires)I've noticed a shimmy that becomes more pronounced when I accelerate (60 - 65 mph). I have replaced the tires but the problem still exists. I have also begun to notice a squeaking sound that comes and goes as well as a new "click" (metal to metal) when staring from a stop (this too is sporadic). A 2nd appointment with the dealer has been made but I would appreciate any information.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    CV joint
  • omarisafariomarisafari Member Posts: 1
    HI, I was hoping someone can give advice on this problem that my backseat passengers keep having in my 2006 New Beetle (TDI ;-). Everyone who sits back there bangs their heads on the pillar behind the rear side window. The Insurance Hiway safety institute has crashtest photos of dummies hitting their heads on that same pillar, http://www.iihs.org/ratings/rating.aspx?id=246. It makes me feel really guilty knowing this to let people sit back there, so I'd like to know what others are doing about this problem. I called VW customer care and they told me to talk to the dealer and there's nothing they could do (some customer care!!!). My current plan is to take it to a body shop and have padding installed up there. Any other suggestions?
    Thanks!
    Omari
  • bugged4bugged4 Member Posts: 1
    Have an 02 with temp light on as well as fuel light and seat belt light. Just got it out of the shop for transmission problem...bad sensor. We've had nothing but electrical problems. Cant wait to get rid of this thing... :sick: :mad: :lemon:
  • zman69zman69 Member Posts: 1
    It has been suggested that coil/ignition unit or air regulator could cause the jerk/loss of power at 35 rpms. What is my best (resonable) course of action.
  • amandak2amandak2 Member Posts: 3
    If anyone can help or point me in the right direction, I have a 2001 TDI Beetle. Latley, the blinkers/hazards have refused to work for me. I might get one blink if I am lucky. I have checked the fuses, and they are all fine. I'm kinda strapped for cash and have no patience for people that have no clue how to work on my car. If anyone knows an on-line maintenance book or has some bit of intelligence in this area, please help me out!!

    parked until further notice,
    amanda
  • amandak2amandak2 Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem, but my EGR valves were clogged. You might want to have that checked out. I was told that it could be my coils, but $700 later, that is what we found on my 2001 TDI NB.
    Good luck,
    amanda
  • pdoftpdoft Member Posts: 2
    I just got through an experience with brake lights out. After pulling my hair out trying fuses, etc, it turned out that the VW dealer sold me the wrong bulbs!! My advice - don't ignore the obvious. If the bulbs don't work, make sure they're the proper bulbs.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    It is MUCH better (and cheaper) to pull the problem bulbs and read the numbers from them. Or better yet, take the bad bulb into Wallmart and match up the number. (Wallmart usually carries all the VW-style bulbs.)
  • josh25josh25 Member Posts: 3
    Sorry if my question is kind of silly, but may I ask that what the differences between 16'' Mali alloy (for Beetle S) wheels and 17'' Versus alloy wheels (for Beetle SE) are?
    Sounds like 17'' wheel is more popular than 16''. Is 16'' wheel not good for driving or maintenance and repair?
    Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    In general... a larger wheel has a bumpier ride and MUCH more expensive tires.
  • josh25josh25 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you
  • becksbugbecksbug Member Posts: 6
    more problems - took in to dealership for brake light replacement, comes out with door lock switch malfunctioning-shorting out, can't use headlights, dome lights stay on, then don't come on at all, and it's nothing they did? just coincidentally happened at the dealership!!!!! this repair will cost $350 or more if I want to drive again w/ my headlights on!!! and that may or may not be the problem. I hope I can trade this beast in asap even tho I will be upside down, better rid of it than looking cute in it.
  • becksbugbecksbug Member Posts: 6
    thanks for the info - wish I knew you before I bought it. Had my son look at the car that weekend and found a small hose was cut so they replaced it. Car hasn't stalled since, but I have learned a very expensive lesson.
  • nstreet24nstreet24 Member Posts: 6
    I'm working on my girlfriends bug the check engine light is on, it starts and drives good for around 20 to 30 minutes. After that if it is just idleing or if I am stoping it stalls and won't start for atleast 15 to 30 minutes. when it does it will repeat the whole process again. I've gone right through this thing ! I have replaced the following: plugs, wires, coil pack, feul filter, the air intake tube thats located between the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body (cause the solinoid that is in it was broken anyway, O2 sensor befor the converter. If I can't figure it out I will fix it for good with a match LOL! Nah I would be in big trouble then huh! She loves the car and just wants it back. I thought of the fuel pump but even when it wont start I can still hear the little basterd whineing in the tank. Is it a weak pump? Is there a sensor in this computer on wheels that is messing with me? I don't know and I really need help!! This Car is a 1998 2.0 gas with a manual tranny and it has 95,000 miles on it. :confuse:
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    n24, i think you are on the right track to suspect the fuel pump or a fuel pressure issue. noisy fuel pump isn't necessarily a sign it's pumping well, but hey, it's something. fwiw, the diesel VWs have a fuel-return-line that can rarely clog and cause stalling. the gas cars probably don't have that - no need to heat the gasoline in the tank. hey, even if it is the fuel pump, with 95k you have taken care of lots of other stuff it would need anyway.
  • tracittracit Member Posts: 1
    Recently, i have experienced a water leak on the back floor board on the passenger side. I have took a shop vac and removed all of the water, took it to the dealership and had them unplug my drains for the sun roof. Thought the problem was fixed and now after a recent storm we had the same problem has occurred again. Any other possibilities for the water leak or suggestions.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    We had a similar/same leak with an 06 NB TDI. It took the dealer a bunch
    of visits to fix it. I recall the problem was that a water-seal thing was misplaced inside the drivers door - or inside the firewall.
  • keekidoll53keekidoll53 Member Posts: 4
    I own a 2001 Beetle 2.0 engine. Brand new off the lot Feb 01. Current Milage 88,000 I am new to this forum. Please bare with me while I give you a bit of history.

    The repairs on this vehicle through the past 7 years have been over the top!

    First of all, anyone else have the HORRIBLE problem with OIL USAGE? I keep a case of oil in my garage. There is documented history of this 2001 engine manufactured in MEXICO, has a "ring" problem. Oil usage begins the very moment you drive the car off the lot. It's very sad that VW knew all along this 2.0 engine was an oil user, but never released this information to the public till years later. Not a good selling tool telling a potential buyer you'll have an oil usage problem. The common words used in the service dept are WELL... THAT USAGE IS JUST NORMAL???? Yeah, RIGHT!!!

    I've had every sensor problem imaginable. The dashboard warning lights go off like a Xmas Tree. Down to VW to hook up to the OBD computer. Get the fault code and have to replace very expensive sensors of every kind over the years.

    EPC light problems.... Recall on the Brake light Switch on all these Beetles. The car will not go into gear and must be towed in. That was not a fun experience.

    Air conditioner problems which they can't seem to pinpoint, but want 600.00 to replace a valve and won't guarantee that will solve the problem, so I've paid for numerous recharging of the system. Obviously a leak somewhere.

    Leakage of coolant.... flange replacement. (hundreds for that) 2 months later... had to replace the water pump and thermostat.

    The side Mirror adjustment knob snaps off in my hand. Cheap plastic!!! The entire switch needed to be replaced. That cost hundreds.

    Rock Shield underneath the vehicle has been replaced twice. 100.00 each time. It's cheap plastic without enough attachment areas to keep it secure. Finally I removed it all together and don't use it.

    I have been through 3 sets of tires because of unusual wear? (I only have 88,000 miles on the car) I have the vehicle aligned over and over again.

    I've been through 3 batteries. Last time I went to Sears instead of VW because it was half the price for a diehard battery and they give you a much better warranty.

    I have replaced the drivers side headlight bulb 5 times. After the 3rd visit to VW with them charging 80.00 with labor. I found a friend to help me. The bulb was only 5.00, so I now can replace it myself.

    The brakes front and rear have been replace twice, and I am an easy driver, not hard on the brakes at all. 600.00 for front and rear brakes at VW (outrageous)

    A rip started to form in the seam of the upper part of my leather drivers side seat. UNREAL. I have it repaired at an auto upholstery place. When they remove the seat I'm told the "side" airbag inserted in the seat along with body pressure while driving created the rip in the seam. Once the seat is repaired, The airbag light on the dash will not go out. Hence, always disconnect the battery before removing the seat. I had to pay 50.00 at VW for them to put it on the computer and remove the fault code causing the airbag light to remain lit on the dashboard.

    Now let me get to my most current problem. One is the turn signal will not stop making the clicking sound even when it's in the off position. CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK I am being tortured with the noise. In in order to fix, they have to replace the entire turn signal arm on the steering wheel....NICE!!!

    For the past few months when applying the brakes and rolling up to a stop I've heard this terrible creeking noise and now a grinding sound in the passenger side rear wheel area of the car. It's continued to increase the past few weeks.

    I left the car at VW three mornings ago at 7:30 AM, at 3:30 in the afternoon I call them to get an update. They tell me they can't find anything wrong? HELLO?? The whole day has gone by.

    I drive back to VW in my Borrowed car!!!!! Get in my Beetle with the technician. It doesn't take long and YEP, there's that horrible sound coming from the rear end passenger side of the vehicle. I mean what's up with that? They couldn't recreate the same condition and hear that noise. UNBELIEVABLE.

    Next morning I get a call and they tell me it's the rear bushings.

    These two rubber bushings cost 40.00 That's about 20.00 each. The bad news, they want 750.00 for the labor to replace the rear bushings. Stating it's a 6 hour job? Hello? I'm not a mechanic but anyone else in this forum know anything about this procedure?

    It does not stop there. Now the service rep tells me the timing belt is making noise and that should be replaced. Another 600.00 for the timing belt stating it's a 5 hour job. The timing belt itself cost is approx 34.00.

    Plus an oil change was requested by me when I dropped the car off.

    Now we are at approx 1700.00 for repairs? This has knocked the wind out of me. :sick:

    I can't afford a new car. I don't want car payments. I was so happy to have paid off this VW in 2 years and it breaks my heart I have one problem after another that drains my pocket book.

    This 2001 Beetle has done nothing but choke me to death with maintenance and repair bills over the years. VW prices at the dealership are outrageous but I worry if taking my car to private repair shop sometimes it just makes things worse. Always being told that VW original parts are the way to go.

    When issues arise I am always stuck taking it to my local VW dealer where I bought it brand new. They know me by name because I am there every other month with some kind of issue.

    It's heartbreaking.

    Can any one else tell me about the history with their Beetle? What is a fair price to have the rear bushings replaced and the timing belt? Do these particular jobs really take 5 to 6 hours of labor to complete or am I being once again being REAMED by the VW dealership? They have had my car for 3 days now and I may not even have it back by the close of business today?

    Thanks to all who got this far in reading my post.

    Any answers or feedback would be appreciated.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Each of my 2 daughters has a 2001 VW (one Golf and one NewBeetle) The Gulf consumes oil and the NB does not.

    It sounds as if you have had a mix of bad luck, and poor dealership support. Most of the costs you mention are higher than what I would consider reasonable.

    I can tell you that a 2001 with 88K miles is PAST DUE for a timingbelt. You should have planned for (set aside $$) for this to be done at 80K miles. If your TB breaks, the engine will likely be damaged beyond repair.

    You also need to realize that ANY vehicle with 88K miles will need some occasional maintance. It has given you many years of service.

    I cant answer your question about rear-bushing cost to replace. Perhaps you may wish to call around for some other shops to perform the maintaince tasks so you can get a better feel for the cost.

    You may also want to weigh the cost of maintenance against getting another vehicle. Many folks can answer this question by weiging the cost to maintain against the cost of payments for another car. Another way to help ease the maintaince costs is to set aside some $$ every payday specifically earmarked for car repairs as they arise.
  • executive01executive01 Member Posts: 2
    :confuse: my wife's car, a 2004 convt. the window is designed to go down slightly when you open the door and up slightly when you close it. all is well on the passenger side, the drivers side works when it wants to.....completly at random. most of the time it just stays up and is hard enough to open when getting out, then when you go to close it, it will close, only it dosent come close to making a proper seal. is there a sensor somewhere that isnt making contact? the weather or temp seems to have no affect on this reoccuring issue. anyone else had this happen? any ideas for a fix?
  • kellyokellyo Member Posts: 3
    I am so sorry to hear about all of your troubles. I also own a 2001 with about the same amount of mileage. I have not has much trouble with it besides some random dashboard lights going off. However, my VW mechanic told me that the timing belt will need to be replaced soon and it will cost quite a bit in labor because it is hard to get to (in the engine). I hope this helps and good luck. :)
  • bamamamabamamama Member Posts: 1
    I would like some other opinions of VW's. My daughter would like a VW and we ran across a 2000 VW, 5 spd, but not sure if we should trust it. It may have some kind of moisture problem, it has a sun roof or moon roof, not sure of the difference. The interior door panel material needs re-gluing and may have a slight miss. Someone told my hubby not to get anything under 2003, because they were nothing but trouble before then. Can some of you that own these give me some advice on this. My daughter is a teen and we need something safe & reliable.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I assume you are NOT talking about the BLUE indicator which simply tells you that the engine is cold. Anyone that has read the owners manual (or watched the movie that came with your 99 NewBeetle) knows what the BLUE light means.

    If you had used the SEARCH funcion, you would have quickly discovered the reason and the fix for your " temp light comes on and stays on till the car has warmed up" problem.

    REASON:
    The antifreeze is a tad low in the resevour and when the engine is cold, the antifreeze contracts (shrinks) and lighs up the "low" sensor. As the engine warms up, the antifreeze expands (gets bigger) and the level rises in the resevour. This satisfies the level sensor and the "low" indicator goes out.

    FIX:
    Add less than 1/2 cup of DISTILLED water to resivour. If you need to add more than 1/2 cup of liquid, you MUST use the specified G12 antifreeze mixture.

    NOTE: If the level continues to get low over the course of several weeks, you have a LEAK than should be isolated and corrected.
  • feliciatwofeliciatwo Member Posts: 68
    You don't have to sink so low as to compound your mistakes by buying a Ford. How bout the top guys; subaru, Honda , toyota. They're almost boring they're so reliable.

    I've wanted a Tier2 Bin5 diesel for at least 4 years now preferrably w/ Hybrid. But I've worried about their reliability. Honda doesn't use Urea in their new proposed Diesel. ...but they're putting it in an Accord, and I don't want a sedan.
    VW Tiguan is ideal EXCEPT for my concern about reliability...and I'm new to diesel except for the bobcat I sometimes drive.

    I want your feedback on VW reliability in general.
  • executive01executive01 Member Posts: 2
    my wife's car, a 2004 convt. the window is designed to go down slightly when you open the door and up slightly when you close it. all is well on the passenger side, the drivers side works when it wants to.....completly at random. most of the time it just stays up and is hard enough to open when getting out, then when you go to close it, it will close, only it dosent come close to making a proper seal. is there a sensor somewhere that isnt making contact? the weather or temp seems to have no affect on this reoccuring issue. anyone else had this happen? any ideas for a fix?
  • donalds71donalds71 Member Posts: 3
    I just purchased a 2002 New Beetle. I live in rural Nebraska and the nearest VW dealer is 300 miles away. I mean it's not like I live in Mayberry or anything, there are all the usual car dealerships; Ford, Honda, Chevy, Nissan, Chrysler, etc., here, just no VW dealer here.

    Due to several constraints, I am unable to drive those 300 miles every time I need to have the oil changed or have the vehicle's various fluids replaced or refilled. Same goes for lubrication.

    Is there any manual that I can get to give to my local mechanic(s) for him to perform the above mentioned tasks?

    Thanks,

    DonaldS
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The defacto standard for Volkswagen manuals is Bentley

    The Bentley manuals are available in both printed and CD form. My wife (bless her heart) gave me a bentley manual as a gift several years ago.

    The CD versions of the Bentley manuals have the bonus of receiving upgrades thru the internet so you always have the latest procedures and information.
  • donalds71donalds71 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for your reply to my question about maintenance manual. I appreciate that you took the time to reply. Thanks and, Bentley it is then.

    Regards,

    DonaldS
  • philbetterphilbetter Member Posts: 1
    Can someone please advise....??
    I wired bothe of these into my 2001 Beetle and then had the Catalytic installed...
    When the Check Engine Light failed to turn-off... I then went to Auto Zone and hooked their scanner into my cars computer.... When I gave the codes to the AutoZone Parts Guy, he ran the info on his computer system which came up saying the Oxygen Sensors are wired wrong... He then told me. My mystake was matching the wires "Color to Color", and that if I went online, I could download the proper Diagram.... So far, I've sent this message to Bosch, and got no reply (yet)
    Anyone out there know the actual wiring by color process...??? (1 Black, 1 Gray and 2 white; both from the sensors and the car itself)
    Please advise, and thank you in advance!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Did you use the proper KIND of O2 sensors for your vehicle. In 2001, some of the vehicles came thru with 2 kinds of O2 sensors.
    (basically - Analog and Digital)

    The "digital" type is less accurate because it only outputs a YES/NO based on what it is sensing.

    The "analog" type outputs a constantly-changing output that is very accurate at detecting slight changes in the oxygen-content of the exhust gasses.

    THESE ARE NOT INTERCHANGABLE!

    I assume you realize that 2 of the wires are just 12V to the heater within the O2 sensor. The other 2 wires are for the sensing.

    Additionaly, all O2 sensors need to be able to "breathe" ambient air in order to detect the zone-difference between atmosphere and exhaust gasses. NEVER EVER use tape to seal up the breathing-tube for an O2 sensor. (O2 sensors are actually a difference sensor using atmosphere as the reference)

    I suggest you review the codes your car is throwing and determine WHICH of the O2 sensors are the problem. It is very unlikely that BOTH of them went bad at the same time.
  • marianne3marianne3 Member Posts: 1
    I'm new to the VA Beach area and am searching for a reputable dealer for routine service work such as oil changes. I checked for reviews in my zip code area (23669) but there were only two and they were for sales and both related poor experiences.

    I know that oil changing isn't rocket science but I still want to establish a relationship with a local dealer that provides reliable, professional, friendly service.
  • sandysurfclubsandysurfclub Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    My lease expires in June 2008, My inspection is May 5, 2008. This is my first and (last leased car). It is a 2005-VW convertible with 24k. What does the inspection look for. ZWhat do I have to have ready. I read the brief inspection inform from Vw but what to I need to expect from them. Should I take pics of the car before and after inspection. Thx you
  • ashleecaulashleecaul Member Posts: 1
    So, do any of us know how to fix the bushings, dashboard warning lights, etc? I have about 45,000 miles and have many of the same problems. I have that awful squeak rear passenger side. The hatch-open light is always lit, and the wipers go back and forth a few times and then stop in the middle of the windshield. If you know how to change the headlight bulb yourself, please share; I have had this problem too. Thanks!
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