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If you ever find a solution to this, PLEASE let me know...I live in South Texas and we are a flood-danger zone, especially with the summer coming up. When it rains here, it rains HEAVY --I'm always stuck wherever I am because the wipers will randomly stop working & I feel it's completely unsafe to drive when you can no longer see the road! Any help is appreciated, thanks:)
#1 cool engine light always comes on NO MATTER WHAT when i turn on the engine. Even if i drove it for a while turned it off then turned it back on. Usually goes off within a couple miles. I don't know why this does that.
#2 Just today I turned it on after driving it to the store and while in park with the emergency brake on the car feels like it is shaking right beneath my feel. It has never done this before. So i turned it off and turned it back on same thing. One hour later same thing. Its mainly while i am at a complete stop or when in park. What could this be?
#3
I have an automatic, and when i put it in reverse, fully brake, then shift into drive it and let off the brake it lags... it goes back still even when not on a hill. then goes into drive its really weird and only does it sometimes. Anyone else have this problem with the automatic.
please help. This is my first car, i am a teenager and i don't want to have to take it in to have something fixed when it really doesn't need to be. Because everyone knows how mechanics are... they WILL find something wrong with your car while you are in there and make you pay.
I bought this car about 1 month ago used with all the records and it only has 37,000 miles on it.
I would appreciate any feedback.
:sick:
The cool engine (blue) light is SUPPOSED to be on until the engine warms up. This is because the NB (New Beetle) does not have a temparature-guage to show you that the engine is sill not warmed up.
Everyone knows not to drive hard with a cold engine... this is why VW has the blue indicator when the engine is not warmed up. Drive the engine gently when it is not warmed up so it lasts longer.
The "shaking" issue you describe sounds like ignition problem. (has it been raining when this happened?) Since VW offers 3 different engines in the NB, I cannot give you any further details at this juncture.
Don't worry about the car rolling back when you put it into drive. I had a 1998 beetle that did the same thing for all 5 yrs I had it. I now have a 2003 beetle and it does the same stinking thing. THe most aggravating part is waiting for it to pop into gear so I can take off. Usually I keep tapping the breaks until it gets into gear. This will help you to not hit anything that might be close behind you. I also believe that it helps the car to get into gear quicker, but I'm suspicious that this soluition may be more pyschosomatic
Or if anyone has any information, I don't have my keyless entry remote and both of my locks are simply spinning when I try unlock the doors. I finally unlocked the driver's side door but the alarm was still engaged. Any information would be great.
The headlight bulbs are less than $8 at WallyMart. There is step-by-step instructions how to replace NB headlight bulb on the web.
Basically
1) open hood
2) flip release lever that holds assembly in place
3) slide headlight assembly out thru front of car
4) replace bulb
5) reverse process to install.
Takes about 15 minutes once you have done it a couple times. I often replace headlignt bulbs right in the WallyMart parkinglot.
Replacing rear turnsignal bulb is even easier than replacing headlight bub (Open trunk and reach inside) No tools required at all. I have a box of spare taillight bulbs here at the house. (3 VWs in family)
Could you please elaberate about under what conditions you encounter static?
If you have done this before please let me know if there are any tricks to it.
Manual says to take it to a dealer as it could be something electrical in the coolant system...
Any ideas or experience out there related to this?
Thanks,
Panjshir
Anybody have any advice? It's running great, but the light won't go off.
Many auto-parts stores (Autozone...etc) will "pull the codes" out of the computer for free for you.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
2008 Automatic 2.5
I check the milage and gas usage every time I fill up my tank.
I've owned my New Beetle since April 16, 2008
Yesterday I discovered with my around town driving this past 10 days I only got 17 miles per gallon. I am not that heavy on the gas peddle.
That's as bad as an SUV.
How disturbing and what a major disappointment.
The best so far has only been approx. 24 to 25 MPG on the Hwy and that would be driving like a little old lady. Not breaking 55 to 60 on the FREEWAY.... who drives like that????????
I am completely disappointed VW could not do any better with Gas Milage Efficiency.
What a total let down. Should have bought a SMART CAR!!!!
As for the air conditoner, I do know that in my part of the country we have to operate the car air conditioners (not just the VW) in the recirculation mode all summer. This will make the air colder and will tend to speed the cool down of the car. Push the recirculate button along with the A/C button and try operating in that mode. It should help.
keeki, your reported mpg is just a couple mpg below the EPA estimate that was on the window when you bought the car. That sounds reasonable, given that gas engines are not broken in until about 10k miles - 10% mpg improvement is possible due to break-in.
your idea that gas car mpg is not that much better than SUV mpg matches my opinion. btw, TDI version of beetle gets 44 highway, never below 40 mpg. Smarter than a smart car, with twice as many seats.
imho, smart cars get poor mpg for such a tiny/toy car. except for the diesel smart, unavailable in USA.
As for the window - One of the 4 TDI VWs I've bought had a misaligned drivers window, noticed via extra wind-noise from that window. Dealer did not need technical-assistance to fix that one. They maybe did need it to find a water-leak in the 06 NB DSG TDI ($20k new), as well as 3 visits. They finally got it done by removing every rug in the car and driving through carwash, to find the leak.
Comparing with other Beetles on VW lots, the window operation, maybe that will show you what's normal for the windows. On my only remaining VW, 06 jetta TDI, the front windows do roll down almost exactly flush with top of door/molding. I'll let you know if I notice anything interesting re that.
cheers...
Thanks
Bill
I have two new vehicles (2008 Beetle Convertible and 2008 Mazda) which I have begun to use synthetic. While I always change the oil at 3000 miles, my mechanic suggested I could go longer with the synthetic oil. I will change every 5000 miles. One my one older vehicle (1996 Izuzu Trooper) I will continue to use regular oil, as it has 85,000 miles - and change this every 3000 miles.
I doubt the oil change place will refund your daughter, but in the future she probably just needs to say "regular oil only - Thanks".
BTW: The 1.8t engine also requires hi-test gasoline because it is turbocharged.
Which engine does your daughter have in her NB (New Beetle)?
With that said, perhaps you should define what you mean by "damage the paint". What is the purpose of having a cover? Is somone painting the cealing above the car?
I would expect that if a properly clayed, washed and waxed automobile would receive no lasting alteration to the paint finish from a well-designed car cover.
HOWEVER: A properly clayed, washed and waxed automobile looks great and I would not want to cover it.
and i just noticed that the fuel filter is only 1/4 the way full of fuel when running. not sure if that's relevant or not...
it's not leaking or using any more oil than it has over the last 140,000 miles(1 quart every 500-1000 miles)
What does a flashing oil light mean.I know steady on at an idle means the engines worn out,and turning on steady or intermittently while up to speed means the engine is starving for oil.but what is steady flashing while driving?
Given that low oil PRESSURE can quickly destroy your engine, you should give this problem due focus and get it resolved ASAP.
One common cause of this would be using the WRONG OIL in the 1.8T engine. You MUST use synthetic oil at all times. At this juscture, I will assume that you have been running the proper grade and type of oil at all times.
The only real way to approach this problem is to have the oil PRESSURE checked. (Again, the oil level is irrelevent)
1)If the pressure is within tolerance, then change the oil-pressure sending units to fix the problem.
2)If the pressure is too low, then you need do have the problem diagnosed further. This could be a weak oil-pump or spun bearing.
3) Otherwise expect the engine to self-destruct.
when the engine is off/ignition on,or after an oil change for a few seconds the light is on to indicate no/low oil pressure until it pumps up.So is this steady flashing the same thing,or does it indicate something different.
For example, if the oil-filter were plugged, the onbard computer would 'know' it and may flash the light. If the oil was too thick/thin if a bearing were "spun", then it would also 'know' it.
If you have not been running 100% synthetic oil, then you are likely seeing the results of ENGINE SLUDGE pluggin up some important passagways.
In any case I think it is wise to NOT DRIVE THE CAR until you have isolated this problem and resolved it.
Personally, I am cheep and would start with the lowest-cost possibility. (clean out the sludge)
1) I would start with using some kind of "engine flush" with cheep oil and filter. Carefully follow the engine-flush instructions....usually you are NOT supposed to even drive the car while being treated.
2) Then I would drain that cruddy oil and install QUALITY German products. (Mann filter and Pentosin oil)
3)If that did not help, then I would head straight to a competent mechanic to have the oil-pressure checked with a calibrated guage.
Thanks for any insight.