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Volkswagen Beetle Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • pepahpepah Member Posts: 4
    So, if I understand you correctly I don't have to give a local dealer $140 to program a new remote? What is the % of probability that this works? Thank you for any help you can send my way, I appreciate.
  • xraidercutiexxraidercutiex Member Posts: 2
    So, do any of us know how to fix the bushings, dashboard warning lights, etc? I have about 45,000 miles and have many of the same problems. I have that awful squeak rear passenger side. The hatch-open light is always lit, and the wipers go back and forth a few times and then stop in the middle of the windshield. If you know how to change the headlight bulb yourself, please share; I have had this problem too. Thanks!

    If you ever find a solution to this, PLEASE let me know...I live in South Texas and we are a flood-danger zone, especially with the summer coming up. When it rains here, it rains HEAVY --I'm always stuck wherever I am because the wipers will randomly stop working & I feel it's completely unsafe to drive when you can no longer see the road! Any help is appreciated, thanks:)
  • xraidercutiexxraidercutiex Member Posts: 2
    I have no major problems with my 2003 Beetle (knock on wood), but I am thoroughly annoyed that it is almost monthly that a piece of my car will break off or stop working altogether. The gas lid no longer opens with the little switch-button thing, the handle to the glove box fell off, my console lid comes off when I brake too quickly ("emergency braking"), my left headlight actually falls out gradually and it points to the SIDE, my check engine light is on even after we took it to the dealer to get fixed, the catalytic converter had to be fixed, and there is this EXTREMELY annoying, completely at random clicking noise. It just started a few weeks ago, but it is SO annoying! It sounds like the blinker, but it's almost like it joins in on songs and clicks along with the beat of them. Help on anything? Anyone? :sick:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    The archives have all the answers to your questions. Please use search to find answers.
  • crystal_redcrystal_red Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2002 VW Beetle

    #1 cool engine light always comes on NO MATTER WHAT when i turn on the engine. Even if i drove it for a while turned it off then turned it back on. Usually goes off within a couple miles. I don't know why this does that.

    #2 Just today I turned it on after driving it to the store and while in park with the emergency brake on the car feels like it is shaking right beneath my feel. It has never done this before. So i turned it off and turned it back on same thing. One hour later same thing. Its mainly while i am at a complete stop or when in park. What could this be?

    #3
    I have an automatic, and when i put it in reverse, fully brake, then shift into drive it and let off the brake it lags... it goes back still even when not on a hill. then goes into drive its really weird and only does it sometimes. Anyone else have this problem with the automatic.

    please help. This is my first car, i am a teenager and i don't want to have to take it in to have something fixed when it really doesn't need to be. Because everyone knows how mechanics are... they WILL find something wrong with your car while you are in there and make you pay.

    I bought this car about 1 month ago used with all the records and it only has 37,000 miles on it.

    I would appreciate any feedback.
    :sick:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL!! (or download one)

    The cool engine (blue) light is SUPPOSED to be on until the engine warms up. This is because the NB (New Beetle) does not have a temparature-guage to show you that the engine is sill not warmed up.

    Everyone knows not to drive hard with a cold engine... this is why VW has the blue indicator when the engine is not warmed up. Drive the engine gently when it is not warmed up so it lasts longer.

    The "shaking" issue you describe sounds like ignition problem. (has it been raining when this happened?) Since VW offers 3 different engines in the NB, I cannot give you any further details at this juncture.
  • snoopaloopsnoopaloop Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Don't worry about the car rolling back when you put it into drive. I had a 1998 beetle that did the same thing for all 5 yrs I had it. I now have a 2003 beetle and it does the same stinking thing. THe most aggravating part is waiting for it to pop into gear so I can take off. Usually I keep tapping the breaks until it gets into gear. This will help you to not hit anything that might be close behind you. I also believe that it helps the car to get into gear quicker, but I'm suspicious that this soluition may be more pyschosomatic :)
  • buggedvwownerbuggedvwowner Member Posts: 2
    I have had my 2005 New Beetle for 2 years. About a week after I drove it my headlights burned out starting with the left then right. This went on for over 6 months. My ABS light comes on all the time and the air bag sensor has been on for 6 months. I live in Salisbury NC and need to find an authorized service center. I cannot afford to give the VW dealership $50.00 just to keep changing headlights. The ABS sensor and the airbag sensor will cost me $1000.00 to have corrected by the VW dealer. Now my rear turn signal is out and can't even imagine what they will charge to do that. I have tried to find a service place by zip code but I am not having any luck.
  • jawimesjrjawimesjr Member Posts: 1
    The same thing just happened to me, I was wondering if you had any information on what it cost to fix it.

    Or if anyone has any information, I don't have my keyless entry remote and both of my locks are simply spinning when I try unlock the doors. I finally unlocked the driver's side door but the alarm was still engaged. Any information would be great.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    $50 to replace a headlight!!! OUTRAGEOUS!! I spend $50 to replace brake-pads in my driveway.

    The headlight bulbs are less than $8 at WallyMart. There is step-by-step instructions how to replace NB headlight bulb on the web.

    Basically
    1) open hood
    2) flip release lever that holds assembly in place
    3) slide headlight assembly out thru front of car
    4) replace bulb
    5) reverse process to install.

    Takes about 15 minutes once you have done it a couple times. I often replace headlignt bulbs right in the WallyMart parkinglot.

    Replacing rear turnsignal bulb is even easier than replacing headlight bub (Open trunk and reach inside) No tools required at all. I have a box of spare taillight bulbs here at the house. (3 VWs in family)
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Don't laugh. Some cars now require you to take the front bumper cover off to change a headlight bulb as there's no room to change them from the back :cry:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    That is exactly why the German engineers for the NB (New Beetle) designed the headlight assemblies to slide out the front of the car.... you can carry the entire assembly to your kitchen-table and replace the bulb there. (I dont have a garage... just a dirt driveway)
  • buggedvwownerbuggedvwowner Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help. I didn't want to even touch the taillight but if its that easy then I will try. Of course when you read the owners manual it tells you it has to be done by the dealer.
  • 1953beetle1953beetle Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 NB with leather seats. First time for the leather. The problem I have is static. I have had the car since Oct. 2007 and have yet to find a way to solve this problem. Is there anyone else out in this world that has this type of problem. I live in West Texas and sometimes it is dry, but lately we have had alot of humidity. Would appreciate any input.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Humidity should drain off the static so it would not be an issue.

    Could you please elaberate about under what conditions you encounter static?
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Member Posts: 462
    The silver cap (the silver button) on the handbrake broke off leaving the plastic ears struck inside the handbrake. Does anyone know of an easy way to get those plastic ears out so that a new handbrake cap can go in ?

    If you have done this before please let me know if there are any tricks to it.
  • popadopolispopadopolis Member Posts: 16
    The broken plastic ears do not pose a problem. When they broke off they fell down into the black plastic round handle the button snaps into. All you need is another button which, should just snap into the black round shaft! This has happened to me twice, once on my 99 beetle and just weeks ago on my 04 beetle. Don't worry about the broken tabs, they are not going to cause any problems. Have a nice day! :)
  • panjshirpanjshir Member Posts: 1
    My Blue Engine Coolant Light has been on consistently lately. On the interstate today it was blinking blue.

    Manual says to take it to a dealer as it could be something electrical in the coolant system...

    Any ideas or experience out there related to this?

    Thanks,

    Panjshir
  • 07530753 Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2000 New Beetle. The driver's side window switch is broken. Where is the best place to purchase a replacement(s) and how difficult is it to replace them?
  • mauimoemauimoe Member Posts: 1
    Help! Bough my wife a 2000 VW new beetle (She loves it).. It's been awesome! Had it about a month now and today, the check engine light came on. I turned it off immediately, checked the oil and water.... both OK, but making a bubbling sound from the back of the engine near the passenger compartment.... Pretty sure it's radiator fluid, but not sure why the noise is there... when it cooled down, it was a little low on fluid, but not bad.... runs smooth - drove it down the mountain to work and back ... ran great. I tried disconnecting the positive terminal on the battery for a little while to reset the check engine light, but it didn't work.

    Anybody have any advice? It's running great, but the light won't go off.
  • mschelmmschelm Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 NB GLX with the 1.8t, I have replaced to many parts to even list here, or at least it seems that way to me. It has 89K miles, anyway does anyone know why the engine just makes a clicking noise? It only does it when its idling and not all the time, I can't figure it out. I can sit their and let it idle and it will just click as loud as can be, but when I give a little gas it gets faster and then goes away. Does anyone know how this can be fixed? Also, my car came with the Monsoon system, yeah I hate it. The amp died maybe 6 months after I got the car and fried the front speakers. So I replaced them with an aftermarket component system and 2 years later now my right front speakers worked the day before then I turn on the car and they don't, then today I turn on the car and the left front speakers dont work. Does this sound familiar to anyone, because I really don't want to have to rip out the entire audio cables and speakers and have to redo them all. Thats just a waste of my time and effort I do believe even though I do want my speakers back.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You need to know the code which caused the CEL (Check Engine Light) Each code represents a specific failure-mode. As long as the CEL is not blinking, it is OK to drive.

    Many auto-parts stores (Autozone...etc) will "pull the codes" out of the computer for free for you.
  • gezlouisegezlouise Member Posts: 1
    2003 beetle convertible--i have replaced all four windows so far---latest is the glue around the window---dealer quoted 5000 to 1000 dollars- thats nuts. any ideas --- can a trip shop reglue? my plan is to unload as soon as fixed---never to return to vw
  • car776car776 Member Posts: 1
    I am in the middle of replacing the starter/solenoid. I have been able to remove the lower starter mounting bolt. The bolts are double with a nut and then a bolt. If you have ever removed a starter please respond and give me some ideas. The upper bolt has a piece of plastic which is holding a wiring harness. How do I get this piece of plastic out so I can get to the bolt under it.

    Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
  • mediaguy2mediaguy2 Member Posts: 38
    We have had the car less than a month, love it, but the ac takes 8 to 10 minutes to come on. it is the S model with manual trans. we took it to the dealer who couldn't find the problem. the dealer said they conferred with VW engineers who said it was the ambient air sensor. not in stock so it was shipped, installed and the same problems exists. now they say its the compressor, which is on back order and they say it will take 10 to 14 days to get from germany. the car has under 400 miles on it. we filed a complaint and got a case number from VW america and told them we wanted a new car. we've decided that rather than take a loaner we want to have use of our convert so we're taking it back unti,the compressor arrived and is installed and then we'll see what happens. dealer says this is a rare problem. also, we noticed that the driver window went all the way into the door well, but the passenger window stayed up about a quarter to a half inch when in the down position. dealer says they should stay up a bit and fixed the driver side to match the passenger side -- is that correct? any help much appreciated. do i have a lemon?
  • keekidoll53keekidoll53 Member Posts: 4
    I have had the absolute WORST gas milage in my New Beetle

    2008 Automatic 2.5

    I check the milage and gas usage every time I fill up my tank.

    I've owned my New Beetle since April 16, 2008

    Yesterday I discovered with my around town driving this past 10 days I only got 17 miles per gallon. I am not that heavy on the gas peddle.

    That's as bad as an SUV.

    How disturbing and what a major disappointment.

    The best so far has only been approx. 24 to 25 MPG on the Hwy and that would be driving like a little old lady. Not breaking 55 to 60 on the FREEWAY.... who drives like that????????

    I am completely disappointed VW could not do any better with Gas Milage Efficiency.

    What a total let down. Should have bought a SMART CAR!!!!
  • mediaguy2mediaguy2 Member Posts: 38
    what does the dealer say about the gas mileage? also take a look at my posting above yours. what do you think?
  • belaircarguybelaircarguy Member Posts: 107
    Media Guy 2 - I have a new 2008 SE Convertible with automatic. I have not encountered a problem with the windows. All windows retract completely into the doors or rear panels (for the back seat). I do know the windows will lower about 1/2 inch when you open the door or press the remote unlocking fey fob. This is designed so the window glass can seal correctly into the convertible top when the door is closed. I would have the dealer check again about the windows lowering, or ask to look at some other 2008 convertibles on their lot and see how those operate.

    As for the air conditoner, I do know that in my part of the country we have to operate the car air conditioners (not just the VW) in the recirculation mode all summer. This will make the air colder and will tend to speed the cool down of the car. Push the recirculate button along with the A/C button and try operating in that mode. It should help.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    mediaguy i don't see evidence you have a lemon and instead see evidence that dealer is fixing what is broken. it shouldn't take so long to get a compressor but that and a misaligned window sure do not make the car a lemon.
    keeki, your reported mpg is just a couple mpg below the EPA estimate that was on the window when you bought the car. That sounds reasonable, given that gas engines are not broken in until about 10k miles - 10% mpg improvement is possible due to break-in.
    your idea that gas car mpg is not that much better than SUV mpg matches my opinion. btw, TDI version of beetle gets 44 highway, never below 40 mpg. Smarter than a smart car, with twice as many seats.
    imho, smart cars get poor mpg for such a tiny/toy car. except for the diesel smart, unavailable in USA.
  • mediaguy2mediaguy2 Member Posts: 38
    thanks for your response. what struck me odd about all this was that the service people said they had to consult with vw engineers to try to diagnose the problem. after a couple of days they decided it was the ambient temperature sensor, which involved taking off the bumper to install. when they put it all back together the ac was still doing the same thing, taking 10 minutes to kick in. then the dealer said they consulted with the engineers again and then it was decided it was the compressor. seems to me they dont know whats going on and are going from one part to another in hopes of finding a solution.
  • mediaguy2mediaguy2 Member Posts: 38
    i agree in my mind that windows should retract into the door and not sit up a quarter or a half inch. the window on the passenger side was the one that was up just a bit, front and rear. the drivers window went all the way down as one would expect. the dealer said all windows were engineered to stay up a little above the sill. i called another dealer's service department and they said that the windows SHOULD stay up a little above the sill. we're picking up the car today because it'll be a week or two before they have the replacement ac compressor so i'll check the windows and ask to see how they operate in another new convertible.
  • mediaguy2mediaguy2 Member Posts: 38
    btw, regarding the ac, i always had the ac button AND the recirculate button on at the same time with the dial all the way to the blue for the coldest air and it still took 8 to 10 minutes for the ac to kick in. so yes i was aware of the recirculate.
  • eliaselias Member Posts: 2,209
    Media G2, yeah, that's why all the manufacturers have 'technical assistance center', to help the dealer mechanics diagnose rare/unusual issues. My sympathies lie with the mechanics since my job for about 30 years has involved diagnosing difficult technical issues. Failure of ambient temperature sensor sure does sound obscure/rare and tough to diagnose for the non-software-inclined. Many mechanics have many certifications in the software/ECM stuff, at least one per dealership, as far as I know. Maybe that dude was out sick. :|
    As for the window - One of the 4 TDI VWs I've bought had a misaligned drivers window, noticed via extra wind-noise from that window. Dealer did not need technical-assistance to fix that one. They maybe did need it to find a water-leak in the 06 NB DSG TDI ($20k new), as well as 3 visits. They finally got it done by removing every rug in the car and driving through carwash, to find the leak.
    Comparing with other Beetles on VW lots, the window operation, maybe that will show you what's normal for the windows. On my only remaining VW, 06 jetta TDI, the front windows do roll down almost exactly flush with top of door/molding. I'll let you know if I notice anything interesting re that.
    cheers...
  • vitahawkvitahawk Member Posts: 14
    Hi. My daughter has a 2002 beetle with gas engine. Last week she took the beetle in for oil change at a quick lube place. They insisted that she must only use synthetic oil in her car and sold her the oil change with the more costly oil. They charged her an additional $50 on top of the regular oil change for this. Her owners manual lists synthetic as well as standard petro based oils as acceptable. I think she got ripped off and would like to see them eat the extra $50 cost. Comments please?
    Thanks
    Bill
  • belaircarguybelaircarguy Member Posts: 107
    When I have taken my cars to my trusted mechanic and asked about regular oil vs synthetic, his opinion is if you have a new car and start off on regular oil changes with synthetic you should get longer engine life and reduced wear. If you have a car that has years and miles and have always used just regular oil, then the benefits of using synthetic in that car is probably does not justify the extra cost.

    I have two new vehicles (2008 Beetle Convertible and 2008 Mazda) which I have begun to use synthetic. While I always change the oil at 3000 miles, my mechanic suggested I could go longer with the synthetic oil. I will change every 5000 miles. One my one older vehicle (1996 Izuzu Trooper) I will continue to use regular oil, as it has 85,000 miles - and change this every 3000 miles.

    I doubt the oil change place will refund your daughter, but in the future she probably just needs to say "regular oil only - Thanks".
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Depends on WHICH gasoline engine she has. The 1.8 turbocharged engine MUST have synthetic oil. This may not be in the "owners manual" of the 2002 models because this announcement was made (retroactively) by VW many years later after numerous oil-related engine-failures.The turbocharger can 'cook' dyno-oil due to the extremely high tempartures it runs at.

    BTW: The 1.8t engine also requires hi-test gasoline because it is turbocharged.

    Which engine does your daughter have in her NB (New Beetle)?
  • dkat2dkat2 Member Posts: 1
    Vitahawk - I have a 2002 bettle that I purchased new and have only taken it to the dealer for oil changes (every wonderful 5K miles faithfully) and from the get go they have only used synthetic. I guess because of the 5K miles recommended oil change - that could be why the synthetic is used.
  • becksbugbecksbug Member Posts: 6
    hopefully you have fixed this problem, but just in case, my 2003 did the same thing for about 2 weeks, I took to the dealership, they said the trunk latch was causing the alarm to go off and that I needed to have something replaced there, only happened when I locked the car of course. Then it just stopped going off. That was 18 months ago, and have had numerous other problems since, but not that one. Good luck!
  • becksbugbecksbug Member Posts: 6
    Me again, now my bug doesn't want to start - about 1 month ago, had headlights on for about 5 mins, went to start car, didn't turn over, then started, 2 weeks later, daughter had radio on, car off, didn't want to turn over, waited for tow truck, then it started. in the last 2 weeks, this problem has occurred more often, all the panel lights turn on, but nothing happens, then if I do it again it will start, until today. when this happens, it resets the clock, and radio. Have asked my mechanics for input, nobody knows, until they get it in the shop and try to figure it out. Today, when trying to start, lights go on, but nothing happens except for clicking noise like starter? Is this typical behavior when the starter is going out? I had the mass airflow sensor replaced right before this started as the car didn't want to stay running and the code showed mass afs., right after that, rt headlight, bumper light and left brake light went out at the same time. Have also replaced the plugs and wires 2 months ago, oil changes monthly due to miles driven. Every time something gets fixed electrical, within 2 months, something else goes out. I am ready to drive it into the river. I have never in all my years had problems like this with any car I have ever owned - My best car was a 1989 Cougar -all electric windows, etc - drove that car for 10 years and only problem was blew a head gasket (I didn't know about changing oil then) and blew the trans in its 9th year (didn't know about that stuff either). Always had fords - I guarantee I will NEVER, EVER :mad: :mad: :cry::cry: :lemon: , buy a volkswagen again unless it is an old beetle for fun.
  • blythe2blythe2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 VW Beetle 1.8 Turbo. I just bought the car and it has run perfectly the last 3 weeks. It recently sat for a week without being driven and now it is having problems starting. Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Just a wild guess -- Battery drained while vehicle was sitting for a week?
  • mumble88mumble88 Member Posts: 9
    My wife has a beetle and recently I got her a car cover for it from carscover.com. It's a really nice cover. But she's not putting it on!!!! I asked her why and she said that it might damage the paint job of her beetle. Now that I think of it, it could damage the paint. However I am not too sure. So anyone can give me some advise?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Anything touching the paint could alter it in some way. Wether it is ash, carcover, rain, sunshine and even airborne contaminants.

    With that said, perhaps you should define what you mean by "damage the paint". What is the purpose of having a cover? Is somone painting the cealing above the car?

    I would expect that if a properly clayed, washed and waxed automobile would receive no lasting alteration to the paint finish from a well-designed car cover.

    HOWEVER: A properly clayed, washed and waxed automobile looks great and I would not want to cover it.
  • mschelmmschelm Member Posts: 2
    Have you had them check the battery. I had my car off and the headlights and stereo were on for maybe 5 mins and then my car wouldn't start I had to get a jump. The only thing it would do was click a whole bunch when trying to start it. I have had a lot of the same problems you have had with mine as well. I have replaced the oil pump, water pump, mass airflow sensor and monitor, the fuse box above my battery (because it was melted somehow), and all the starter coils, and I do believe some other things. But the starting problem is more than likely the battery, its just a battery cell going bad, that can't make its mind up on if it wants to go bad or not. Just take it to an auto zone and they will check the battery for free, thats what I did and then bought a new one for about $90
  • blacklabeljackblacklabeljack Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased my first car, a 70 bug and im having some idling problems. After about 15 minutes of running, the car doesnt want to idle anymore, and also the fuse from the coil to the reverse light switch blows at about the same time it stops idling.. anyone have any idea what could be the problem? its a 1600cc engine with the 30pict -3 carb. any help would be much appreciated. Confused

    and i just noticed that the fuel filter is only 1/4 the way full of fuel when running. not sure if that's relevant or not...
  • tin_indiantin_indian Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2000 beetle turbo.the red oil light comes on flashing while driving,if I let off the gas pedal and slow down or come to a stop the light turns off.when I accelerate it comes back on,but not steady.all it does is flash like a turn signal light.
    it's not leaking or using any more oil than it has over the last 140,000 miles(1 quart every 500-1000 miles)
    What does a flashing oil light mean.I know steady on at an idle means the engines worn out,and turning on steady or intermittently while up to speed means the engine is starving for oil.but what is steady flashing while driving?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    There are several possible causes. The bottom line is that you must understand that the oil-light is an indicator of oil PRESSURE and not level. (The oil level dynamicly changes all the time while the engine is running and is practically irrelevant as long as it is within spec.)

    Given that low oil PRESSURE can quickly destroy your engine, you should give this problem due focus and get it resolved ASAP.

    One common cause of this would be using the WRONG OIL in the 1.8T engine. You MUST use synthetic oil at all times. At this juscture, I will assume that you have been running the proper grade and type of oil at all times.

    The only real way to approach this problem is to have the oil PRESSURE checked. (Again, the oil level is irrelevent)

    1)If the pressure is within tolerance, then change the oil-pressure sending units to fix the problem.
    2)If the pressure is too low, then you need do have the problem diagnosed further. This could be a weak oil-pump or spun bearing.
    3) Otherwise expect the engine to self-destruct.
  • tin_indiantin_indian Member Posts: 5
    Ok I understand all of that if the light was on,or randomly flickering.but why does the light steadily flash like a turnsignal light.
    when the engine is off/ignition on,or after an oil change for a few seconds the light is on to indicate no/low oil pressure until it pumps up.So is this steady flashing the same thing,or does it indicate something different.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    VW uses 2 oil-pressure senders. 1 BEFORE the oil-filter and 1 at the end of the oil-gallies. The onboard computer "knows" what the pressure-difference should be between these 2 sensors.

    For example, if the oil-filter were plugged, the onbard computer would 'know' it and may flash the light. If the oil was too thick/thin if a bearing were "spun", then it would also 'know' it.

    If you have not been running 100% synthetic oil, then you are likely seeing the results of ENGINE SLUDGE pluggin up some important passagways.

    In any case I think it is wise to NOT DRIVE THE CAR until you have isolated this problem and resolved it.

    Personally, I am cheep and would start with the lowest-cost possibility. (clean out the sludge)
    1) I would start with using some kind of "engine flush" with cheep oil and filter. Carefully follow the engine-flush instructions....usually you are NOT supposed to even drive the car while being treated.

    2) Then I would drain that cruddy oil and install QUALITY German products. (Mann filter and Pentosin oil)

    3)If that did not help, then I would head straight to a competent mechanic to have the oil-pressure checked with a calibrated guage.
  • keygokeygo Member Posts: 38
    I am not sure where to ask this so I decided to post it here. I live in Michigan and my daughter is looking at both a New Beetle and a Mini Cooper. She drives 20 miles to school each day. While we don't get snow like Buffalo, it is not at all uncommon to wake up to snowy roads. With good tires, will the Beetle get her through our snowy days. I would hate for her to be stuck at U of M overnight because we got six to eight inches of snow. She does love small cute cars.
    Thanks for any insight.
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