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Mitsubishi Eclipse - 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • drivencrazydrivencrazy Member Posts: 3
    A relief, thank you. But if you don't mind, I still would like to know what crankwalk is and how it affects an engine. Ya never know when a peice of information may come in handy!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    In very simple terms, the crankshaft of the turbo motor can wobble from its set position, which wrecks havoc on the internals of the engine. The crankshaft is what drives the pistons and connecting rods. If it moves out of position, it's going to take everything else with it and what you end up with is an engine in need of a full rebuild. Not a pretty site for sure, but its not something that happens to every turbo Eclipse. Ones that have been modded have a higher chance of it occuring.
  • acm5acm5 Member Posts: 2
    Crankwalk is the result of the crankshaft thrust bearings wearing out, the crankshaft can then slide a few thou longitudinally and, on 2Gs, this causes the Crankshaft Position Sensor to get damaged and the engine stops running. The crankshaft also suffers damage once the thrust bearings wear out, just as it does when any crank bearing wears; usually the wear damages teh crank before the sensor.

    1Gs also suffer crankwalk, however they don't have a crank sensor, so they can tolerate considerably more wear.

    I have three 125,000+ 2Gs with no crankwalk, it is by no means epidemic.
  • xtrmxtrm Member Posts: 1
    I am in the market for a new clutch due to the stock one taking a crap on me in the middle of a race... I need your help on what to purchase. If you have any fiirst hand info (i.e.- own a certain one or use it to race or what have you) then please let me know what would be good.

    THE ONES I AM LOOKING AT NOW:
    Exedy stage 2 thick cerametalic
    Centerforce 903901
    Spec Clutch stage 2 sm582
    ACT stage 2

    So far I really like the Exedy on paper but want to know how it drives... my car is an everyday driver and not pumped up yet.

    thanks ahead of time.
  • frus95frus95 Member Posts: 1
    I own a '95 Eclipse non-turbo five speed with 130,000 miles. It will run fine when first started and until it warms up. Then it goes crazy. It shutters it all gears while accelerating and when clutching will sometimes go dead. It idles up and down on its on. We have sat and watched idle up and down until it finally shuts down. It will start right back up but again it starts idling up and down. Let it cool and everything once again seems fine. While it is idling up and down it seems to be firing only on one cylinder. It spews white smoke from seemingly everywhere. We have replaced: oxygen sensor, throttle position sensor, air intake sensor, idle air valve, fuel filter, plugs, plug wires and the ECM. Nothing has changed. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!
  • moneyb03moneyb03 Member Posts: 5
    i have 96'eclipse RS. Recently had problems with it cutting off as i'm slowing down. Car runs fine while i'm driving but has i slow down for turns or at a stop light and get down in the rpms the gauge will just drop and it cuts off often unless i give it gas. It will idle just fine while not in motion, only seems to act up when i'm stopping and it doesn't always do it. I had one day that it did it everytime i got in the car the next day it worked fine and it is going back and forth. Any suggestions?? Thanks
  • moneyb03moneyb03 Member Posts: 5
    oh yeah it has 101,000 miles on it. Is that a fuel filter or pump problem? Or something else altogether?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Try cleaning the throttle body. Mitsubishis are very susceptible to engine stalling after years of grunge has plugged up the 2 air bypass holes that allow the engine to idle when the throttle plate is closed. You need to take off the flexible black plastic tube that runs from the air filter to the throttle body. Buy a can of throttle body cleaner (for fuel injected cars, not carbureators) and spray it in the throttle body. Manually open the throttle plate by pulling on the throttle cable and spray all around the plate. Wipe out as much of the gunk as you can with a cloth towel, using something long to push the towel deep. You will find that the towel turns pitch black very quick. When you restart the car, it will run rough for about a minute but once the cleaner is burned off, it will run normal again. This should greatly improve your idle and will probably fix your stalling problem. If it doesn't, another possible problem is a clogged up or malfunctioning idle control motor. This is another common failure on high mileage Mitsus, but a much more expensive fix.
  • moneyb03moneyb03 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. I'll have to try that out this weekend. I know a little about cars but am no genius by any stretch. how easy is it to getto the throttle body and do that cleaning you mentioned without me screwing up my car?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    It's actually quite easy. The total process should take no more then 30 minutes and you really should only have to lossen one clamp with a screwdriver. Look for the long elbow shaped hard black plastic tube that runs from the air filter box to the engine. Where this tube ends on the engine is the throttle body. Loosen the clamp that holds the tube to the throttle body and pull the tube free. It will probably look pitch black in there from a lot of built up carbon. Take the can of throttle body cleaner and spray it in the opening. Soak it real good. You will see a plate that is closed a few inches inside the throttle body. This is the throttle plate. Open the plate by pulling on the throttle cable and spray around the opening. Clean all grunge out with a good quality white towel. You don't want to use anything that will leave fuzz in there to get into the engine (Walmart sells a 3 pack of cloth baby diapers in automotive that would be perfect for this task). You may have to use a screwdriver or something similar to push the towel in deeper since the opening is too small to get your hands in. Depending on how deep the throttle plate is inside the opening, you might can see 2 small pin holes, 1 above the throttle plate and one below. Make sure you clean around these holes well, as this is how the car idles. When you are done, the inside should be the color of smooth metal. Just reattach the air intake tube and your done! Using poor quality gas will cause the throttle body to carbon up faster so try to stick with namebrand gas stations. It's a very minor process and the chance of you messing things up is very slim. And remember, the car will run real rough for about a minute after you start the car. It will smooth itself out so don't freak out. You can give it a little gas to rev it up and burn out the cleaner faster.

    This process should help as I used to have a 93 Diamante with a stalling problem just like yours. It didn't always do it and would only stall when slowing down for a stopsign or light. Cleaning the throttle body completely fixed the problem. So, good luck, and let me know what the outcome is.
  • eclipsegsteclipsegst Member Posts: 1
    I'm trying to buy a car from a junkyard to get parts for my eclipse...does the body parts of the gs model fit the body of a gs-t? specificly the door, fender, and rear panel...when they say that the gs-t has a mold cladding, what's mold cladding? If any body can reply to and give me any info..please do, thanx
  • moneyb03moneyb03 Member Posts: 5
    lngtonge18

    Meant to get back on sooner and let you know how it turned out with my eclipse. After i took you up on your suggestion i haven't had that same problem since. It was pretty dirty in there. It was hard to get it cleaned out very well because the opening was so small. I didn't want the wipe to get stuck in there (which it almost did) My car has come close to doign in once or twice in the last week but that is probably also a product of the cold and i probably need to go back in and find a way to clean it out a little more. thanks again. you probably saved me a good bit of dough from taking it to the shop.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Glad to know I could help! You are very welcome :)
  • celica20celica20 Member Posts: 3
    i'm a longtime celica owner but it looks like i can't get a new one in my area. thinking of the eclipse as the syling is great, but is the car reliable as Toyota? Want reliable, easy to fix (rarely needed) , car similar to celica. seems from what i read on the board that there's alot of lemons from mitsubishi. experiences? thanks.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    The 95-99 Eclipses equipped with the Dodge Neon engine has had its fair share of problems. But the 2000-05 models are 100% Mitsubishi and very reliable. No major or common problems with these cars. It does have a different personality compared to the Celica though. The Celica is more of a light tossable car with a high winding low torque engine. The Eclipse is not quite as agile, has a heavier feel to it, and uses strong low end torque four cylinder and V6 engines. If you need an automatic, either Eclipse will be a more satisfying daily performer then the anemic Celica.
  • sean3sean3 Member Posts: 158
    daoes anybody know what kind of Autotrans fluid is For use with 2004 Mitsubishi's? Manual says Diamond SPIII fluid, but parts store does not carry any such thing, but they say ATF+3 is for use in "most" mitsubishi's, it is chrysler's specs for use with mitsu also,

       The reason I ask is My trans fluid dipstick was taken out and mis-placed for over 6,000 miles thru snow rain, dirt roads, puddles etc...And My friend and I can change it but I don;t want to put in the wrong fluid...Is Mercon/dexron III or ATF+III both ok? Any ideas , Thanks, Sean
  • infinitiboiinfinitiboi Member Posts: 6
    im in the market looking at an 02 gs white with 30k and everything stock for 10300 is that a good deal what kind of problems should i be expecting out of it it was a repo from wells fargo bank and the girl is a friend claiming to be getting me the "hookup" but she has no other info other than the options it has and mileage so im wondering if anyof u guys could help on whether i should go for it and if i do should i expect to haveta start replacing parts soon... thanks for any help

    Chris
  • sean3sean3 Member Posts: 158
    Chris, during my search for my new Mitsu the 2.4L they have used for years seems like a solid proven engine, Be careful with a repo, you stated wells-fargo, my guess is it would have been a Mitsubishi Credit repo, not an independent bank, considering the millions of dollars Mitsu swallowed for bad loans, seems like a fair price thats what the '02 Galants are going for here, and Eclipses generally sold for about 1,000 more than the same year galant here anyways, By all means spend $100 to get It looked over, if nothing more than piece of mind,not to sound paranoid but just be carefull with especially a repo unit, my friend knew he was going to get his truck repoed a a couple weeks in advance and drove the hell outa it, besides a hard impact on the underside, im sure the motor aged quickly those couple weeks. Deffinetly Run a Carfax on it for $15.00 very cheap re assurance, I'm sure the bank has a certain Level of care when re-selling a repo unit, but who knows..Have fun, good luck mitsus are fun :)
  • infinitiboiinfinitiboi Member Posts: 6
    i got the car checked out on carfax and it had 11 things on there few accidents a broken windshield and such so naturally i declind the car and so thats that ill prolly just take some time and save up for a new car or a more reputable seller who will be upfront about problems with it so again thanks for the idea about carfax
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    Anyone care to guess as to how low the i4 and V6 versions of the Eclipse will go? I see that the TMV price is around $22K now as listed on Edmunds. The new Mustang V6 sells for less than that as listed price. Before the new 2006 Eclipse hits the sales floor, will we see $4000 off on those instock? I can see $18k for a v6 and maybe as high as $17k for an i4 with some options, but over $20k for a front wheel drive and a company so near to going bust, I can not believe those prices will hold. If the all new ones start under $20k, then just maybe a year older design, with consideration of the resale value is worth around $16K ? Anyone out there getting super deals yet???

     

    Loren
  • yearofroosteryearofrooster Member Posts: 1
    Hi guys and gals,

    I purchased a 2004 RS model last September. In less than 4 months the condenser had a leak. Dealer service dept. claimed that a piece of rock or metal might have got in and damaged the condenser during driving. I had to pay 800 to repair the condenser of a brand new car. Really upset. Anyone had the same piece of bad luck or it is just me? Any advise? Thanks.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    It happens. Stroke of bad luck on your part, but I have heard this complaint once before on this board. Large grill openings increase the chance flying objects can damage the condenser and radiator. The Eclipse has a pretty big opening. I would suggest buying some metal mesh from your local hardware store and install it behind the bumper cover so that it covers the large center opening. This should keep it from occuring again.
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    Ah, yes, the no grill problem. A Miata does not have a grill, but there are aftermarket inexpensive ones to be have for say $20. I added one to my car. Sorry to hear of the damage done to your car. There must be a way to put a protective grill in the opening. Better luck ahead to ya!

    Loren
  • erlindaerlinda Member Posts: 8
    Hi,

    I'm working with my son on his '91 Eclipse, 1.8l, manual trans, non-turbo. The darn thing just won't start. He has replaced the TPS, the ECM (it was bad), plugs, wires, throttle control relay (it tested bad), and tested many more components than have been replaced, including the IATC & motor. The engine cranks but won't start. The distributor is putting out just over 12 volts. The fuel pump is putting fuel to the injector rails, the injectors have been cleaned and checked. The #3 plug is not sparking as strongly as the others, could this be a distributor problem? We're stumped. Has anyone else had this problem and how did it get resolved.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Go over to the "Maintenance" section of this website, and post this question int the "Got a Quick Techinical Question" Forum. There are some pretty astute mechanics over there that can probably help you.
  • erlindaerlinda Member Posts: 8
    Thanks!
  • hebbianxhebbianx Member Posts: 1
    I just got a 1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse and the hood seems to be stuck. It woeked fine yesterday, then it stoped working. The hood popper doesn't seem to work anymore so it won't release the hood. I've tried looking underneath the car, but I can't seem to find the release mechanism. Any ideas how to get the bottom of this problems? Thanks.
  • saravsarav Member Posts: 4
    Hi,

    I'm looking at a white 2000 GT with 62K miles on it for a price of 11300. Is that a good deal? What kind of problems can I expect from it? Will the car touch 120K miles without any major problems? How reliable is the V6 engine? I will be glad if this car works for another 3 to 4 years without too much maintenance charge (ie only regular stuff like oil change, brakes, etc). What is the actual mpg the 2000 GT gives? I will be driving it in San Diego, CA (to and from work).

    Thanks,
    Sarav
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    Since you can buy a new 2005, after discounts, for $16,500, I would say a 2000 GT is overpriced. The 3.0 engine is OK, though I have seen some puffing a bit of blue smoke as they age. Overall it has been a good workhorse engine powering a lot of cars Mitsu. and DamlierChrysler products. It takes a bit more gas than the i4 engine, and it requires premium, so I would recommend the i4, which has generous horse power anyway. If you want a V6, for around $12k+ you could buy a Mustang in years 2003 or 2004. If you get an Eclipse, I would shoot for around the same price in the i4 cyl. engine - same years and give or take a thousand. If you want as close to 100% reliability, go with a Corolla or Civic which start around $14k with a stick, on up. You may look at Hyundai Elantra too. I like the looks of the Eclipse, so I can see why you are interested in that car. They are pretty good GT cars in that they are a more relaxed ride than previous model of the Eclipse, or a Celica. So for commuting and some fun driving it is an OK mix. I do like the Mustang for safety, as you are in lots of traffic, and they are 5 star rated. Rear wheel drive cars in the long run may cost less to maintain, and resale remains somewhere in the avg, to better than avg. range. The Eclipse may prove worse than average for resale, so you need to buy new at a discount and hold, or buy used for a low price, like you are thinking about, though that deal seems a bit high. And V6 in Eclipse is premium gas, vs. Mustang regular gas. Gas this Summer could be $3 or more and next year, who knows, maybe $3.50 or more, if you can get it??? We are close to $2.50 right now for regular at the discount stations - ouch!!!
    Loren
  • markcmarkc Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone has problems with the emission of their Eclispe? I own a 98' GS with under 75K miles and it fail emission with HC being too high. Any help is appreciated.
  • saravsarav Member Posts: 4
    Hi Loren,

    Your comment was really valuable. I have some questions on them. You say a new 2005 eclipse GT can be bought for around $16500 - I checked carsdirect.com and the price (with auto transmission) after discount is $21,682. If you can show me some place to get the 2005 GT for ~ $16K I could use that to bargain on the used 2000 GT. Official Mitsu site puts it at ~$24K.

    I have a friend who has a 1999 Plymoth neon (the highest model that year) and I was driving it for a month or so. We went together to checkout a used 2001 GS ($9900) and he felt it wasn't even as good (in terms of the acceleration) as the Neon. The Eclipse is heavier than the neon and that makes up for the small diff in the HP. Actually the neon might have a higher HP than the 2001 Eclipse GS.

    Btw, I haven't owned a car before and I'm not a racing type of guy either. Just a fresh graduate still acting like a college student :). For some reason I don't like the looks of a Mustang (compared to the Eclipse) and a friend who has a Mustang said the suspensions were horrible. Think the Mustang would be more gas hungry than the Eclipse of comparable HP -- just a guess. Also, my actual plan was to stay within $10K.

    Btw, do you own an Eclipse? If so what's the make, year and the milage on it? I will repeat a question I asked before, How long can I expect this car to run without major problems if I buy it? The 2000 GT car has ABS and Leather seats. So what price do you think I should get the car for? I'm asking for $10K but the dealer claims his price is the lowest I can find on the interner (seems to be true but one never buys at first stated price).

    Thanks,
    Sarav
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    No, the $16,500 one is NOT a GT, but a 4 cylinder. Gas is too high in Calif. to consider a car that uses premium gas, I would think, unless you have money to burn on every commute. With a stick, you get more spirit to the drive, but with an automatic, it still may be adequate. The price aforementioned was for a stick, no doubt. For $1Ok, you should be able to get a low mileage Eclipse. See:
    http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/default.aspx?state=used&make=Mitsubishi&model=Eclipse&sr- c=LeftNav#used
    If you are looking for reliability Eclipse is likely to be better than some USA models, and less so than most Japan models, so place it around the realm of average to maybe better than average. I owned a Dodge Stealth which used the 3.0 engine when it burned regular gas. Well it was suppose to, but it worked best on 89 octane.
    The car had a bad manual tranny, but it was also the first car the dealer sold, and people had gone on demo rides and possibly chipped a gear in doing so. The car had more little things go wrong than an average Japan made make of car (Mitsu. made for Dodge). As for the dealer stating he can no go lower, well just wait and see. After sweating it out for a week or so, he or she, may phone back and say it is go - done deal at your price. Stand firm and do not get suckered into a repair warranty plan. Always remember, the dealer sharps have a sharper pencil than you do, so try to do your math and thinking ahead, and stand firm. Otherwise they will win. All parties need to profit from fair deal. They make a much larger margin on used cars, so the DO have room to deal. Kelly Blue Book is on the Internet. Just type in the word Kelly in Firefox and hit enter on the keyboard. If not using Firefox browser, by all means get it - you'll love it!
    Or use Google, type in Kelly, then use the " I'm feeling lucky" in Google. This works for many a site. As for a most reliable commuter car, the Honda and Corolla are awesome. I have a Corolla and the auto transmission is still smooth at 80K miles. The engine is smoother than a new car. I have had good luck with my Miata. Those look good, get up to 30 MPG on the freeway. You can get an automatic with those too. Would need to buy a roll bar, and stay away from SUVs :-)

    Loren
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    With a new 2006 Eclipse on the way, you can expect the price on used models to lower by this summer noticeably. So take into account a possible extra hit to used car prices coming soon.

    Loren
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    So " sarav " what is the verdict? If you really want that Eclipse at the dealership, try to get closer to private party price, sub $10K

    Loren
  • saravsarav Member Posts: 4
    Hi Loren,

    I was in a hurry to get a car (starting work in a week) and liked the Mitsubishi Eclipse 2000 GT, so got it for $11099+tax. I guess I paid more than it deserves but dunno... guess I'm a bad negotiator :(. Also not many used GT + automatic transmissions available. Kinda consoling myself that the price is okay because the GT is loaded - power driver seat, 4 CD changer, side airbags, rear spoiler, rear wiper, sun roof, etc. Probably most of these are standard in the GT though.

    The main reason I'm posting now is because the SRS light is turning on while driving and then goes off after a while when I'm driving. This keeps repeating now and then. When I read the manual it says that it indicates a problem with the air bag systems :( and I should do a check. This is just the FIRST DAY of owning the car and it's already showing problems :(. Has anyone encountered this problem before?

    Also I thought the v6 was a 6 cylinder engine and learnt it was only a 4 cylinder engine after the deal was through. I can't blame the dealer for this, but I was weighing the price of the car with the thought that the engine was a 6 cylinder one and now I feel cheated :(.

    Hopefully the SRS light problem won't be too expensive to fix and the GT won't give too many problems.

    Thanks,
    Sarav
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    A V6 is 6 cylinders, in V shaped configuration. The GT is a V6. If it is an i4, it is another model. Nice engine for a smooth ride, but it takes premium gas. That said, you should be able to use regular and the computer in the car will readjust to it. You just would have less HP as the engine resets to use regular. If it pings, then put 89 in and if it still pings, then go back to premium gas. If it is the air bag light going on, take it back to the dealer. They should fix that. Can't sell you a car with a possible safety defect. It is likely a problem with the light, but have it checked out. If you know someone that is a mechanic, have that person look at car - just a quick once over and get an opinion on the light coming on too. Anyway, brakes and safety bag and such must be in working order before the sale, so take it back and have it fixed at the dealer where bought. And have fun with the new car. V6=GT

    Loren
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    Here is something I found on the Net:
    Examples of common situations that cause the airbag/SRS light:

    * A loose connector
    * Alarm Installation
    * Stereo Installation
    * Seat removal
    * Seat upgrade
    * Seat belt replacement
    * Steering Wheel removal
    * Steering Wheel upgrade
    * Fuse Removal
    * A corroded connector
    * Unplugged Wiring harness
    * Body Work
    * Engine compartment work

    And when you take the car in, tell them it goes on and
    off while driving and not between turning car on and
    off. Did they show you a Car Fax history? Did you ask them if it has ever been in a wreck? I had a service engine light come on one day. The next day I thought I would have to take it in to the dealer, but it cleared itself. Since this involves the SRS light, do have it checked and try to get to the bottom of it all. Since this is connected to the safety equipment required by law, I assume it has to work to sell the car. Since it is not working the first day, you should contact them ASAP. If they back away from fixing it, contact the government agency and see what they have to say. Maybe they will fix it with a smile and you are on your way - no problem. Hope it goes that way.
  • saravsarav Member Posts: 4
    Hi Loren,

    Thanks a lot for the info. I googled again and I now see that the v6 is infact a 6 cylinder engine. Feels a lot better.

    I didn't ask for CarFax from the dealer or ask if the car was in a wreck (should probably have asked!), but I ordered the Carfax myself before purchasing the car. Didn't have any kind of wreck. The only noteworthy points were that it was a corporate lease vehicle and the only odometer reading was at 82 miles. But that's ok.

    As for selling the car without safety features, I'm not sure how it holds for used cars. What is the government agency I should contact regarding this? DMV? The bad part is, I will be leaving for CA in less than a week. I'm in OH now.

    Thanks a lot Loren.
    -Sarav
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    Take it back to dealer A.S.A.P. and tell them what it is doing and that it needs to be fixed. Contact the local DMV and they can tell you what agency has the rules as to how a cars condition must be at sales time in respect to safety warning lights. The AAA club could help. Here call this number 1-888-327-4236 at the National Auto Safety. They can let you know what condition a car must be in before selling to a customer. Let them know you are in Ohio and that the light came on the same day as purchase. Copy down the name of the person you talked to at the number above. You need to know more about your rights than you do now. I don't have the answers on this, but I think the person on the other end of the phone may. Good luck!

    Loren, in sunny, finally sunny, central coast of california
  • jorgeeclipsejorgeeclipse Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 95 Eclipse GS M/T that won't start for nothing. The fuel pump was replaced along with both relays next to the brake cylinder, also the oil pressure switch, the cam position sensor, and the computer were replaced. The ignition switch seems to be working fine. When I turn the key the engine turns, but there's no fuel or spark, unless I ground the relays directly. Also the OBDII scanner gives an ERR code after it links with the computer, which I think is not turning on at all. Someone mentioned the MFI relay, which neither I nor Chilton knows where is located, since they only make an honorary mention of it in the manual. Any help will be greatly appreciated
  • vashvash Member Posts: 1
    you can get a grill for the front and grillcraft.com and put in yourself and it makes a real good look for you car and does lowwer the insurance i believe .
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    Sarav,
    Did they trace the source of the SRS light coming on problem?
    Did you call the number provided in post #203? One more thing
    before you did across the country, be sure to check all fluids in
    the car and tires. The dealers and oil shops never seem to get
    it right. Be sure air is right on the mark before leaving for CA.
    Air pressure to use is likely stated in the glove box door or on
    the car door side. Could be on door latch side too - just look.

    :) Loren
  • ktaynorktaynor Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Mitsubishi eclipse and it will not turn over. i replaced the fuel pump, but that did not help. when i test the fuel pump by itself it runs, but when i start the car the fuel pump was not running i have know idea what is wrong PLEASE HELP :cry:
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Check the fuel pump relay. When the fuel pump won't run, the relay or the fuse is the culprit.
  • 92tbluesiawd92tbluesiawd Member Posts: 1
    probably the throttle position sensor
  • tinman4tinman4 Member Posts: 1
    My sister was just deployed overseas and she left me her 99 Eclipse to care for in her absence. I have started the car at least twice a month for the past five months and drove it for at least 20 minutes each time. Last week, I drove the car to work and had no problems. When I tried to start it to go home, it would only turn over but wouldn't fire. I tested the wiring to the fuel pump. The fuel pump works. The fuse panel has one fuse that tested hot on both leads. I think it was labeled "engine". The problem doesn't appear to be the relay or the fuel pump. Any thoughts?
  • deanna008deanna008 Member Posts: 1
    Hey. I also have a 2001 eclipse with a keyless remote but I do not know or have any instructions to get the remote set up to my car? Thanks
  • lhesslhess Member Posts: 379
    i think those transmitters have to be done at the dealership - that's where I had mine programmed. Also, my 01 spyder did not have a trunk release on the remote.
  • hoodprobhoodprob Member Posts: 1
    Hello this is my first post on this site, I just bought my 2003 eclipse for about 13000. it had about 36,000 miles on it, Recently I took it to get its frist oil change and they could not open the hood. So now i have to take it to the dealership and they are already assuming no liability for this problem. I think this could be very exspensive and I dont really know what to or what steps I could take to get this resolved...just wonding if any has any ideas?? Thanks
  • m1miatam1miata Member Posts: 4,551
    Ask to speak to the owner of the car dealership. Politely state your case / possible dilemma which could be resolved to everyone's satisfaction without much money involved. Hope that works.

    Loren
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