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Comments
1Gs also suffer crankwalk, however they don't have a crank sensor, so they can tolerate considerably more wear.
I have three 125,000+ 2Gs with no crankwalk, it is by no means epidemic.
THE ONES I AM LOOKING AT NOW:
Exedy stage 2 thick cerametalic
Centerforce 903901
Spec Clutch stage 2 sm582
ACT stage 2
So far I really like the Exedy on paper but want to know how it drives... my car is an everyday driver and not pumped up yet.
thanks ahead of time.
This process should help as I used to have a 93 Diamante with a stalling problem just like yours. It didn't always do it and would only stall when slowing down for a stopsign or light. Cleaning the throttle body completely fixed the problem. So, good luck, and let me know what the outcome is.
Meant to get back on sooner and let you know how it turned out with my eclipse. After i took you up on your suggestion i haven't had that same problem since. It was pretty dirty in there. It was hard to get it cleaned out very well because the opening was so small. I didn't want the wipe to get stuck in there (which it almost did) My car has come close to doign in once or twice in the last week but that is probably also a product of the cold and i probably need to go back in and find a way to clean it out a little more. thanks again. you probably saved me a good bit of dough from taking it to the shop.
The reason I ask is My trans fluid dipstick was taken out and mis-placed for over 6,000 miles thru snow rain, dirt roads, puddles etc...And My friend and I can change it but I don;t want to put in the wrong fluid...Is Mercon/dexron III or ATF+III both ok? Any ideas , Thanks, Sean
Chris
Loren
I purchased a 2004 RS model last September. In less than 4 months the condenser had a leak. Dealer service dept. claimed that a piece of rock or metal might have got in and damaged the condenser during driving. I had to pay 800 to repair the condenser of a brand new car. Really upset. Anyone had the same piece of bad luck or it is just me? Any advise? Thanks.
Loren
I'm working with my son on his '91 Eclipse, 1.8l, manual trans, non-turbo. The darn thing just won't start. He has replaced the TPS, the ECM (it was bad), plugs, wires, throttle control relay (it tested bad), and tested many more components than have been replaced, including the IATC & motor. The engine cranks but won't start. The distributor is putting out just over 12 volts. The fuel pump is putting fuel to the injector rails, the injectors have been cleaned and checked. The #3 plug is not sparking as strongly as the others, could this be a distributor problem? We're stumped. Has anyone else had this problem and how did it get resolved.
I'm looking at a white 2000 GT with 62K miles on it for a price of 11300. Is that a good deal? What kind of problems can I expect from it? Will the car touch 120K miles without any major problems? How reliable is the V6 engine? I will be glad if this car works for another 3 to 4 years without too much maintenance charge (ie only regular stuff like oil change, brakes, etc). What is the actual mpg the 2000 GT gives? I will be driving it in San Diego, CA (to and from work).
Thanks,
Sarav
Loren
Your comment was really valuable. I have some questions on them. You say a new 2005 eclipse GT can be bought for around $16500 - I checked carsdirect.com and the price (with auto transmission) after discount is $21,682. If you can show me some place to get the 2005 GT for ~ $16K I could use that to bargain on the used 2000 GT. Official Mitsu site puts it at ~$24K.
I have a friend who has a 1999 Plymoth neon (the highest model that year) and I was driving it for a month or so. We went together to checkout a used 2001 GS ($9900) and he felt it wasn't even as good (in terms of the acceleration) as the Neon. The Eclipse is heavier than the neon and that makes up for the small diff in the HP. Actually the neon might have a higher HP than the 2001 Eclipse GS.
Btw, I haven't owned a car before and I'm not a racing type of guy either. Just a fresh graduate still acting like a college student . For some reason I don't like the looks of a Mustang (compared to the Eclipse) and a friend who has a Mustang said the suspensions were horrible. Think the Mustang would be more gas hungry than the Eclipse of comparable HP -- just a guess. Also, my actual plan was to stay within $10K.
Btw, do you own an Eclipse? If so what's the make, year and the milage on it? I will repeat a question I asked before, How long can I expect this car to run without major problems if I buy it? The 2000 GT car has ABS and Leather seats. So what price do you think I should get the car for? I'm asking for $10K but the dealer claims his price is the lowest I can find on the interner (seems to be true but one never buys at first stated price).
Thanks,
Sarav
http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/default.aspx?state=used&make=Mitsubishi&model=Eclipse&sr- c=LeftNav#used
If you are looking for reliability Eclipse is likely to be better than some USA models, and less so than most Japan models, so place it around the realm of average to maybe better than average. I owned a Dodge Stealth which used the 3.0 engine when it burned regular gas. Well it was suppose to, but it worked best on 89 octane.
The car had a bad manual tranny, but it was also the first car the dealer sold, and people had gone on demo rides and possibly chipped a gear in doing so. The car had more little things go wrong than an average Japan made make of car (Mitsu. made for Dodge). As for the dealer stating he can no go lower, well just wait and see. After sweating it out for a week or so, he or she, may phone back and say it is go - done deal at your price. Stand firm and do not get suckered into a repair warranty plan. Always remember, the dealer sharps have a sharper pencil than you do, so try to do your math and thinking ahead, and stand firm. Otherwise they will win. All parties need to profit from fair deal. They make a much larger margin on used cars, so the DO have room to deal. Kelly Blue Book is on the Internet. Just type in the word Kelly in Firefox and hit enter on the keyboard. If not using Firefox browser, by all means get it - you'll love it!
Or use Google, type in Kelly, then use the " I'm feeling lucky" in Google. This works for many a site. As for a most reliable commuter car, the Honda and Corolla are awesome. I have a Corolla and the auto transmission is still smooth at 80K miles. The engine is smoother than a new car. I have had good luck with my Miata. Those look good, get up to 30 MPG on the freeway. You can get an automatic with those too. Would need to buy a roll bar, and stay away from SUVs :-)
Loren
Loren
Loren
I was in a hurry to get a car (starting work in a week) and liked the Mitsubishi Eclipse 2000 GT, so got it for $11099+tax. I guess I paid more than it deserves but dunno... guess I'm a bad negotiator . Also not many used GT + automatic transmissions available. Kinda consoling myself that the price is okay because the GT is loaded - power driver seat, 4 CD changer, side airbags, rear spoiler, rear wiper, sun roof, etc. Probably most of these are standard in the GT though.
The main reason I'm posting now is because the SRS light is turning on while driving and then goes off after a while when I'm driving. This keeps repeating now and then. When I read the manual it says that it indicates a problem with the air bag systems and I should do a check. This is just the FIRST DAY of owning the car and it's already showing problems . Has anyone encountered this problem before?
Also I thought the v6 was a 6 cylinder engine and learnt it was only a 4 cylinder engine after the deal was through. I can't blame the dealer for this, but I was weighing the price of the car with the thought that the engine was a 6 cylinder one and now I feel cheated .
Hopefully the SRS light problem won't be too expensive to fix and the GT won't give too many problems.
Thanks,
Sarav
Loren
Examples of common situations that cause the airbag/SRS light:
* A loose connector
* Alarm Installation
* Stereo Installation
* Seat removal
* Seat upgrade
* Seat belt replacement
* Steering Wheel removal
* Steering Wheel upgrade
* Fuse Removal
* A corroded connector
* Unplugged Wiring harness
* Body Work
* Engine compartment work
And when you take the car in, tell them it goes on and
off while driving and not between turning car on and
off. Did they show you a Car Fax history? Did you ask them if it has ever been in a wreck? I had a service engine light come on one day. The next day I thought I would have to take it in to the dealer, but it cleared itself. Since this involves the SRS light, do have it checked and try to get to the bottom of it all. Since this is connected to the safety equipment required by law, I assume it has to work to sell the car. Since it is not working the first day, you should contact them ASAP. If they back away from fixing it, contact the government agency and see what they have to say. Maybe they will fix it with a smile and you are on your way - no problem. Hope it goes that way.
Thanks a lot for the info. I googled again and I now see that the v6 is infact a 6 cylinder engine. Feels a lot better.
I didn't ask for CarFax from the dealer or ask if the car was in a wreck (should probably have asked!), but I ordered the Carfax myself before purchasing the car. Didn't have any kind of wreck. The only noteworthy points were that it was a corporate lease vehicle and the only odometer reading was at 82 miles. But that's ok.
As for selling the car without safety features, I'm not sure how it holds for used cars. What is the government agency I should contact regarding this? DMV? The bad part is, I will be leaving for CA in less than a week. I'm in OH now.
Thanks a lot Loren.
-Sarav
Loren, in sunny, finally sunny, central coast of california
Did they trace the source of the SRS light coming on problem?
Did you call the number provided in post #203? One more thing
before you did across the country, be sure to check all fluids in
the car and tires. The dealers and oil shops never seem to get
it right. Be sure air is right on the mark before leaving for CA.
Air pressure to use is likely stated in the glove box door or on
the car door side. Could be on door latch side too - just look.
Loren
Loren