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Honda Civic Care and Maintenance

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Comments

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    it should say on the oil filler cap what weight to use. you should be able to remove the filter by hand, if the previous oil chnager did everything by the book. You will need to buy some crush washers from Honda, they are a must when changing oil.
  • rowaxerowaxe Member Posts: 12
    The engine was working fine I thought, now it just rained and at idle speed, the engine keeps reving high and then dropping and almost sputtering out then back high and back low, over and over. I just got the car, so I don't know how long it's been doing this. Any suggestions? It doesn't do it when I first start the car, just when I drive it for a few minutes.
  • rowaxerowaxe Member Posts: 12
    Checked it today and it's still doing it. It's not raining now, but I'm not sure if it's still damp inside the engine. We drove it for half an hour and it's still doing it.
  • port_48port_48 Member Posts: 27
    My 02 DX Sedan was making a similar noise. I took it to the dealer before the 3 yr warranty ran out. They installed a new clutch master cylinder and the problem is fixed! They said there is a service bulletin out on the problem.
  • minorthingminorthing Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a new Honda Civic LX silver and I have a couple of questions for everyone.
    1). How long should I wait before I wax my car? I have heard that you should wait 3 months before waxing a brand new car.
    2.) What wax or car care products should I use (do you recomend)?
    3.) Does anyone have a link to a website with a wealth of informaiton about care and maitenence for new cars?

    Thanks :)
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    1. Wax immediately, if not sooner! The new car paints comes fully cured from the factory. If a car is repainted on the so called "after market" is the appropriate time to ask: how long to wait before re waxing.

    2. I would say what are your goals? Mine for example is a very high base line and a 10-14 year time horizon.

    3. I have a few favorites but do a search for car care and car care products and some will pop up.
  • ray12ray12 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Civic was just diagnosed with a crack in the exhaust manifold. I have 70,000 miles. Is this a common problem? Does $800 sound about right for parts & labor to repair?

    What are the common causes for the cracked manifold?

    Thanks for your help.
  • plaueplaue Member Posts: 8
    Hi Ya'll. A few weeks ago I had my timing belt / water pump replaced on my 98 Civic at the dealer. I noticed that the coolant in the reservoir is now blue in color, with a part number/description OL999-9011 Coolant TYP2 Blue).

    Anyone know if/when Honda changed their Type 2 coolant? I know Honda coolant used to be green in color. Or was some other fluid substituted in?

    Thanks!
  • chestnutchestnut Member Posts: 19
    The same thing happened to me on my 2000 Accord. They told me it was the long life coolant.
  • contrailcontrail Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 97 Honda Civic. Both outer CV boots are torn open. Not sure how long they have been torn. First, about how much to replace and repack the boots if
    the CV joints are not worn out. Second, about how much would one expect to pay
    to have the CV joints replaced altogether?
  • 87civichatch87civichatch Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I'm looking to find Honda clubs and folks in my geographic area who might be knowledgable about my 3rd generation civic. I know I need to do some repairs and maintenance, and I could use some advice about where to start.
    I may have already posted this request here and just couldn't find it when I came back to look tonight, so if I'm repeating myself I apologize.
    Thanks a bunch.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    My 2000 Civic was just diagnosed with a crack in the exhaust manifold. I have 70,000 miles. Is this a common problem? Does $800 sound about right for parts & labor to repair?

    What are the common causes for the cracked manifold?

    Thanks for your help.


    I would check to see if it is still covered under the 8 year/80,000 miles emissions warranty. I don't see why it would not be covered. Manifold is part of emissions control, and shoudl be covered under that part fo the warranty. Of course unless you are over the miles. In which case, you can call Honda Corporate and have them split the cost with you.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Hi Ya'll. A few weeks ago I had my timing belt / water pump replaced on my 98 Civic at the dealer. I noticed that the coolant in the reservoir is now blue in color, with a part number/description OL999-9011 Coolant TYP2 Blue).

    Anyone know if/when Honda changed their Type 2 coolant? I know Honda coolant used to be green in color. Or was some other fluid substituted in?

    Thanks!


    This is new to me. I bought coolant from Honda last summer when doing maintenance on my car and it was Green. My new CR-V comes with green coolant. That is very interesting. I wonder if they are mixable?
  • sequoia3sequoia3 Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone recommend a great Independent Honda Mechanic in the Central Texas Area? I am in Fredericksburg.

    Thanks. Sequoia3
  • pipipipi Member Posts: 4
    Hi, everyone.
    I own an 04 civic VP. The mileage is about 11k. At this point I changed the engine oil at a local shop(This is the second lube service since I purchased this car). Now there is a few oil leaking underneath which never happened before. Since I don't know much about car, there is no conclusion I could make by myself. However I would assume that guy who changed the oil did something wrong, maybe the oil was over added. Could anyone give me some comments, and if this will eventually damage the engine?

    thanks!
  • slbibleslbible Member Posts: 14
    First off, yes your car's engine will be damaged if there's no oil! How much oil is leaking (one/two drops or a puddle)? If just drops then check the oil level (refer to your owners manual for this procedure), then take it back to the shop that did the oil change. There are a number of things that could cause the leak. Here are some examples: 1. forgot the drain plug washer. 2. overtightened the drain plug and cracked the oil pan. 3. oil filter not tight enough. 4. Oil filter gasket missing which would not allow the oil filter to seat properly. 5. Could just be that they spilled a little on the cross member and that's what you're seeing.

    I would definitly check the oil level and if everything looks good, drive it back to the local shop and speak to someone other than the guy that changed the oil and have them verify where the oil is coming from. Better yet, take it to someone you know you can trust.
  • dlsmith29dlsmith29 Member Posts: 1
    Do they stretch, though? A mechanic-friend told me that he can not adjust the timing to correct for a retarding (12 vs 16°BTDC) from the manufacturer [and state smog]-specification. Should I be able to advance this myself with the aid of an inductive timing light ? I am un-skilled in automotive maintenance, so I appreciate your consideration of my deficiency in any technical response.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Hi, everyone.
    I own an 04 civic VP. The mileage is about 11k. At this point I changed the engine oil at a local shop(This is the second lube service since I purchased this car). Now there is a few oil leaking underneath which never happened before. Since I don't know much about car, there is no conclusion I could make by myself. However I would assume that guy who changed the oil did something wrong, maybe the oil was over added. Could anyone give me some comments, and if this will eventually damage the engine?

    thanks!


    Sounds like you went to a Non-Honda shop and they did not give you the new crush washer, but rather put the old one back and torqued it to the max. You better pray that they did not strip the thread in the alluminum pan. It is also possible that they did such a sloppy job and spilled oil all over.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Do they stretch, though? A mechanic-friend told me that he can not adjust the timing to correct for a retarding (12 vs 16°BTDC) from the manufacturer [and state smog]-specification. Should I be able to advance this myself with the aid of an inductive timing light ? I am un-skilled in automotive maintenance, so I appreciate your consideration of my deficiency in any technical response.

    I belive the timing light will only tell you about the ignition, and I think you are talking about Valves.
    Timing belts better not stretch, or it will mess up the whole engine. IF yor timing is off, that could mean that when the belt was installed they did not align the markings correctly, or it is so old that it indeed stretched and has to be replaced IMMEDIATLEY!. If you want to get adjustability, you would probably need to get AEM adjustable sprokets.
  • polymorphapolymorpha Member Posts: 16
    Another possible cause of the drip is that some residue from the oil filter gasket was not removed before they put on the new filter. If you could figure out where the drip is coming from it would help sort out the alternatives. Definitely take it back to where the work was done and request that they make it right.
  • johnsmith888johnsmith888 Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,
    I have a black 4-door 98 Civic LX and over the years, many stupid ppl have dinged my car doors with their car doors in parking lots (despite me being careful about where I park) leaving some significant (a) dings and (b) many paint scratches. Can anyone recommend how I can get these out without having to pay thousands to replace the doors?

    Thanks!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Hi everyone,
    I have a black 4-door 98 Civic LX and over the years, many stupid ppl have dinged my car doors with their car doors in parking lots (despite me being careful about where I park) leaving some significant (a) dings and (b) many paint scratches. Can anyone recommend how I can get these out without having to pay thousands to replace the doors?

    Thanks!


    You can call Paintless dent removal people, but if the paint is broken you would have to go to a body shop to have it painted. You could buy touch up paint at the dealer and touch it up your self. Another option is to find exactly the same color car at the junk yard that has no dents and swap the doors.
  • paul26paul26 Member Posts: 3
    This one is about a Honda Civic DX, 1998, 3Dr hatchback.
    The mileage on this car is 78,000 miles.

    The problem:
    When I turn my key to the ON position, before starting the engine, all of the warning lights come on and then go OFF as they should. However, sometimes the red check engine light goes OFF and then immediately comes back ON for 3-4 secs. Is this a sign of some big problem waiting to happen?

    Otherwise, the car runs nice and smooth( mileage is 25 MPG in city). There is no sign of an oil leak or anything that might cause reduced oil pressure.

    About maintainance of the car: I always check the oil level monthly and get oil change every 3000 miles.

    Any hints about what might be causing this ?

    Thanks.
    Paul
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    This one is about a Honda Civic DX, 1998, 3Dr hatchback.
    The mileage on this car is 78,000 miles.

    The problem:
    When I turn my key to the ON position, before starting the engine, all of the warning lights come on and then go OFF as they should. However, sometimes the red check engine light goes OFF and then immediately comes back ON for 3-4 secs. Is this a sign of some big problem waiting to happen?

    Otherwise, the car runs nice and smooth( mileage is 25 MPG in city). There is no sign of an oil leak or anything that might cause reduced oil pressure.

    About maintainance of the car: I always check the oil level monthly and get oil change every 3000 miles.

    Any hints about what might be causing this ?

    Thanks.
    Paul


    "Check engine light" should be orange, "low oil pressure light" is red. Which is it?
  • jsmartjsmart Member Posts: 3
    I just had my 1997 civic serviced for the first time. It has 87,000+ and still had the original break pads on it. I had those replaced the cv boot covers, the timing belt and the main belt, also new plugs and fuel filter. This all cost $1,047. I love this car and don't think that is alot of money considering I have only replaced the exhaust and am on my second set of tires. My oil & filter were changed every 2500-3500 miles. It is still running strong and would buy another one in a heart beat. My mileage is around 32 mpg. The reason I never had any service done on it was because I was stationed over seas 2 months after I bought it new, not because I wanted to test my luck. Anyway great cars enjoy the new ones!
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Except for the CV boot covers you've done scheduled maintenance. Probably one of the reasons why Civic is one of the least cost to operate per mile driven leaders! There is no reason why you should not get INXS of 250,000 miles.
  • paul26paul26 Member Posts: 3
    It's the "low oil pressure light" (red).
    Thanks.
  • iamadorkiamadork Member Posts: 3
    I just got a '98 Civic DX 5-speed hatchback and am looking for an owner’s manual. Until then...I really want to know the suggested MPH ranges for each gear.

    I know it's a bit dorky--but I like knowing. I can hear and feel what gear I should be in, but I just want to be anal. If anyone has access to the manual and could tell me, I would be really happy!! Thanks!!
  • paul26paul26 Member Posts: 3
    Recommended Shift Points for Shift Up:

    Shift up---- Normal acceleration (Cruise from acceleration)
    1st to 2nd----- 15 mph ( 9 mph)
    2nd to 3rd---- 27 mph (20 mph)
    3rd to 4th ---- 39 mph (33 mph)
    4th to 5th---- 53 mph (48 mph)

    Before downshifting, make sure the vehicle will not exceed the maximum speed in the chart in the lower gear:

    Gear --- Maximum Speed
    1st --- 35 mph
    2nd --- 64 mph
    3rd --- 100 mph
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    It's the "low oil pressure light" (red).
    Thanks.


    Momentary oil light coming on may be a sign of low oil, but you said you check the oil regularly. When checking oil level make sure the car is level and cool. If it has been driven recently, wait 30 minutes or more. What grade of oil are you using? Thicker than recommended oils may cause oil starvation on start up.
  • iamadorkiamadork Member Posts: 3
    whoo hoo!! Thank You!!!!
  • plasdomplasdom Member Posts: 7
    I have a 96 honda civic coupe with 96000 miles. The Oxygen sensor has failed again (according to check engine light code). That thing is expensive to replace at a dealer. I heard Honda has some sort of extended emissions warranty which may cover its replacement. Where can I find information about this? I tried searching the forum.

    The service division of honda dealers I have called either claim they don't know or want me to bring it in. Last place I called said that sometimes these places that pull the code don't really know what they are doing and wanted me to bring it in saying that they "evaluate everything on a case by case basis." I know some of these rip-offs charge $70+ just to pull the code and tell you what it is claiming that it is "system diagnostics."

    Sorry for the long post but I have already spent a tidy sum changing brakes (which I don't want to skimp on) and exhaust. I have a long road trip coming up and my mpg has dropped to < 30. How do proceed on getting this repaired as cheaply as possible.

    Thanks
  • nraughlinraughli Member Posts: 1
    what happen when your car feel like it shaking and jumping. Also the car sound like freaken Helicopter when I drive it. So what do you guy think is wrong with my car ? . Do you guy think it bad? and how much will it Cost? to fix if I can?.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a 96 honda civic coupe with 96000 miles. The Oxygen sensor has failed again (according to check engine light code). That thing is expensive to replace at a dealer. I heard Honda has some sort of extended emissions warranty which may cover its replacement. Where can I find information about this? I tried searching the forum.

    The service division of honda dealers I have called either claim they don't know or want me to bring it in. Last place I called said that sometimes these places that pull the code don't really know what they are doing and wanted me to bring it in saying that they "evaluate everything on a case by case basis." I know some of these rip-offs charge $70+ just to pull the code and tell you what it is claiming that it is "system diagnostics."

    Sorry for the long post but I have already spent a tidy sum changing brakes (which I don't want to skimp on) and exhaust. I have a long road trip coming up and my mpg has dropped to


    Emissions warranty is 8 years and 80,000 miles.
  • plasdomplasdom Member Posts: 7
    great. so I am SOL. what is the cheapest way to change this?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    great. so I am SOL. what is the cheapest way to change this?

    Buy a BOSCH replacement O2 sensor from Autozone or Pepboys. The OEM is probably made by Bocsh anyway.
  • plasdomplasdom Member Posts: 7
    How tough is it to change it. I have not done any work on a car before (know how to check oil and other things) Can change the air filter :)
  • karma1karma1 Member Posts: 2
    Hey Ray,

    The "cracked manifold" IS a common problem with Civics (regardless of what Honda may tell you). I had the same problem with a 2002 Civic & the estimate was $1200 + tax form Honda Canada to fix the problem. Check out the link for the full story.

    http://www.freewebs.com/hondacanadasucks/
  • mrj_1982mrj_1982 Member Posts: 1
    Ok so the front end(steering wheel included) shake whenever the brakes are applied. The rotors have been replaced, but it stops lilke the rotors are warped. any other ideas on what could give that sensation(its like a pulse)
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    How tough is it to change it. I have not done any work on a car before (know how to check oil and other things) Can change the air filter

    I never changed one, but you will need a special socket with a cut out for the wire, and lot and lots of WD-40 to losen up the rusted up threads. You will be working under the car on jack stands, so be careful not to let it drop on you, as well wear goggles to stop the particles from flying into your eyes.
  • sodabookssodabooks Member Posts: 1
    Noticed articles announcing this fixed price program for older Hondas...more info on UK sites. Does anyone know if USA dealers are doing this yet? Looking for a Houston area dealer for some routine maint/repairs.
  • saari1saari1 Member Posts: 1
    Great that you posted. We were told by our Drive Clean mechanic (separate garage) that we had the crack. That was 4 weeks after our regular service with Honda. When I told the service agent today that we'd been told this by our Drive Clean provider, she: 1 - indicted it was a "loud noise" refusing to list it as "cracked" on the invoice until it was seen by the serviceperson (I insisted she include "cracked" and we've never heard any noise). She insisted it wasn't under warranty as mine had expired (I checked later, it hadn't) and also said it would cost money to have them check it.
    So, they came back and said it was cracked and that it wasn't under warranty. Funny that. I'm waiting now to talk to their manager, so we'll see.
    :( :mad:
  • karma1karma1 Member Posts: 2
    Honda used the same delay tactics with me & really tried to frustrate me ( thinking I would give up & pay for the repair myself). About the warranty, I got conflicting info' from Honda dealerships & from Honda Corporate....dealerships said the problem was covered under warranty until 130,000 Km, & besides, it is a recurring issue even with newer Hondas....Honda Corporate insisted the warranty is up to 60,000 Km & anything that happens after means you are SOL.

    Bottom line is this IS a rampant problem with Honda manifolds, at the very least they should cover half the cost (even though I strongly believe they should cover 100% of the cost).

    http://www.freewebs.com/hondacanadasucks/
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Great that you posted. We were told by our Drive Clean mechanic (separate garage) that we had the crack. That was 4 weeks after our regular service with Honda. When I told the service agent today that we'd been told this by our Drive Clean provider, she: 1 - indicted it was a "loud noise" refusing to list it as "cracked" on the invoice until it was seen by the serviceperson (I insisted she include "cracked" and we've never heard any noise). She insisted it wasn't under warranty as mine had expired (I checked later, it hadn't) and also said it would cost money to have them check it.
    So, they came back and said it was cracked and that it wasn't under warranty. Funny that. I'm waiting now to talk to their manager, so we'll see.


    Emissions warranty is 8 years/80,000 miles.
  • jhiggsjhiggs Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Civic SE. At about 110,000km (65,000 miles) I had my Civic in to the local Honda dealer for regular service. They notified me of a cracked manifold. They promply ordered in the parts and installed a new manifold (including new O2 sensor, etc) for no charge. They told me it was under Honda's 130 000 km emissions system warranty.
  • pdinizpdiniz Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    This just happened to me. Out of the blue the engine light came and got stuck on.
    I figured, if this is a persistent problem then after a reset (done by disconnecting the
    negative battery terminal) it would go away. If it is indeed a recurring problem after
    the reset it wil come back on and then I'll take it to the dealership.

    I did reset and so far it has stayed off. We shall see if indeed the problem persist.

    By the way, a while back there was a similar problem with the SRS light for which I had to reset it with the clip (protected by some tape so that you do not accidently short-circuit anything) and
    so far things have been working fine.

    Hope this helps.

    Pedro
  • mattya802mattya802 Member Posts: 3
    I was just wondering if anyone with a owners manual could let me know the mph suggest shift points, maximum speeds and red line rpm for the car. Thanx alot and any information would be helpful.
  • mishaelmishael Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM!

    have you figured it out yet?

    I have a 99 civic EX... and when it's in neutral, it idles at around 300 sometimes which is WAY too low. And sometimes the car just dies... which is really unsafe when i put my car into neutral before coming to a stop and making turns.

    One of my friends had a similar problem with his 98 integra, and he said he reset this chip somehow with this long process... but I'm not sure how he did it and he doesn't remember. (it's not just pulling out the battery to let it reset or anything) Hopefully you solved this problem already and can help me! thanks!!

    mishael
  • rowaxerowaxe Member Posts: 12
    I have an '85 honda CRX that I'm repairing by bits and pieces. I have a massive body leak that is settling in the passenger side back foot well and a smaller one on the drivers side trunk/hatch area. I have silicone caulked every joint that I can see on the car's exterior trying to arrest the flood. Are there any known problem areas that I should be looking for? I've tried pouring buckets of water on specific areas to find which parts are leaking, but to no avail. it just leaks when it's raining, and right now is the rainy season here so I'm having a grand time of it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  • nkoa30nkoa30 Member Posts: 1
    Thanks Plasdom and blueiedgod for this discussion on here...I just had a quick question for both of you.

    I have a 2002 Honda Civic LX with 107,000 miles on it. The "malfunction" light came on yesterday and so I read the manual about possible problems. Of course, it wasn't a loose gas tank cap. But anyways, I've talked with a few people and they seem to suggest that it's probably the O2 sensor. Today, while driving home from work, I was at a stop sign, upon accelerating the car felt as if it was going to choke and die. Did you experience the same kind of "symptom"? Just thought I'd ask to try to get more information and see if everything leads to the O2 sensor problem. I too am not a big mechanic but with the economy these days, i'd be willing to put in some hours to try and fix it myself. Did you end up doing it yourself Plasdom? Thanks for your time and discussion!
This discussion has been closed.