Honda Civic Care and Maintenance

ruking1 · December 2005

While keeping the car from sagging and better handling are certainly do able, I would be very careful what I do, given you do 4000 per mo and 48,000 miles per year.

The stock suspension system while it does have some drawbacks is really built for durablility and longevity.

Two obvious things that you have not mentioned come to mind.

1. What is the total weight of all that you transport? Next I would see what is the max vehicle load rating (mine is 850#'s). Then the obvious thing is to make sure you are within the parameters or more directly don't exceed it.

2. Upshot: do not overload your car. Is your tire inflation pressure enough to cover the load bearing requirements? So for example on my 2004 Honda Civic VP, the placard states 30 psi. However, I run the Honda's recommended (owners manual) 35 psi or higher speed psi recommendation.

Of next importance; longer wearing tires such as GY Comfort Treads or GY Triple Treads. You might lose .5-2 mpg but the better ride will be the reward.

The next thing that I would do given your situation is to go to (when the struts and shocks actually do leak or really crap out) an adjustable set such as Koni Reds/Blacks.

If you decide to go to a stronger REAR spring rate, then you really need to get softer shocks and NOT stiffer shocks than most rocketeers advocate. The adjustable ones are important for the "goldilocks" touch here. (Koni Yellows)

If side to side handling with the loads you carry are important, I would go no further than rear anti sway bars.

themadhattervp · December 2005

The tires are at 30psi and I am probably at the 700# mark (including myself) for weight. I try to spread the weight out though out the car but I would rather not have spools of wire and tools surrounding me on my 1000 mile commutes, so most of the weight is in the trunk and back seat. I too am concerned about the reliability factor, which is why I am CAREFULLY considering any alterations of the factory suspension. My issue with the sagging (other than the classy appearance) it wether or not keeping the weight in the trunk all the time will be bad for the suspension long term. The sway is a bigger concern. I notice when changing lanes at interstate speeds a time delay from when I turn the wheel and the car actually moves. Then the move seems erratic and over steered (kind of fish tail like). I had to get a feel for it. In a situation where I may have to make a quick move from debris in the road, I could loose control. What do you think?

ruking1 · December 2005

I would go to a min of 35 psi. Since you are at 82% of max capacity, you can not think of your vehicle as an (unweighted) light nimble coupe. So drive accordingly.

imidazol97 · December 2005

The delayed reaction to steering input would worry me. I've had a similar feel when overloading my trunk with loads of mulch for the flower/garden beds. Could be the dangerous difference in an emergency maneuver.

Can you get air struts to be able to maintain the right ride height for the springs and alignment?

jesslyn914 · February 2006

I have to say .... I smell a rat.. and think I was royally misinformed by my dealership... I had my first oil change at 1000 miles (3 months). I brought my brand new 2005 Civic Coupe in for a trunk leak and a leak in the back seat at 1,000 miles(which was found to be coming from a roof seam, no TSB's for it yet)I asked the dealership if I should wait to 3,750 for my first oil chage and told them that would take me another 6 months. They told me to have my first oil change at 3 months on this brand new car, but my first oil change was free. Is this going to harm my car being that now I see Honda manual suggests waiting until 3,750 before getting your first oil change? :confuse:

port_48 · February 2006

Anyone come across this problem yet? Check Engine Light (CEL) stayed on after starting my 2002 Civic DX (sedan, 5spd) with 35K miles the other night. Autozone scan using OBD II found P1607. Service manual says: Engine Control Module (ECM)/Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Internal Circuit Malfunction. Removed #6 fuse (fuse to "brain") for 10 secs, reinstalled, turned ignition key on (position II) for 40 secs as per Service Manual and CEL is still on.

There are no other symptoms, i.e. oil level/pressure is fine, runs fine, coolant level ok, nothing amiss other than the orange/yellow glow of the light.

(1) Does it hurt the car to drive?
(2) Is the brain really bad after only 35K miles?
(3) Any other ideas as to fixes besides replacing the brain?

port_48 · February 2006

Review of Honda Warranty says ECM and PCM are covered 8 years/80,000 miles.

I'm still curious to know if others have come across this DTC.

Thanks.

raspywolf · February 2006

Hi there,
So a few months back I bought a 94 honda civic DX with just over 150k miles on it. I have always done all the regularly scheduled maintanance myself on all of my cars. Normally I run out and grab a couple manuals but the auto stores in the surrounding areas all seem to be sold out and I need to change the oil soon, as in I probably should have done it about 1000 miles ago.
I had all the usual things I need to do the job except I couldn't find the oil filter itself, maybe I'm blind or something. I checked the owners manual and it doesn't say where to find it. Instead it tells me to take it into a shop because I don't have some Honda specific tool. Now, I'm pretty sure I could find a way around this and if not I know I can get my hands on one. But none of that matters until I can find the oil filter.... So my questions are:

1. Does anybody know where the stupid oil filter is on this thing?

and

2. After all this, I've begun to wonder is there any honda specific or civic specific information that I need to know before doing this once I do find it (extra steps, tips, etc.)?

I don't want to have to take this into a shop just to get this done. I know it doesn't cost that much, but I'm a student and I'm honestly cannot afford even that right now.

Plus I'm cheap so I balk at the thought of paying someone else to do stuff that I should be able to do myself without too much of a hassle.

wintertiger · February 2006

I just bot a LX. Some my friends tell me there is no difference between 93 and 87 while some say in the long run, 93 is better choice.

port_48 · February 2006

Honda dealer diagnosed problem as ECM failure (PN 37820-PLM-L04) and replaced as warranty repair. No cost whatsoever to me. Mileage on car ~ 35K miles.

susand1964 · March 2006

I am looking at a '98 Civic sedan. It was whining when I drove it, and asked the dealership to check it out. They tell me it is an Idler Bearing which needs to be replaced. Can anyone tell me if replacing an Idler Bearing is a single task, or does it usually involve replacing other parts at the same time (for the best results). The car only has 65,000 miles on it. Should I have them check anything else out, such as timing belt? Thanks!

accord_guy · March 2006

I am planning to buy a used honda civic (01-02). I need some advise about the car maintenance from the civic owners on the forums

1) At what mileage does the timing belt need to be replaced? (110k?)
2) How much does it cost to replace the timing belt? ( dealers say about $1000)
3) How much do pair brake pads cost? (dealer - $250)
4) how much does the 60k service cost? (dealer - $500)

I interested in your answers based on your experience of owning a Civic.

Thanks

j26m · March 2006

Go to Scantool.net. Very good for diagnostic of ypu check engine light.

godzilla2 · March 2006

I've just purchased a 1986 Honda Civic Wagon. I cannot find the transmission dipstick. It is an automatic transmission. Can anyone tell me where to find it on this car?

ckybo · March 2006

Find a new dealer..timing belt should be around $180, you can get good brake pads from Autozone for $30. If the rotors are good it only takes about 30 minutes to replace the front pads. The 60k service is mostly an inspection. The only thing they really do is replace the brake fluid.

rohan23 · May 2006

Hi,
I want to give my car for 60k service. I am looking for dealers in the Fairfax, VA and Vienna, VA area who do a good job at that. particularly Fairfax honda or Rosenthal Honda. If anyone has any experience dealing with these dealers please reply to this post.

Thanks!
-Rohan.

suehan · May 2006

i've had my car for 8.5 years and it had a big service at 90K about 3 years ago, with replacing timing belts, spark plugs, water pump, etc. etc.

for the past 3 years, i drive only 4-5K per year on average. what kind of maintenance does it need at this time?

the auto shop suggests:
- replace spark plug (again)
- replace ignition wire set (plug wires, expensive!)
- 3-step fuel system cleaning
- throttle body cleaning

which ones are needed and which ones are not?

i noticed the tires rotation was done 9/05, does it need another tire rotation?

thanks so much in advance!

Sue

dpat · May 2006

I dealt with both of them when I was looking to purchase my civic. Both lied extensively to try to get me to buy a car from them. I'd be careful. I haven't dealt with either service department, and don't intend to.

metrods · May 2006

I had my car safety-checked for the DMV at Pep Boys. They left the radiator cap of. The car ran extremely hot for a short moment. After that I ahd a small problem. The car started to swallowed coolant. Make a long story short, Cush Honda told me that I had a cracked block or cracked head. Pep Boys says it's because the car had 180,000 miles. I had no problems before the safety check.

Question: who has a '99 Civic with over 300,000 miles and what major problems did you have? If any?

Thanks folks.

jont77 · June 2006

Hey.. Had my 01 civic LX for a couple months now, its got 63K miles and the "maintenance required" light started flashing when I start it up. The owners manual is gone, so here I am. Im assuming there is a code depending on how many times it blinks? It blinks 10 times then shuts off. Anyone tell me what its tellin me? Thanks!

nj2pa2nc · June 2006

it is time for service.it might just need a oil change.

jont77 · June 2006

I thought its the 60K checkup, Ive heard alot of people talk about that. (what all is included in that, by the way?) Maybe just an oil change, but its been more than 3000 miles... ??? I dunno.

metrods · June 2006

I anybody out there who has a '99 (or thereabouts) Civic with over 300,000 miles? I would like to hear from you.

slowpedaler · June 2006

Do you know if the 60K was done? It sounds like the light came on after you'd had the car for a while which leads me to believe it was reset at 60K, and now it's on again for a simple oil change. If you're not sure, you should do the 60K service. Sorry, I don't know what that entails.

slowpedaler · June 2006

That's all BS. In modern-car terms, the plugs and wires are practically brand new and the fuel system is fine as long as you use decent gas. I'd rotate the tires once a year or so.

temj12 · June 2006

The idler pulley is an easy thing to replace. It does nothing but act as a pulley for the serpentine belt. I would not buy a car if it had a whine. Make sure that solves the problem. If it does, no big deal.

asumachu · June 2006

Hi:

I have a japanese honda civic 98 and would like to know if it needs only coolant or I can also add tap water to the radiator.
thank U
ale

unclenito · July 2006

I just bought a 1998 EX sedan a week ago and a few days later I noticed a high-pitched squeal when the climate control fan is on. The noise is intermittent (needless to say, I didn't notice it when I test drove it), but is occurs with the A/C on or off. It does stop when I turn the fan all the way off, which is why I think it's in the fan (at first I thought it was the cd player, since I first heard it the first time I used it.)
I am a little concerned about it, b/c I used to have a car that made a similar noise with the A/C on, and it turned out to be a bad bearing in the compressor. I was advised not to use it because the bearing could seize and cause an engine belt to fail. Am I taking a similar risk here? How big a deal would it be to fix?

cptesta · July 2006

I lease a 2003 Civic, now with 37K miles. The dealer's service dept. tells me 30K service for $325 is really important, particularly valve and transmission adjustments. I see nothing about this in their manual. Besides oil changes, which I have done religiously, what is really important, or are they just looking for an ignorant sucker to pluck some unneeded bucks from? Would be very grateful for some unbiased advice!

pat · July 2006

Find the maintenance schedule in your manual (sounds like you've already done that). Make sure you are looking at the right schedule based on your specific driving conditions, severe or normal (read the definitions of each - they might surprise you). Don't let them do one other thing than what's listed for your mileage. Trust the manufacturer to know and advise what's best for your car.

Last, but most important, find another service place if the one you are dealing with now is insisting on doing things not in the manual. Even if you manage to override their insistence, can you trust them? I wouldn't. :sick:

temj12 · July 2006

It is common for a service department at a particular dealer to have a schedule that differs from the manufacturer. Mine does. Of course, it is my option to follow one or the other. At 20,000 miles I chose to spend $129.00 for service and the other things that my dealer chooses. At 30,000 miles, I chose to do the things listed in the Honda manual. My dealer had a list of things that went well beyond this. I am sure the better service plan is the dealer's, but I am going to choose between the two. I would not be "put off" by your dealer's recommendations. They are a business and it is in their interest to make money. That is not a bad thing. You just make the judgment as to what you want to follow.

aussieginnie · July 2006

Anyone with the 06 Civic use synthetic oil? We are considering using it, as it is supposed to extend engine life and we are planning on keeping our Civic until it dies. Only thing is with the Maintenance Minder, which I think tells you to change the oil every 5000 miles or so - but synthetic needs changing less often. How do we get around that? Would we void our warranty?

Anyone else using synthetic oil already?

jopadman · August 2006

Has anyone with a 2006 civic waxed their car yet? I'm getting conflicting reports that say on one hand we have to wait 2 months and others that say it's ok to do it right away.

jopadman · August 2006

wondering what everyone is using when they change their oil. I'm going to go synthetic since everyone says it gives better gas mileage and extends engine life. What is a good synthetic oil? How much does it cost if its done at the dealership? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks

truehonest · August 2006

This is a good link.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
http://www.filtermag.com/

I will use mobil1 5-20 true synthetic (not blend):$6, m1-110 (for extension PURPOSES):$11, filtermag: $30 (magnet). I will change oil and oil filter every 8000 miles or 8 months to be safe.

QUESTION:

Is it possible to change tire size like 215/65/15, 205/65/15 or 215/60/16 for honda civic lx 2006?

hangaralf1 · August 2006

coolant doesn't go in straight unless its premixed. there should be about a 50/50 mix of coolant and water. it is best to use distilled water since tap water has too many minerals in it that might over time clog pipes (don't use drano). tap water will do in an emergency.

i am using Royal Purple "synthetic" and i change it at 5000 miles - i know that's expensive, but two things: its not just oil floating around inside the engine after 5k, and, more importantly, its much easier to keep track of. if i was using regular oil, my oil change would be at 3k. oil is alot cheaper than an engine. i don't skimp on oil.

truehonest - are u running 15 or 16's - check tire websites for changing tires or wheels. although why you would want to run 15's on an 06 lx - came with 16's.

jopadman - i have 06 lx - bought in december - waxed it twice already, but that was about 4 mos later. if you don't have to, i wouldn't.(unless you need to get away from the significant other).

everyone... get a service manual - the one the techs use so that you can see exactly what they see, and they can't sell you crap that doesn't need to happen. yeah, its expensive, but it'll save $$$$$ in the long run.

miles6 · September 2006

Has anyone experienced the following problem with 2006 Civic? When it rains, numerous small circular rust colored stains develop on all flat surfaces (i.e. on top of trunk and roof). I have to wash the stained areas immediately after rain or extremely difficult to remove after a day or two. I've owned three other civics and many other cars, but never experienced this problem before. Otherwise, I like the car.

jay_24 · September 2006

Just a guess based on some comments in one of the Subaru boards that talks aboout waxing and washing....

Many cars are shipped by rail and they get a light coating of iron oxide on them from the rails. Some of the Subie guys did some fairly major detailing work to remove this. I think it invloved using a clay bar. I'm not 100% sure.

Most people don't see or feel this oxide from the shipping and never even realize its there. Washing doesn't remove it.

--jay

dewaltdakota · September 2006

That's what I was going to suggest. Thanks to the train trip your car took on its way to your dealership, you have iron dust sitting in the top layer of your paint. When it rains, the water mixes with it, and helps it rust, causing the rust-colored spots. You're good to have noticed it, and are right to want to address it asap.

You'll want to get yourself a clay bar or two (Maguires is good), and go over the entire car, to clean out the paint. Here's a pretty good tutorial on what clay bars are, how they work, and what to do with them.

Your paint will thank you for it!

vquinn · September 2006

I've never had the cv boots replaced. I am the only owner of this car. The dealership says that all four need to be replaced, which would run around $500. I have heard that usually the inner cv boots practically never need to be replaced. What about the axls?

Advice?

dealkk · September 2006

i use to have 4 tire and it running fine.
now i just purchace 4 use tire, put it in the car and the steering wheel turn to the left a little bit when i drive. do i need to do wheel alignment. where is the good place to go to?

mogas · September 2006

Today I noticed that the dash lights and the side headlamps are staying on even when the car is off and the keys are out of the ignition. To remedy the problem temporarily, I have removed the negative battery cable so the battery will not drain. I'm thinking it's a faulty switch, right? If not, please clue me in to what maybe the problem and if so how hard would it be to replace the switch on my own. Any information would be helpful.

hondaman55 · September 2006

I have a 2006 Civic which I purchased in 8/06. I have gone through a brushless car wash twice with wax added. Absolutely no problems.

hondaman55 · September 2006

Is it overkill to change the oil in my 2006 Honda Civic every 3000 miles. I know Honda recommends 5000 miles, but my last Honda lasted 240,000 miles by me changing the oil every 3000 miles ( 1993 Honda Civic ).

jaxs1 · September 2006

I may buy a 2007 Civic LX or EX sedan and drive it for 2 or 3 years at 45,000 miles a year of which over 90% of driving will be highway driving.

If I keep it for the entire 3 years, I would have about 135,000 miles on it when I sell it.

How many service intervals should come up and would it also need any very expensive maintenance service like a timing belt replacement?

sandman46 · October 2006

I just noticed on Friday something rolling around behind the glove box. This only happens on hard turns or over some speed bumps. I've checked everything inside the car & found nothing. Does anyone else here have a similar problem?

The Sandman :confuse:

polymorpha · October 2006

I have 35 K miles on the Dunlop tires that came with my 04 Civic DX and they are worn enough that I will need to replace them before winter. I am surprised because I usually get 50-55K miles on original equipment tires including Dunlops on my 92 Civic. I check inflation frequently and have moderate driving habits. How are others doing on mileage? I would welcome suggestions on good replacements which emphasize durability and gas mileage.

aggie76 · October 2006

Hello all,

Just bought a '98 EX auto coupe with under 120k on it in great condition for 16 yr old son. Did major maintenance of timing belt, water pump, plugs and belts - everything else is great per trusted mechanic. Has brand new battery, new exhaust system up to manifold & almost new tires already.

One issue is key seems to struggle with turning in ignition and in door locks, really have to baby it to get it just pulled out a bit and then turn to unlock, start or remove. Any suggestions on resolving this troublesome issue?

ruking1 · October 2006

First off, off the top of my head, I remember the OEM Dunlops for the 2004 Civic (that I have anyway) are rated 29th of 30 tires in that category !!!

One thing that I did slightly different from the get go was to put in the "high speed PSI" as per owners manual (again in my case- 35 psi) I think I will see (BARELY) 55-60k. As a comparison, I will see 115-125k on a Goodyear LS-H 195 65 15 H tire on a VW Jetta TDI, which is almost universally vilified as not the best OEM tire on that OEM and model. On a 44 psi max tire wall pressure I have run 38 psi fronts/36 psi rears.

While I think the Michelin Hydroedge and Goodyear Triple Treads and GY Comfort Treads are probably real good. I will mount up the Toyo Spectrums. Everything I have read and also my experiences with another Toyo tire has the preliminary indications that these will be good on durability and fuel mileage.

bluewheeler · October 2006

Been looking through the forums and haven't seen anyone yet that's had my particular trouble, so I'll give this a shot...

I'm enjoying my 2006 Civic immensely, and I recently gave it it's first oil change. Unfortunately, the oil life computer doesn't seem to recognize that I've actually changed the oil and filter. When I'm driving the little orange wrench light stays on, and when I start the odometer flashes negative mileage at me (presumably how far I've gone since it thinks I should have changed the oil) until I change the odometer mode.

The filter and oil change HAVE been done, at least 500 miles ago, and the car is running fine. It has plenty of oil and no leakages. Is there some trick to getting the oil computer to *realize* the oil has been changed? Any trick or gimmick I can use to shut off the warning?

It's an annoyance more than anything, but I'm hoping it's not pestering me just so I take it to a dealer and have them shut it off! Thanks for any input.

Honda Civic Care and Maintenance

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