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In the Phoenix and Tucson area, they seem to range from $200-300.
The bad: Stay away from Paragon Honda in Queens. Rt 23 Honda in Pompton NJ is pretty sad. The most incompetent sales ever, but the most beautiful facility. Bay Ridge Honda is a rip off (they do offer $300 for your old sneakers, $1000 for a used MetroCard, or $5000 for trade-in, but I am sure they build it into the price of the car). White Plains Honda in White plains, NY is owned by the same people as Paragon Honda (see above).
Neutral: Have not heard anything bad or good about Staten Island Honda. Bob Ciasully Honda in Jersey City, NJ is OK (not bad, not great). Same for Babylon Honda in Babylon, NY.
The good: D&C in Tenafly, NJ were good to me back in 1999. If you willing to drive a few miles, Fair Honda in Danbury, CT is really good. I have bought parts from their web based parts counter for years ( http://www.fairhondapartsforyou.com ) and bought my last car from them last year. The most pleasant experience with the internet sales group. I have heard good things about Brewster Honda in Brewster, NY, and Mount Kisco Honda in Mount Kisco, NY. Mahwah Honda in Mahwah, NJ has a good reputation as well.
General rule of thumb, the father you go away from NYC proper, the better exprience you will have. But not too far, as they will get cocky. If you have a dealership in mind check with better business beaurau (sp?), or ask on boards like this. Word of mouth is the best advertizement.
If price is your goal, try buying a manual Civic off the lot, you will get a much better deal, as no one is willing to buy them in NYC area. Driving a Civic with a manual in traffic is not bad. Besides, what else do you have to do sitting in traffic anyway. At least this way you get to move extremities and get the blood flowing.
Good luck.
I had the dealer send me an email with all the charges through OTD. I just went through the car buying experience with my mother, who is down in Florida, so I learned alot from that experience. Yes, they all charge their "fees". but they can also work the sales contract backwards.. from the OTD price..
I also know, that once you get to the dealership, prices quoted can then be a whole differnt story, and at that point I will walk..
Stayed tuned for an update as this will probably take place towards the end of May.
Thanks for all the info.. I am actually doing the research for a friend, who is buying the car for business, and therefore would need a manual transmission. So of course price is always an issue, but so is dealing with someone reputable.
I appreciate the headsup on the dealerships you mentioned.. I dont know how far she would be willing to travel to buy the car, but I will definitely check out the ones you mentioned.
Thanks so much.
Gerri
What dealership on Long Island? And I just wanted to double check, your price was WITH side airbags, correct??
Thanks!
Gerri
a 2001 Nissan Altima LX( so extra perks such as power seats etc) with 30,000 miles automatic,still under warranty, 1 private owner from a Toyota Dealership .... good records, clean and going for $10,00
the other a Honda Civic with 80,000 miles (2 owners, the first was a commuter and drove several miles each day), stick shift, new ceramic brakes, car alarm, no warranty....good records and well maintained by both owners( almost immaculate, the last owner works in a dealership) going for $7000.
Well Money talks, but I want a car that gives no trouble for at least 4 years and I am willing to pay the $10,000 for the comfort and the extra warranty, but I do want a good deal.....
Any thoughts....?? Help ASAP!! I am trying to decide in a couple of days...
$10K for a 2001 Altima is a little pricey, I remember that the 2001 Altimas had like a $4000 rebate in 2001, because of the new one coming out. I priced one out back then, and with all the options, sans auto, it was $12,xxx. Nissan does not have as good a resale value as Honda Civic. If money is what drove you to the Civic, offer the Altima people $8K and see what they say. If the warranty is your main concern, the warranty on the Altima is probably not manufacturer's, and most likeley not Toyota, because it is not a used Toyota. Read about aftermarket warranties on this site, they are pretty much worthless.
Good luck
Using Edmunds.com and quotes from 2 other dealers in central PA, I walked off the lot with a lovely Fiji Blue Civic EX Coupe 5M for $15,450 (that's it... no destination fee or any other charges!). They undercut the other 2 dealers by over $200! The sales reps were really low pressure and very helpful. Best car-buying experience I've ever had. Not too mention that they over-valued my trade by $1500. I walked away very satisfied! Thank you APPLE HONDA!
Are you in the tristate area?? What dealership did you get this price from? Did you buy it at this price? What OTD price did you end up paying?
Thanks,
gerri
Sounds like you got a good deal.. Thanks for the name of the dealership. I will definitely get in touch with them, when my friend has her financing in place.
Hope your girlfriend is enjoying the car!
Gerri
I am looking to buy an LX AUTO 4 DR civic in the next couple of days. So far the cheapest offer that I have received is 14450+ttl. Out the door price excluding the registration fee of 2% is 15562$. What would you comment on the deal. Pls reply ASAP so I can expedite my purchase.
Thanx,vj
Kelley Blue Book Value: $6690 (Dealer retail + excellent cond.), $5130 (private party + excellent cond.), and $4655 (private party + good cond.).
NADA: $5450 minus $225 (mileage deduction) = $5225
Edmunds: $6841 (dealer + excellent cond.), $6253 (dealer + good cond.), $5498 (private + excellent cond.), and $5036 (private + good cond.).
So, where should my starting negotiating point be? Do I negotiate from the lowest price I'm willing to pay or from the highest price down? Forgive me if these sound like stupid questions. I know I have to physically look at the vehicle and make any deductions I find. So should I go like "Hmmm... this car is missing OXOXOX, so [highest price I'm willing to pay] - [deduction amount]. The hood has a dent, [new balance] - [additional deductions], etc.
Invoice: $15261
Dealer Cash: $400
No manufacture to customer rebates.
So if what you say is true well then they are well into holdback. I could not get anyone in my area to budge under $14800.
So if your getting a LX Sedan with automatic and air for 14450 jump on it. If your looking at manual your still alittle high.
Bill
Hope this helps,
Warner
Invoice on a 2004 Honda Civic Sedan (Manual)
$14,531
Looks like you paid $14,281 + $419 for this rims. Was $14,700 your out the door price? Or did you have to tack on the doc fee?
Bottom line is before I switched to automatic my girl had it in her mind she wanted manual. The best I could do was $14250. So you did very well. You dipped into $281 of the $400 dealer cash. Not bad at all. I bought a automatic for $14900 plus they threw in free tires for life(identical to the ones on the car at the time of purchase). The best deal I had was 14800. Dealers would not go any lower. They finally said if you can get lower by all means pick it up from the dealer you found the lower price from. So bottom line is they didn't want to dip into holdback whatsoever. Hope you enjoy your ride.
Bill
Warner
Warner
The cost breaks down like this:
Base Civic LX 5-speed $14,281 (incl dest.)
Alloy (EX model) wheels $419
Splash Guards $0
Wheel Locks $0
(The options RETAIL for a total of $833, so I paid about half price for them)
Invoice on this car with destination fee but not including the options is $14,531 so I think I did well.
Other things that I opted for:
After I thought about it, I did opt to pay for the 5 year/100,000 mile Hondacare warranty. The dealer was asking around $1,200 for this but I negotiated it down to $870 for the zero deductible plan. Maybe this was a waste, but I consider it a bit of additional insurance past the 3 year/36,000 mile warranty period. I hope that I don't have to use it, frankly - it won't hurt my feelings if nothing breaks. And since I only put $500 down on the car, I also opted for the gap insurance which I negotiated down to $400; spread over 5 years of payments at 2.9% finanace rate, it works out to about $7 a month. God forbid something should happen (the car gets totalled or stolen) in the first couple of years of ownership, I'd hate to be out a car and STILL have to pay the difference between what I owe and what the insurance company gave me for it. They wanted a lot more for this, but I was very reluctant to purchase this, but after he dropped down to $400 for this, I figured that for SURE if I didn't get it at that price, something WOULD happen. Maybe I'm a nervous freak, but at $7 a month I didn't think I'd kick myself for getting it, and it may even lower my insurance rate on the car (have to check with my insurance company on that). So, that's my story. I did get the 2.9% financing for 60 months so even with all that additional junk that I opted for and only $500 down on the car, my payment is right at $300 a month.
Warner
If I ever need a car, Fair Honda will be the FIRST place I call!
Thanks again everybody!!
Gerri
Warner
Yes. The breadown was base of $16094.00,$1389 tax,$100.00 new tag, $3.00 lemon law, and $175.00 admin fee. I was very pleased with this. And to top it off with them being so nice!!!
Gerri
If you ever need accessories or replacement parts, go to http://www.fairhondapartsforyou.com it is a very good alternative to other internet parts dealers because it is on the east coast. If a part is not listed on the website, call them and they will order it for you. Most of the times, they don't even charge shipping as it comes out of the distribution warehouse, and instead of being shipped to them and then to you, they ship it to you directly. I have nothing against the sponsor HandA but it takes a week or more to get parts from Cali to CT.
Thanks again!
Gerri
Gerri
Also, I have been scrimping and saving for a long time now, and have enough to pay it all off in cash right now. My college friends say this is enough leverage to get about $1500 below invoice. Any guidance as to whether my cash can make that good a deal?
They also say that I should bargain for total price, not a quote before dealer fees. I think this makes sense. What do you guys think?
Also, what is out the door price? Does that mean including all dealer fees, but before taxes? And is it the same as drive out price?
Thanks SO much for any help. This is such a confusing time for me, and every1 here just seems so nice and knowledgeable, I thought it would be a good place to ask Q's.
The deal you are able to get could also depend on which model you are looking at. The LX is the volume seller so you should be able to negotiate a better deal on an LX vs. the EX.
It's great that you have enough cash to pay for the car in full but have you considered taking advantage of Honda's special interest rates? It could help establish your credit and depending on what rate your bank has you may be able to earn more interest on your money.
The out the door price should include everything. Taxes, title, doc fees, and any accessories you want added. It is the same as the drive out price.
Final "out the door" price (excluding taxes and license) was $13,104.50.
After taxes of $824.27 and plate fees of $150 the total cost to me was $14,078.77
I used Edmunds website to request quotations from local Honda dealers and Courtesy Honda in Sanford Florida was the dealership that I finally bought the car from. I dealt with one of Courtesy's Internet Sales managers.
The whole process was completely painless. I followed Edmunds advice, requesting that the dealerships fax me all of their pricing details. Courtesy were the only dealership willing to provide all of the information requested.
One final note, I began my internet search on Thursday evening May 20th, and I drove home in my new Civic on Saturday afternoon May 22nd.
If you have $15,000 cash, see what rates you can get on CD's or bonds. ING offers high yield savings at 2.00% APR with no commitment. You can take the money out anytime, they will give you some cash for being reffered by existing customer (PM if interested). Honda currently offers 2.9% APR, and if you have no credit history, you should try to get in on this. With a 50% down you should get 2.9% APR with no problem, and if you are graduating within the next 12 months, you qualify for the lowest promotional APR as per Honda's college graduate program, as long as you don't have negative credit history. I got in on that when I graduated, with no credit history.
Put the other 50% into a high yeld savings/bonds/CD's and watch your money grow.
2004 Civic EX Auto, Eternal Blue
Price quoted: 15694, included destination charge
Total out the door: 17074, TTL
Very happy with the deal, and the people who worked there -- I only dealt with one person, and she took care of everything, never saw or spoke to anyone else.
As I'm pricing various models it seems that the dealer prices are way above Edmunds/NADA. I certainly expect a certain amount of inflation but as an example, one '99 LX I looked at was $77-7800 and the dealer is asking $9990. Another was an '01 LX that should list for around $10,500 and the dealer is asking $13,500.
Are these ridiculous prices being driven by demand for high mileage vehicles perhaps? Or is this fairly standard for used Civics?
Thanks
The Mazda has bad resale value and may not age as well as a honda.
Buy the Honda. It has great resale value and time proven reliability.
Sell your Suburu on your own.
The first dealer to accept an offer of $1000 under invoice you should buy from. Why are you waiting two months? Interest rates are probably going up and you can get 2.9% now.
Our family just bought two civics in April and both were $1000 under invoice. Dont buy the extras.
It isnt necessary to make this a lingering research project.