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Comments
Almost a done deal--but would want to hear from you all,folks.
Tax @ Michigan is 6%
Adding 'dimming mirror w/compass'-->411/- (parts($311) + labor ($100))
TOTAL OTD: - 18700/-
What do you guys think?Fair deal?
OR please suggest a fair price for the above?
Some guys have got it for OTD 16900:))...No such lcuk here,folks!
Please share your inputs/experiences.
Thanks much!
TC
Same problem here in Florida. Is the dealer charging you any sort of dealer "fee"? It is $600 here. I am in the market for the same car except with a manual tranny. Your OTD price of $18,700 equates out to about $17,900 for the MT version. That is almost $1,000 LESS than what I was quoted on the LX sedan MT here. Yes, your price is not even close to those in the DC area and I don't know why, except they seem to pay little to no dealer fees and their sales tax is in the neighborhood of only 3%.
Good luck ...
Thanks for the quick input.It helps to know that i am not being taken for a ride.Yeah..i'll play the dealers against each other.I'll try to see if i can get between 18400/- and 18600/-.Dealers are smart..they dont give you in writing the haggled price quote..all they say is they can prolly cut down a couple of hundred more if i come back.So,the price is still arnd 19000/- on paper:-).Wonder how much lower they are willing to bend?How abt 18000/-...am going to gun for that figure....:))worst case,they might show me the door....:))So what....they'd lose a good sale..thats all!!
Dud,
Dunno abt dealer fee etc.I am a true dud when it comes to all the other fees.I give'em what add ons i am interested in and ask them to give me an OTD.Thanks to this forum---have been able to make this process easy.Lets see how it goes.I will be buying a car by this w/end.Will let ya all know the real deal by then.Good luc to you too.Thanks for your time.
Rest all,
Do key in your valuable inputs--suggestions--ideas to get a 'steal deal' like some of the others have.
Way to go,ppl!
TC
Car Price: 16747
Tax = 1117.29 NJ@7% of 16747
Doc fee: 45
New Registration + tire fee etc = 250
OTD Total = 18,214.29
If the $16,747 includes the $595 dest charge then you actually paid $16,152 for the car ... or about $60 less than the invoice. Remember, the car did not cost the dealership that much. Dealer holdback is 3% (or about $485) and there may be a factory-to-dealer incentive in-place to incentivise the dealer to sell more (ex: sell 100 cars during the month and get a $20,000 bonus from Honda).
Theoretically, it is possible to get the car for less than you paid (subtract holdback and that incentive (if you knew it)) but getting a Civic for less than invoice is a good thing. Congrats ...
On the other hand I still cannot believe that here in Florida the dealers all seem to charge the same $600 "dealer fee" while no other areas of country seem to do it. This is pure profit to the dealer and makes me sick.
Gosh, sacura's deal was very nice.
Sorry but I was not clear in my last post. Do NOT confuse the destination charge (non-negotiable and a fair fee) with "dealer fees". Here in Florida the dealers are charging BOTH. The $600 (as was explained to me by the dealer) was a fee that was "divided" among all of the departments to cover "expenses". This is obviously pure profit ... and I told them that I would only pay it if they reduced the price of the vehicle by $600.
I will be buying a Civic by the end of the month. I have done so much research that my brain hurts. if you rearch the NET there are conflicting strategies to buying a new car. One site recommends actually walking into the dealership with a spreadsheet filled out with the MSRP, invoice, etc. and recommends low-balling them ... with the ultimate goal of meeting in the middle (near your target cost). Another method recommends a mass fax-attack to ALL dealerships in your area (I don't owna fax machine). Still, another recommends requesting quotes and then calling the lowest bid.
What method is most prevalent here?
w Nav.....$19,954
w/o Nav.....$18,349
What are your thoughts on this deal? I am in the Chicagoland area.
Thanks, Phil
You failed to mention a very important fact ... manual or automatic transmission? I'll assume (since about 90% of Civics are AT) that you are looking at an AT.
The invoice (excluding the $595 dest charge) for the car with NAV is $19,560 ($17,955 w/o NAV). Your dealer quote is about $400 over invoice. This is not too bad. You might want to consider trying to get them down to invoice since they still have 3% (or about $638) in holdback to work with. If they sold you this car at your quote, they would be making about $1,000 in profit.
If you really want the EX consider NOT getting the NAV system (it adds $1,600 to the cost of the car).
I wish I had more advice but I too am getting ready to negotiate a deal ...
You said:
"I received a quote for a 2007 Honda Civic Coupe EX including the $500 destination charge:
w/o Nav.....$18,349"
The invoice (including dest of $595) on that car is $18550. Your quote indicates that you are getting it for LESS THAN INVOICE (a very good thing). If this is indeed true (make sure ... get a firm commitment from the dealer) then I wuold jump on it. The dealer is not losing money so don't feel bad for him. He is either taking the extra $200 out of his holdback or there is some secret factory-to-dealer incentive to sell xxx number of cars ... and he is trying to get there by selling cheap.
You might want to give MORE information like LX Coupe, automatic or MT and your ZIP code.
BTW what is a "propack"? I'm getting ready to buy and have never heard of it.
Invoice on that car is $16,761 (incl dest) while MSRP is $18,155.
Try to get the dealer to go as close to ... or even lower than invoice (they will be getting about $530 in holdback from Honda. Add your approx tax, tag, and title and try to avoid those hideous "dealer fees".
15,000 miles/year:
36 month - residual 58% of MSRP - .0030 MF
I was totally shocked, because I had these numbers:
15,000 miles/year:
24 month - residual 70% of MSRP - .00155 base rate
36 month - residual 62% of MSRP - .00155 base rate
He confirmed that those were Honda Financial numbers and that the numbers I had were no longer valid and that Honda changed them every 15 days and that special was now gone.
Is this true or is this guy just not honest?
I find it hard to believe that the numbers can change so drastically, so quickly... specially now at the end of the 07 run.
You can ask the dealer to fix it an he will ... for a huge fee. Once you sign the contract and drive the car off the lot it is yours ... and not theirs. IMHO if you ask the dealer to fix it (for free) they will look at you funny and perhaps laugh.
Good luck ...
They do financing through Mid Atlantic Federal Credit Union and will go as low as 5.5% APR if you have a credit score over 750. I know there's probably some people that got better deals, but I was under a bit of a time crunch AND this is the first new car I've ever bought so I am very satisfied with what I got.
OUTSTANDING job! You got a great deal on that car. I am buying the same model (except sedan) this weekend and have been quoted $2,000 more than you here in Florida. I am so glad that you posted both the dealership name AND location. My son lives in Rockville AND it might just be time to save a few thousand on a car by flying up (one-way) and grabbing one and driving it home.
BTW could you break down your deal for me including base price, taxes and fees? Thank you ...
When I purchased my 2007 EX/AT sedan back in March, Honda had 2.9% for 24 months, 3.9% for 48 months, and 4.9% for 60 months. But, all those deals ended a short while ago. It doesn't look like Honda has any incentives at all on civics right now, nor on the Accord.
You can also check incentives at www.honda.com - again though, none listed for the civic.
tell them u only want it for 18,000
--What would be a fair price (OTD) to pay for a 2007 Honda Civic Sedan LX-AT in Akron, Ohio?
---OR?---
--are any of you from the akron? have you recently purchased a 2007 Honda Civic Sedan LX-AT in Akron, Ohio? How much did you pay for it?
Thank you so much!
I am in Columbus, OHIO. The price given to me at this point is
$17180 + $250 (doc) + 6.75% Tax + $25.50.
The OTD price is 18,632.03.
Should I buy it?
It would be nearly impossible to estimate an OTD price with the little information that you provided. You would need to know your tax rate, cost of tag & title (in Ohio), etc.
The published invoice price of the LX-AT Sedan is $16,944. Dealer holdback is approximately $533. Therefore the true invoice is approx. $16,411. Factory-to-dealer incentives are unknown.
Recommend that you start at $16,944, add your sales tax and fees and there is a good place to start. When done, consider how much profit you want to give the dealer. Dealer profit is estimated as amount paid over invoice + dealer holdback + any "dealer" fees.
In that sense, you think that the price I quoted is a little high then.
I looked at your posted message saying that you were considering buying the car in Rockville and drive back to Central Florida. I am wondering whether you have done so.
If you did so, I am wondering whether that will add addition cost to you car. Do you need to change the title again? registration? in CF.
From the posted message, a lot of them get pretty good deal s in Maryland/VA/DC area. If there is no additional cost to bring the car back to Ohio. I think it could be a option for my case.
Thanks...
I read your post earlier today and was typing a response but the numbers that I was coming up with made no sense to me. You said:
"I am in Columbus, OHIO. The price given to me at this point is
$17180 + $250 (doc) + 6.75% Tax + $25.50.
The OTD price is 18,632.03.
Should I buy it?"
The published invoice on that car is $16,944 including a $595 dest. charge. That means that the dealer is charging you about $240 over invoice.
Let's look at your deal from a dealer's profit perspective:
Dealer profit = $$$ over invoice + dealer holdback + ripoff dealer fees
Therefore profit = $240 + $533 + $0 ripoff fees (hopefully)
or about $773 or about 4.5% of the true invoice on the car.
I am no expert but in the absence of ripoff dealer fees (like $600 in Florida) I would try to get them down to invoice, at least. Other than that it seems OK to me.
You might want to request quotes from a large number of dealers in your area and try to buy before the end-of-the-month. You might be surprised.
original list price: $16760
freight: $595
dealer fee: $100
discount: $1640.71
Price of Car with discount: $15817
plus 5% sales tax = $16605
when you add $195 for DMV fee and title, it comes to $16800.
Good car hunting!
It makes no sense to me either when all of you guys are getting something below invoice price but I couldn't. That's why I am asking you whether I should buy it in another state.
Yes, the offer is 17180 and it is 236 over the invoice. The document fee is your ripoff dealer fee (in Ohio it is legal to charge up to $250 max). So, the profit for them is
Profit for them = $235 (over invoice)+ $533(from dud)+ $250 (ripoff)= $1018.
The dealer said that if I hold the car today which required $100, they will reduce the document fee to $150.
So, the total of the car OTD price if I hold today will be (17180+150)*1.0675 + 25.5 (title) = $18525.275
I have try to ask other dealer to match his price or offer something better. But, no dealers (four of them) willing to do so. I am wondering whether the method that I used for bargaining is wrong.
No, I would not buy that car because you are obviously NOT happy with the deal. I'll tell you that if you went out-of-state (like Maryland) you might save yourself $500-$800 or so. You have to ask yourself if it is worth it.
I requested quotes from a number of dealers in my area and found the price differences varied by up to $800. The lowest priced dealership is almost 100 miles away and most of the dealerships in town are either clueless, didn't bother to respond to my request for a quote or their prices are WAY too high.
So be it ...
Good luck.
There are no special "college grad financing" programs available for the Civic. If you are a AAA member, they are offering 5.99% financing right now in the Boston area.
You should be able to get the LX for invoice or maybe a little less. You will probably find the manual transmission models in short supply, however.
In my recent shopping north of Boston, I found Honda Barn in North Reading and Commonwealth in Lawrence to be very up front with their pricing. I would avoid Atamian in Tewksbury.
My lowest quote so far is $16,359 + $595 transportation fees that he won't/can't waive + 5% tax ($847) + $195 licensing fee for an OTD total of $17,996.
How am I doing?
Also, they say they don't have access to the color I want (black). Any ideas?
Thanks!
Can you please let me know the dealership location?
Thanks,
17996 - MD registration is around approx. $800 more (16850 for VA - Registration - 3% tax) than what I got from Jim Coleman Honda in MD and also was getting the same from some other dealers in the area . Try contacting Han Aydinel at Jim Coleman Honda and ask him to beat the price (you can mention my name if you want ask him to give you same deal) and also try Koons Honda - Manassas - internet dept. and ask them to beat the price. I think you can probably negotiate better price than what you have currently , possibly around 17500 or little less.
-Garry