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In my neck of the woods, and typically in small towns, where there is just one dealer without any competition, you find similar situations. Most Honda dealers (not all though) know that they have a superior product so, if you get a run around, just ignore it, walk away and deal with another dealer. Sometimes it's worth to drive a few miles and find someone else.
In future, when you negotiate a price over the internet ALWAYS get a VIN number of the vehicle that you are trying to buy. Most large dealers have VIN number listed on their websites along with all options that are installed.
There are publications out there that show you the volume of sales of each particular dealer. From my experience, if you buy from a large volume dealer, you always get a better price. Few years back, when I was in a market for Chevy Suburban, I found the top 2 US dealer, one in Houston and one in Phoenix.
I negotiated the price from both (over the internet) bought a one way airline ticket to Phoenix (Mesa) and bought the absolutely bottom priced Suburban for a price that nobody could match in So. California.
I live in NJ... (hate it) what's the price are you guys getting from dealers? they are listing them at $21-$22K... you guys think I can get them for like $18K? then I have to add the tax and crap... thanks!
Personally, I don't think you will be able to reach that goal!
I was also considering VW Jetta SE 2010 but the two sale managers that were dealing with me and a finance manager of Volkswagen of Lewisville (Lewisville, TX) were acting the same way as jogousa described in her post #9294. So I decided that I will never buy a Volkswagen car if I need a German auto but rather spend a bit more and buy used 2-3 years BMW or Mercedes.
They are AWFUL (tricky, not-honest and rude) in VOLKSWAGEN OF LEWISVILLE. Please be aware! Never buy from Volkswagen of Lewisville!
Assuming you are looking for a 4 door automatic, LX price should be around 17,000 while EX around 18,500. Looking at your quotes the LX for 17,200 is pretty good deal but you could knock off another 200 if you have the patience sitting at the dealership and wait out the ...."I have to check with the sales manager...." routine dance.
Edmunds.com is a good source to compare both (click on comparison and enter models that you are comparing). Unfortunately Honda has so many different models and therefore you must compare apples with apples. Ideally, you should get an exact printout from the dealer (with all the options) on both cars, go home, research the data on Edmunds.com and come back as an educated car shopper. Good luck with that because most dealers do not like that kind of shopper in their showrooms.
Or better yet, deal with this issue over the internet (emails) with internet sales manager. He/she can give you specific VIN number (and color) of both vehicles that you are interested and you can compare both in the comfort of your home on Edmunds.com. Come back and shoot for the "invoice" price (not MSRP) and don't be shy to demand 100 or 150 over the invoice only! Remember every dealer has 3 profit centers: sales person, sales manager and F&I (finance and insurance) person. The last one will attempt to sell you stuff that you don't really need (like undercoating, extended warranty, etc).
If you have a trade in, don't mention it while negotiating the price. Bring it up at the end. Be prepared to take a "bath" on trade-in (typically appx 2000 below low blue book). It's better to unload your used vehicle on your own.
I am going to the dealer tomorrow to find out if anything is wrong, as I have some other problems with either the engine or the brakes. I think it's just a matter of Honda doesn't make them as good as they used to -- something that's true of most things in this world.
For automatic, that mileage isn't that "terrible" at all.
If you have a manual transmission, you have to adjust your driving habits to get the best MPG.
Other factors that affect MPG involve tires that you have (inflation and thread design), gasoline type (brand) and weight of your vehicle.
We are going through a short sale right now with our house back in FL (now live in Memphis, TN), so I know that is hurting our credit right now, but we have been approved for a loan already from Honda through Capital One but with a pretty high interest rate, thinking of putting more of a down payment down to get it lowered, but I was hoping some of you here could help us out and give us an idea of what you think a good selling price would be for the 2010 Civic Coupe EX-L (automatic) with navigation? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
in central NJ from Hamilton Honda:
$16,225 for car new.
$249 dealer document fee
7% state tax on car cost only
NJ state billed cost for license and registration
No other costs or fees.
Price was for cash purchase, Wanted $800-$1,000 more if
Honda financed at very low rate for 3-5 years.
New dealership that has been opened for less that 6 months
Then price it on Edmund's website punching your zip code. See what the "invoice" value is and "what others are paying"....
Good price (generally speaking) would be around $ 19,000 +/- 500 plus taxes and fees.
Vehicle Price: $19,115.00
Appearance Protection Package: +$299.00
Honda Protection Package: +$764.00
Preferred Customer Discount: -$3,309.00
Selling Price: $16,869.00
2010 Civic LX 4 door.
$17500 + $349 (doc fee) + $15 (Title Fee) + 7% Tax (I live in Indiana).
They found me 1.79% for 48 months Thru a Bank, Not Honda Finanical Services. I'm new to the country and Honda declined me b/c i don't have a long credit history.
I also got the extra warranty for $799.00 ( 7 years / 70,000 miles) I think it's crap, but i got suckered at the last min. Also, it's part of the loan, so I did not care that much.
Any thoughts?
-RM.
The list is $18,900. At list price, Civics are overpriced. I could have bought a 2010 Kia Forte EX 5M with sunroof/alloy wheels for $15,500 w/o any Kia Financing. I chose the Civic since it will have a better resale value.
No light in glove box, no backlight in power window switches (except driver), no outside temp readout, no hood/trunk insulation, no XM radio ....all std. in a Forte are disappointing.
The insurance premium on this car is higher than in our 2004 RX330 or 2001 Mercedes E430. This might be common in all small cars. Check/compare premiums before buying a Civic. Over 5-7 years of ownership, you might be better off with an Accord.
Joe
Since I intensively read and used the information provided I think it is only fair to share my 2 cents and my price.
Process:
1. I requested an Itemized OTD (Out-of-The-Door =drive out price) quote from all Honda dealers in the area (50 miles radius), except the closest one. About 8 in Cleveland area.
2. When they sent "c.ap" I had a short message ending "Thank you, I can not engage if you do not provide an itemized OTD".
3. I've got a few quote and one was aggressive enough with good price.
4. Sent the best quote to the other dealers if they can beat it.
5. Answers received:
a). Some were honest saying no, I can not do better, you better take it.
b). Some said they can do 50$ better.
c). Some said they can't do it but if I provide them the email, they will "match anything".
d). "Our price is..number plus doc and titles". Ask for specifics Itemized OTD, if not provided, I discarded.
6. I've printed the best quote (without the 50$, not the b)) and went to the closest one with a message on a paper and left it to General Sales Manager. He wanted me to ...wait and "we can do this" and my answer was: "Call me if you can beat it.". He never called. It is a mouse and cat game sometimes I guess :-).
7. I went with the first good offer that others can only beat by 50$. I figured I have to honor the honest people. I kept the other on the list just in case.
Decoding of the answers number 5:
-Getting quite a few a) and one or two b) type answers means you reached the best price in the area.
-The d) are the bottom feeders, my advise stay away. As persons they may be nice but the company is all that you can imagine bad in a dealer practices. They do not engage, and I bet the other dealers does not like them either :-).
-I used the b) as backup.
I stayed away of people that say "we already provided a quote" and they did not do an Itemized OTD. Especially, when they do it if you corner them, they have the price provided by a picture in the email that needs to be uploaded in the message. That allows the offer/picture to change. And you realize their offer is not even competitive.
There were 2 dealers that provided their best price at the beginning.
I went to the dealer pre-approved from my Credit Union and had some down-payment too. The price I negotiated were 2 fold: either Cash price or using Honda special financing price. Soon became obvious that the cash price is the best even if you factor in the interest for the credit union.
I used excel PMT function to do the calculations on the payment, put in a cell:
=PMT(rate/12,12*numberYears,sumToFinance,0,0)
Get the cost of the the loan by previousValue*noPayments-sumToFinance.
Long story short, nice charts can be built with comparative offers.
My final price was:
Car Price 16073
Docs 250
Title 33.5
County Tax OH (7.75%) price+docs 1265.0325
total OTD 17621.5325
Down payment 3114.04
Financed 3 years rate 3.49 14507.4925
Total interest to be paid $793.00
Total Price after 3 years 18301.28
My credit Union was 4% but I would have had to go get the check another day.They "beat it", but the point was I "saved" a trip and 118$ interest over 3 years. I would definitely advise to have a credit union pre-approval under the belt.
Well, the only way to "save" money is actually not to buy, or it is just me :-).
In conclusion my wife drove her car home, I drove in front in my Civic 2003 Sedan that still runs like a swiss clock after 6 years and 130,000 miles. I figured she will enjoy her Honda as much as I did mine and ...continue to enjoy.
Good luck.
P.S. My dealer that I rate ***** was Classic Honda for people in the Cleveland area. I would recommend only to friends :-). Very good and professional. They are just not used to people that actually read what they sign. They call them "readers". I know is pejoratively said but still I like to be called "reader". :-).
Some mentioned here awhile ago that you have a few days to cancel the extra warranty if you wish. Check into that. I think it is true.
That will not lower your monthly payment but would shorten your time by that amount.
Also, some time ago you could buy the warranty for less on the internet, still honda warranty. I do not know if it is still available.
Congratulations.
LX: $15,395 + $710 dest + 7% tax + MV fees + $199 dealer doc fee
LX-S: $16,256 + $710 dest + 7% tax + MV fees + $249 dealer doc fee
Possible to get better or anyone in North NJ been able to get better recently?
Still considering if LX-S is worth the extra money.
I purchased a LX sedan in Oklahoma this evening for the following:
MSRP: 19,115
Price paid: 16,166 + 99.00 doc fee
I am pretty satisfied with price and buying experience.
Anybody have anything good or bad about buying across state lines?
- L
The Sandman :sick: :shades:
2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)
Other dealers are coming in with a few suprises....
$17785.00 + Doc: $199.00 + Title: $89 + Tax: $909.04 = 18980.04 OTD.
(from a WI dealer - so OTD means what you would normally think).
Thats $1,373 below Edmunds TMV and $1578 below Edmunds Invoice - looking good to me. That's first email request for quote. Nice.
- L
First off, thanks for all the useful information this forum provides.
We finalized on the following deal:
Maryland
$14690 (Invoice) + $710 (Dest.) + $100 (Processing) = 15500
Plus: 6% (Tax) + Tags/Title
No Add On's, No Service Incentives and no Low APR (invoice was going up for the special APR).
Most of the invoice pricing on the internet and a little discussion at the dealership.
Regards,
L
Get the following quote from dealer in north CA:
Selling price: 16,191
License fee: 258
CA tire fee 8.75
DMV ET: 29
Doc fee: 55
9.25% tax
OTD: 18,045
APR: 3.9%@ 36month
Is this price reasonable? Thanks
Dealer X's original offer was 16800 + dest, 98 doc fee, 237 MD tags, plus tax (yes, this is for an automatic)
Dealer Y's original offer was 17888 + dest, 99 doc fee, 237 MD tags, plus tax, this price INCLUDES wheel locks and mud guards. Plus their "extra mile plan" for free (includes lifetime $9.95 oil changes, free car washes for life - unlimited, free towing, free inspections, and more).
I sent X's emailed quote to Y. Here is Dealer Y's response (in bold):
If I offer you $16800 plus all of the fees they are charging you you would come here instead of there?
Their price breaks down like this: $16800 + $710 = NET Sale Price with Destination.
$17510 + $348 (Wheel Locks and Mud Guards which they WILL charge you if not more)
$17858 + $99 (Processing Fee)
$17957 + $1077 (Tax) + 237 (2 year MD Tags) =
19271 ON the Road.
This is the best I can do and it would leave this deal at a negative profit.
What are your thoughts on this? Am I getting a good deal. Thanks so much for the help. When I leased my current car (Civic) this forum helped tremendously!
2010 Civic Sedan EX with Navigation MSRP 22,965 + mud guards 249 already installed.
TMZ price w/o mud guards 20,551
My price 20441.00 + Tax + 231.50 title fees = OTD price 22512.19
Honda of Slidell, LA
What do we think?