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Honda Civic Accessories and Modifications
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Comments
Does anyone have any experience in importing cars from Europe and riding them in the US?
What regulations/costs are involved (shipping costs, tax, are emission devices needed on say a Civic Type R, Focus RS)?
Who do you contact (auto maker directly , a dealer in the US or Europe)?
Thanks
I would like to hear from you.
I installed the kit over the weekend but, while the switch lights up, the fog lights don't. I obviously could use some help...
Thanks.
http://www.motorex.net/motorex.html
I haven't logged in under that name in a while now. Ever since I lost my password, and could not remember what e-mail I signed up under.
Blueiedgod=dudka
Lx does not have VTEC while EX and Si does. This is probably the main difference. The problem may not only be limited to having the headers not hook up to the existing exhaust system, but the bolt patterns on the LX head may be different from EX (VTEC) head. And this is where incompatability comes from.
Just like Ncampbell said OEM Ex exhaust is expensive, you might as well change the whole system if you are willing to spend $800 on OEM.
You have to make sure that the bolt patterns on the lx head are comparable to ex head if you are going to be buying aftermarket exhaust.
I think the biggest bang for the buck is nitrous system, though.
Thank you.
Thank you.
I have installed OEM Honda Security system in my 99 Civic. It was a piece of cake, it just plugs in, and you have to add some fuzes. The location required you to assume very uncomfortable positions to install it. Besides a few scraped knuckes it was easy.
Haven't bothered with the 2002, since it came with immobilizer and chip in the key.
I highly doubt that you have OEM sub in the del sol, since I was not aware of Honda offering a 12 inch sub package in 1993. The the question becomes very specific to your set up. Like Ncampbell said, it could be the amp, the sub, the wiring, the way it is hooked up.
You didn't give enough details to just guess what it wrong with the set up.
Is the sub hooked up to the stereo's sub output, or just rear speakers? Is it connected to the speaker level inputs or "line in" inputs? Does your stereo offer sub out put settings that can be adjusted? What cut off frequency is used on the crossover for the sub? Is there a cross over, or just simple inline filter?
The possibilities are endless.
It is like me saying: "I have this grocery bag in the trunk, it has been there for a while and sometimes it makes noise, and it stinks to high heaven. What is the probelm?"
No one but me knows what is in the bag, and how it got there, so no one can give me a constructive answer, except to take the bag out and see what's in it, ot just toss it.
The dealer gave me the wheel lock kit and I believe its the "hub cap" type if I compare it to the photo given on the HandA website but when I check the back of the package, it says "WHEEL LOCK, EXPOSED" P/N 08181-SF0A2AH
I have not yet installed them yet.
I have an EX, so I have no hub caps. Can I still install those wheel locks the dealer gave me or do I specifically need the one made for alloy wheels? Are they still compatable with each other? Im confused.
Thanks
Thanks
Civic is modifier's dream because of the large aftermarket support. There are seats from a number of suppliers that will fit, search and thy shall find. Most of the replacements are racign seats. But other Honda seats will fit as well. Acura Integra/RSX's parts are a direct bolt on for the most part. CRV/Element seats may fit as well , as long as the rails are modfied for height. Accord seats should fit with some fitment.
The most coveted Honda Civic Si seats are a direct bolt on. But they are not for the overweight people, as they are molded into a rigid bucket that holds the driver in place. They are Alacantra (sp) (faux suede), which in my opinon is much better than leather.
Norio
http://www.fairhondapartsforyou.com
HandA takes a week to ship to East coast, Fair honda is next day to most of the northeast.
I think http://www.hparts.com is out of business, as the website no longer works
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/ is also good, but I have not dealt with them personally.
If the LX, I'd keep the steel wheels but remove the wheel covers, and put on 205/50-15 Falken Azenis tires, saving the 195s as spares for the sedan. Also would put a K&N air filter and catback pipe with just one muffler. (Actually, I bought such an exhaust system for the sedan but went too far and it was so loud as to be physically painful, so I removed it. Would use it including the chrome tip but with a less aggressive muffler.)
I live near great mountain roads and with autocross experience have learned that a lot of fun can be had with light weight, good suspension and tires - even without a lot of horsepower.
All thoughts, suggestions, and ideas would be appreciated.
Has anyone installed a set of these?
link title
Are they of decent quality, fit, and etc.?
Or should I just go ahead and spend the extra 100 or so and get the genuine Honda items? I appreciate any information. For a 05 civic coupe by the way. Was not sure how to put a title on the link, sorry first post
Thanks, Scott
Thanks
AS FOR THE SHIFTER,BBK MAKES THE BEST MOST RELIABLE SHORT SHIFTER(200.00-259.99)COMPUTER AND CHIP(200-300.00)
P.S.AS FOR FUEL RAILS AND INJECTORS DON'T WORRY.UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TURBO OR RUNNING ABOUT 300HP THEY WONT HELP.
Tires I know - Falken Azenis 205-50/15 for $68. I'll save the tires that come on the car for my wife's '04 EX sedan.
Or, is the Si justified?
Get a Hasport (I think) kit and you will be all set. The B18 will fit in place of the B16 with no or little problems.
To the guy thinking of installing F20 in the Civic -- Good luck LEt us know how it goes. First of all, F20 block is longer. Secondly, to take advantage of the high RPM power what tranny are you planning on using? If you really want to do the swap, you woul have to convert your Civic to RWD with the complete Engine, tranny, drivetrain, ECU components. At that price you are better off buying a used S2000.
I do not know if you have tested for this but you have probably also lost braking capability; as reflected in it takes longer and more feet to stop (usually app 10 ft more). You are probably experiencing lower MPG. and slower 0-60 times and speeds. If you lower the vehicle, it will further degrade the ride quality.
So if you decide to keep the wheel and tire combination, most likely the stock set up while you can run it, is not designed for the higher weights, suspension travel and geometry change. So the next best thing is the spring and shock combination. However while solving the suspension performance combination, your ride quality will suffer even more in that most aftermarket springs and shocks are designed with LESS suspension travel in mind.
So if it were me, I would get the best tire using the oem size wheel, keep the stock springs, struts and shocks. When needed, swap out the stock struts and shocks with an adjustable "like"( there is a plethora of aftermarket products available) Koni Yellows (550-650 dollars) or Koni Reds (400-450)
You would have to identify the sidemarker or dash lights fuse in the fuse box, get "add a Circuit" from auto parts store. This will give you another fuse and a lead to connect the positive lead from the gauges. Connect the negative to the chassis. This way when you turn on your sidemarkers or the headlights, the gauges will come on.