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Ford Explorer Mercury Mountaineer 2005 and earlier

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Comments

  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    there are differences. "4w-auto" is also referred to as "all-wheel drive", in which the drive is biased to the rear wheels until something slips. then (with the limited slip axle in back) the transfer case has extra power availiable, and the front drive shaft starts turning. the front half-shafts are on a limited-slip drive as well, and they pull as needed. I think the percentages are 35/65 front/rear. that ended in 2001 production.

    the 2002 and on AWD is similar indeed... except that ford added the lockup option. if you flip the switch from "auto" to "4wd", you lock up the differentials and all wheels pull all the time, with a similar front/rear power ratio. if you flip it to "4wd low", you drop the transfer case into "mud mode", and probably also lock the electronic transmission in low gear, for as close as they come to 25/25/25/25 percent pull. I do not know if ford really does fully split the power between the front and rear drive systems in 4wd-low, or if it's more like 17.5/17/5/33.5/33.5 percent.

    I would rather have the new system in my 2000 Limited, "just in case," but I haven't taken my pretty truck into anybody's pet road from Hell for the purpose of spraying mud on the top of the truck ;)

    MPG can be expected to drop any time you are pushing power through additional gadgets and whizmos due to the laws of thermodynamics. in addition, if you are on Trouble Trail and geared down for action, as a 4wd driving school will inspire you to do, you are going to be wasting more spinning outboard wheels in slow going on sad footing.

    you may well expect to get your best mileage right at the point overdrive kicks in, in as close to 2wd as you get, on a clean, dry, tight road going with the wind, carrying no or a light load, livin' right and drivin' light. any other conditions will reduce mileage.
  • heintz1heintz1 Member Posts: 52
    In Auto mode, the truck is basically running in 2WD, with all of the power going to the rear. If, while in Auto mode, the computer senses slippage of the rear drive wheel, it will temporarily transfer power to the front. (This should not be confused with "All Wheel Drive", which is a different system.) On the other hand, in 4W-High and 4W-Low modes, the truck is then locked in 4WD mode, but the wheels will turn at slightly different rates, especially when turning, etc., so these modes should ONLY be used when all 4 wheels are free to "slip" a bit, such as on ice, snow, mud, sand, etc. If you attempt to use 4WD on dry pavement, the wheels will tend to bind-up, and this is a no-no that will cause tire scrubbing and tranny damage. 4W-Low should ONLY be used when you need maximum torque at very low speeds (not to exceed about 20-25 mph), and unlike 4W-High mode (which you can select by "shift-on-the-fly") to select 4W-Low mode you must first bring the truck to a stop, then shift to Neutral... then push the 4W-Low button... then wait several seconds until the truck's computer allows this change and verifies this mode as indicated by illumination of the 4W-Low visual display in the cockpit display. To leave 4W-Low mode, you basically reverse this procedure. In practice, you will rarely ever require 4W-Low mode, but when you have an opportunity such as heavy snow, it's not a bad idea to familiarize yourself with it by placing the vehicle into this mode, then crawling her around, not to exceed 20-25 mph. This also helps to exercise and "break-in" these low gears a bit.

    Use the 4W-High, "shift-on-the-fly" mode when encountering things like HEAVY rain, standing water, or icey/snowy roads, even at freeway speeds. However, the front and rear drive wheels must be able to easily slip so as to prevent tire scrubbing, etc., and this requires that the driver pay close attention to the road conditions, and place the truck back into Auto mode when, for example, the torrential rain conditions or icey conditions subside, and the pavement is again offering good traction. If you re-encounter those slick conditions, you can simply again press the 4W-High button, etc., etc. With vehicles that have true AWD mode, this isn't necessary, but those trannies are more expensive and complex.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    well, not really. heintz1, how come I got a different feeling for the system on the newer models? I really got the idea that AWD was the base mode, either from the NBE sales tour or from the literature in the service waiting area....
  • jay579jay579 Member Posts: 2
    I was looking at a 2002 Explorer but I never seem to know if a salesman is accurate. I have gotten different answers to this question. I thinks this helps me out quite a bit. I guess I wanted to find out how auto worked to see if that was better or worse then finding a vehicle that could be put into 2WD.

    Thank you both!
  • ywilsonywilson Member Posts: 135
    Hello, I/wife owns a 2001 Explorer Sport. I would like to know if there are any Explorer clubs we can join. I need to know how to pull the codes from the truck when problems arise. I will be going through the BB as time allows but it looks like I can get some good info here. I would like to know also about anything that we should look out for now that we have 65,500 miles. Thanks in advance.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try a google.com search for clubs in your area, or check with the local Jeep dealer for off-road clubs. Most welcome any vehicle.

    Steve, Host
  • ywilsonywilson Member Posts: 135
    I will be looking at this since the Exp is now off of lease and we decided to keep it. Runs good and no major problems. I'll be talking to you ...
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    best not to flip a coin, go into the showroom and collar some help, and ask them. two of us obviously got different ideas from someplace, so until somebody can post line and verse from a service manual, probably best to seek another opinion.

    next time I'm in for oil and filter changes, I'm going to rattle the cage myself, just out of curiosity.

    I thought I was wrong once, but it was just an error ;)... hate to spread confusion about, however, so check it and report back.
  • heintz1heintz1 Member Posts: 52
    My truck is a 2002. I just visited Ford's web site, and AWD is apparently now available as an OPTION, although I didn't price it. My guess is this is the same AWD that's been available in the MTNR and Lincoln.
  • heintz1heintz1 Member Posts: 52
    "AWD" = "All Wheel Drive", but this is not the same as the "Auto" setting on 4WD Explorers that don't have the optional "All Wheel Drive" feature. To learn more, visit http://auto.howstuffworks.com/four-wheel-drive.htm
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    thanks, heintz, now I understand.
  • crpoffiecrpoffie Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2003 mountaineer luxury SUV with a moon roof. My 5 yr old daughter rides in the middle seat and loves to roll down "her window". When she does this there is a loud thumping noise and this sound makes my ears pop. I took it to the dealer as I thought that my there was a separated belt on the tire. My dealer said that this is "turbulence" and can not be corrected and suggested that we roll down a second window. We had already done this and it does not alleviate the noise. There is only 2,000 miles on the car and we have lost any enjoyment since basically we are being told not to roll down the windows, and if we do "be prepared". Any comments or suggestions. We have three young children who love to have their windows down.
  • navigator3740navigator3740 Member Posts: 279
    We've had our 02 Mountaineer 2 years this month. The dealer is unfortunately correct, there is no other cure for this. If you crack a second window, it does tend to go away. The sunroof has the same effect.

    I believe it is caused by the lack of a positive vent in the cabin, that the old model used to have. This makes the cabin very airtight. We have not found this to be a major issue with the car though, and my wife is very happy with it anyway. She just cracks a second window and drives. Hope you can get past it too.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    short version, it's real, open two windows or none. almost everything on the road these days has the issue.
  • heintz1heintz1 Member Posts: 52
    These are simply standing pressures waves of air, in which the incoming high-pressure air has no easy exit, and many other SUVs have the same problem (e.g., Toyota Sequoia). The easiest way to solve them would be to have a *rear tailgate window* that electronically opens to relieve the in-cabin air pressure waves when one or more side windows are open (Sequoia has this), but at higher speeds, not many drivers would opt for this anyway. In this day and age of fuel efficiency demands, aerodynamic demands, etc., most manufacturers are not thinking much about vehicles being quiet at higher speeds while the windows are either partially or completely down.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    assuming you could any more, is that there is a vacuum behind the vehicle that pulls all the road spray off your tires onto the back window. open that back window, it will also pull exhaust in. that's probably why the do-gooders won't let us roll down the rear window a crack any more.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    "There is only 2,000 miles on the car and we have lost any enjoyment since basically we are being told not to roll down the windows..."

    If the above is sincere, then I suggest that you get rid of the Mountaineer as soon as possible. You could probably trade it in and get another vehicle that will allow you to be comfortable with the sun roof open. Perhaps a convertible sedan would suit you better.
  • heintz1heintz1 Member Posts: 52
    Is this the first SUV you've owned? I'm driving a 2002 XLT (no moonroof--don't like 'em) and I find that when driving around town at LOWER speeds, having the front windows down (however far) will create very little in the way of "thumping" pressure waves, especially if the rear windows are partially open to help vent the air coming in from the front windows. On the other hand, the faster the vehicle is moving, the more the "thumping" from the standing pressure waves. But that said, you ought to consider the following issues:
    1) Auto/truck manufacturers long ago did away with those triangular, glass, front side window "side vents" that used to provide a measure of deflection of the side stream of air from entering the cabin when the side windows were lowered, especially at higher speeds. These triangular, glass, side vents were likely done away with (long ago) for a variety of reasons, including the expense of manufacturing those more complex front side windows; the expense of replacement; lower compatibility with power windows; and a trend towards designing more AERODYNAMIC (and hence, more fuel efficient) vehicles in the wake of OPEC in the 1970s, rising fuel prices, etc.; 2) Today's vehicles are also being designed to be as free from excessive road noise, and as QUIET as possible; one way manufacturers can approach this goal is to make their vehicles evermore AIRTIGHT!!!!; 3) As a consequence of their size, shape, weight, and height, most SUVs are not exactly aerodynamic to begin with, and of course, most are rather fuel inefficient as well. Therefore, in my opinion (and probably, the opinions of the manufacturers themselves) it makes little if any SENSE to insist on driving an SUV (or any modern vehicle for that matter) at sustained speeds above ~45-50 mph with the windows either partially or fully lowered, because of the resulting marked increase in wind drag, and the increased fuel consumption needed to overcome said wind drag-- not to mention the amount of wind velocity and wind NOISE that would result in the cabin at these higher speeds with the windows lowered! 4) In my opinion, "moonrooves" are a rather silly idea that the auto makers have really been cashing in on. Why? Because: A) They are prone to being absentmindedly left partially or fully open when the vehicle is parked outdoors, etc.; B) They are prone to LEAKING over time; C) When the glass of a moonroof is uncovered (but the roof glass remains closed tight) they admit the sun's rays, and this often amounts to higher temps in the cabin, as well as excessive light that may well lead to premature driver/front passenger fatigue; D) when either partially or fully OPENED (especially at higher speeds) moonrooves create a great deal of WIND NOISE, as well as excessive WIND DRAG! E) Even when fully closed, the mere presence of a moonroof may often render a vehicle's roof less aerodynamic and less QUIET as a consequence of air turbulence and air eddies around the outer aspects of even a fully closed and sealed moonroof, and this is yet another reason why I avoid them; F) Electronically controlled moonrooves have complex mechanisms that are prone to eventual failure (often at very inconvenient times), and out-of-warranty repair is often very expensive (service centers love moonrooves, because they help make boat payments...), not to mention the fact that if they won't fully close and seal when/if such a failure occurs (such as while on vacation, far from home, and the forecast is for the next three days of heavy rain...) Well, you get the idea.

    In summary, you've bought a very nice SUV, but perhaps you bought it for the wrong reasons, or perhaps you didn't fully appreciate what you were buying. At any rate, you bought an SUV, but it's NOT your father's stationwagon; it's NOT a convertible; it's NOT a minivan; it's NOT a sleek sedan; and it's NOT designed or intended to be driven at sustained speeds above ~ 45-50 mph with its windows down. And by the way, whatever you do, don't try leaving the tailgate glass up to equalize air pressure, as this would be begging to have that glass SHATTER! But, if you and your family really don't like your new SUV, then why suffer? Sell it, and have your kids and your wife pre-approve your next vehicle, using their "windows down" test.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    If I understand correctly, the plaintiff IS the wife. (:o]
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    on a nice, warm, sunny, excellent day, I can crack a window and/or the moonroof, turn off the climate control, and enjoy. I haven't hit a combination yet that whumps me in my exploder, but then, I don't just kick down a back window.

    experiment, have fun, push all the buttons a little bit and see what happens. if shifts of test drivers in ford's proving grounds didn't come into the ready room at the end of the day with rifles and knives and kill everybody they saw because they were whumped silly, it doesn't have to happen.

    I still don't like windows that don't go down all the way because the bloody damn door has to fit around the top of the bloody damn wheel well, but I can't get a 30-foot-long hogmobile into my dinky apartment garage anyway, so I've had to rechannel my energies over that issue. hogmobiles get even worse mileage than SUVs, for pete's sake.

    maybe it's just having had a few heart attacks as I have aged, but it ain't worth running my blood pressure up into four digits over.

    I will say this... programs like GM's recent 24-hour test drive will help insure prospective buyers don't get a machine that has one glaring, ugly, bad-fit flaw that bites their lifestyles in the [non-permissible content removed] and laughs at the mess. I'd like to see that idea take root in other car companies as well. it makes very good sense.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    The problem with the "silly" GM program is that they achieve an obligatory position on the buyer at the subconscious level. A very large number of people are going to buy, due to that. If you take it home over night, you have basically already bought the vehicle.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    A lot of marriages start this way, too. >:o]
  • navigator3740navigator3740 Member Posts: 279
    swschrad: My 97 & 98 didn't thump, and they had sunroofs, and your 2000 is the same. They didn't have the problem. My 2002 does, as does my new Navigator. It's a new problem..... There has to be a way to engineer it out. But honestly, I just crack the rear power vent windows, and the problem goes away, it's not the end of my happy day.....
  • geoffdgtigeoffdgti Member Posts: 83
    I recently purchased a 2003 mountaineer luxury SUV with a moon roof. My 5 yr old daughter rides in the middle seat and loves to roll down "her window".

    Crack one of the rear windows and the problem goes away.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    used to be, way back when men were men and the 60s were in full swing, if the dealer knew you, you could take just about anything home overnight and see how it fit. yes, you had to sign a rental contract, but there wasn't the "buy it, if you don't like it, return it in 3 days or 100 miles and we take it back" issue. I am advised there are even some dealers who won't kill a contract and take a car back even if you die and fall out of the door in the "new owners suite" transfer room.

    even if it's just a sales leader, it's a good idea if somebody is making a radical change of vehicle, say from pickup to BMW, or from an old econobox to a Navigator.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Just try and return it the second day! See where that gets yuh! Ha! »:o[
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    What a great segway to my (off the main topic) story! Way back in the 90's, swschrad, I bought a used Continental, my first venture into the Lincoln/Mercury world from a local dealer. 3 days later, it wouldn't start in my garage. The next morning, I took it back and asked for my old car back, expecting to get laughed out of the showroom. To my amazement, the owner of the dealership said ok! I drove out of there with my old car, all detailed and serviced, and a check for my money back!!! I was so grateful, that 3 months later, I went back and bought a NEW Continental, and have bought cars from him ever since, for business and personal use. He's dead now, and so this throwback dealership to the 60's may die too. But for now, they still treat me like their best customer. It's a great feeling. If other dealers and car companies only realized, that giving me my money back with no hassle one time, sold me 9 new cars since then, and brought them countless sales from my referrals. It was the best check he ever wrote.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    the best gimmick in the world... because it isn't one ;)

    I sure remember about every time I got plucked as a sucker... but I try and make a point of remembering who takes care of me as a customer, too.

    I have heard many stories about the Lincoln dealer taking the extra step. it's like an old college friend said once, in the 70s: olds had the best price/luxury point in GM. you got your best service if the dealer was an olds/caddy dealer, and the worst if he was olds/chevy.

    another way to say it: the seller of luxury goods has to insure customer satisfaction, because he has to live on selling fewer items for higher cost. I got a great repair on an old base Rolex and have had some scuzzy ones on lesser mechanical watches because of the Expectation Of The Customer factor as believed by everybody at the store.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I buy watches that keep "perfect" time and cost me so little that I rarely bother to buy a new battery-- I replace the watch. These surely are not objects of desire for status seekers! They just keep the time, and mine also double as calculators, as well.
    Now, my Mountaineer? That's another story. (:o]
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    a stopped clock is accurate twice a day, all others continually get worse and worse.

    I don't like replacing the dinky little batteries because I have to remove the microscopic little clip screws to do it, and being cursed with bifocals, it's a fun time for all.... not. plus, manuals have that certain charm and savoir-faire that says as you go by, "throwback. fogey. don't talk to HIM about The Matrix!"

    and at times, that's very nice :0
  • brast69brast69 Member Posts: 17
    I purchased a 2003...Same noice, All I do is crack the moonroof, crack the front windows and open the front vents, seems like alot to do for a noise but it seems to work
  • brast69brast69 Member Posts: 17
    Has anyone taken the 03 Mountaineer on the beach yet, how is it on the beach as opposed to a true 4 by 4. A friend of mine told me ALL WHEEL DRIVE is not good on the beach and I will get stuck.Is this true?
  • heintz1heintz1 Member Posts: 52
    I haven't had my 2002, V8, 4WD XLT on any beach yet, but at any rate, my hunch is that if one ever needs serious low-end "crawler" or "gut-pulling" 4WD torque, the AWD version might not be the best choice. At any rate, if you get into deep, dry sand, you'll likely need to let lots of air out of the tires in order to proceed, and once you're out, you'll need an air compressor (or similar) to re-inflate the tires in order to drive on hard roads again.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Beaches and sandy creek bottoms eat 4WD vehicles for lunch. Been there and done that from Arizona to Alaska-- Never in a Mountaineer or Explorer, though. Be careful to never back up in your own tracks, and don't get impatient if you start churning and moving slowly. It would be smart to buy a winch! >:o]
  • 1badsidekick1badsidekick Member Posts: 135
    Hi all, you may remember me from posting in the past. I'm finally able to afford a new vehicle, and I've picked out an orange '99 Explorer XLS. I'm not sure which 4.0 engine it is, the SOHC or the other...but it has 31,700 miles, a/t, power windows, locks, mirrors, cd player, cruise, tilt, fog lights, step bars, tow package, and tinted windows. They have it priced $13,900, and told me they would trade me out of my '98 Sidekick Sport for $8500. A new kick was added tonight, when my father offered to add my mom's current car, a '93 Bonneville SSEi to trade in as well. I'm looking to probably end up with a difference of $4,000-$5,000. I checked the car over, and the only thing I found wrong was the cruise control unit on the right side of the wheel (resume, set/accel, coast) was loose from the wheel, but would be fixed. Do you think this is a good deal? Any tips, anything I should look for in particular? I did notice vibration when I accelerated coming through the floor and pedal. Is that common? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I don't recall orange being a stock color, and I wonder if this vehicle has been repainted. If it has, then why? Was it wrecked and repaired? The 4 liter 6 cylinder Ford engines I have owned have run very smoothly. Notable vibration upon acceleration would make me very uneasy about an Explorer. Perhaps this vehicle has been run quite hard. I would not want to face the repair of the cruise control. You might want to be VERY careful-- Why not look some more?
  • 1badsidekick1badsidekick Member Posts: 135
    It's actually a reddish orange sort of color, and I've seen several in this color. I'm going to inquite about the vibration, but the car only has 31,700 miles on it, but they could have been hard miles. The dealer will fix the cruise control with no problem, so they said. Loose or not, it does work with no problems. I found a better price on it, they had the same vehicle listed on autotrader.com for "a special internet price", $12,650. We'll see how that goes. I'll keep you posted!
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    That's good that you "caught" them offering a better price! Bargain hard, and make them fix the cruise control before you buy, not after-- hint hint.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    and I would have that vibration identified too, because I've had a 94, 97, 98 & 02, and one of my employees had a 99, and we never detected such a phenomenon. At least, not pronounced. Low mileage can be a good thing, but in rare cases, can also mean the damn thing was always in the shop or couldn't be trusted out of town. Like fleetwood said, I can't identify this color either in my memory. I would do a CARFAX to check for a wreck & damage, and take it to a Ford mechanic you can trust for an opinion on the vibration. That's my biggest concern. These are really solid cars, this one worries me from what you've said.
  • heintz1heintz1 Member Posts: 52
    I've seen many older Explorers in a metallic rust-orange sort of color, and that's probably what's being referred to here.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Evidently not a popular color in the Southwest. I can't place one in my mind....only the dark red. But whatever color it is, I don't think it should vibrate under hard acceleration.
  • brast69brast69 Member Posts: 17
    I had a 98 Mountaineer prior to my 2003, I had the same vibration under the drivers floorboard, I felt it on the gas pedle when I accelerated. Turns out it was a lot of work that needed to be done in the front transfer case,the front hub replaced, bearings, seals, gaskets etc. I only had maybe 40,000 miles when I needed that done. Its quite expensive...Maybe you should have the dealer absorb this costly repair.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    LOOK ELSEWHERE!!!
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    I have/had 3 Explorers. 1 with the engine that will come in the 1999 you are looking at (4.0L OHV V6). That old OHV V6 just ran like a champ, but was harsh feeling. It had the vibes that you mention, but it never had a problem because of it, and wasn't much more than a nussance. I would take the advice of some others here and have it checked over, by a trusted tech. Sounds like a good price. Goodluck.
  • 1badsidekick1badsidekick Member Posts: 135
    I went back today and looked it over again, drove it again, actually even let someone else drive and I just rode to pay attention to sounds etc. This car does have the OHV V6, rather than the SOHC V6 found in the XLT. The vibration is exactly as brast69 mentioned, I feel it in the driver's floor board and on the pedal. However, when riding in the passenger seat, I could still tell it. I'm taking the car all day tomorrow, would have brought it home tonight, but the dealer said 'due to our insurance policy, we cannot allow a vehicle off the lot when we are closed.' I think that's malarky myself, but, oh well. I am also taking it to my mechanic for them to look it over, drive it and see what they think about the vibration. I'd like to find another XLS with the OHV engine and see if it does the same. So far I've driven 2 XLTs with the SOHC engine, and it was smooth as silk, and it felt peppier. I went in heavily armed with trade in and retail values for the 2 cars I wanted to trade in, plus the autotrader page with the $12,650 price on it. This is when things began to get complicated. I had been dealing with 1 salesman...but he needed approval of his manager. Well, I went in and showed him the autotrader page, and he said "no problem, you can have it for that." Then when I popped in the idea of trading in an additional car, I was told "the manager is at a sale today, he will be back later this afternoon. Come back by then and bring your other trade for him to look at, and we'll see what we can do." I did just that, and here is what the manager told me: "Because this car (the second one) is so old (10 years) and has so many miles (109k), all I can give you is wholesale, because I'll just take it to the auction and sell it. It's worth about $2,000 wholesale." Kelley blue book told me trade in was $3,035, but according to this man, and another dealer I visited today "Kelley Blue Book is useless, don't go by what they say. All dealers and banks use the yellow NADA book, and the black book." That was comforting...NOT. Then, I noticed he was still going from the $13,900 ASKING price. I said "what happened to me getting the $12,650 advertised price?" B/S followed: "I put that price on there so if someone 600 miles away wants this car, they can come get it for that price, straight out, no trades. That is wholesale on that vehicle. If I sell it to you for wholesale, I'll have to give you wholesale on your trade" which was $4,000 instead of $5400. By the time I left that place, I didn't know which was my front from my back. I was offered a 60 month payment plan @ 6.99%. I went to another dealer and looked at, and drove a '00 XLT, which I ironically like LESS, but it is quite nicer than the XLS. It only has 24k miles, has a power moonroof, 6 disc changer, plus in dash cd and cassette, and all the other XLT goodies. Price for it is $18,500, and he would allow $100 more on the trade than the other dealer, $7500 rather than $7400 for both cars. But, rather than having a $6500 loan, I'll have a $11,000 loan for 60 months at 5.9%. The rear wiper on the XLT doesn't work, which was the same case with the other XLT I drove. I know it's a common problem with explorers, escapes, expeditions and windstars...but has there been a recall? Any other advice for me? I really appreciate what all you guys have said so far, it's been helpful!
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I'd expect that XLT wiper to be repaired before the trade went down, and I can tell you my old 93 XLT was a good vehicle. I now drive a 2002 Mountaineer. Good luck. I'd forget the orange vibrator!
  • brast69brast69 Member Posts: 17
    Have the dealer repair the wiper and whatever else you can find wrong...Because as soon as you purchase the vehicle, its on you!! Definately forget the orange vibrator, if you really want vibrations buy a HARLEY...........
  • heintz1heintz1 Member Posts: 52
    I'm the original owner of a 2002 V8, 4WD XLT w/ towing package (the vehicle is 18 months old, with 41,000 miles and counting), and for several months now I've noticed the following: When driving on the highway at ~65-85+ mph, when I tap off the cruise ctrl. or take my foot of the accelerator, and let the truck coast, I feel a somewhat coarse vibration from somewhere under the truck (and I even hear an accompanying, soft "growling" sound) as the vehicle's speed rapidly bleeds off. A few months ago, a Ford service advisor drove the truck on the highway while I sat in the passenger seat, and he seemed to feel there was nothing to worry about. Within the next several weeks, I plan to take it in to have a Ford technician evaluate this issue, but I'd first like to know if anyone here might have any ideas about this. FWIW, I've purchased Ford's 100,000 mile extended warranty, so I'm not concerned about repair costs at this point. At any rate, I don't know jack about vehicles, but I'm wondering if this could be some type of a bearing problem? Any thoughts?
  • brast69brast69 Member Posts: 17
    yeah,
    Look at message 1409...Maybe that will help you out. It starts out as a vibration, eventually you will start to hear a "humming" sound then its time to take it in for the front end repairs.
  • heintz1heintz1 Member Posts: 52
    #1409 is interesting, but I don't have ANY vibration problems when accelerating.
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