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Comments
the 2002 and on AWD is similar indeed... except that ford added the lockup option. if you flip the switch from "auto" to "4wd", you lock up the differentials and all wheels pull all the time, with a similar front/rear power ratio. if you flip it to "4wd low", you drop the transfer case into "mud mode", and probably also lock the electronic transmission in low gear, for as close as they come to 25/25/25/25 percent pull. I do not know if ford really does fully split the power between the front and rear drive systems in 4wd-low, or if it's more like 17.5/17/5/33.5/33.5 percent.
I would rather have the new system in my 2000 Limited, "just in case," but I haven't taken my pretty truck into anybody's pet road from Hell for the purpose of spraying mud on the top of the truck
MPG can be expected to drop any time you are pushing power through additional gadgets and whizmos due to the laws of thermodynamics. in addition, if you are on Trouble Trail and geared down for action, as a 4wd driving school will inspire you to do, you are going to be wasting more spinning outboard wheels in slow going on sad footing.
you may well expect to get your best mileage right at the point overdrive kicks in, in as close to 2wd as you get, on a clean, dry, tight road going with the wind, carrying no or a light load, livin' right and drivin' light. any other conditions will reduce mileage.
Use the 4W-High, "shift-on-the-fly" mode when encountering things like HEAVY rain, standing water, or icey/snowy roads, even at freeway speeds. However, the front and rear drive wheels must be able to easily slip so as to prevent tire scrubbing, etc., and this requires that the driver pay close attention to the road conditions, and place the truck back into Auto mode when, for example, the torrential rain conditions or icey conditions subside, and the pavement is again offering good traction. If you re-encounter those slick conditions, you can simply again press the 4W-High button, etc., etc. With vehicles that have true AWD mode, this isn't necessary, but those trannies are more expensive and complex.
Thank you both!
Steve, Host
next time I'm in for oil and filter changes, I'm going to rattle the cage myself, just out of curiosity.
I thought I was wrong once, but it was just an error ... hate to spread confusion about, however, so check it and report back.
I believe it is caused by the lack of a positive vent in the cabin, that the old model used to have. This makes the cabin very airtight. We have not found this to be a major issue with the car though, and my wife is very happy with it anyway. She just cracks a second window and drives. Hope you can get past it too.
If the above is sincere, then I suggest that you get rid of the Mountaineer as soon as possible. You could probably trade it in and get another vehicle that will allow you to be comfortable with the sun roof open. Perhaps a convertible sedan would suit you better.
1) Auto/truck manufacturers long ago did away with those triangular, glass, front side window "side vents" that used to provide a measure of deflection of the side stream of air from entering the cabin when the side windows were lowered, especially at higher speeds. These triangular, glass, side vents were likely done away with (long ago) for a variety of reasons, including the expense of manufacturing those more complex front side windows; the expense of replacement; lower compatibility with power windows; and a trend towards designing more AERODYNAMIC (and hence, more fuel efficient) vehicles in the wake of OPEC in the 1970s, rising fuel prices, etc.; 2) Today's vehicles are also being designed to be as free from excessive road noise, and as QUIET as possible; one way manufacturers can approach this goal is to make their vehicles evermore AIRTIGHT!!!!; 3) As a consequence of their size, shape, weight, and height, most SUVs are not exactly aerodynamic to begin with, and of course, most are rather fuel inefficient as well. Therefore, in my opinion (and probably, the opinions of the manufacturers themselves) it makes little if any SENSE to insist on driving an SUV (or any modern vehicle for that matter) at sustained speeds above ~45-50 mph with the windows either partially or fully lowered, because of the resulting marked increase in wind drag, and the increased fuel consumption needed to overcome said wind drag-- not to mention the amount of wind velocity and wind NOISE that would result in the cabin at these higher speeds with the windows lowered! 4) In my opinion, "moonrooves" are a rather silly idea that the auto makers have really been cashing in on. Why? Because: A) They are prone to being absentmindedly left partially or fully open when the vehicle is parked outdoors, etc.; They are prone to LEAKING over time; C) When the glass of a moonroof is uncovered (but the roof glass remains closed tight) they admit the sun's rays, and this often amounts to higher temps in the cabin, as well as excessive light that may well lead to premature driver/front passenger fatigue; D) when either partially or fully OPENED (especially at higher speeds) moonrooves create a great deal of WIND NOISE, as well as excessive WIND DRAG! E) Even when fully closed, the mere presence of a moonroof may often render a vehicle's roof less aerodynamic and less QUIET as a consequence of air turbulence and air eddies around the outer aspects of even a fully closed and sealed moonroof, and this is yet another reason why I avoid them; F) Electronically controlled moonrooves have complex mechanisms that are prone to eventual failure (often at very inconvenient times), and out-of-warranty repair is often very expensive (service centers love moonrooves, because they help make boat payments...), not to mention the fact that if they won't fully close and seal when/if such a failure occurs (such as while on vacation, far from home, and the forecast is for the next three days of heavy rain...) Well, you get the idea.
In summary, you've bought a very nice SUV, but perhaps you bought it for the wrong reasons, or perhaps you didn't fully appreciate what you were buying. At any rate, you bought an SUV, but it's NOT your father's stationwagon; it's NOT a convertible; it's NOT a minivan; it's NOT a sleek sedan; and it's NOT designed or intended to be driven at sustained speeds above ~ 45-50 mph with its windows down. And by the way, whatever you do, don't try leaving the tailgate glass up to equalize air pressure, as this would be begging to have that glass SHATTER! But, if you and your family really don't like your new SUV, then why suffer? Sell it, and have your kids and your wife pre-approve your next vehicle, using their "windows down" test.
experiment, have fun, push all the buttons a little bit and see what happens. if shifts of test drivers in ford's proving grounds didn't come into the ready room at the end of the day with rifles and knives and kill everybody they saw because they were whumped silly, it doesn't have to happen.
I still don't like windows that don't go down all the way because the bloody damn door has to fit around the top of the bloody damn wheel well, but I can't get a 30-foot-long hogmobile into my dinky apartment garage anyway, so I've had to rechannel my energies over that issue. hogmobiles get even worse mileage than SUVs, for pete's sake.
maybe it's just having had a few heart attacks as I have aged, but it ain't worth running my blood pressure up into four digits over.
I will say this... programs like GM's recent 24-hour test drive will help insure prospective buyers don't get a machine that has one glaring, ugly, bad-fit flaw that bites their lifestyles in the [non-permissible content removed] and laughs at the mess. I'd like to see that idea take root in other car companies as well. it makes very good sense.
Crack one of the rear windows and the problem goes away.
even if it's just a sales leader, it's a good idea if somebody is making a radical change of vehicle, say from pickup to BMW, or from an old econobox to a Navigator.
I sure remember about every time I got plucked as a sucker... but I try and make a point of remembering who takes care of me as a customer, too.
I have heard many stories about the Lincoln dealer taking the extra step. it's like an old college friend said once, in the 70s: olds had the best price/luxury point in GM. you got your best service if the dealer was an olds/caddy dealer, and the worst if he was olds/chevy.
another way to say it: the seller of luxury goods has to insure customer satisfaction, because he has to live on selling fewer items for higher cost. I got a great repair on an old base Rolex and have had some scuzzy ones on lesser mechanical watches because of the Expectation Of The Customer factor as believed by everybody at the store.
Now, my Mountaineer? That's another story. (:o]
I don't like replacing the dinky little batteries because I have to remove the microscopic little clip screws to do it, and being cursed with bifocals, it's a fun time for all.... not. plus, manuals have that certain charm and savoir-faire that says as you go by, "throwback. fogey. don't talk to HIM about The Matrix!"
and at times, that's very nice :0
Look at message 1409...Maybe that will help you out. It starts out as a vibration, eventually you will start to hear a "humming" sound then its time to take it in for the front end repairs.