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Ford didn't honor the Warranty .(we bought it 1/2000)
now we have told we need right upper ball joint replacement.(37K miles)
another $300 job.
We never replaced the "ball joint" on any other cars we own/owned. (last 20 years, we had total of 8 cars)
Is just our Mountaineer or all Mountaineers having this problem?
He said it's same thing as ball joint.
Is it so?
I don't want him to pull my "short" legs.
(people thinks I'm a naive Asain women, haha)
My vehicle DID NOT NEED any of the above, told them exactly how every part worked. How they were engineered, and using what methods and who the CORRECT (not 2nd hand suppliers)were.... What they were looking at, told them how they were all going to rot in hell as I sit upon it's throne.
Needless to say I got coupons for free service that lasted me quite awhile (Although I gave them away to friends).
I would say, ask for the parts back so you know they are really changing the parts. And also view the vehicle as it's propped up on the hydraulic lift, and that should help quite a bit.
I will get the second opinion.
Squeak noise worry us.
The repair shop will charges us..
Right front upper control arm
part $140 labor $90, Alignment $49.95
after tax $303.05
We paid $182 for lower ball joint replacement at the dealer.
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
PR Director
Edmunds.com
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
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We had my new one up on a lift yesterday doing the winterization (we live in Alaska), big difference when compared to the 97.
from the pictures of when it was in the body shop, it looked like it had aftermarket wheels/tires. if these were not factory offset, and were not rotated every 6k(could be wrong on the book on that one), then this might have contributed to the front end problems.
ct is not ak, but the high is going to be <10 tomorrow.
I think what contributed to the front end problems was all the road construction we had last summer. That poor truck took a major beating, nothing I could do about it, I had to drive through that construction for 15 miles to get anywhere. Lots of ruts, potholes, gravel, rough roads, it was truely a nightmare. I'm sure that had tons to do with the reason they gave up. However, that said, our 1994 Chevy K3500 drove on the same roads all last summer/fall and it still had its ORIGINAL front end, ball joints, tie rod ends, everything at 150k miles and it stayed tight and true. Didn't faze it in the least and yes, it was an IFS front end too. So, I think the Explorer was a little wimpy to give up so quickly, but hey, its Alaska, so I'll forgive it.
I still miss it, but the 2004 is so much smoother and nicer to drive. Oh and the fuel economy is better, my 97 V8/AWD had dropped to a measley 12 mpg and was seriously lacking in the power department. The 2004 is hanging at 15 mpg with only 560 miles on it, that's idling and using 4WD.
miles on it for 6,000. I like the mileage on it but still a little wary of the age. I'm reading here for as much info as possible. The owner of the truck died and his widow is finally selling it. The truck supposedly was well maintained and is in very clean condition. The age thing is the only thing bugging me. Some input from some you experienced Explorer owners would help.
Thanks
I'm considering purchasing the above vehicle. It's mint in and out and priced fairly at 22K. I'm concerned about it's repair history and resale value in 2 yrs. when it's got 90K+ miles on it. However, I do like the features, ride, styling, room, etc. of it.
My 01 Nissan P'finder has 88K carefree miles on it and I'm being offered a trade value of 12K, which I consider fair also. (Reluctant to part with it because it's been so troublefree.)
Any thoughts would be appreciated!!!!!
Is 1.1% over invoice realistic??
Thanks in advance.......
My 97 Explorer I highly doubt would have been so compliant, it would fight me at -20.
You can't imagine the number of men that have made this error, at least you knew there was a dipstick to begin with. I actually have some male friends that had no idea that brakes have "fluid", I had to draw them diagrams because they kept asking "brakes can't possibly have fluid, if they did, they wouldn't be able to brake"... Heh...
BMW's transmissions are also sealed for life, and reality is when it the transmission does start to die, it's either time to replace the vehicle, or much cheaper to replace the whole unit than just re-build them.
The guys at the gas station used to get a kick out of me last winter when I had my 90 Suburban, lifted 4", 31x10.5R15 tires, I had to climb up on the tire to check the oil (thing lost a quart every 250 miles) and then would have to climb into the engine bay to add oil. Very embarrassing and on occation I played the helpless female to get some guy to do it for me, lol.
That truck (her name was Tabitha or TaBurbitha) taught me a lot about vehicles and reminded me that if I didn't check the fluids I was gonna be walking in no time. I miss that old girl.
Anyway, I guess on my Explorer I'll be a good truck owner and leave it alone. I really do like the little thing, its much better than the 97 Explorer I had......that thing was known as *Squeaky*.
It seems to be a fine transmission too. We've noticed no deterioration at all in 30,000 miles so far on ours, and it's really smooth and quiet. This Mountaineer, despite being one of the first 2002 models ever made, early in 2001, has been surprisingly competent and trouble free.
Related Chemicals & Lubricants
The following Motorcraft® chemicals and lubricants are recommended for service and repairs associated with transmission replacement:
Ford Type “F” ATF and Power Steering Fluid
Power Steering Fluid
Premium Power Steering Fluid
MERCON® Multi-Purpose ATF Transmission Fluid
Synthetic MERCON® Multi-Purpose Automatic Transmission Fluid
MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid
The 5R55W in the '02 up Explorer needs Mercon V fluid. Since the entry above it notes that it is synthetic and the Mercon V is not noted as such, I am betting that it isn't a synthetic. The trans has no dipstick, and checking the fluid is not "required". I'll have mine professionally flushed at 36K intervals.
Anyone out there know for sure?
o
f
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My dealer has loaners too. It depends on where you go. Some of them "get" the value of offering loaners, some don't unfortunately.
For what it's worth, my dealer has a poster in their waiting area that says that the trans fluid should be changed at 45K intervals. That may be the dealer's recommendation, though.
for a full escape from issues, you would also want to roll a manufacturer's extended warranty into any vehicle's lease plan. then all you have to worry about are the fabled and frequent stories about overmileage, bumps and scratches, and crud ground into the carpets and seatbacks by the neighbor kids by accident. your accord experience should remind everybody that EVERYBODY can get a run of cruddy parts or a solid team effort from a lazy engineer on occasion.
I've got almost 50K on my exploder, no issues at all. the battery went about when you expect it to, and I might have a fuel regulator or gas pump issue beginning to appear... or it might be a cheap relay before the fuel pump, haven't ID'd the problem yet.
I'm not sold on car leases for individuals at all, but I readily agree lots of folks like 'em.
I think you'll be fine in the mountie. just do the regular maintenance and look at anything that seems odd, like any good vehicle, and it should be a nice ride and a nice experience.
oh, that regular stereo. wimpy like all the rest. get the Mach, you'll like it. even more if you get the optional multi-disk with it. good tunes make a good drive better.
The V6 is reliable, and not a cause for concern. Although you could get the same gas mileage and better performance from the V8 over the V6.
I've had the 04 3 weeks today and have put over 1700 miles on it. Other than a cooling system hiccup at -55 its been flawless. I find the V6 to be very pleasant and it has tons of power. Its a smaller engine than my prev Explorer but is much more refined and has a lot more power.
So far I've averaged 16 mpg, but that's mixed driving and idling, the truck also has snow tires on it which hurt the gas mileage too.
Drive them both and buy what you like, both are good engines and the V6 is certainly not lacking in power or reliability.
BTW, these new Explorers are AMAZING in the deep snow, very, very impressive.
Screw the rags, one month they love the vehicle, next one they kill it... All biased trash to begin with. Just test out both versions yourself and see what you prefer best. The V6 transmission is programmed to work at the heart of the band majority of the time so it's rare you will require anything more. And a higher axle ratio might help a bit as well on initial acceleration if need be.